March 2005 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Swim Ladder
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 23 Mar '05

23 Mar '05

Hi All, Any suggestions regarding brand / model number of a good swim ladder. I sort of dislike the idea of one mounted on the stern, however I do suppose for safety sake it's the best place to put one. Any ideas are welcome. She came with one of those very convenient, plastic step, rollup models. Looks great in the bilge, doesn't take up much room but... you cant get out of the water very easily. Thanks, Bill M-17 "Tipperary"

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Sails
by William Emerson 22 Mar '05

22 Mar '05

I'm thinking of buying a barely used International 420 main (P:16.55 and E:6.3 to 7.0) for my M-15 (P:16.83 & E:7.83). Has anyone tried this, and is it a bad idea? If its not a bad idea, does anyone have any ideas about getting the "420" off? -William "Karen Michelle" M-15 Peoria, AZ

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Re: M_Boats: anyone on the list know anything about the . . .
by chbenneck＠juno.com 22 Mar '05

22 Mar '05

Hi Craig, Engines need two thing to run: gasoline and a spark. To check out your engine, you can remove a spark plug, squirt a little diesel starter fluid ( or carburetor cleaner) into the cylinder and give it a try. If it coughs, and tries to run; you've got a spark but no fuel. Half the problem is solved. You have a spark. Next question is then: why isn't the fuel getting into the cylinder? Is fresh fuel in the tank? Is the tank vent open? Is the fuel line petcock open? Is the fuel filter clean? That gets us to the carburetor. Did you leave fuel in the engine last winter? Did you add a fuel preservative? If not, then maybe the main jet in the carburetor is partially clogged and the engine isn't getting enough fuel to keep it running. You can check this idea by closing the choke all the way and trying to start the engine again. If it starts but dies when you open the choke, then it isn't getting enough fuel. You could add some carburetor cleaner to the fuel tank and try and get the engine to run with the choke closed. Once it is running, the carburetor cleaner should start working and clean the main jet. Gradually open the choke till the engine is running properly again If you can get at the carburetor intake and spray carburetor cleaner into the intake, the engine may fire and run. That too, will tell you it's a carburetor problem. Connie

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Re: M_Boats: milk crates
by chbenneck＠juno.com 22 Mar '05

22 Mar '05

Hi Rick, How about cutting a regular square milk crate in half and making one to the size you want? C

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Re: outboard fuel shutoff
by Wilsometer＠aol.com 22 Mar '05

22 Mar '05

Norm, I am guessing your Evinrude 3hp is a 2-stroke engine. There are two schools of thought on running engines dry. In the 'old days' this practice was common--especially on engines that did not have bowl drains on the carb. The thinking was that it was the lesser of evils to get any remaining fuel out prior to storage (2-stroke mix can go bad starting two to three weeks after initial combining of fuel). Some manufacturers even advocated this practice in the owner's manual. The contrary school insists that running the carb dry can cause two potential problems. The first argument is that the engine can, for a brief moment, have inadequate lubrication (assuming two-stroke), as the fuel-oil mix itself is what is doing the lubrication. At first glance, this would seem odd, as you would not think the motor would run any longer than it had fuel/oil mix available. Apparently, as the argument goes, the engine can run on after the oil portion has been exhausted, and when only residual gas vapor is present. If this is true, then there might be a brief time when the rings and bearings are poorly lubricated, and cylinder scuff and/or bearing wear could result. The second argument (and this would be true for both 2 and 4-stroke engines) is that running dry necessarily results in an extreme lean-burn scenario--albeit for a brief time. Lean burn in and of itself would not be a problem save for the fact that it dramatically raises combustion chamber temperatures. The concern is that this can be damaging to valves, valve guides/seals (4-strokes only, obviously), as well as spark plug electrodes/insulators. While I come from a long tradition of run-dry proponents, and have never suffered any engine damage from doing same, I have come around to the opinion that if there is a bowl drain available (and virtually all newer engines have this), I will use that method instead. Scott Your original Message: I have a Evinrude 3hp on my Monty 15. I have been running the fuel out of carb when shutting it down. I recently read in the manual for it that you should not run the fuel out on shut off. The recent post discussed varnished forming in bowls and jets with fuel left in. Any opinions on this? Norm M15 #172

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anyone on the list know anything about the . . .
by Rick Langer 22 Mar '05

22 Mar '05

Craig, If you're getting spark to the plug, put a little gas in the cylinder through the plug hole, repalce the plug and try to start it. If it fires up, but quickly dies then you have a gas delivery problem, like Scott, Tod and others have mentioned. If it doesn't fire up I would suspect you have no or very poor compression. Reduced compression is usually cased by a ring problem (as in broken or frozen to the piston) or a stuck valve (as in stuck open). You can check for no compression by trying to plug the spark plug hole with your finger while pulling the starter. It will be obvious that's there no compression if your fingure is not pushed off the hole. Checking for poor compression requires a gauge. My guess is you would need 40 psi to run, but probably should have 80-90 psi to run well. I would hope that the repair shop would have done this simple test, but other than Harvey mentioning compression, I haven't heard any mention of it. I've been trying to nurse back to health a beautiful Troy Built roto tiller that someone neglected to store properly and it has poor compression (45-50 psi). I've been soaking the cylinder with Marvel Mystery Oil for two years now, to try to free up the rings. It runs, but not very well. I probably should just replace the enginge, for it has gas delivery issues as well, but I got the tiller for free and I'm being cheap. Anyway, not running an engine is the worst thing for it and most of these problems are caused by the way they are stored. Rick Langer M15 #337

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Outboard fuel shutoff
by Norm Bundek 22 Mar '05

22 Mar '05

I have a Evinrude 3hp on my Monty 15. I have been running the fuel out of carb when shutting it down. I recently read in the manual for it that you should not run the fuel out on shut off. The recent post discussed varnished forming in bowls and jets with fuel left in. Any opinions on this? Norm M15 #172

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Lyle Hess Balboa on ebay
by Rick Langer 22 Mar '05

22 Mar '05

There's an interesting boat on ebay, item 4536483680. It has two sinks, two ways to steer and two engines. The fact that it has an inboard diesel and an outboard is understandable, but check out the tiller and wheel steering. I wonder if one system overrides the other. Besides this oddity, it looks like a nice boat, a little big. How about that little heater, is it diesel? Rick Langer M15 #337 50 degrees on the Hudon today

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Re: FW: M_Boats: Rudder pins...
by Frederick M Berthrong 22 Mar '05

22 Mar '05

Just an aside .... The trick to drilling stainless is to keep it wet while drilling either by a small stream of water from a garden sprayer for large parts or by being submerged in a water bath for small parts. (Some friends and I built a 55' x 14' houseboat for Lake Powell completely out of stainless ... just imagine how many holes were drilled! Once this trick was learned we never tried to drill stainless without water.) Fred Dulce M17 #300 On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 07:18:43 -0600 Howard Audsley <haudsley(a)tranquility.net> writes: > Now that sounds like advice to follow....and probably easier to > machine as > well. I know the stainless is a bitch on equipment. Just drilling > the holes > in 1/2" stainless could take one or more drill bits each hole. > BTW...stick > with McMaster Carr. They have about 8 to 10 versions of bronze and > bronze > alloy rods in 1/2' stock....in both 3' and 6' lengths. Both 655 > alloy > silicon bronze and two versions of aluminum bronze (630 and 954). A > 3' x > 1/2" 655 bronze rod was priced at $22.54 each. The 630 aluminum > bronze was > $35.48 for the same length. Disclaimer, I don't own em, I just use > em and > have always always gotten excellent service from them. > > Howard > > > > > You know what works even better than 316? Any good bronze, but the > easiest > to get would be silicone bronze, probably. Best that I know of is > aluminum > bronze; it's stiffer and stronger than stainless. > > The stainless pintles, slining on bronze instead of stainless, get > slicker > and slicker with use, which is the opposite of > stainless/stainless.. > > Jerry > jerrymontgomery.org > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Howard Audsley" <haudsley(a)tranquility.net> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Sent: Monday, March 21, 2005 7:05 AM > Subject: M_Boats: Rudder pins... > > > > If the rod in question is the straight pin 1/2" rods, with holes > drilled > in > > them, you can make them yourself. I would get 316 stainless rod > from > > McMaster-Carr: > > > > http://www.mcmaster.com/ > > > > I would cut them to length and would make at least two. One should > always > > have a spare rudder pin on board. The rudder will raise and lower > easily > on > > a straight pin and almost not at all on a bent one. Use 316 > stainless. > More > > corrosion resistant and easier to cut and drill holes, but may > bend more > > easily. > > > > Howard > > > > On 3/18/05 8:31 AM, "Wayne Yeargain" <saltydog(a)ev1.net> wrote: > > > > > Are you are talking about the steel rod that holds the standard > M17 > > > rudder on ? > > > I just bought a 3/8" Dia. rod at Home Depot and cut it to > length, about > 32" > > > long I think. > > > Drilled some small holes each end for cotter pins to retain it. > > > > > > Wayne > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: <TOMMYVAL(a)aol.com> > > > To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > > > Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 7:35 AM > > > Subject: Re: M_Boats: A little advice & info please? > > > > > > > > >> M Listers > > >> > > >> I need to replace my rudder post on a 1993 M 17 and was > wondering if > > >> anyone > > >> had any ideas where I may be able to purchase one or have one > made. Bob > > >> has > > >> contacted the original manufacturer (Thank you Bob!!) to see > about > > >> getting a > > >> replacement but so far has had no luck. > > >> > > >> Hopefully the manufacturer will come through but I'm starting > to get > > >> behind > > >> the eight ball and would like to see what other options are > available. > > >> Any and all thoughts are appreciated. > > >> > > >> Thanks > > >> > > >> Gary > > >> _______________________________________________ > > >> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > >> > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > ------ End of Forwarded Message > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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Adjustable Motor Mount
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 22 Mar '05

22 Mar '05

Hi all, Finally got my tow vehicle. I will be picking up "Tip" in the next couple of weeks and bringing her down to SF. A little practice on the strings and maybe, just maybe I'll get in a little sail time (nice concept). Some time ago I was considering an adjustable motor mount. At the time, someone mentioned a good brand. I printed and saved that post and filed it away so as to never loose it and of course have forgotten where it's filed. Questions: 1. What brand, and model number to use to make sure I've got a real solid mount? 2. Is the short shaft the correct model of OB to use? 3. Is an aluminum backing plate recommended when installing the mount? Thanks, Bill M-17 "Tipperary #496

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