July 2008 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: Brightwork Refinishing
by Mark Delin 08 Jul '08

08 Jul '08

Hi Paint4real, Thanks for your suggestions. I have been unhappy with my previous experience with using the two-part chemical teak cleaners because of the damage it caused the last time I used it - when I scrubbed the wood, the softer grain between the harder lignin got removed leaving a striped and rough texture that I found very difficult to sand smooth. Perhaps I was over zealous. So far, I've succeeded in cleaning the wood substantially using acetone. One person recommended using household bleach to take the gray off - it seemed to work a little bit. In my experience it doesn't take a whole lot of sanding to take the old gray look off. I'm planning to refinish with Cetol Light, followed by the Marine Gloss - this produced a pretty decent finish on my old Cape Dory Typhoon I had prior to my M-15. When I re-apply the toe rail and other wood - I'm going to first coat the bolts with the old standard bedding compound Dolphinite - I have found that this really helps prevent corrosion, and will hopefully make the rails easier to remove in the future. It is also useful to use between the wood and fiberglass - helps join them nicely together and prevents water infiltration into the screw holes. Mark

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Re: M_Boats: help with slug order
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 08 Jul '08

08 Jul '08

In a message dated 7/7/2008 4:07:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wriker(a)mindspring.com writes: I'm getting old too but won't admit it. Ask my wife. It's been 9 years since I last used slugs and I don't remember all the reasons. I'm getting old. Oh, yeah. I said that already. Aerodynamics is part of the reason. When rigging at the dock, in the wind, you need to raise the main all the way, while shoving slugs up the slot. Let's see, that's one hand to aim the slugs, one to pull the halyard and one to keep the previously loaded slugs from dropping out. And I've only got two hands for singlehanding. Who said slugs are easier? With a boltrope, just start the first few inches, cleat the halyard and on to the next task. No need to flog the whole sail before you're out on the water and it's time to use it. I started handling boltrope sails under race conditions 54 years ago. It comes naturally and seems more seamanlike. Bill Riker M15 - #184 Storm Petrel It's rare to see anyone who has used bolt ropes and slugs go back to bolt ropes. In my view bolt ropes are less "seamanlike" than slugs. Single handing takes longer to raise, lower and stow a bolt rope sail than a slug sail. The boat has to be positioned with bow to wind to install bolt ropes. Slugs can be put in from any wind direction and sail raised later...but as they say "different strokes". Like the others who have already posted, I don't raise the sail as slugs are fed in. They get stuffed in the slot before the halyard is hooked up to the head. Slugs falling out aren't a problem and neither is inserting a slug stop. There's no more feeding the luff after slugs are installed no matter how many times the sail is raised or lowered. How aerodynamic sails are with bolt ropes are (to make them faster than slug sails) could be debated (whether it makes a difference on a Monty trailer sailor). A tight halyard with slugs gives near or equal results...too close to call. I seriously doubt Montys with bolt ropes sail faster/closer than Montys with slugs. If a person is slicing frog hairs, baggy sails are best downwind and could be an equalizer when using less "aerodynamic" slugs. In my humble opinion the main reason bolt ropes are seen is because mfg costs are lower. It's like sleeves on dink sails...cheaper to make but less versatile in the sail handling dept. I started sailing 51 yrs ago on a old beat up El Toro pram I bought for $5 from my paper route. There weren't many bolt ropes in the 1950s. Most boats had wood masts with tracks and slides. My first bolt rope (which I soon converted to slugs) was in the late 1960s...and a few others since. The most recent is on a trailer in my back yard...next to one slugged boat, one tracked boat and one sleeved boat. Slugs and tracks are best to me. Bill P. **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

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Re: M_Boats: Removing Brightwork for Refinishing
by Paint4Real＠aol.com 08 Jul '08

08 Jul '08

I've refinished the toe rails on my 15 a couple of times (without removing them -- your experience is exactly what I anticipated, and I imagined I'd be drilling out teak plugs or cutting off bolts with a Dremel tool until the next big freeze.) The mouse and mini-sanders available now can get into all sorts of tough places, and the few inches that can't be reached (aside the coaming's steepest flare) are easy in the elbow grease spectrum.) Before you sand a lot of teak off, though, I'd do the standard teak cleaning regimen, with the two-part liquids available in any marine venue. That will restore a huge amount of the discoloration and weathering, and it will raise the grain, so your sanding job will be much more efficient and effective. Hit it with teak oil, and you'll be thinking you're looking at showroom stuff. To reiterate, don't restore teak by taking sandpaper to it at the outset. You'll just turn a lot of your brightwork into dust. ************** Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

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Re: M_Boats: help with slug order
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 08 Jul '08

08 Jul '08

What was the problem with slugs? Bill P. **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

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Slugs and Rigging the Main
by John Gonzalez 07 Jul '08

07 Jul '08

Great idea, Connie, on having a 'built in' bungee cord on the boom for furling. I had not thought of that. I, too, never raise my main when feeding slugs into the slot at the dock. 1. I suspend the rear of my boom via the topping lift 2. Feed the gooseneck into the slot 3. Lower the sail stop to below the slot 4. Remove the bungee cords that keep the main on the boom 5. Bend on the main halyard at the head 6. Feed the slugs by hand up the slot 7. Raise the sail stop to above the slot 8. Rebungee the rigged main to the boom 9. Motor out, point into the wind, remove the bungee cords, and raise the main I think I will move to a bungee cord in place of a sail stop, too; great suggestion that was, that I read here several weeks ago. Sincerely, John Bella, M-15, 628

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Interlux 2000E
by Flickasf＠aol.com 07 Jul '08

07 Jul '08

I am almost finished coat the keel of my M 15. The board, which was removed, has had several coats of the 2000E put on at about 84 degrees. It took about 2 1/2 hours to dry. I suggest that you call Interlux which has techs who will answer your questions. I found them to be very helpful. Bert M 15, Zephyr ************** Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

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Re: M_Boats: Experience with Interprotect 2000E ??
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 07 Jul '08

07 Jul '08

In a message dated 7/7/2008 10:37:29 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, paint4real(a)aol.com writes: Perhaps some of you have used Interprotect 2000E barrier coat and can answer a couple of questions.? The literature itself seems self-contradictory, and also doesn't jibe with what I'm experiencing. As part of an extensive gelcoat blister repair, I'm using Interprotect 2000E (over Epiglass), on top of which I'd like to finish up with Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT antifouling. A lot is made of overcoating the Interprotect with antifouling when it is slightly tacky (using the "thumbprint" test), but I'm finding that each coat is already touch dry by the end of the roughly 1/2 hour it takes to apply a coat to my M15.? Curiously, the next coat of Interprotect can go on in 3-5 hours (depending on ambient temperature), or as much as 2 weeks later, without sanding. Interlux's own FAQ list tells of the dire consequences of applying antifouling paint after the "tacky" stage of the underlying Interprotect coat.? (The consequences are, the antifouling won't stick for long.)? And yet even if I immediately began applying the antifouling coat after applying the final coat of Interprotect, it wouldn't be a wet-into-wet (or wet-into-tacky) situation.? It would be "too late," to use Interlux's words.? The Interprotect simply dries too quickly.? (I'm working in temperatures ranging from 70 to 90 degrees -- undeniably, the drying time is greatly shortened as the day heats up.) Yet Interlux's own charts specify that the minimum overcoating time -- putting Fiberglass Bottomkote ACT over Interprotect -- is 5 hours at 73 degrees and 3 hours at 95 degrees.??So immediately following up with the first?ACT coat would flout these minimums -- and yet?either of these is hours past the "thumbprint" stage. Finally, let's assume that it IS "too late" to overcoat wet-into-tacky.? The only references to "what next?" that I can find are advisories that you have to remove everything and start over.? Is it not possible to let the Interprotect cure, then sand it with 80-grit (judiciously -- obviously you don't want to thin down the Interprotect barrier coat), and apply an antifouling bottom?coat? Any insights or advices would be greatly appreciated. _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats You probably have super low humidity and it's causing the interprotect to cure faster. Anyway, if past the tacky stage it can be sanded lightly. 80 grit can be used but it's overkill. 100 or 120 is plenty. If you don't want to sand, buy some Petit Skip Sand. It's a solvent that's wiped or rolled on and it makes the surface tacky again.. Then you paint over it. I used it on a 42' sailboat epoxy barrier and it worked fine. I did the barrier coat on the entire hull from keel to deck. It stayed tacky overnight here in Florida's 90 F temp and 95% humidity so follow up painting was no rush. There were no bottom problems 5 yrs later when I sold the boat. It's way easier than sanding. Bill P. **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

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Revarnish rudder?
by Andrei Caldararu 07 Jul '08

07 Jul '08

Hello, The varnish on my M-17 rudder is starting to peel off, especially at the leading edge. Did anyone here revarnish theirs? Do I need to remove the old varnish first and then recoat it? What materials have people used? How many coats are needed? The rudder will spend its time out of the water when boat is not sailed. Thanks, Andrei.

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Re: M_Boats: San Francisco Opens New Boat Ramp
by George Morrison 06 Jul '08

06 Jul '08

Here is a working hyperlink to the article about the new S.F. launch ramp. The other hyperlink posted with letters from the next sentence, for some reason. http://sf2000.sfgov.org/site/port_page.asp?id=82770

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San Francisco Opens New Boat Ramp
by George Morrison 06 Jul '08

06 Jul '08

I just found out San Francisco opened it's new 2-lane boat launch. http://sf2000.sfgov.org/site/port_page.asp?id=82770 It's right next to the old ramp at China Basin. I drove by today, and it looks GREAT! I never used the old ramp because it didn't look feasable to launch my M15 down a single, short, steep ramp in tidal water, next to a tall, fixed raised pier as the loading dock. The new facility has a raised pier too, but it's flanked by two nice and long loading floats. This is big news to us S.F. Bay trailer sailors. Being able to launch right in San Francisco is fantastic! George Morrison M15 #319 San Jose, CA

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