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by Weesail＠aol.com 25 Apr '02

25 Apr '02

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RE: M_Boats: Mast-Step
by Smith, Tom 25 Apr '02

25 Apr '02

Judy was kind enough to send me her new website address. Here is the link to plates, but visit the rest of her site too...much to be learned. t http://blumhorst.com/potterpages/mast_step_plates_.htm Tom Smith and Jane Van Winkle M15/345 -- Chukar Sandpoint, Idaho -----Original Message----- From: Steve & Diana Parsons [mailto:sparsons@canby.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 9:09 PM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast-Step Hi Tom, Sounds like a good idea. Did you do that? If so, how much did you raise the step, and did you have enough travel in the stays to compensate? Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: "Smith, Tom" <Tom.Smith(a)itron.com> To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 1:22 PM Subject: RE: M_Boats: Mast-Step If you are going to the trouble of rebedding the mast step, why not install a deck plate at the same time. A plate gives you some nice options for attaching blocks, boom vang, etc. Tom Smith and Jane Van Winkle M15/345 -- Chukar Sandpoint, Idaho -----Original Message----- From: Howard Audsley [mailto:haudsley@tranquility.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 5:07 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast-Step On 4/23/02 9:54 PM, "Honshells" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> wrote: > > Has anyone rebed their M17's (perhaps the M15's is the same) mast-step? Was > it difficult to remove? What sealant did you use? Can anyone recommend any > other mast-step/compression-post maintenance, other than rebedding the step > for water-tightness? > > Thanks! > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > I did mine last year. It is important to note that the mast-step is over an area with balsa core. I was hunting for leaks, so I decided to go after this too. The bolt holes are either 1/4" or 5/16ths". I drilled those out to at least 3/8" from the top, and 1/2" on the bottom. I then used a Dremmel tool with the saw blade to ream out a core area between the two sandwich layers. This was filled with thickened epoxy that seals the hole and serves as a compression post or plug in the core area. The holes for the mast-step were then re-drilled and bedded with boatlife caulk. At the same time, I also sealed the core area exposed by the light socket plug, which is adjacent to the mast step. Actually, I removed every bolt that goes through the cabin deck core areas (there are several), drilled the holes out oversized, backfilled with epoxy, re-drilled and bedded. This included not only the mast-step and light plug, but also both handrails, a winch, and turning blocks and cleat for the topping lift. So far, the deck leaks have stopped. Howard _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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RE: M_Boats: Mast-Step
by Smith, Tom 25 Apr '02

25 Apr '02

Steve, Judy Blomhorst (famous Potter sailor) went into some detail on her old website, which seems to be defunct. Dwyer makes them, but the ones Judy talked about weren't Dwyer. You might email her for info on her site or the plates. I'm pretty sure you can get her at this address: commodore(a)potter-yachters.org I haven't installed one, but I've contemplated it, and I certainly would if I was rebedding the mast step. As I recall, the small plate, the one you'd use for the 15, is 3/16 stainless. I'd be very surprised if you have to mess with the standing rigging. T Tom Smith Itron Inc. Phone: 509-928-1707 ext. 248 Fax: 509-928-2581 E-mail: tom.smith(a)itron.com Website: www.linesoft.com Knowledge to Shape Your Future -----Original Message----- From: Steve & Diana Parsons [mailto:sparsons@canby.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 9:09 PM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast-Step Hi Tom, Sounds like a good idea. Did you do that? If so, how much did you raise the step, and did you have enough travel in the stays to compensate? Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: "Smith, Tom" <Tom.Smith(a)itron.com> To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 1:22 PM Subject: RE: M_Boats: Mast-Step If you are going to the trouble of rebedding the mast step, why not install a deck plate at the same time. A plate gives you some nice options for attaching blocks, boom vang, etc. Tom Smith and Jane Van Winkle M15/345 -- Chukar Sandpoint, Idaho -----Original Message----- From: Howard Audsley [mailto:haudsley@tranquility.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 5:07 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast-Step On 4/23/02 9:54 PM, "Honshells" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> wrote: > > Has anyone rebed their M17's (perhaps the M15's is the same) mast-step? Was > it difficult to remove? What sealant did you use? Can anyone recommend any > other mast-step/compression-post maintenance, other than rebedding the step > for water-tightness? > > Thanks! > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > I did mine last year. It is important to note that the mast-step is over an area with balsa core. I was hunting for leaks, so I decided to go after this too. The bolt holes are either 1/4" or 5/16ths". I drilled those out to at least 3/8" from the top, and 1/2" on the bottom. I then used a Dremmel tool with the saw blade to ream out a core area between the two sandwich layers. This was filled with thickened epoxy that seals the hole and serves as a compression post or plug in the core area. The holes for the mast-step were then re-drilled and bedded with boatlife caulk. At the same time, I also sealed the core area exposed by the light socket plug, which is adjacent to the mast step. Actually, I removed every bolt that goes through the cabin deck core areas (there are several), drilled the holes out oversized, backfilled with epoxy, re-drilled and bedded. This included not only the mast-step and light plug, but also both handrails, a winch, and turning blocks and cleat for the topping lift. So far, the deck leaks have stopped. Howard _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: focus on M-15 flotation
by s.mcclellan＠attbi.com 25 Apr '02

25 Apr '02

> Am I missing something here or will my M-15 in it's present condition SINK, > if filled with water? The short anwer is Yes. However, think how difficult it would be to COMPLETELY fill the M15 with water. Even with a major breach of the hull, it would be hard to imagine an angle that the M15 could assume which would not trap at least a couple of cubic feet of air. I have never heard of any M15 becoming fully swamped, or sinking. Having said that, I am all for preparing for the worst case scenario. I once calculated that you'd need just shy of 10 cubic feet of foam to keep a fully swamped M15 afloat but this did not take into account the foam and balsa cored hull and decks, so your 8 cubic feet might be closer. On the other hand, what about the extra weight of anchors, battery, etc.? So I guess I'll stick with the 10ft3 figure. For those of you who are thinking of doing it with empty used 1-gal milk jugs, you'll need about 70 of them. -- Steve McClellan M15 #152 Chicago Area

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Re: M_Boats: cockpit drain
by Mark Pavuk 25 Apr '02

25 Apr '02

Doug, No, we weren't motoring. The wind conditions were perfect yesterday to tack to the bay, reach across for a few hours, and run back into the river. Danny estimated about 20 k winds with some stronger gusts. Plus, we had the bay to ourselves. It was a bit nippy but the bright sunshine made up for it. We got some of the problems with the rigging worked out and need to make a trip to West Marine to solve others, but overall it was a wonderful day. Thanks to all for the drain ideas. In warm weather it would not have been a major concern, but my feet and hands were numb after a while becuase of the wetness. May all of you have similar days of sailing soon. Cherri ---------- >From: Doug Kelch <doug_kelch(a)yahoo.com> >To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com >Subject: Re: M_Boats: cockpit drain >Date: Wed, Apr 24, 2002, 8:46 PM > >Cherri, > >You have discovered the only flaw in the M15 :) > >The good news is that you have good boat speed! >(motoring?) >The most common solutions are: >- ignore it but keep your feet out of the water >- take a celluloid sponge 4" x6" and cut it in half >and stuff a piece of wet sponge under each side of the >teak pennant guide. >- get wet feet > >The prolem with the sponge is that you do not have a >cockpit drain until the water is over the top of the >pennant guide. > >I sail with wet feet and use cheap sea boots in cold >weather. > >Doug > >--- Mark Pavuk <mcpavuk(a)worldnet.att.net> wrote: >> Is it normal to have water entering the cockpit from >> the drain? We >> sailed today and had a wonderful time - the only >> problem was a bit of >> water getting splashed up and getting our feet and >> the main sheet wet. I >> assumed self-bailing was a one way street somehow. >> Are we missing >> something? >> Cherri, M-15 # 322 >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more >http://games.yahoo.com/ > >_______________________________________________ >http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: transducer position
by Sandyal55＠aol.com 25 Apr '02

25 Apr '02

In a message dated 04/25/2002 2:36:31 AM !!!First Boot!!!, msog(a)msog.org writes: > > >> Which part goes bad on the road trips. The transducer or the knotmeter? > The knotmeter spins in the air when trailering. Some folks remove it. It's easier to put a paperclip on one of the paddle flats. A friend jams a cigarette butt up into it. The next time he launches, the butt dissolves and he doesn't have to remember to remove it. The objective is to stop the highway spin. Sandy

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RE: M_Boats: Mast-Step
by Smith, Tom 25 Apr '02

25 Apr '02

If you are going to the trouble of rebedding the mast step, why not install a deck plate at the same time. A plate gives you some nice options for attaching blocks, boom vang, etc. Tom Smith and Jane Van Winkle M15/345 -- Chukar Sandpoint, Idaho -----Original Message----- From: Howard Audsley [mailto:haudsley@tranquility.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 5:07 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast-Step On 4/23/02 9:54 PM, "Honshells" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> wrote: > > Has anyone rebed their M17's (perhaps the M15's is the same) mast-step? Was > it difficult to remove? What sealant did you use? Can anyone recommend any > other mast-step/compression-post maintenance, other than rebedding the step > for water-tightness? > > Thanks! > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > I did mine last year. It is important to note that the mast-step is over an area with balsa core. I was hunting for leaks, so I decided to go after this too. The bolt holes are either 1/4" or 5/16ths". I drilled those out to at least 3/8" from the top, and 1/2" on the bottom. I then used a Dremmel tool with the saw blade to ream out a core area between the two sandwich layers. This was filled with thickened epoxy that seals the hole and serves as a compression post or plug in the core area. The holes for the mast-step were then re-drilled and bedded with boatlife caulk. At the same time, I also sealed the core area exposed by the light socket plug, which is adjacent to the mast step. Actually, I removed every bolt that goes through the cabin deck core areas (there are several), drilled the holes out oversized, backfilled with epoxy, re-drilled and bedded. This included not only the mast-step and light plug, but also both handrails, a winch, and turning blocks and cleat for the topping lift. So far, the deck leaks have stopped. Howard _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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focus on M-15 flotation
by Charless Fowlkes 24 Apr '02

24 Apr '02

Thanks to list members for advising me on my "new" 1985 M-15. Today I cut out the tray in the starboard sail locker with a Sawzall. It looks almost as good as the factory sail locker. The access let me get a close look at the flotation. Having adequate floatation to keep a swamped boat floating is the ultimate safety device in my opinion. This evening I scrutinized the floatation of my M-15. In the aft compartment there were five rectangular pieces of Styrofoam having a measured volume of 2.28 cubic feet. The cavity directly under the cockpit sole was about 2.95 cubic feet. The foam blocks were not all under the cockpit sole but were scattered around the compartment. In the forward compartment there were 26 triangular pieces of Styrofoam having a measured volume of 2.31 cubic feet. (Yup, I measured every one.) These pieces were loosely packed into a bow cavity which had an estimated volume of 4.17 cubic feet. Very rough estimates place the floatation needed for the bare M-15 at about 500 pounds. The fiberglass needs 350 pounds, the keel 250 pounds and the core floats 100 pounds. The foam presently in my boat should float about (2.28+2.31) x 62 or 285 pounds. It seems the boat needs about 200 pounds MORE floatation. I could get about 100 pounds more floatation by packing more foam into the bow compartment. Am I missing something here or will my M-15 in it's present condition SINK, if filled with water? I have only read a few of the Archives, maybe someone has figured this out. Has anyone seen a swamped M-15? I once had a Ranger 20 with similar floatation in the bow and under the cockpit. During a race in Idaho a Ranger 20 was knocked down when a gust hit the boat with the spinnaker flying. It filled with water and did NOT sink. I did not see this capsize but it was nice to know the flotation had been tested. Does anybody know about any M-15 flotation tests? Charless Fowlkes Bozeman, MT

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Re: M_Boats: M17 Performance
by AirEvacLen＠aol.com 24 Apr '02

24 Apr '02

In a message dated 4/23/02 7:45:43 PM US Mountain Standard Time, chonshell(a)ia4u.net writes: > Is the M17 more prone to weather, or lee helm, if either? > Neither...........If your boat is rigged correctly it should have slight weather helm when sailing on the wind..........How much depends on wind velocity and which headsail/mainsail combination you are using........For the sake of argument,. lets say close hauled, full main and 125 Genoa.........in 15 kts of wind. The tiller should be off center to weather without slowing the boat down, and the boat should round up without launching you overboard if you let go............The books say 5 degrees of weather helm is about right,,,,,,,but I've always had a difficult time holding a protractor and a beer at the same time,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,LOL. Lenny M-23 003 Sea Horse

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Mast-Step
by Honshells 24 Apr '02

24 Apr '02

Has anyone rebed their M17's (perhaps the M15's is the same) mast-step? Was it difficult to remove? What sealant did you use? Can anyone recommend any other mast-step/compression-post maintenance, other than rebedding the step for water-tightness? Thanks!

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