Group:
In light of the upcoming San Juan M-Boat cruise as well as some previous
requests for more info, I am including below a treatise originally intended for
the MSOG website (did not end up being posted).
It is lengthy, so my apologies to those not interested in this region.
In a message dated 10/27/03 9:31:57 PM, msog(a)msog.org writes:
>Scott,
>
>I'm putting together a web page of the posts of your BC trips that Connie
>(I think) alluded to. I couldn't find how long the trip(s) was/were.
>Thought it might help give perspective to how much you took along for how
>long.
>Can you give me an idea of an average length of trip?
Sorry for the delay. Just got back from the San Juans last night.
We have done several trips now--most are one to three weeks in length. We
are firm believers in not forcing schedules in these waters (on account of both
safety and flexibility). You did not ask for them, but I am including some
sample itineraries for the region. Also, I have interjected some
updates/comments/hints to the archival posting below:
1) San Jaun Islands:
One week minimum starting from either Annacortes or Sidney, BC (you can take
the daily international ferry from Annacortes to Sidney). There are good
provisioning and shoreside entertainment/activities in Friday and Roche Harbors,
but to escape the summer crowds, we like Stuart and Sucia Islands best. One
must Clear customs in either Roche or Friday Harbors if coming from Sidney.
Beware fast building fog and live by the current tables/current atlas. If need
be, you can bail out at one of several islands served by ferry (walk-on to
either interisland or to/from Annacortes) and retrieve your tow vehicle/trailer.
For those with limited timeframes, you can ferry and launch from one or more
of the larger islands closest to your preferred cruising grounds.
2) Sidney BC and Southern Gulf Islands:
One week minimum starting from Sidney or nearby harbors (harbours!!), or
could be tacked onto a San Juan Island trip (clear Canadian Customs in Bedwell
Harbor on South Pender, or in Sidney). This area is often sunny when the San
Juans are fogged-in, and offers great trips in protected waters with line-of-site
navigation, plenty of protected anchorages, and harbours/shoreside
attractions. Our favorite diversions are a trip down the Saanich Inlet to Brentwood Bay
for special backdoor (dinghy dock) landing for Butchart Gardens (great on
summer evenings), Ganges on Saltspring for the farmers and art markets, and
several small anchorages such as Annette Inlet on Prevost Island, Clam bay between
Thetis and Kuper Islands, etc. As with any of these trips, you still have to
live by the current charts, and there are a few potentially dangerous passes
(only if you insist on ignoring tidal and current information).
3) Princess Louisa Inlet (via Egmont):
Five days to one week (not including ferry travel and driving time from
Vancouver). One of the 'Holy Grails' of Northwest cruising. Descriptions such as
'Yosemite flooded with seawater' don't do it justice. Truly inspiring, but a
bit of work to get to/from. Closest starting point is Egmont, BC--a mere
hamlet on the north intersection of Sechelt and Jervis inlets. There is a ramp
(if you can call it that) at the Egmont Marina Resort just north of 'Downtown
Egmont.' It is a gravel/rock affair behind the restaurant, and is of quite
shallow angle. I used my tongue extension and still had my truck's rear tires in
the water. Watch your ties, and use big fenders--the current that rips
through this harbor is astounding. After you ready/launch your boat, reward
yourself with a hike to Sechelt (aka 'Skookumchuck') Rapids at max ebb or flood. The
15+ knot current and 8-10' standing waves/overfalls will serve to drive home
the importance of timing your passages at slack water (again, you should be
safe if you adhere to the current charts--and mind the daylight savings time
differences where applicable).
The trip to Princess Louisa is 35nm +/- ONE WAY. You MUST carry enough fuel
for at least 80nm of motoring, as there are no refueling opportunities once
you leave Egmont. Don't count on sailing. If it happens, great, but you are in
a series of fjords, and the winds are fluky at best. You will likely get a
few good moments each day, but expect to motor most of the time.
You will need to plan this trip long in advance, as you can only enter the
Malibu Rapids (gateway to the actual Princess Louisa Inlet) at slack water
(preferably high slack). Do not try to enter at any other time. It may look like
a fun thrill ride, but is very dangerous on account of low buoyancy in the
frothy water of rapids, eddies, and whirlpools. Your best bet is to schedule the
trip up-inlet for a day with a high slack water in the late afternoon.
Arrive a little early and wait outside the rapids. Schedule your exit for a
morning high slack. There are no real protected anchorages between Malibu Rapids
and Egmont, so make sure the weather forecast is favorable prior to setting out
in either direction.
Once inside, prepared to be amazed by towering mountains (snowcapped early in
summer season, cascading waterfalls (some thousands of feet), and amazing
geology. It will take a while to get all the way to the head of the inlet. If
you are running late, you can tuck in behind Macdonald Island to port about
half way in. At the head of the inlet is Chatterbox falls--a huge roaring
waterfall in most years. There is a long BC Marine Park dock just to starboard of
the falls. If you don't have a dinghy, you might want to tie up and stay here.
If you do have a dinghy, you can anchor/stern-tie a distance from the
madding crowds on the dock. You need the dinghy here because the water is
incredibly deep with precious little shelf for anchoring. The idea is to drop your bow
anchor and row ashore with your FLOATING line (I use Regatta Lite). Wrap
this around a tree or rock well above the high tide line, and return with the
bitter end to your boat (it helps to have someone on board paying out line).
This serves the dual purpose of keeping you from dragging off of the shelf and
keeping the boat securely fastened and ready for an emergency departure (release
bitter end and go).
You can anchor directly off of Chatterbox falls, and the resulting flow
should hold you bow-to. I tried this once in a bigger boat, and have to say that
the deafening noise got to me after a while. Also, I have seen boats anchored
here overcome by a really strong up-inlet wind.
I favor the north side of the inlet for anchoring/shore-tie. It is a short
dinghy paddle to the dock where you will find water (non-potable--use your
purifier), onshore toilets (primitive), and a trailhead to the falls and a more
extensive hike to the old Trapper's Cabin. I would recommend the hike to the
cabin--not so much because of the structure--but for the view. It is a
strenuous hike/climb. At some points, you must climb tree roots to keep going, and
the trail is often muddy and washed out, but you will feel on top of the world
when you arrive. Take your camera. Your boat will be the tiny speck in the
stunning bay below. Oh, and watch for bears. They frequent the upper trails.
If you have time on the return trip, you can add a nice two day side trip to
Harmony Islands in Hotham Sound before returning to Egmont.
4) Desolation Sound:
One to two weeks starting from Lund (the northern terminus of highway 101).
Lund is a great starting point for exploring the entire Desolation sound area.
It is a charming little town that has been going through fits and starts for
as long as I can remember. There is an excellent (new as of late '90's)
launch ramp, and secure parking for your tow vehicle/trailer at Lund Automotive &
Outboard (call ahead to reserve space). Just don't leave any food in your
vehicle, as bears have come for visits. Another cautionary note: DO NOT TRY TO
TURN RIGHT FROM THE RAMP WITH YOUR MAST UP!! I speak from experience here. It
is possible that they have removed that low power cable since my last visit,
but then again I think it provided endless entertainment for the locals.
Once launched, the harbormaster will find you a place to tie-up. Get used to
rafting, as that is the primary way of accommodating the high summer traffic.
At one harbor, I was rafted out four boats from the dock. Believe me, you
don't want a three hundred pound fisherman crossing your M15 in the middle of
the night! Usually they can find a solo spot for such small/shallow draft
boats as the Montgomery.
Head north from Lund into the Thulin passage between the mainland and the
Copeland (aka 'Ragged') Island group. If the conditions permit, find a little
cove and explore these beautiful little rock islands. You might be surprised to
find the water to be quite warm here. We escaped the summer heat by swimming
between two small islands.
Continue North around Sarah Point, and take a right down into Malaspina
Inlet. Head for Grace Harbour and grab an anchorage on the starboard side of the
bay (beware the covering rock mid-bay). This is a delightful bay. We have
twice been there when the jellyfish are in. Millions upon millions of these
beautiful, translucent creatures drift through the clear waters. At night, we
would sit in the cockpit and watch the stars above and below. The jellyfish
activate the phosphorescence in the water, and the resulting 'stars' in the water
transform your little boat into a spaceship adrift in the heavens! There is a
trailhead to a small lake at the east end of the bay. Watch/smell for bears.
Next, head back out of Malaspina Inlet and go east toward Tenedos Bay. This
protected anchorage is a great place to tuck into for a day of land-based
exploration and fresh water swimming in Unwin Lake. I favor the shallow anchorage
on the North side of the island, as close to the drying bar as possible
(other boats won't dare venture in here, but with the M15, it is not a worry). The
trailhead to Unwin is on the east side of the bay.
Upon exiting Tenedos, don't try and do a shortcut to the north--there is a
sizable rock out from shore. Head North around Otter Island (alternately, you
can shoot the narrow channel between Otter and the mainland if conditions/tides
are correct, but be careful) and head for Prideaux Haven.
Prideaux Haven is supposed to be the quintessential Desoloation Sound
destination, and it beautiful. It is also, alas, one of the most crowded
destinations in the whole of BC. This is where you tend to see the highest concentration
of mega-yachts. While there several years ago, there was a modest 200+
footer anchored right outside Eveleigh Island. After dinner, the guests sauntered
up to the upper deck to board the helicopter for an evening tour of the
surrounding mountains and fjords. I think you get my drift. I still suggest
spending a night in either Melanie or Laura Coves, as both have shoal entrances that
keep the monster boats out. This area is now a 'no-discharge zone.' In the
'old days', it was not unusual to see a parade of feces float by while you
were eating dinner. This should at least happen with less frequency. I would
reserve my swimming for later.
After you have had your fill of the high life, head for the more sane waters
of Roscoe Bay on the east side of West Redonda Island (across the Homfray
Channel from Prideaux). You will want to time your arrival to clear the bar near
the entrance to the inner bay. With an M15 or M17, you likely won't have to
wait for a full high tide. I usually take the dinghy ahead to sound it out.
At full high tide, you can easily get in/out.
Traditionally, I anchor on the north side of the inner bay just a little past
the drying bar. Again, most boats don't consider this due to draft, and seem
to concentrate at the head of the bay (west end). Take your dinghy to the
trailhead, and do the short hike to Black Lake. Keep going beyond the obvious
end of the trail. This stunningly clear lake is flanked by perfect south facing
(read warm) slabs of rock that slope down to the water. The water is not
always warm, but it feels good to get rid of the salt accumulated while in
Prideaux. We usually waste a day swimming and lounging around on the solar-heated
rocks--usually in complete solitude. Black Lake is also a great place to
watch/hear loons.
>From Roscoe Bay, you can head back out the Homfray Channel to Refuge Cove on
the Southwest tip of West Redonda Island (provisions), and if you still have
time, head further north up the Lewis Channel for Teakerne Arm (more great
swimming and a waterfall).
Points north of Desolation Sound tend to be less crowded, but fuel,
provisioning, and water are harder to find.
The following are excerpts from old post with some new information
interjected [in brackets]:
[One could also reference my specific equipment choices in the M15 weight
section of the MSOG.]
I can give you an idea of how we provisioned for our specific trip, but you
will likely need to come up with a plan based on your specific itinerary. Some
of our choices reflect our specific cruising philosophy. We do not like to
have a cluttered boat (especially not one so small!), so we looked for areas to
trim down. We wanted to have some meals that did not require cooking, so we
adjusted our menu accordingly. For meals that did need cooking, we tried to come
up with one pot recipes to simplify and expedite the process. We cook on a one
burner Origo absorption alcohol stove (Origo 1500). I can't say enough good
things about this stove. It is simple, safe (unlike pressurized alcohol),
economical, and fast. We used slightly more than a quart of fuel in three weeks. We
stow the stove in our dishpan in the locker under the port berth.
[All I will say regarding the recent (and periodic) discourse on stoves is
that I have used just about everything out there over the years, and for my
money, the Origo is as close to perfect as it gets. One recent objection is that
spilled fuel could ignite a spread an invisible flame, but the Origo fuel
canister is designed so that it cannot spill. The generic objection that alcohol
is not hot enough has not proven true in my experience. One quart of water
boils in 6-8 minutes at sea level. I believe that this is at least closely
comparable to the other alternatives. I think those objecting to the Origo based
on their or someone else's anecdotal experiences with PRESSURIZED alcohol
stoves owe it to themselves to at least try it.]
We decided that we did not want to be bothered with a big ice box and ice.
Last year was so hot in BC that ice would not have lasted long anyway. We
carried a small collapsible, soft-sided cooler that we would use occasionally. One
of the beauties of cruising in BC is the ability to provision en-route. This is
especially true in the Gulf Islands, where you are rarely more than an hour
or two from shoreside stores. In Jervis inlet and Desolation Sound, the
opportunities are fewer, but you can still stock up in a few locations. We bought
most of our nonperishable food before leaving the states, though there are
excellent stores in almost every good size BC town. We relied on the local stores
for produce, bread products, and good conversation. We liked the idea of
supporting the folks along the way, and were usually rewarded with good local
information. As an occasional treat, we ate at some of the many waterfront
restaurants. Don't be surprised if you are invited on board other boats for meals.
People are fascinated by the little M boats, and we had many offers.
[With few exceptions, there are even more choices for provisioning and eating
ashore than when this was written. Princess Louisa and Desolation Sound are
still mostly or completely devoid of stores, so plan accordingly. The major
islands of the San Juans and Gulf Islands are replete with everything you can
imagine. There is now even a West Marine 'Express' store in Friday Harbor, and
a full-blown West store in Sidney.]
Our menu was heavily weighted towards "convenience" or partially prepared
foods on this trip. In addition, my wife and I are both vegetarians, so our
choices did not have to include a meat dish. Breakfasts would consist of bagels and
creme cheese or instant oatmeal if we felt like dragging out the stove. We
carried a few quarts of Rice milk in those non-refrigerated Tetra-Pak cartons
for the occasional bowl of dry cereal (Mueslix type--more compact). Lunches
would usually be some combination of fresh fruit (obtained en route, or before
setting out for four or five days), some kind of sandwich (fake meat and tofu
cheese--lasted four days without problems), and cookies.
Dinners were usually cooked, though we had some contingency dinners that did
not require cooking in case of bad weather or general laziness. We
particularly liked the precooked Indian meals called "Tasty Bites" that come in
plastic/foil pouches that need neither freezing or refrigeration. These can be eaten
without warming, though we chose to warm the pouch in a pot of hot water, and
then use the same water to cook the couscous (very quick).
Other meals included Macaroni with canned vegetables tossed in, various rice
creations that incorporated whatever we had lying around, etc. Snacks were
cookies, Clif bars, fruit, etc. Boxed juices (single serving) were also nice, and
relatively easy to stow.
[With the advent of the 'Tetra-Pak' (foil-lined boxes) not requiring
refrigeration, we have moved away from cans wherever possible. Many soups as well as
soy and rice milk brands now emloy this packing. When consumed, the boxes
fold flat to take up less space]
Bert Felton, a former M15 owner, and his wife sailed in tandem with us. We
would often raft up and share our various creations. Some were certainly better
than others, but everything seemed to taste good after a hard day of sailing
(or motoring as was more often the case last year), swimming, hiking, and
rowing around in the dinghy.
As for fresh water, we had two systems. I bought a 3 gallon Todd polyethylene
water tank (West model # 486639) that fits perfectly beneath the cockpit
floor and behind the centerboard pennant "tube." I then plumbed a fill hose to the
port lazarette, a vent hose that goes way up into the port coaming, and a
long clear vinyl hose with an outboard motor priming bulb on the end that is also
stowed in the port lazarette. This system worked beautifully. We would fill
the tank before each leg of the trip (usually at a fuel dock or govt. dock),
and if we were careful, the water would last for at least four to five days.
Whenever we needed fresh water, we would simply open the lazarette, grab the
hose, and squeeze-pump whatever was needed. The hose was long enough to reach
anywhere in the cockpit, so we could rinse dishes over the side or wash down the
cockpit, outboard, etc. The fill hose made refilling as simple as pulling out
the 1 1/2" hose (had a cap on the end) out of the lazarette, and either filling
by hose or collapsible bucket.
In addition to the 3 gallon tank, we carried about 8 quart bottles of
drinking water that we were certain was pure. Many of the places we went (Princess
Louisa, Desolation Sound, etc.) had water available, but such water was
accompanied by signs indicating that it should first be purified (was usually surface
water from just upstream). We carried a small water purifier for this purpose.
In the old days, we would just row over to a waterfall with a canvas bucket
for all of our water needs. These days, it seems wise to take some precautions.
[I have since replaced all of my potable water containers with the newer
generation of Nalgene Lexan (available REI)--they don't carry a plastic taste. We
also use the 'Camel-Bak' or 'Platypus' type hydration packs (with hose), and
find these to be very convenient.]
We devised systems for stowing the food and other provisions so that we would
not have to tear the boat apart every time we needed a snack. Each morning,
we would move snacks and water bottles to the starboard lazarette (shallow one
on our boat) for easy access while under way. The rest of the food was stowed
in duffels by meal. We stowed these duffels aft of the starboard berth. This
made it easier to see what we had, and made meal times less of a hassle. We
used one pot, two plates, two bowls, and two spoons. The dishpan doubled as stove
storage box, and we used those new fangled H20 Sun Towels (fast drying for
drying dishes).
[I have retired my old H20 Sun Towels to boat washing/drying, and have
replaced them with the new generation of 'Pack Towl', which is much softer and nicer
to use]
Whenever possible (was possible almost every day), we filled the Solar Shower
and put it out on the foredeck. We showered almost every night--almost a
necessity last year. Before the trip, Bert made a mosquito netting cover for the
open companionway hatch. This proved to be one of our most useful pieces of
equipment. It uses shock cord to hold the netting in place, and can be quickly
removed and replaced for midnight trips to the porta-potti (kept at the aft end
of the cockpit at night). Speaking of the porta-potti, we used it sparingly.
At many of the BC Marine Parks (get a map of them in advance!), there are
outhouses on shore. We rowed ashore whenever possible. Occasionally, we would row
the PP holding tank to one of the outhouses for emptying, but with judicious
use, we found we could go 4 to 5 days. Don't forget to fill the Porta Potti
fresh water tank when you fill your domestic supply.
[An increasing number of BC Marine parks are now 'no-discharge zones', so
don't dump your waste into these otherwise prisitne harbours and bays. In US
waters, discharge is strictly prohibited in all of the areas mentioned.]
Fuel for the outboard is a primary concern when cruising these waters. It
would be nice if you could sail all of the time, but if like us, you have a
limited vacation window, you will do a lot of motoring. In some areas such as
Prince of Whales reach, the winds cannot be relied on. If you are going to do the
Princess Louisa trip, you need to have fuel for at least 80 miles of motoring.
We carried a tempo three gallon fuel tank plus three one gallon Rubbermaid
tanks. You may need more depending on your powerplant and the conditions. We have
a Honda 2HP LS outboard, and I based our consumption on my experience with
this motor. Refueling underway became something of a ritual. Fortunately, I had
rigged up a system to address this prior to the trip. I purchased a Tempo fuel
line assembly (includes hose and pump bulb) and attached this to the three
gallon Tempo tank. On the end of this hose I placed a brass fuel shutoff valve.
On the other side of this valve, I attached a short length of hose. This
system allowed me to refuel while underway by removing the cap and squeeze-pumping
in the needed amount of gas. I was pleased with how well this worked. Bert
tried to devise a system that allowed fueling without removing the cap, but no
matter what he tried, the fuel would squirt out of the cap vent.
[I still think that this Tempo tank/bulb pump/hose-end shutoff valve
refueling system for internal tanks is the best for this kind of cruising. While the
recycled oil container idea (from Connie, I believe) might be ideal for short
trips, we are talking about a carrying a lot of fuel for cruising of this
nature. Furthermore, I was reminded of another reason why this system comes in
handy when I boarded a Washington State Ferry last week. There are now large
signs at most ferry terminals prohibiting the carrying of gasoline in cans.
With my tank/pump system, I pump any unused fuel directly into the truck (another
advantage of a four-stroke). My friend was once required to fill all of his
empty gas cans with water at the terminal--they are serious about this!]
Question: where do you store your gas cans? I have been keeping my gas out of
the lazarettes by using a plastic eggcrate type box in the aft end of the
cockpit. Your re-fueling system confirms an idea I had been toying with. Glad to
hear it actually works. One more question: What kind of dinghy do you use?
For this trip, I kept the cans in the very aft part of the cockpit (under the
tiller). If I am remembering correctly, the Tempo 3 gallon fit perfectly in a
transverse orientation (read sideways!), and the other tanks lined up
perfectly in front of those.
[I still keep the fuel in the aft portion of the cockpit while motoring.
When cooking, I move it to the dinghy]
As for the dinghy, I bought a West marine RU-260 back in 1997 intending to
use it with a Falmouth Cutter that I had my eye on. I got an incredible deal on
it because it was a 1995 model, and West had switched from Force 4 to Zodiac
as the supplier of the "West" brand dinghies and sportboats. It is, however,
similar to the current Zodiac made "West" RU-260. The latter has a pram style
bow instead of the v-bow mine has, but both are hard transom, wood slat floor,
8'6" dinghies.
I am very happy with mine. The four of us rowed all over while in BC (Bert's
old Achilles developed a fatal leak). My wife adopted the dinghy as hers, and
would disappear for hours while Bert and I discussed the merits of various M
15 improvements.
If I were to buy another dinghy, and anticipated only two passengers, I would
take a very close look a the Bombard AX-MINI (see 1999 West Master Catalog,
page 179). While it would be possible to roll/stow the RU-260 on an M15, it
sure would not be easy. The AX-MINI is a little lighter and smaller. We towed the
dinghy everywhere (used Regatta Lite line from New England Ropes/West--it
floats!). It might have slowed us down a bit, but you use the dinghy so much up
there that a little speed penalty becomes and acceptable tradeoff (Almost every
anchorage is a combo bow anchor/stern shore-tie, and thus you spend a lot of
time rowing ashore).
[There are now numerous alternatives and new models including the new
inflatable 'hard' floor models that store more compactly.]
Some other updates/info:
1) It is law in BC that mariners must carry current charts for the area where
you will be navigating. You can get the BC Hydrographic Chart Catalog from
West Marine, or directly from BC Hydrographics. Consider the 'bundled' Small
Craft Chart books/packets for certain areas.
2) An understanding of tides and currents are critical in NW waters. Get the
appropriate BC Hydrographic Current Charts and corresponding Washburne
current tables well in advance, and study them. Make sure to mind any time
differences/adjustments (for example, some do not correct for daylight savings time).
3) You will want a dinghy light enough to carry up long, gently sloping
beaches (above the high tide line), and light enough to carry over sharp rocks,
etc. A dinghy becomes something of a necessity in some areas for stern-shore
ties and just getting ashore in areas with no docks.
4) Engines: There has been considerable discussion on the selection of
appropriate outboards for the M-boats. I am loathe to step on anyone's toes, but
in my humble opinion, the best outboard for Northwest cruising is a four-stroke
of sufficient horsepower to punch through chop, currents, and efficient
enough to make some of these longer trips without becoming a fuel barge (and for
the previously stated fuel transfer/ferry issues). For me (and considering what
is currently available), this means a minimum of a Honda 2hp/four stroke
(preferably long shaft), or the Yamaha 2.5hp four stroke (only available as a
short shaft right now). Unfortunately, neither choice (nor any other
manufacturer) offers an integral charging system in this HP range.
For the M17, I would think that a minimum of 4hp would be advisable. I
really like the new Yamaha 4hp/four stroke for its light weight, but the Tohatsu
based 4/5/6 HP/4-stroke (the Nissan, Mercury, and Tohatsu are identical) offer
optional charging, which I strongly advocate. Also, the Yamaha and Tohatsu 4/5
are available with an internal tank AND a provision to hook up an external
tank directly. The Honda 5 is still a tried/true model as well.
I am not arguing that higher HP engines are essential for everyone, but I
know that I have found the 2HP Honda just adequate on the M15 in deteriorating
conditions. If it were made, I would go with a 3-3.5hp long shaft four stroke
that weighed under 35 lbs (maybe someday!). For those considering 2HP motors
on the M17 (exactly twice the displacement, and proportionately more wetted
area than the M15), consider that this might be fine to get you to and from the
dock, and for small lake/bay use, but I think you would find it sadly lacking
for longer trips in bigger waters (i.e., Coastal, Great Lakes, Pacific
northwest, etc.).
5) Boom tent/Dodger/weather canvas: As you likely know, the Pacific
Northwest is not known for its continued dry, sunny weather. We have been remarkably
fortunate to cruise during amazing weather, but I have experienced the flip
side--namely weeks on end of gray, drizzly stuff. Both the M15 and M17 would
benefit from a well designed boom tent, and it is almost a necessity on the M15.
Bert Felton designed and built a dodger, lee cloths, and a boom tent for his
former M15. I believe that Rich Cotrell patterned his excellent tent after
Bert's design (I believe there are photos of Rich's tent on the MSOG). While
it is never going to be ideal to be cruising such a small boat in inclement
weather, at least you can stay relatively dry with properly designed canvas
(Sunbrella) accessories.
6) Customs: In these times of elevated border tensions, I would suggest
calling the various customs authorities in advance. The customs agents love to
hear from you in advance (cell phone best, but can call on VHF as well), and
will often let you through with minimum fanfare when you have the courtesy to
call and ask questions/give them an estimated time of arrival. Also, this should
go without saying, but park any attitude before going to the customs
office/dock. I can't tell you how many times I have seen boaters with attitude/chip
on their shoulder make life miserable for themselves (and the agents). I can
tell you what agents (both Canadian and US) have told me--namely that they
don't get mad--just even. I have watched boats literally torn apart while I was
allowed to proceed without any search at all.
7) Don't be an ugly American (or ugly anything else): While cruising in
Canadian waters, try to take the position that you are a grateful guest, not an
entitled member of THE dominant world power. Not only is this the polite thing
to do, but you will find that your Canadian hosts can be most gracious--even
generous--to those who tread lightly. As amazing as the scenery and wildlife
is, my fondest memories are the times that locals took us in when we were in
need, or insisted that we come to their home or boats for meals--often begging
us to come back and see them soon. Truth is, most Canadians are charitable to
even jerks, but why go there?
8) Cell phone service coverage is growing annually. The San Juans have
almost 100% coverage with my carrier (Cingular). Verizon seems to do well in BC
waters, though in the Fjords, nothing works (not even Iridium at times). Alaska
seems to be widely covered by AT&T (at least South/Central Alaska where I was
this past summer.
9) Carry a handheld VHF: Most harbormasters monitor VHF 66A, and you want to
have a reliable means of summoning help or information if you find yourself in
a bind. Also, both NOAA (US) and MAREP (Canada) provide area-specific
weather channels for the entire region. These forecasts can be invaluable in
planning and safety. I favor handheld VHF's that accept both Nicads and Alkaline
AA's. A typical handheld Nicad lasts only 8 hours before needing to be
recharged via 12v or 110v shorepower, whereas you can carry a supply of Alkaline
AA's to last an entire trip. My favorite is the Icom M2A submersible.
10) Seek local knowledge: I always try to strike up a conversation at fuel
docks, harbormaster offices, stores, etc. Fisherman usually know better than
anybody what to look for, and where the best anchorages are.
11) Know your boat: Conditions can change quickly anywhere in the Pacific
Northwest. You should be familiar with the limitations of your boat as well as
yourself. You should be well familiar with reefing, headsail changes,
heaving-to, and of course docking and close quarters maneuvering. You should also
have a working knowledge of charts and their symbols (for both US and Canadian
Charts, which do differ somewhat). I like to occasionally refresh myself by
studying NOAA Chart #1 (Nautical Chart Symbol Index) and the Canadian Nautical
Chart Symbol Index.
12) Know the rules of the road: Many areas are busy with ferries, ships, and
seemingly endless quantities of recreational boats. Know the
rules--especially regarding ferries and other large vessels which have the right away due to
their inability to maneuver. Don't stand your ground even if you think you
are right.
13) Have fun in one of the most varied and beautiful cruising grounds in the
world!
Scott
M15 #478 'bebe'
