June 2006 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Monty T-shirt, Sweatshirt, orders
by Nebwest2＠aol.com 20 Jun '06

20 Jun '06

OK gang, Here's what I have to offer for Monty T's and Sweatshirts. If you haven't seen the artwork you can check it out at www.havasumontgomery.funtigo.com . Look for the "T-shirt and Sweatshirt" link and click on it. Thanks to David Wood for designing the artwork and allowing us to use it. The shirts and sweats will be sold on a pre-paid basis. This allows me to get all your orders and then to order exactly the number of large, x-large, small, etc. I need to have a minimum order of 50 items to make this happen. If you email me with an order I will email you back with an invoice. You'll then print the invoice and send a check for the total amount. I will hold all the checks unitil 7-15-06. If I have a total of at least 50 items ordered and paid for by 7-15-06, I will then tell the t-shirt shop to go ahead and print the shirts. It will take about 2-3 weeks to get them and then I'll ship'em out. So I would expect to ship around the 1st week in August (depending on how fast the supplier gets them to me). If I do not have 50 "paid" items ordered by 7-15-06 I will either return your check to you or destroy it (your choice) and we'll have to forget the whole deal. 4 items are available: Regular T-shirt w/pocket for $16.00 Long Sleeve T-shirt w/pocket for $21.00 Heavy-weight Sweatshirt for $ 25.00 Zip-up (full length zipper) Hooded Sweatshirt for $45.00 Add $2.00/item for XXL All items are Ash Gray with a 5 color silk screen on the back and a 1 color silk screen of pocket logo on the front. The reason for the gray t-shirt is that the gray will work well with the colors of the silk screened image. If you wear a large, order a large. The T-shirts are made by Anvil and the sizes run pretty true. All items are pre-shrunk. Shipping will be UPS plus $2.50, just like the mugs and hats. E-mail me at Nebwest2(a)aol.com with questions or orders. I will get back with you within 48 hours. Please don't post orders or questions on the list so we don't tie it up. Feel free to add any Monty Hats or Monty Mugs to you orders if you haven't gotten yours yet. I am picking up a new order of hats on Monday and will have both in stock. OK guys/gals. The ball is in your court. Tell you what.....I'm gonna order 4 items for myself so now you guys only have to come up with 46! Sean

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Fishfinder Installation
by Rick Langer 19 Jun '06

19 Jun '06

I'm having trouble getting my new Garmin Fishfinder 140 to work properly. It came with a transom mount transducer which I siliconed to the center of the lowest plank in the aft port cabin locker (a good place I thought). When I do get a reading, it seems to be accurate as measured against a handheld depth meter and other boats, but the problem is I don't always get a reading (just shows zero indefinitely) or I initially get a reading which doesn't change as the water depth changes. On the Chesapeake Bay Cruise I used it for more than a few hours and it either read zero for long periods or read accurately for only a short time. I finally gave up on it. Today I popped it off. The silicone seal seemed tight with no air gaps. I went to the river and while using silly putty I couldn't get any reading (other than zero) from it, trying 6 or 7 different spots. I put it over the side with the silly putty still on the transducer and got no reading. I cleaned the putty off and put it over the side and got accurate readings once it started to register. Registering took from 10 seconds to sometimes minutes and a few times never showed anything but zero after being on many minutes. Before I go to Garmin, who will probably tell me I ruined the transducer trying to silicone it to the floor, I thought I'd pass it by you smart folks. Thanks, Rick Langer M15 #337 Bluebird

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Re: M_Boats: Tomales Bay
by chbenneck＠juno.com 19 Jun '06

19 Jun '06

Hi Jeff, Anchoring 101: The type of anchor you use depends on the character of the bottom, which you can get from your nautical chart. Sand, mud, rocks, gravel, ..... For general use on my previous M15, I used a small Bruce, about 10 feet of chain, and had a 100 foot rode as my working anchor. I also had an aluminum Danforth with chain and rode that I just used as a lunch hook. I also carried a 7 lb Fortress, with 10 feet of chain and a 150 foot rode as my "back up" anchor (insurance policy if you will) Always have at least two anchors. If you should loose the first one, and you don't have a second available (with chain and rode - ready for use) - then what do you do .....? Anchors are lost by motorboat yahoos running over your rode and cutting it with their propeller(s). You can also loose an anchor if someone gets your rode in his propeller while trying to anchor too close to you, and he has to cut it to free his propeller. For a good night's sleep, under any but flat calm conditions, (and can you guarantee that it will stay flat calm....) two anchors out, gives enormous peace of mind. These are set at about a 30 degree angle to each other and the boat. Use all the rode you can........... There is nothing wrong with anchoring in 6 feet of water and using 100 feet of rode. You are not anchored if you are in 6 feet of water, at low tide, have 8 feet of rode out, and have a 4 foot tide coming in .... The name of the game is to only have a horizontal pull on the shank of the anchor, and that is achieved with the chain that keeps the shank on the bottom, and the 100 feet of rode.......... That keeps the anchor in the bottom, digging deeper as the pull increases. Any vertical pull on the anchor rode, lifts the anchor out of the bottom; e.g., the anchor isn't holding on to anything, but is just a weight on the end of the rode. Anchoring is an art form, and you keep learning new tricks and solutions to anchoring problems every time you do it. That's part of the fun of sailing. It's a never-ending learning process. Happy, and uneventful learning. Connie ex M15 LEPPO

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Monty T-shirt, Sweatshirt, orders
by Nebwest2＠aol.com 17 Jun '06

17 Jun '06

OOPS! Sorry, my bad....the site is www.havasumontgomerys.funtigo.com I left the "s" out in montgomerys. Sean

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What's New
by Bill Lamica 16 Jun '06

16 Jun '06

If you have not visited the Photo Site in a few days, there is some new stuff to check out. Sean Mulligan found "Windward Skunk. Martin Pepper owns her and she is a bit (understated) unusual. She has the hull of an M23, cut down a couple of inches (so I'm told) and the cabin of an M17. She was intended for racing. I'm waiting to get further info on her, but all of the photos are published. Next is Norm Bundek's M15 Bow roller/Claw anchor, chain and rode installation. Norm will be on the SoCal Potter Catalina five day cruise and installed the bow anchor to control swing while anchored next to others. I made this in a PDF as Norm will be sending more pics to add to his album after his return from Catalina. In addition, he will also send a photo of the inside of the cabin so we can see how the chain and rode is stored. Nice modification. Lastly is a Bill's personal photo page (mine). I call it a hidden page because the only link to it is from the "what's new" page. I just bought an HP slide, negative, photo scanner and I'm working on about 1500 old slides from my guiding and river running days. I've also put in a few colorful pics and one of myself so you'll be able to download it and use it on the rec room dart board. Bill http://www.msogphotosite.com/WhasNew.html

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Walt Murray, windvanes
by htmills＠bright.net 16 Jun '06

16 Jun '06

I know some of you have heard of, and some corresponded with, Walt Murray, who maintained a web page with plans for build-it-yourself self-steering windvanes. Today, Jan Alkema, an internet friend of his, announced that Walt recently passed away of a heart attack. A sad day for sailors everywhere. Tod Mills M17 #408 BuscaBrisas

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Re: M_Boats: Wanted: Opportunity to sail M 15
by kroddenberry＠hughes.net 16 Jun '06

16 Jun '06

Hi Robbin, Thanks for your invitation and I may very well take you up on it. It may be a while before I can get over to you. I generally like to plan my trips to the Bay to see our daughters who live in No. VA and MD. Fortunate for us they are coming to see us soon. But sorry for the delay in getting back with you. Ken ----Original Message---- From: robbin.roddewig(a)verizon.net Date: 06/06/2006 9:08 PM To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"<montgomery_boats@mailman. xmission.com> Subj: Re: M_Boats: Wanted: Opportunity to sail M 15 Hi Ken, I am at the opposite end of VA but have an M-15 that I sail out of Chesapeake Beach MD (Breezy Point Marina). I am just finishing some work on the keel and rebuilding the trailer but I expect to be back at the marina in a couple of weeks. If you would like to go out let me know. You could get the feel for a vintage M-15 as mine is an '81. Robbin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Roddenberry" <kroddenberry(a)hughes.net> To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, June 05, 2006 9:48 PM Subject: M_Boats: Wanted: Opportunity to sail M 15 > I'm looking for an opportunity to sail on a M 15. However I have not seen > nor do I know of one in my area. I live in the far southwest corner of > Virginia (Jonesville). I would be willing to travel a few hundred miles > if one were available to see and sail. > Ken > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi- bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: mast question
by kingneptune46＠netscape.com 14 Jun '06

14 Jun '06

Hello Jeff, I would use a stainless tang. That's the way it's been done since I can remember. If corrosion is a concern you can use "Lanocote" as a barrier between the parts. You could also use a nylon or rubber washer to increase separation. Since it's the forstay tang, just remove the masthead and bolt through and use a locknut- everything is well within reach. Or check Your masthead casting, there may be two holes that You could push a pin through. Mount a jaw toggle to that and You have an attachment point for the forestay. Just make sure You have a pin that fits snug through the holes on the masthead casting and also fits the Jaw Toggle. If You want I could go out and take a picture of My masthead then email it to You. Part # for Jaw Toggles Scheaffer 93-65 Alex DJT-10 Have fun with Your project! and feel free to ask questions if you think any of this was helpful. Mark Escovedo M17F/D #103 "AMY" --- cjpacker(a)theofficenet.com wrote: From: "Chris and Jeff Packer" <cjpacker(a)theofficenet.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: M_Boats: mast question Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2006 06:56:35 -0700 Any advice on mounting a cast aluminum tang for a forestay to my aluminum mast. A friend of mine says he always uses stainless steel machine screws and taps the holes into the aluminum mast when mounting hardware. I wondered about corrosion with Stainless and aluminum together. Is there any thread compound to use to help with this? What about pop rivets? Are they strong enough? and would I use aluminum or Stainless rivets? Any comments would be appreciated. Jeff _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _____________________________________________________________ Netscape. Just the Net You Need.

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mast question
by Chris and Jeff Packer 14 Jun '06

14 Jun '06

Any advice on mounting a cast aluminum tang for a forestay to my aluminum mast. A friend of mine says he always uses stainless steel machine screws and taps the holes into the aluminum mast when mounting hardware. I wondered about corrosion with Stainless and aluminum together. Is there any thread compound to use to help with this? What about pop rivets? Are they strong enough? and would I use aluminum or Stainless rivets? Any comments would be appreciated. Jeff

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Just Another M15 Centerboard Story
by Peter Deffenbacher 13 Jun '06

13 Jun '06

Well, I have been reading about all of the near misses of injures, on working on a stuck center board. I would like to add my own story. Setting the scene: I had a stuck center board hanging down out of the slot about about 1/2 inch. The clearance to the carpeted bunk was about 1 inch. I live in a duplex alone with no tenets at the time on the other side. No cell phone in my pocket or a mega phone for that matter. So ... I begin. In my basement garage in the dead of night I wiggled my way past the trailer tire to get at the stuck center board. I was able to get the center board free with a just a few pulls. But I wasn't fast enough to get my left hand pointer finger out of the way before it dropped and trapped it on the carpeted bunk. It didn't hurt too bad but I couldn't move it. No problem I thought. It's only 40 pounds but the entire 40 was on a 1/2 inch square area or less. That is 80 Pounds Per Square Inch or more! As I tried to pull my finger out it felt like the flesh was going to be pulled from the bone. Oh dear! I looked around my garage/shop and there were no tools of any kind within reaching distance, nothing! I laughted at the obsurdity of the whole situation but I didn't want to lay there for 3 days until my girl friend came over and found me there. I finally was able to use my right hand, with all my might, to lift the center board to free that left finger. I still feel lucky that it turned out okay! Peter Peanut M15 618

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