March 2005 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

North Channel Cruise
by htmills＠bright.net 02 Nov '06

02 Nov '06

I'm planning on a two week North Channel Cruise in mid June. I'll probably drive from Ohio to Tobermory, take the Chi-Cheemaun ferry over to South Baymouth (Manitoulin Island), and then drive to Little Current (Manitoulin Island) on Saturday June 5th. I might end up taking the ferry on the morning of the 6th depending on how late I hit the road. At the present time I'm thinking of making a general counter clockwise spin around the North Channel, launching at Spider Bay Marina in Little Current and going north and then west to the Bustard Islands and west and then crossing south to the west end of Manitoulin and returning east again. Of course, all plans are subject to the weather and whims of the person at the helm! Mid June will probably be a bit ahead of the crowd and still kinda nippy. There is some info on the area at: http://www.continuouswave.com/north-channel/ and here: http://www.continuouswave.com/sail-logs/ If anyone else is planning on a trip up there, perhaps we can meet up! Tod

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M-12 class association?
by htmills＠bright.net 11 Nov '05

11 Nov '05

I was browsing through a book I had bought thirty years ago and it lists some one-design class association secretaries. At that time, the M12 class association secretary was one Nancy Kilpatrick of Newport Beach, CA. Never knew such a thing existed. Tod

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Re: M_Boats: Re:OB Problem . .
by LUDLOWD2＠aol.com 24 Jul '05

24 Jul '05

A couple of points. A motor need fuel, air, spark, and timing to run. A weak ignition will spark a plug in open air but not under compresion (higher resistance across the air gap). The best way to check is the starting fluid test. I've also run an outboard on propane from a blow torch by having somene hold the unlit torch next to the carb air inlet while I cranked the OB. This verified a fuel delivery problem. Good Luck Don

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Re: M_Boats: more new stuff on the photo site...
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 17 Jun '05

17 Jun '05

In a message dated 1/22/2005 12:38:23 AM Pacific Standard Time, bobo4u(a)qwest.net writes: Sorry to respond to list about this, but I don't know who codes the site. Hi Bob, Funtigo does it all. It's quite easy to use their site as they made it that way. If I had to do as you suggest... it wouldn't get done as I don't posses those skills. Now about funtigo... There is a possibility they can change something to assist those with other than an MS browser. However, I'm not the person to suggest whatever is needed as again, I dont posses those skills. Maybe you could write to Funtigo on the MSOG behalf, explain what their situation is and get a technical answer. That, after translation, we could all understand. As for me, I never heard of Foxfire or Safari before. I've always used Internet Explorer and don't know any better. You would be doing the group a favor if you can get an answer. Go to their main site at www.funtigo.com and at the lower left is a "contact us" link. If you want to get an idea of how they make it for their clients. You can sign up for a free trial funtigo membership. Thanks for any help, Bill

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New on the Photo Site...
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 01 Apr '05

01 Apr '05

Hi All, Center Board Removal. Bill Sylvesters, M-17 "Endelig" is featured << http://www.funtigo.com/MSOG?b=233978&c=1789789&p=start >> Bill did a great job of saving money while being pretty safe in his methods. I was going to get a bit specific about the final removal, until I found there are several variations (screw, bolt or pin). Enjoy the photos, Bill M-17 "Tipperary"

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regarding CB removal
by nbundek 31 Mar '05

31 Mar '05

I removed my M15 CB several months ago. I used two "Farmer Jacks" available from Harbor Freight. Each one is capable of raising 3 tons. I could have made the job easier by buying four but tried to save a few bucks. They were very efficient for my M15 and should easily handle a M17. This allowed me to keep my M15 high enough to remove the trailer and CD. I used 12x12x1" cement patio steps as the supporting columns after arriving at the desired height. A bow and stern 4x6" beam with a Styrofoam cradle sculpted to each end held the M off the trailer for three months. I had the entire process on my digital camera but lost all of the pictures. Norm M15 #172

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Re: M_Boats: Centerboard
by Frederick M Berthrong 31 Mar '05

31 Mar '05

Bill, I like the stories of other CB removals and replacements a lot better than mine. However, since Dulce (M17 #300) was parked in front of our home and I needed to de-trailer her so that I could chip and repaint the trailer and get to all parts of the bottom of the boat. That process took about three weeks and I couldn't find a forklift of mechanical hoist that would sit still that long. So, I built an overhead beam from which I suspended the fore part of Dulce and cribbed the back. The overhead rigging was necessary to remove the trailer. Once the trailer was removed I cribbed up the bow section to take the stress off the rope sling. To remove the CB the bottom of the fixed keel has to be about two feet off the ground. To raise the boat I had to raise the entire support structure. This I did using car jacks and wedges. I know it sounds like hard and tedious work but it actually went very well. I would first lift one side a couple of inches and then crib under that side, then lift the other two inches higher than the other and crib ... etc. It probably took a couple of hours to get her high enough and at no time was it unstable since I was cribbing with short lengths of 2 X 4. Once high enough, the stop bolt was removed and I lowered the CB to the ground and then with most of the weight on the ground (mine is a cast iron CB weighing about 170 lbs), I removed the pivot bolt and lowered that end to the ground, tilted it over on to a automobile creeper and moved it out from under the boat on that and then moved it around on a small hand truck. While the CB weighs 170 lbs I don't believe I ever actually lifted more than 50-60 lbs. I put it back in reverse order having triple coated it with a two-part urethane paint system made by Porter Paints. Putting it back in was probably the most difficult part of the process because I had to line up the pivot bolt hole with the keel hole while supporting about 50 lbs of weight but it really didn't take that much time (5 - 10 minutes max). Actually, I got pretty good at it since I had to do it about four times because I forgot to do this or that. A picture of the boat on its cradle with the overhead beam is on "That Bill Guy's" picture site ... under Dulce. Fred M17 #300 - Dulce On Thu, 31 Mar 2005 09:57:09 EST BILLAMICASR(a)aol.com writes: > Thanks to eveyone who responded to my Center Board question. In a few > days > I'll put a set of pics on the Photo Site about CB removal. > Bill > M-17 > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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Re: M_Boats: Centerboard
by Woodsybill＠aol.com 31 Mar '05

31 Mar '05

My M-17 is a 1975 vintage. I removed centerboard a couple of years ago and refurbished it. The boat was lifted on hoist with two nylon straps. The board was removed by removing two stainless steel bolts-- pivot and stop. The bolts and nuts were recessed even with surface of centerboard and were not covered over and easy to remove with a socket wrench. The stop bolt was slightly bent so it was replaced. Both bolts were 5/16", as I remember. I also replaced 1/4" pennant line. I tried 5/16" line ( thinking bigger was better) but it made too large a bowline knot at the shackle and would bind in the centerboard trunk. Bill K. Half Monty

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Re: M_Boats: Centerboard
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 31 Mar '05

31 Mar '05

Thanks to eveyone who responded to my Center Board question. In a few days I'll put a set of pics on the Photo Site about CB removal. Bill M-17

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Re: M_Boats: L.E.D. "Retrofit"
by Larry E Yake 31 Mar '05

31 Mar '05

Craig, You can get portable LED navigation lights through Cabelas. The come on a C clamp mounting bracket, use 4 AA batteries, last up to 100 hours on a set of batteries, and cost $22 each. I found them in their catalog, but I'm sure they would be on the web site, too. www.cabelas.com Larry On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 18:17:22 -0500 "Craig F. Honshell" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> writes: > > After reading about Bill's Ankerlight (excellent link, Bill, thanks > for sharing), I > started wondering: > > Could the portable "dinghy nav lights", such as those previously > available through > West Marine by Aqua Signal (and now available through West Marine in > some brand I > don't recognize), be retrofit with L.E.D. bulbs? > > These AA-battery powered dinghy nav lights with mounting bracket > options are good > backups . . . But the standard bulbs go through batteries quickly. > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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