December 2003 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

new centerboard cost, M17
by MC Carpenter 03 Dec '03

03 Dec '03

Its a bit late in my case, I have already got a stainless version, but I just got the prices of a new plate steel centerboard copy cut and drilled for $72 then cleaned and hot dipped galvanized for $37.50

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Re: previous board diagram
by MC Carpenter 03 Dec '03

03 Dec '03

I got the new stainless centerboard today but it is 11 lbs too light. Do you know a way a simple way to find the exact center of weight for easy lifting it in to place and the exact center of effort, I know the center constantly changes while under way but for records I would like to know where it is and how it changes with different sail plans. ( reefing )

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Re: M_Boats: RE:Lifting an M-15
by Woodsybill＠aol.com 03 Dec '03

03 Dec '03

In hoisting my M17, I use two, 2-inch wide nylon straps (similar to towstraps but stouter for lifting and not pulling), one in front of keel and the other to the rear under the skeg behind the keel and both connected to single hook on hoist. No balance problem and no extra fittings. I'm sure off -the shelf tow straps would work fine since there is not that much weight involved but I'm a real weeny and already had one lifting strap. Bill K M17 #55

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Re: previous board diagram
by MC Carpenter 03 Dec '03

03 Dec '03

I finally figured out how to find the center and it makes changing the centerboard a snap. I made a paper copy and triangulated it smaller and smaller until I reached the smallest size. Stuck a nail in the center of the smallest triangle mark and bingo. I drilled a hole through the board at about 3/8 up from that point to allow it to just hang in the right direction yet be easily moved. I put a 5/16 bolt thru and hung it on 2 x 4 each side. Now I can side the board on my bucket dolly to the exact spot and gentle slid it up and down to get the holes to match up. Works great and with just one person makes the board easy to put on and off from now on. Man handling that board off the boat the first time was a night mare.

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RE:Lifting an M-15
by Ludlow, Don 03 Dec '03

03 Dec '03

I did an experiment to find the center of gravity of an M-15. I rigged lines from the two side cleats and the bow cleat to the hoist hook then lifted the boat up off the trailer. At first, I set the harness some 6" forward of the companionway hatch and the the boat lifted stern first. I kept adjusting the harness until I got the boat to lift level. The center was 8" aft of the shroud connections with the mast up. I'm considering installing two "U" bolts, one on each side at this point, located through the rubrail. This area has a channel shape, and is where the hull and deck sandwich togeather so it should take the load. I've heard that they have used the shroud fitting to lift M-15's at the factory and it is bolted through this point. I've checked 5/16" "U" bolts in West Catalog which have working loads above 1600#. I would run a safety line to the bow and stern cleats to help hold her level and also tak the load if a U bolt failed. Any comments. Don Ludlow M-15 #620 Sweet Dream -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-request@mailman.xmission.com] Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 9:24 PM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 9, Issue 33 Send montgomery_boats mailing list submissions to montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com You can reach the person managing the list at montgomery_boats-owner(a)mailman.xmission.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of montgomery_boats digest..." Today's Topics: 1. good picture received (MC Carpenter) 2. Re: older M17 history archives (MC Carpenter) 3. Re: 2004 Montgomery 17 ready (and other new boats) (fml162(a)aol.com) 4. Re: 2004 Montgomery 17 ready (and other new boats) (Gordon Allgrove) 5. Re: ballast (chbenneck(a)juno.com) 6. Re: ballast (Rotortom2(a)aol.com) 7. Great Lakes Folk Music (Honshells) 8. good picture received (Honshells) 9. Re: ballast (Saltm17(a)aol.com) 10. RE:heaving to (Roberta Dvorscak) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 19:11:28 -0500 From: "MC Carpenter" <southisland2(a)earthlink.net> Subject: M_Boats: good picture received To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Message-ID: <002301c3b2e8$b02c83d0$a3154bab@D60D0Q21> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Mark, >From the spec sheet you sent me : the board goes down to 40 inches - 21 inches = 19 inches, and the total area is 2.65 sq ft, I am taking the mathematical center of that area and building a dagger board to fit in the slot with the same centers. Just to see if its work out before continuing with the stainless board. I'm using 1/4 plywood as a model board. It looks like I can do a positive flotation but I will lose almost 1/3 of the interior storage space. That's a lot and I wonder if there is any other way to do it. I have plenty of scrape wood around to change my mind if it does not work out. I 've said I wanted to come back in the next life as a rich stock broker, But I just learnt what the U. S. Senators make, so I'll just change my mind on that too. ;>) Mike ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 19:13:03 -0500 From: "MC Carpenter" <southisland2(a)earthlink.net> Subject: Re: M_Boats: older M17 history archives To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Message-ID: <002901c3b2e8$e5f2d780$a3154bab@D60D0Q21> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Mark, Is that line across the board the previous water line, its the line just below the pivot point at the bottom of the picture. Mike

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