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Raystown Lake w/my M15
by brad kurlancheek 19 Oct '16

19 Oct '16

took my M15 to Raystown Lake in Penna. last Monday; the lake is void of houses, and at this time of year, you'll see at most only a handful of boats out, if any; stayed out on the water till Saturday morning; anchored in a cove each night, having the place to myself each time the coves are well sheltered and only one night did I feel the need to drop a 2nd anchor, just in case on two of the mornings woke to thick solid fog; tho it was in the 30s outside, because the water was warm, the cabin only got down to into the 50s, which is tolerable if you put enough layers on the water is incredibly deep at Raystown, with steep shores, so pretty much wherever you drop the hook, even if you're only 15 feet from shore, you're working with 20 to 40 feet of depth, even that close to shore; you really can't get any farther than about 20 feet from shore, because from that distance, you're dealing with a depth of 80 to 100 feet. consequently, you've got to hope the forecast is right, and that wind will be coming offshore during the wee hours, so that things don't go bump in the night, as in, your nice gelcoat finish getting messed with by the rocks that line the shore with the trees changing colors and 5 to 10 mph breezes most days, the sailing was top shelf and the scenery has you wondering what you did right to deserve to see it

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A great product
by Thomas Buzzi 18 Oct '16

18 Oct '16

Hi All, Am working through my "Connie" list of improvements and while foraging through my local ACE hardware store discovered a great product put out by m-d air-sealing tape. It is EPDM rubber gasket material with self stick. It is made in 1/8 thru 1/2 inch increments and comes 8.5 feet long. It can be separated down the middle by simply tearing it apart so you have 17 LF of gasket. I used it on the lip right around the cockpit openings under the hatches and it compresses very well. Also tried it around the forward hatch, again right around the opening under the hatch. Again, water and wind tight. I also used some on the inside forward edge of the main hatch to stop water from sluicing inside of the cabin. There it also results in a gentle (poof) while closing the hatch instead of the "thump" that used to happen. Be sure you have it where you want it before pressing it firmly into place because it will remove paint that is not firmly in place. Addendum to using the furniture leg stops to cushion overhead nuts and bolts, if the stickum on the back of the pad ever decides to let go, a dab of contact cement on the surface of the pad and the surface it used to stick to will insure it stays in place. Fair winds, Tom B.

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Some Waldo lake pix
by John Schinnerer 15 Oct '16

15 Oct '16

A few shots from my recent Waldo lake trip. Ghosting; cruising; morning dew on coaming; nice anchorage. cheers, John S. -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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Help with M17 centerboard stop pin and leak
by John Schinnerer 14 Oct '16

14 Oct '16

Hi all, After last trip to Waldo lake, boat sitting on trailer in driveway for some days, I noticed a small damp spot under the aft end of the keel (didn't notice it right away because it was raining off and on and there were drips various places from water running down the hull). A bit of a rust color to the stain, but also some dark metallic color. First I thought it was from a trailer beam drain hole in that vicinity. On closer inspection, a very very slow slow drip of water was coming from just aft of the back edge of the CB slot. Timed it today and it is about one drip every 3 minutes. Some pictures attached... Crawling under & feeling around and looking with flashlight etc. revealed that the moisture is coming from the port side of the slot, around where the CB stop pin is. There is some dirty-metal looking gritty material there that comes off on my finger when I rub it, like corroding metal surface. Also a bit of rusty color. The water runs down from around where the pin enters port side of CB slot and then back along the edge of the slot and past the aft end of the slot an inch or so before forming a drop. The starboard side of the inside of the trunk where the pin goes through is dry. There are some surface cracks/fissures (visible in some pics) but I think they are just that - crazing of paint or gelcoat, minor scrapes from light grounding, etc.. Water does not appear to come from those; when I wipe it all dry, it just runs down from the pin/keel interface area on port side. It almost looks like there is a metal "U" shape embedded at the rear of the CB slot - face/thin edge of U down towards ground, bottom of U towards stern, as if to reinforce where the pin goes...? I read what I could find on the MSOG regular and photo sites about CB repair jobs and related. Only a few references to the stop pin. Sounds like the stop pin - what it is (bolt, screw, rod, etc.) and how it's installed - varies from boat to boat somewhat. This is #38, 1974. There are no exposed pin ends. There is a very slight bulge where the pin would go through, on the starboard side. The port side is all smooth, no visible pin end location. Conclusions so far: Water coming out of there likely had to go in there. Presumably a tiny fissure or hairline crack or corroded piece of something to do with the stop pin (or combo of those) allowing water to seep slowly, slowly in that part of the keel when boat is in water. Then it seeps slowly, slowly out when it's on the hard. Don't recall seeing this after four weeks in Howard Prairie Lake in July. Don't recall if it was happening after 3 1/2 days in Fern Ridge lake (three weeks ago)...maybe, maybe not... So it may have just started. Any thoughts? Anyone had a similar situation? Had to work on something like this? I'm thinking at the least I'm going to have to do a little exploratory grinding for the pin end(s), figure out how it went in, how to get it out, and then explore that port side of the hole to find whatever the leak is and fix it. I am keeping all my digits crossed that whatever cavity is around or adjacent to that pin end does not connect to the part of the keel where the steel punching ballast is. Any info on that (for better or worse) appreciated also. thanks, John S. -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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Re: M_Boats: Help with M17 centerboard stop pin and leak
by David Grah 13 Oct '16

13 Oct '16

Agreed. This sort of information is one of the most valuable things about this group. Message: 4 Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2016 15:21:33 -0600 From: Dave Scobie <scoobscobie(a)gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Help with M17 centerboard stop pin and leak Message-ID: <CAGjBOA5rENrrbV3OCe4HiiG6Kp0kZDh13-P98wmXWityc=L5nQ(a)mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Great share Chesley. Projects are the same on M15, M17 and M23 ... just differences in 'scale' between the boats. :: Dave Scobie On Oct 12, 2016 5:18 PM, "Chesley Sugg" <csugg(a)mindspring.com> wrote: > John, > > Here's a keel repair on a M15. Probably much the same. > > https://plus.google.com/photos/104382335680677118827/ > albums/5058997729451769937?banner=pwa > > > Chesley Sugg, M15, M17 >

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Florida pan handle sailing + free rudder!
by Richard Everett 08 Oct '16

08 Oct '16

Hi again everyone. We have made our way through Georgia and after looking at some rather crowded options for RV parks on the gulf in Florida, we decided to rent a 2bd house in Carrabelle for a month! The house is only a couple of blocks from Moorings of Carrabelle marina on the mouth of the Carrabelle river as it dumps out into the gulf. I think we will put our M17 in there so we can sail and fish around Dog Island/St. George Island whenever we want. I have been eyeing the discussion of keeping a M17 in salt water so maybe we will haul it out every week to spray it off. Anyway, if any of you are in that area for the month of October/early November and want to pair up for sailing, it would be a blast. Also, we have on order a folding rudder from Ruddercraft and so our wooden original rudder (2005 M17) and tiller will be available for free. It is in good condition (can take pics) but we just don't have room in our RV to haul it around once we get the folding rudder. If you want it shipped, you have to pay for packing and all shipping charges. The last lake we sailed on (Lake Blackshear in Georgia) was quite shallow at the shore and we had to totally remove the wooden rudder in order to beach our boat every time. That was the final straw to push me to get a folding rudder. Rick and Debora M17 #635 Eidolon

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Re: M_Boats: reefing setups
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 08 Oct '16

08 Oct '16

There would only be Two lines for the forward reefs as the cunningham is typically used on the flattening reef. (I use stand alone cunni (4:1 for forward reef downhaul - saves hardware on the limited boom real estate. Hard to tell what intermediate owners use/remove or modify over the years?!?! In a message dated 10/7/2016 10:56:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, john(a)eco-living.net writes: On 10/06/2016 11:53 AM, David Rifkind wrote: ... > I’m curious how you handle multiple reefs. My main has only one. I > assume you don’t have three full sets of reefing tackle on the boom. > What do you do with them? So far I have only used the first reef - what GO said might be a "flattening" reef. It takes a decent bite out of sail area and seems to match very well with the "small" jib that came with the boat. And it does flatten the main some compared to no reef. There are two cheek blocks and two horn cleats on starboard side of my boom. The horn cleats I plan to replace with jam cleats for quickness and ease - making fast with good outhaul tension on a horn cleat with sail and boom bouncing around in rising wind is less than optimal. The upside is, they provide something to wrap the excess reefing line around...which a jam cleat doesn't...what have others done for this conundrum? Interesting GO what you said about a "flattening reef" - because the cheek blocks do not seem to be positioned right for what I was assuming was the "first" and "second" reef (I figured the block & cleat for the 2nd would also be used for the 3rd, or, that nobody had ever put on a block & cleat for the 3rd). The rear-most cheek block, which I assumed was for the "first" reef, is not far enough aft to give an effective outhaul for the first reef. But it would be well located for the "second" reef. Likewise the other cheek block is not aft enough for the apparent "second" reef, but clearly is aft enough for the "third" reef. So I think you've clarified why that is...I was one off in my thinking, those two blocks are for the 2nd and 3rd reef, not the 1st and 2nd. So to use my "first" (flattening?) reef, I've just run the regular outhaul through the first reef grommet, using the same end-of-boom block as for full main. Which is a bit less convenient than I'd like. So I'm pondering how to have a quick-n-easy setup for that first/flattening reef. cheers, John S. -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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Re: M_Boats: reefing
by Dave Scobie 08 Oct '16

08 Oct '16

David. Post pictures of boom and lower portion of the mast. I'll get you sorted and reefing in less than thirty seconds. (Reefing takes a lot less time than typing this email on my phone). :: Dave Scobie On Oct 7, 2016 1:27 PM, "David Rifkind" <drifkind(a)acm.org> wrote: > On Oct 6, 2016, at 12:33 PM, Keith R. Martin <keith.richard.martin@gmail. com> wrote: > > I have 3 reefs in my main and have all 3 sets of cheek blocks and cleats > on my boom so that the reefing system is completely contained on the boom. > I prefer a 2 line reefing system with an individual lines so the boom is a > little busy but a choice of small cleats and harken micro cheek blocks > makes it all work pretty well… There’s no gear at all on the mast end of my boom for reefing. All I’ve done is unthread the downhaul and put it through the kringle on the sail. It works but the boom drops all the way down. Maybe I’d be better off with a gasket or hook to attach the kringle to the boom. There’s a spot on the side of the boom where some piece of hardware was removed at one time, but I have no idea what it was.

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Re: M_Boats: reefing setups
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 07 Oct '16

07 Oct '16

You need to tie in a loop thru the reef cringle and around the boom if you elect to not add more hardware for the use of the flattening reef - or add MORE hardware - That is why they call it a BOOM! I have converted to 'less hardware - more use of line or soft attachments' philosophy as our boats and spars are very small/I am too cheap to buy new hardware and 'soft' is more flexible and less weight. 'Google' soft shackles, soft attachments for sail rigging or related for ideas. Have fUn, go sailing GO In a message dated 10/7/2016 10:56:35 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, john(a)eco-living.net writes: On 10/06/2016 11:53 AM, David Rifkind wrote: ... > I’m curious how you handle multiple reefs. My main has only one. I > assume you don’t have three full sets of reefing tackle on the boom. > What do you do with them? So far I have only used the first reef - what GO said might be a "flattening" reef. It takes a decent bite out of sail area and seems to match very well with the "small" jib that came with the boat. And it does flatten the main some compared to no reef. There are two cheek blocks and two horn cleats on starboard side of my boom. The horn cleats I plan to replace with jam cleats for quickness and ease - making fast with good outhaul tension on a horn cleat with sail and boom bouncing around in rising wind is less than optimal. The upside is, they provide something to wrap the excess reefing line around...which a jam cleat doesn't...what have others done for this conundrum? Interesting GO what you said about a "flattening reef" - because the cheek blocks do not seem to be positioned right for what I was assuming was the "first" and "second" reef (I figured the block & cleat for the 2nd would also be used for the 3rd, or, that nobody had ever put on a block & cleat for the 3rd). The rear-most cheek block, which I assumed was for the "first" reef, is not far enough aft to give an effective outhaul for the first reef. But it would be well located for the "second" reef. Likewise the other cheek block is not aft enough for the apparent "second" reef, but clearly is aft enough for the "third" reef. So I think you've clarified why that is...I was one off in my thinking, those two blocks are for the 2nd and 3rd reef, not the 1st and 2nd. So to use my "first" (flattening?) reef, I've just run the regular outhaul through the first reef grommet, using the same end-of-boom block as for full main. Which is a bit less convenient than I'd like. So I'm pondering how to have a quick-n-easy setup for that first/flattening reef. cheers, John S. -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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Re: M_Boats: Some Waldo lake pix
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 07 Oct '16

07 Oct '16

John, Nice looking Boat ! ! ! GO In a message dated 10/3/2016 1:02:06 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, john(a)eco-living.net writes: A few shots from my recent Waldo lake trip. Ghosting; cruising; morning dew on coaming; nice anchorage. cheers, John S. -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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