January 2005 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: Hatch Boards
by JazzYachts＠aol.com 24 Jan '05

24 Jan '05

I've got about five or six requests for Montgomery hatchboards; ten is the magic number and I'll fire up the CNC machine. (Somewhere in there I'd need to borrow someone's hatchboards for measurements!) No hurry, as it's not sailing weather in Maryland just now. In fact, that noise you hear is the brass monkeys getting up to leave. Cheers, John C. Harris

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Re: M_Boats: Bella
by TOMMYVAL＠aol.com 24 Jan '05

24 Jan '05

First class little boat. First look and all you see is quality. Great job Bob Gary

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Re: M_Boats: M17 Rudders
by Larry E Yake 23 Jan '05

23 Jan '05

Bob, Could you send me some copies of those photos? Do you sell a "conversion kit" to change over to the raisable rudder? Thanks, Larry On Sun, 23 Jan 2005 08:37:39 -0800 Bob <Bobeeg(a)earthlink.net> writes: > Fred > > I just sent you some photos of how the system works. > > Fair winds > Bob Eeg > > Frederick M Berthrong wrote: > > >Re the raisable rudder, > > > >Ever since I got my M17 hull number 300 I have read and see photos > of the > >raisable rudder. I'm not talking about the kick up rudder but the > outfit > >that allows the rudder to slide upward to clear the ground while on > the > >trailer. My M17 did not come with such a contraption. Is the > hardware > >available from somewhere? > > > >Thanks. > > > >Fred Berthrong > >Dulce, M17 #300 > > > > > >On Sat, 22 Jan 2005 13:02:00 -0800 Larry E Yake <leyake(a)juno.com> > writes: > > > > > >>This question is for Jerry or anyone who has experience with both > the > >>old > >>style M17 rudder with the "stepped forward" leading edge below the > > >>hull, > >>and the newer style "straight edge" raiseable rudder. > >> > >>I have the older style and am in the process of refinishing and > >>resealing > >>it. The seam between the main body of the rudder and the attached > > >>leading > >>edge portion (with 3 - 1/2" wood dowels) had opened and was > >>allowing > >>moisture into the wood. In order to reseal it, I have removed it > to > >>clean > >>the surfaces. I am wondering if this would be a good time to > convert > >>it > >>to the raiseable "straight edge" type. It has been an > inconvenience > >>a few > >>times not being able to raise the rudder, but it is my > understanding > >>that > >>the "stepped forward" rudder was the original Lyle Hess design to > > >>better > >>balance the helm. It certain is well balanced. My question is how > > >>much > >>balance would I lose going to the newer design? > >> > >>Thanks, > >>Larry Yake > >>M17, #200 > >>Tullamore > >> > >>_______________________________________________ > >>http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > _____________________________________ > >http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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Vancouver Island
by htmills＠bright.net 23 Jan '05

23 Jan '05

You PNWers might enjoy this photo/chart tour of Barkley Sound on V.I.'s lower west coast: http://bbs.trailersailor.com/forums/trailersailor/index.cgi/read/395061 Really gorgeous country! Tod

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Re: M_Boats: M17 Rudders
by Larry E Yake 23 Jan '05

23 Jan '05

Good comments, Dick. Thanks. I wasn't aware that Ida Sailor made a rudder that fit the M17. What model did you get and what modifications did you have to make to mount it? One thing that has made me reluctant to go with the kick up rudder is the "spongy / flexing" feel. How's the Ida Sailor? Does it feel nearly as solid as the original? Larry On Sun, 23 Jan 2005 06:03:35 -0800 (PST) Dick Straubel <dicknatta(a)yahoo.com> writes: > Sail my M17 in the Caloosahatchee between Fort Myers and Cape Coral, > Florida -- lots of submergered boulders left over after channels > were blasted. Older rudder was real trouble here. Running it > aground on sand was OK, but running into a boulder at full speed has > a way of doing real structural damage to the transom. > > Bought an aftermarket rudder from Ida Sailor. It kicks up, but the > leading edge does not extend forward under the transom. The thing > works great. > > I always figured that true rudder "balance" was a product of sail > trim, not rudder design. Steering with a rudder involves dragging > the rudder throught the water sideways, regardless of rudder design > and the nature of the feeddback transmitted to the tiller. When the > rudder feels "draggy," it is giving me valuable feedback that tells > me something is wrong with my sail trim. When I fix the sail trim, > I am dealing with the source of the problem, not the symptom. The > boat sails faster and sweeter. > > Jerry, if you are out there reading this, thank you again for my > wonderful M17 #259. I have had her for ten years now -- sailed her > in Door County Wisconsin for seven years and am now sailing her in > FL. You and Lyle did it right. > > Larry E Yake <leyake(a)juno.com> wrote: > This question is for Jerry or anyone who has experience with both > the old > style M17 rudder with the "stepped forward" leading edge below the > hull, > and the newer style "straight edge" raiseable rudder. > > I have the older style and am in the process of refinishing and > resealing > it. The seam between the main body of the rudder and the attached > leading > edge portion (with 3 - 1/2" wood dowels) had opened and was > allowing > moisture into the wood. In order to reseal it, I have removed it to > clean > the surfaces. I am wondering if this would be a good time to convert > it > to the raiseable "straight edge" type. It has been an inconvenience > a few > times not being able to raise the rudder, but it is my understanding > that > the "stepped forward" rudder was the original Lyle Hess design to > better > balance the helm. It certain is well balanced. My question is how > much > balance would I lose going to the newer design? > > Thanks, > Larry Yake > M17, #200 > Tullamore > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > --------------------------------- > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Search presents - Jib Jab's 'Second Term' > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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Re: M_Boats: Bella
by chbenneck＠juno.com 23 Jan '05

23 Jan '05

Hi Bob, To make your day, .............. It has been snowing like mad in Connecticut since yesterday 2:30 PM. This morning it is still snowing and blowing and they are promising us 18" to 24" before it ends. OAT is 6 degrees F. Wind gusting to 30 knots. Marine weather forecast south of Nantucket is advising 40 to 50 knots of wind, going to 60 and 70 knots: waves 30 feet and snow; visibility one mile or less ..................... Glad the M15 is safe in it's winter berth and covered............. So go on and gloat! Connie

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M17 Rudders
by Larry E Yake 23 Jan '05

23 Jan '05

This question is for Jerry or anyone who has experience with both the old style M17 rudder with the "stepped forward" leading edge below the hull, and the newer style "straight edge" raiseable rudder. I have the older style and am in the process of refinishing and resealing it. The seam between the main body of the rudder and the attached leading edge portion (with 3 - 1/2" wood dowels) had opened and was allowing moisture into the wood. In order to reseal it, I have removed it to clean the surfaces. I am wondering if this would be a good time to convert it to the raiseable "straight edge" type. It has been an inconvenience a few times not being able to raise the rudder, but it is my understanding that the "stepped forward" rudder was the original Lyle Hess design to better balance the helm. It certain is well balanced. My question is how much balance would I lose going to the newer design? Thanks, Larry Yake M17, #200 Tullamore

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Re: M_Boats: Montgomery Art Work...
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 23 Jan '05

23 Jan '05

In a message dated 1/22/2005 9:47:13 PM Pacific Standard Time, dwood(a)woodatwork.com writes: my guess is that funtigo is set up as a photo site only, and you're pushing way beyond the limits of its capability with what you're trying to do here, Bill. I doubt that they're going to be willing to totally reconfigure their site for us Mac users, or the Windows users who are surfing with anything but IE. Hi David, Dont know what to say... I do hope everyone can get to see what I've put together. You are right. Funtigo is a photo site. They don't profess to be anything else except a photo sharing site. And, essentially... that's all I'm doing. They made it available for me to expand by buying more picture space and more bandwidth. I don't know how to do a real web site. For me... it's Funtigo or don't do it. SO, since no one has put anything into this (financially) except me, I guess I'll just keep plugging along. I do hope all of you can get to see the site at some point. Whether it be on a friends computer, one at work or possibly when Funtigo fixes their site. Regards, Bill

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Bella
by Richard Cottrell 23 Jan '05

23 Jan '05

John: Congratulations on your new Bob Eeg M15. No better endorsement than a satisfied customer. Can't wait to see the pictures. Rich Cottrell "Really" M15

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Re: M_Boats: Hatch Boards
by JazzYachts＠aol.com 23 Jan '05

23 Jan '05

>>>>>>>>Do you ever generate scrap 3/8 in. marine plywood of a size to make a 3 board hatchboard for a M-17?? I've tried to find Luan or Teak both locally and at Port Clinton, Ohio, but to no avail. I've got the lower third if I can get the rest. Be happy to pay shipping... >>>>>>>>>>>>>> I got a good bit of correspondence like this after last week's email, and it might make sense to ask, "Is there a critical mass of Montgomery 15 and 17 owners who need hatch boards?" If so, and given accurate dimensions, CLC could do a computer-cut run of Sapele hatch boards (drop boards? Wash boards? Is there any consensus on what the dingdang things are called?) and ship them out at cost or a little above. With the economy of scale it could be done quickly and fairly cheaply. The owners would trim to fit and varnish to taste. A "wash board kit", as it were. I once asked a similar question on the Windmill Class BBS and within a few days had orders for 20 daggerboards, which CLC did at cost. We entered them into our secure online ordering system so people could pay for them online, and the boards slipped out painlessly through our fulfillment machine. Just a thought. Cheers, John C. Harris Chesapeake Light Craft "The Best Boats You Can Build" _http://www.clcboats.com_ (http://www.clcboats.com)

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