February 2003 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Noise
by Honshells 18 Feb '03

18 Feb '03

Are the 4 - 6 hp 4-stroke outboards noisier than their 2-stroke counterparts? I've been around bigger 4-strokes that were whisper-quiet, but perhaps that's an advantage of size (?) . . . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Honshells" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, February 17, 2003 9:22 PM Subject: 4-Stroke Outboard, Break-In, Vibration I just bought a 4-stroke outboard. The owner's manual requires a 10-hour break-in period. I hadn't planned to put 10 hours on ANY motor for the rest of my sailing life: a. Is 10 hours of break-in necessary and b. If so, how do I operate the motor for 10 hours w/out outboarding across Lake Michigan? Jerry May just confirmed for me what I've read elsewhere, that a 4-stroke vibrates quite a bit at any speed because of its 1-cylinder configuration: Is there any motor-mount/transom treatment that can "dampen" the vibration?

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Re: M_Boats: Rudder bolts
by chbenneck＠juno.com 18 Feb '03

18 Feb '03

Hi Doug, Sounds to me as if your aluminum tube in the tiller has corroded and is not releasing the stainless bolt that goes through it. 3 in 1 oil is probably not a good release agent. What you need is a solvent such as a CRC penetrant product or WD-40. Both of these will work with rusted parts (steel), but I have no experience with aluminum corrosion. After soaking the bolt / tube with one of these solvents - and give it a few days to work it's magic - you can try again and see if it will come apart. If it still doesn't want to move then you will have to resort of force. This would involve supporting the bottom side of the rudder cheeks on a heavy vise, that is open just enough for the offending bolt to pass through. Now with a block of hard wood (oak / maple) on the end of the bolt rap it with a heavy hammer, or small hand sledge (5 lbs or so). What you are trying to do is create enough force to break the aluminum / stainless steel bond. This will probably become a two man job: one person holding the rudder head and tiller in position on the vise, while the second administers the hammer blow. If that doesn't work, my next attempt would be to get a hacksaw blade between the tiller and the aluminum rudder cheeks,( use a wedge or a screwdriver blade to gain clearance) and then cut off the bolt - on both sides so that the tiller can be removed. Once the tiller is removed, the aluminum tube should slide out of the tiller, and you can throw it away, and start anew with a new piece of aluminum tube and a new stainless steel bolt. ............and when you reassemble it, don't forget the Neverseize! Connie

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4-Stroke Outboard, Break-In, Vibration
by Honshells 18 Feb '03

18 Feb '03

I just bought a 4-stroke outboard. The owner's manual requires a 10-hour break-in period. I hadn't planned to put 10 hours on ANY motor for the rest of my sailing life: a. Is 10 hours of break-in necessary and b. If so, how do I operate the motor for 10 hours w/out outboarding across Lake Michigan? Jerry May just confirmed for me what I've read elsewhere, that a 4-stroke vibrates quite a bit at any speed because of its 1-cylinder configuration: Is there any motor-mount/transom treatment that can "dampen" the vibration?

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Re: M_Boats: Rudder bolts
by Sandyal55＠aol.com 18 Feb '03

18 Feb '03

In a message dated 2/17/2003 10:47:47 AM US Mountain Standard Time, chbenneck(a)juno.com writes: > and when you > reassemble it, don't forget the Neverseize! > Thanks for the recognition Connie; Sandy

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re: used M15 in Texas
by Randy Watkins 17 Feb '03

17 Feb '03

from: Randy Watkins Hello Fellow Sailors, Anyone looking for a used M15? This ad was in the Austin, Tx paper (02/05/2003) Montgomery - Sail Boat, 15ft, 1980, exc. cond. with trailer, all sails, riggings & 1.5HP Evinrude included. $4500. 210-521-4590 leave message. I don't know the boat but it might be worth checking. Canyon Lake is a fresh water lake near San Antonio, Tx. A sailor friend who is very experienced and owned numerous boats including an M17 sent me this msg. "Randy, I had an chance to go look at a 1980 Monty 15 this last week. I have decided to pass but only because of other commitments. It is in the Austin paper but is located at Canyon Lake. If you know of some one looking for one, it is absolutely like new! I was highly impressed. No stress fractures, shine on the spars, cushions, sails, teak was very nice but is beginning to need attention to finish. Motor is an old Evinrude that is not too cool but he is willing to come below his 4500 asking price. I could find nothing at all that would limit me from a purchase if it were not for current circumstances. I did not like his standing rigging but it would be an easy fix. Other than that, it is a 22 year old new boat. I do not know of anyone else that might like a look. Do you?" Another friend recently found an M15 sitting in a country field in Texas with a for sale sign on it. He purchased it, he said for a "very reasonable" price. Take care, Randy Watkins

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Re: M_Boats: Center of Effort?
by Wilsometer＠aol.com 17 Feb '03

17 Feb '03

In a message dated 2/16/03 4:56:41 PM, Sandyal55(a)aol.com writes: << I don't have a Monty but here's a thought. Would the "raised boom" now be too close to the backstay? If the boom is raised up, the distance from the mast to the backstay is less. HMMMMMM!!! Sandy >> There is no backstay on the M15 Scott Grometer, M15 #478

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Re: M_Boats: Center of Effort?
by Sandyal55＠aol.com 17 Feb '03

17 Feb '03

I don't have a Monty but here's a thought. Would the "raised boom" now be too close to the backstay? If the boom is raised up, the distance from the mast to the backstay is less. HMMMMMM!!! Sandy

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Re: M_Boats: Mast Base Block for Bimini
by Wilsometer＠aol.com 16 Feb '03

16 Feb '03

In a message dated 2/14/03 9:31:17 AM, stever(a)mail.saabnet.com writes: << I am thinking of putting a block of wood under the mast base bracket to raise the boom, and have more headroom under a bimini. I would need new shrouds, a new forestay and a tether to hold down the tack of the jib. Plus some long bolts to fasten the bracket through the wooden block. Am I missing anything here? Are there any reasons not to do this? Thanks, Steve R. >> Steve, Another alternative is to recut your main (raise the foot) so as to not incur cost of new rigging. This would obviously reduce your sail area somewhat, and you would not want to take too much or you would risk upsetting the CE balance. If you only needed a few inches, it might work. Scott Grometer M15 #478 'bebe'

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Re: M_Boats: Contrasting Sails
by chbenneck＠juno.com 15 Feb '03

15 Feb '03

Hi Craig, Sorry I can't answer that question, because I've never owned tanbark colored sails. Why not look at the Pardey's books and check how long they run on a set of sails before they are replaced. But that isn't an answer to your question either since the Pardeys are busy sailing for weeks at a time - i.e., far exceed the sun exposure that we put on our sails. Their sails die from active use: ours from old age......... Connie

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RE: M_Boats: Contrasting Sails
by Morris, Giles 15 Feb '03

15 Feb '03

>parents who lived on a Thames barge Oh, nothing exciting. It's just that it was very difficult to find somewhere to live in England after the war because so many houses had been destroyed. The first home that I remember was a camping trailer (not a mobile home - a real camping trailer). My dad liked boats, so he was probably really happy to find the barge -- but mum has mentioned that she had occasional "moments", like when there was a storm surge on the Medway (the river where they were tied up) while dad was away and she was trying to keep the barge on the river and off the other craft at 3am in a storm. At least she had a short commute - she worked in the office at the boatyard. People lived on all sorts of boats then -- lots of converted landing craft and MTB-type (like American PT boats). Even as late as the early 70s there were converted bridge pontoons being used as pleasure craft (at 20ft LOA they were a little small to live aboard). For what little it's worth, I don't remember the mix of cream and tanbark on Thames barges so it may be fairly recent (i.e. after the mid 70s) Giles Morris Arlington VA Montgomery 15 "Umiaq" Vancouver 25 "Dolphin" Miscellaneous small craft

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