- montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Do you need crew for 2016 WICR ??
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 27 Oct '15

27 Oct '15

We have an experienced party who expresses a desire to crew on a boat at the 2016 WICR - if you have a position available, Please contact us through_http://www.wrinkleboat.webs.com_ (http://www.wrinkleboat.webs.com/) and we will get you together. Thank You, GO M-17t sail # 354 'Tiny Purple Fishes'

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2016 WrinkleBoat Intergalactic Championship Regatta & Ran-Tan
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 25 Oct '15

25 Oct '15

Yep - it's that time again folks - have you ever been to WICR? What? -You haven't made it to the largest annual gathering of WrinkleBoats for networking, sharing sailing stories, 'trade secrets' for Wrinkleboat solutions, Stump the Designer sessions, sailing competition, the latest rigging trends/ solutions, renewal and updates on what the 'group' is up to? It is a gathering of the WrinkleBoat Tribe. Two to 3 days or longer if you like -it is a great time of the year here in the desert to go sailing - if your partner isn't up for sailing, there is Scottsdale for shopping - jewels,fashion and collector cars, golf (more courses than _____), hiking, world class biking (on and offroad), spas, horseback riding, MC riding - it is THE perfect weather for outdoor activities and certainly the sailing can show promise! January 15,16,17, 2016 - WICR Racing 1/16 and 1/17 warm-up on Friday - Sunday is an 'Out and Back' Race around a couple of islands - no marks - mellow start - approx 10 miles. Monday is a holiday for travel if you can use that. Follow the event at: http://www.wrinkleboat.webs.com The overall winner of the races gets the BIG honkin' Perpetual Trophy for a year and their name inscribed in WrinkleBoat history! BACKSTAY CHICKENS for those that haven't yet been formally initiated into the WrinkleBoat Fleet and FUN for ALL. All Lyle Hess and Jerry Montgomery designs are welcome to sail - if your boat was designed by a friend of those two - fine!! Come sail in the desert in January - we will be there waiting for you and willing to help in your planning if needed. Great support provided at the venue and by the host club - Arizona Yacht Club (56 years!) This is their Birthday Regatta and the first Leukemia Cup Regatta of the New Year - please help us support a good cause - the best way-FUN way - is to participate in the WICR Ran-Tan! PM me with any ?'s gilasailr -at- ay-O- ell. com GO M-17t 'Tiny Purple Fishes' Photo credit A.& D. Benson - 2013 WICR Sunday morning- headed to WL mark 15 kts.

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Re: M_Boats: Stock wooden rudder
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 23 Oct '15

23 Oct '15

Tom B, What did the rudder weigh? Type and density of woods (different types of mahogany over the years) affect the weight and ultimate strength - my last wood rudder was little better than bad pallet lumber and warped in a few months (stored indoors) Inquiring minds... That is why 'we' built a plastic one. No warping and mucho control over strength,weight and shape! Thanks GO M-17t sail # 354 'Tiny Purple Fishes' In a message dated 10/21/2015 4:58:55 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com writes: Hello John, Another Monty owner already got the info I need to me. Thanks for your offer. Tom B On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 1:50 PM, John Schinnerer <john(a)eco-living.net> wrote: > I have a 74 - plain wooden rudder, painted, two pintles, no sliding rod > gizmo. I can weight it if you want - I assume the rudder was pretty much > the same from 74 to 77? > > cheers, > John S. > > On 10/21/2015 11:27 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: > >> Does anybody know how heavy the stock wooden rudder was on 17 Montgomerys >> built in 1977? >> >> > -- > John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design > -------------------------------------------- > - Eco-Living - > Whole Systems Design Services > People - Place - Learning - Integration > john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 > http://eco-living.net > http://sociocracyconsulting.com > >

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Re: M_Boats: Stock wooden rudder from J.Owens
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 22 Oct '15

22 Oct '15

I tried to post this on the Montgomery forum last night but it kicked back and said I wasn't authorized to post. If you think it would be benificial to anybody you can pass it on. If not just delete it. Hope all is well in your world. As many of you know I make countless rudders, tillers, daggers, hatches, etc. for boats every year. Well over 500 this year. I know from experience that the weights vary radically. Just because it is mahogany, or teak, or ash, cypress, etc. says very little about the weight. There is a production boat I make the stock rudders for that is from a blank roughly 4' x 1' x 1 1/2" and the mahogany blanks vary by as much as 10 pounds. There are some racing classes such as Sunfish, Laser, and Force 5 that give a small window that the boards have to fit in and sometimes it's very hard to meet that. As far as I know neither Jerry nor Bob have ever stated a weight requirement but I've never discussed this with either of them in our discussions. John Owens J O Woodworks / B & L Ram Pumps 903-894-6293 870 County Road 3812 Troup, Texas 75789 _http://www.jowoodworks.com_ (http://www.jowoodworks.com/) _jowoodworks(a)yahoo.com_ (mailto:jowoodworks@yahoo.com) _http://www.blrampump.com_ (http://www.blrampump.com/) _john(a)blrampump.com_ (mailto:john@blrampump.com) In a message dated 10/22/2015 8:52:41 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com writes: I am adding a 5hp tohatsu to the transom weight also. About 58 #'s. I agonized about getting the 3.5 which is only about 40 pounds but the winds down here just north of Corpus Christi, Tx. are considerable and generate a vicious chop. I talked to Jerry about making the M17 really efficient to windward and he suggested adding some weight to the hull and getting a highcut, 80% jib and using a barber hauler to be able to pull it inboard to about 9degrees from the centerline of the boat and double reefing the main. The traveler car should be pulled to windward as far as possible to be able to trim the main to the jib. He said the boat would scoot to windward dressed like that. I dropped the cast iron board this year and faired the leading and trailing edges to better conform to Jerry's idea of an efficient foil shape. The board ended up weighing only 140 pounds though I did not take any more than about 5 pounds off of it when I was grinding it. So the stock board was about about 35 pounds light as per boat specs. I added 50 pounds of lead to the base of the mast step in the hull to make up for that. I figured the 60 pound battery would then be enough extra weight to get the boat to push to windward. Lots of dithering with these little boats. Good thing I am retired. May I recommend getting a subscription to "Small Craft Advisor". It is a great magazine, bi-monthly, about little boats and the handling, maintenance and improvement of same. Since you also have a kickup rudder you might be interested in a piece of gear I devised to add a slip clutch to the line that holds the rudder blade in place while sailing and will only release if you hit something solid with the rudder, thus protecting your rudder attachment without having to resort to shear pins which are a pain to change out on the water after a grounding. Regards, Tom Buzzi On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:02 AM, Larry Yake <larryyake(a)gmail.com> wrote: > I have an Ida Sailor kick-up rudder also, and have wondered about the > additional weight at the stern. I would imagine, though, that the weight > gain is somewhat cancelled by it's buoyancy once the rudder is in the > water. Not as much as a wood rudder for sure, but it must be lighter in the > water than it is out. > > On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 11:08 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> > wrote: > > > The stock wooden one of mahogany with pintles and sliding ss rod weighed > a > > little over 22 pounds. The IDA rudder I have made of high density plastic > > top and bottom with aluminum side plates for a hinge weighs in at about > 60 > > pounds. A hugh addition to weight right at the back of the boat. Not > good. > > I may go back to a wooden one and make it a kickup with side plates. Or > > redo the top half in aluminum plate. > > My list of winter projects is starting to grow. > > Tom B > > > > On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 10:02 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < > > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> wrote: > > > > > Tom B, > > > > > > What did the rudder weigh? Type and density of woods (different types > of > > > mahogany over the years) affect the weight and ultimate strength - my > > last > > > wood rudder was little better than bad pallet lumber and warped in a > few > > > months (stored indoors) > > > > > > Inquiring minds... > > > That is why 'we' built a plastic one. No warping and mucho control over > > > strength,weight and shape! > > > > > > Thanks > > > GO > > > M-17t sail # 354 'Tiny Purple Fishes' > > > > > > > > > In a message dated 10/21/2015 4:58:55 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, > > > thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com writes: > > > > > > Hello John, > > > Another Monty owner already got the info I need to me. Thanks for your > > > offer. > > > Tom B > > > > > > On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 1:50 PM, John Schinnerer <john(a)eco-living.net > > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > I have a 74 - plain wooden rudder, painted, two pintles, no sliding > > rod > > > > gizmo. I can weight it if you want - I assume the rudder was pretty > > much > > > > the same from 74 to 77? > > > > > > > > cheers, > > > > John S. > > > > > > > > On 10/21/2015 11:27 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: > > > > > > > >> Does anybody know how heavy the stock wooden rudder was on 17 > > > Montgomerys > > > >> built in 1977? > > > >> > > > >> > > > > -- > > > > John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design > > > > -------------------------------------------- > > > > - Eco-Living - > > > > Whole Systems Design Services > > > > People - Place - Learning - Integration > > > > john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 > > > > http://eco-living.net > > > > http://sociocracyconsulting.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

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Re: M_Boats: Outhaul and reef point boom hardware
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 21 Oct '15

21 Oct '15

Tyler - at Home Depot they call it anti-corrosive paste - in the electrical dept. (typically used on aluminum wiring terminations) the 'Chandlery' name escapes me - it is in the boat tool box. GO In a message dated 10/21/2015 5:11:17 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, danielgrich(a)gmail.com writes: I have too. The problem is that over the long haul one can get galvanic corrosion from the two disparate metals, which causes the aluminum side on the spar to get brittle. The fitting could fail suddenly. JudyB once game me some good advice about this, but I forgot!! There is some kind of stuff in a tube that electricians use to isolate the metals. So painting the threads with that stuff should reduce or eliminate the problem. Somebody on this list will know what that is! Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich(a)gmail.com > On Oct 21, 2015, at 5:06 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > I've installed cheek blocks and cleats for both reefing and outhaul to the > boom by drilling holes, tapping them with #10 threads with a tapping > drill, and screwing on the hardware with #10 stainless bolts. Easy to do, > and trouble-free afterward. I used the same procedure to move the > mainsheet bail forward when I installed a longer tiller. > > Rick > M17 #633 > Lynne L > > On Wednesday, October 21, 2015, John Schinnerer <john(a)eco-living.net> wrote: > >> I'll second the question about attaching hardware to boom. >> >> My mainsheet block attachment point on the boom appears to have been >> moved forward. There are two sets of what I take to be prior attachment >> points aft of where it is now. I want to put it back to original >> location. The stainless strap that the block mounts to looks to be >> riveted on using aluminum rivets. >> >> Also I have multiple reef point hardware on the boom, curious to compare >> current mounting method to others' experiences. >> >> cheers, >> John S. >> >> On 10/21/2015 01:39 PM, Tyler Backman wrote: >> >>> I am planning to add an outhaul and second reef point hardware to my >>> M15, and have some questions: >>> >>> -What is the recommended way to mount hardware to the boom? I don't >>> want to have stainless rivets fail from galvanic corrosion. I've >>> thought about using plastic shoulder bushings and bolts, but that >>> wouldn't let the hardware mount perfectly flush. >>> >>> -Does anyone have hardware recommendations for the reef point and >>> outhaul? >>> >>> -Is an internal outhaul worthwhile? >>> >>> Sincerely, Tyler Davis, CA M15 #157 "Defiant" >>> >>> >>> >> -- >> John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design >> -------------------------------------------- >> - Eco-Living - >> Whole Systems Design Services >> People - Place - Learning - Integration >> john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 >> http://eco-living.net >> http://sociocracyconsulting.com >> >>

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Stock wooden rudder
by Thomas Buzzi 21 Oct '15

21 Oct '15

Does anybody know how heavy the stock wooden rudder was on 17 Montgomerys built in 1977?

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Re: M_Boats: Outhaul and reef point boom hardware
by csugg 21 Oct '15

21 Oct '15

I just finished building a boom for M17 #347. I ordered boom and all fittings from Dyer. They recommended and supplied SS rivets for fittings. Worked well. Chesley Sugg M17 #347

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Outhaul and reef point boom hardware
by Tyler Backman 21 Oct '15

21 Oct '15

I am planning to add an outhaul and second reef point hardware to my M15, and have some questions: -What is the recommended way to mount hardware to the boom? I don't want to have stainless rivets fail from galvanic corrosion. I've thought about using plastic shoulder bushings and bolts, but that wouldn't let the hardware mount perfectly flush. -Does anyone have hardware recommendations for the reef point and outhaul? -Is an internal outhaul worthwhile? Sincerely, Tyler Davis, CA M15 #157 "Defiant"

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2016 WrinkleBoat ICR - Crew looking for boat(s)
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 19 Oct '15

19 Oct '15

We have a couple of sailors expressing a desire to crew at the 2016 WrinkleBoat Intergalactic Championship Regatta and Ran-Tan - (who wouldn't want to participate ? ?) PM me if you have a position available - these are not 'multiperson crews in uniforms' so if you have a spot, need crew or would like to share the experience, please contact me at 'gila sail r (at) ay oh el DOT com' and we will try to make proper matches. Marty C. crewed for me this year - I made a new sailor friend, had fun and Marty helped produce great results ! Rumor has it there will be a new 'fathead' sailing there with it's designer driving - unconfirmed but...true. _http://www.wrinkleboat.webs.com_ (http://www.wrinkleboat.webs.com/) Thanks for your interest! Have Fun, Come Sailing in the desert in January 2016! GO PS - If you are coming to Phoenix in January to sail, please contact us so we can add your info to the "Who's Coming' list - thanks

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Mustang Survival PFD recall
by Dave Scobie 19 Oct '15

19 Oct '15

I received the following notice from BoatUS – *Mustang Survival has announced it is voluntarily recalling two selected models of inflatable personal flotation devices (PFDs) manufactured in Canada between September 2014 and September 2015. The recall is being issued for the reinforcement of a portion of the bladder assembly that may tear when the bladder lobes are flexed apart while fully inflated.* *Read BoatUS’s complete notice:* *http://www.boatus.com/pressroom/release.asp?ID=1150#.ViJypysmjBw <http://www.boatus.com/pressroom/release.asp?ID=1150#.ViJypysmjBw>* Here is the link to Mustang Survival’s recall announcements: http://www.mustangsurvival.com/advisories? As readers know I advocate wearing a PFD all the time <https://sagemarineblog.wordpress.com/2015/05/01/more-comments-on-pfds/> … now it is time to confirm your PFD is safe to use. -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com

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