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Re: M_Boats: Howard's Mods
by bownez＠juno.com 08 Apr '16

08 Apr '16

Hi Tom, I too have replaced the rotted, soaked balsa deck in my M17 from below. It was a nasty, difficult job. I used Core-mat instead of end grain balsa for the new material. The leaks are gone. It would be an easy job if you could turn the boat upside down... One big tip, wear your respirator. Mr. Bones ____________________________________________________________ Wall Street Daily Peter Schiff: China Just Armed its Financial Missile http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/570654ec31e2954eb3c07st01vuc

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Re: M_Boats: Howard's Mods
by bownez＠juno.com 08 Apr '16

08 Apr '16

Hello Henry, To address your questions: Did you cut out the bottom panel in one piece or in sections? If sections, how big? Did you use thickened epoxy or the straight stuff? How thick was the Coremat? Did you have to piece it in or were you able to use one or more large panels? Sorry for all the questions, but I want to get as much information as I can before I dig in. I cut out the bottom of the foredeck in one piece, A rather large triangle. I used a rotozip tool. I used the cut out section as a template to construct a large "patch" of Coremat to epoxy into the void of removed balsa. I used thickened epoxy (System Three brand). Using cut to size Coremat, I made a sandwich of layers gluing the sheets together until I achieved the right thickness of the patch. The nice thing about the Coremat material is it cannot hold water, unlike balsa. I then epoxied the patch into the ceiling using braces to hold it in place. Once that set, I filled the edges with thickened epoxy to seal it. The repair area was then painted, holes drilled, and deck hardware remounted with backing plates. I went to a 2 cleat system instead of a single cleat. I also added a cross brace of hardwood in the ceiling running from cleat to cleat amidship. The new cleats are on hardwood risers to clear the toerail. I have pictures somewhere. I'll look for them. We met in Havasu a few years ago. it would be great to get together here in the twin cities so we can discuss M-boats...... Later, Mr. Bones ____________________________________________________________ Wall Street Daily Peter Schiff: China Just Armed its Financial Missile http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5707aee2f11d2ee1402cst01vuc

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Re: M_Boats: Howard's Mods
by bownez＠juno.com 08 Apr '16

08 Apr '16

Tim, Congratulations sir. You may be the only sailor I have heard of to perform the flip feat. It would be great to see a video of that maneuver. Mr. Bones ____________________________________________________________ Wall Street Daily Peter Schiff: China Just Armed its Financial Missile http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5707aa5a6dede2a5a5783st04vuc

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Howard's Mods
by Henry Rodriguez 06 Apr '16

06 Apr '16

I was wondering if Howard Audsley monitors either this list or the Trailer Sailer site. He described sealing his hull/deck joint with epoxy and painting his aluminum toe rails on Dave Scobies old Sweet Pea site. I want to find out how these have held up over the years since I am looking at doing the same on Monita. Is the paint on the toe rails chipped or peeling? Is the epoxy he injected into the hull/deck joint still leak free or has it cracked? Does he wish he had used something like 5200 instead? I really like some of the repairs/mods he had done to Audasea. I would like to know how these have held up over the years and if he has any new words of caution. Henry -- Sent from Gmail Mobile on Windows 10 phone

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92 Montgomery 17 fixed keel for sale
by eisenee＠aol.com 05 Apr '16

05 Apr '16

92 Monty 17 fixed keel, built by Jerry Montgomery Trail rite trailer with 10 ft extension tongue 4 hp Mariner 2 cycle CDI roller furling Bottomsiders cockpit cushions 3 ft draft Call for complete inventory $10,000 or reasonable offer Located near Ft Worth, Tx Eldor Eisen. 817-781-4238 Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

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Sacramento's Camillia Cup Regatta
by jerry＠jerrymontgomery.org 04 Apr '16

04 Apr '16

Registration is now open for the Camillia Cup Regatta, https://www.regattanetwork.com/clubmgmt/applet_registration_form.php?regatt… which is here at Lake Folsom, just E of Sacramento. The race is April 16 and 17. There are a number of M-15’s and 17’s in this area, and an M-15 is usually entered in the race. Be great to get a good turnout. The centerboard cruising boats are run under Portsmouth, I believe. I’ll be there in the prototype Sage 15 catboat.

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Shroud tension
by David Rifkind 02 Apr '16

02 Apr '16

Any guidance on tensioning shrouds? Mine were set at “that feels about right”. It took me a while to realize, when raising the mast, the shrouds are at maximum tension a few degrees from “up”, when the mast base hasn’t quite dropped down flat, and because of the funny angle, the pull was actually bending the bottom T bolts on the uppers. My shrouds I think are too short, and adjusted all the way out I can just barely get the mast up without overtensioning them. -- David Rifkind M17 #402 “Tycho Blue"

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Spreader boot size for M17?
by John Schinnerer 29 Mar '16

29 Mar '16

Hi all, I need to get new spreader boots for my M17. They seem to come in three sizes - small, medium, large. Some vendors give measurements but I can't figure out from the descriptions what they're actually measuring...they have terse descriptions like: Small Spreader Insert: 1/2" - 1-1/2" Stay Insert: 1/8" Length: 1-5/8" Height: 2" I get that "Stay Insert" refers to stay size, but which way is "length" and which way is "height" and what does the 1/2" - 1 1/2" measurement refer to - spreader tube diameter, or...?? thanks, John S. -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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Re: M_Boats: Shroud tension
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 29 Mar '16

29 Mar '16

David, Gotta love stick and stone technology. You are a genius!!! Bungee (old style with deadly wire hooks at ends) hooked into toggle at the upper shroud and then run over shrouds to the handrail has worked...long velcro straps work too - my boat has toggles in addition to the turnbuckle toggle end at the uppers -they actually exacerbate the problem ( I fooled myself on that one heh?) Man - - anybody who figures out the cosine error of the mast butt angle is serious ! ! Excellent - we have someone to figure out these problems for us now COOL ! ! {;>) Spare t-bolts are a required item in the tool kit. (make sure they are the right thread) Think I may go up to Lake Pleasant on Wednesday (3/30) -forecast looks 'nice' - come on up! Have Fun, Go Sailing GO In a message dated 3/29/2016 4:53:01 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, drifkind(a)acm.org writes: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tvrfyvkihd3t310/P3290004-Edit.jpg?dl=0

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Re: M_Boats: Tiller at anchor
by Dan Farrell 28 Mar '16

28 Mar '16

I've been trying them off thusly: I use an extra dock line with an eye splice over a cleat near the stern. I don't bother with anything fancier than just looping or over the stern. I wrap around the tiller twice, then make the other end fast to the cleat on the other side with a tautline hitch and tension it vigorously. It's critical that the two cleats and the wraps around the tiller be aligned - if the wraps aren't directly between the two cleats, it will slide up or down along the tiller and loosen. But if it's kept tight, this will still be snug when you return to the boat ( so far it has held well in a wind storm of 70 mph gusts, but also in the lee of the land, so maybe less wind than that in reality). I find two half hitches doesn't keep enough tension, so I use a tautline. I'm not sure all m17s have cleats at the aft end of the comings, but they should - great for dock lines too. That having been said, I do think this arrangement still puts stress on the pintles as well as the tiller brackets. I snapped one of the cast aluminum brackets last year, and I suspect it wouldn't have happened if I had been removing the rudder after each use. This year I intend to leave the rudder in anyway though... It's not a huge concern for me. Conbert Benneck <chbenneck(a)gmail.com> wrote: >On 3/14/2016 8:05 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats wrote: > >Tie it so that it is fixed, otherwise if you are at anchor or on a >mooring and the boat tends to sail back and forth your rudder is >constantly in motion. > >If you keep it from moving you aren't putting wear on the pintles. > >Connie >> Same as Dave says - http://www.wavefrontmarine.com/ nice piece of work on >> this one. NFIW but I use one. >> >> >> In a message dated 3/14/2016 5:55:12 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, >> jsheintz(a)gmail.com writes: >> >> What are you supposed to do with the rudder while at anchor or a mooring? >> Do you do anything differently for a short stop vs overnight? How about >> when rough conditions are expected? >> >> > >

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