September 2006 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: Hello!
by LUDLOWD2＠aol.com 07 Sep '06

07 Sep '06

Dongai Welcome aboard, let us know a little about you and where you plan to sail your new M-15. I've got an M-15 "launching checklist" that I could e-mail u if you would like it. Don Ludlow M-15 #620 Sweet Dream, Mobile

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immovable object
by htmills＠bright.net 07 Sep '06

07 Sep '06

Ever wonder what happens when an M17 rudder encounters an immovable object? Find out here: www.todspages.net/images/LF-ShatteredRudder2.jpg and www.todspages.net/images/LF-ShatteredRudder.jpg Fortunately, IdaSailor was able to overnight a replacement, saving my vacation trip. Unfortunately, my vacation was sufficiently short that I elected not to wait the extra day or two for a kick-up type. A kick up type IS in Busca's future, though. How did this happen? I was not observant enough to notice that the round, mooring-ball-sized float at the edge of a mooring field was in fact not a mooring but instead was someone's old faded round ball fender marking a shoal. At first I thought I had hit a concrete mooring block, but after thinking over the appearance of the "mooring ball" concluded that it was just a fender marking a shoal. I was surprised that the bolts on the transom did not pop. (Even the sealant covering the lowermost gudgeon was intact). When previous owner Rod Johnson smacked a log hanging out under a log boom, he didn't break the rudder, but did stretch the bolts on the transom gudgeon (which I replaced). Tod Mills M17 #408 BuscaBrisas

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Re: M_Boats: Auto tiller recomendations
by Larry E Yake 07 Sep '06

07 Sep '06

Hi Norm, I have a TP10 on CornDog which I've used sparingly for the last two seasons. It's a bare bones unit, but it basically get's the job done. I don't think it holds a course as well as it should when sailing, but it works very well during those long motoring stretches. I find I don't use it for short periods (such as reefing, etc.) because it is a little awkward to connect and disconnect. I use a simple tiller bungy for those times. It also concerns me that in an emergency situation it does not have a manual override capability. You have to either disconnect it, or operate it with the directional buttons which are slow. I would like to be able to just grab the tiller and move it if I need to, but I don't know how that could be designed. Larry On Thu, 7 Sep 2006 11:43:26 -0700 "Norm Bundek" <nbundek(a)earthlink.net> writes: > Does anyone have any experience with a TP10 or ST1000 auto tiller on > their M15 or 17? I take long trips single handed and need a break > as well as control of the tiller while changing the jib or reefing. > > Norm > M15 #172 > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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Re: M_Boats: Shroud for M15
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 07 Sep '06

07 Sep '06

Nicopress says their zinc-copper sleeves on SS exceed wire strength. If memory is right they spec to use 2 sleeves on 1x19 SS wire and 1 sleeve on more flexible wire. Bill

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T-shirts should be arriving
by Nebwest2＠aol.com 07 Sep '06

07 Sep '06

Hey gang! If you ordered a Monty t-shirt, sweatshirt, long sleeve T, or Zip-up hoodie, they should be arriving on your doorstep about now. Please do me a favor and let me know how you like them once you have a chance to check them out. In fact, if you do a little sailing while wearing it, send me a photo! Hope you guys enjoy wearing them as much as I do! Thanks for all the support for the project. Sean M23 Dauntless www.havasumontgomerys.funtigo.com

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Re: M_Boats: Shroud for M15
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 07 Sep '06

07 Sep '06

Norm, Before using a hand/wrench tool on your shrouds and stays you might want to check and see if that tool is indeed suitable for standing rigging. These types of tools are usually for lifeline rigging and specify use for that type of application. I have seen small hand/wrench models sold as 'emergency tools'. I have worn out 3 of the hand wrench models used as directed, on lifelines, when the proper tool was not available. If it were me (I am actually having all new shrouds and stays made up due to a new mast) I would send my work to Mr. Montgomery, and get it done right. How fortunate are we as a group of Owners to have the original Builder/Designer available for assistance!?!! Just my 2 cents worth and you know what you paid for it. PS Having your rig come down in your lap is at best inconvenient and at worst dangerous and usually expensive! BTDTGTTS It is always embarrassing. G.Oberbeck M-17 #316a

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Re: M_Boats: Shroud for M15
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 06 Sep '06

06 Sep '06

Some galvanized wire has a rope center, that's the weak stuff. Standard 1/8" x1x19 galvanized wire is rated at approx 2100lbs, same as 304. 316 is rated approx 1800lbs. Monty rigs are so small It isn't much money to do all SS though.

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Re: M_Boats: Shroud for M15
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 06 Sep '06

06 Sep '06

In a message dated 9/6/2006 12:19:13 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, coolskipper(a)gmail.com writes: Donglai Donglai, 316 will stay shinny and 304 can show rust but it will clean off. It's more of a problem if moored full time on saltwater. On a trailer boat where you freshwater rinse and keep it stored in the backyard, I don't think the rust factor matters much. The major difference between 304 and 316 is breaking strength. 316 is weaker when compared to the same diameter 304. The general rule is to change wire diameter depending on which SS you use. If possible I would order from Jerry M. but concerning west marine. I don't know if everyone is aware that they have a new boat owner program. New or not, if you bought a boat within the last 30 days (very loose on this at my local WM) they give 10% discount on everything but electronics. Electronics get 5% discount and you get the discount for 30 days. They have the tools for basic swaging and let customers use them to make their stays in the store. I've made several for small boats there. Bill

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Re: M_Boats: immovable object
by bownez＠juno.com 06 Sep '06

06 Sep '06

Hello Todd, Larry and Listers, I struck a shoal area years ago with my M17 on Lake Petenwell in WI. At the time, my rudder pin had lifted up from the lowest gudgeon (no clip in place at the end of the rudder pin). I was moving at hull speed and the force of grounding of the rudder cracked the transon fiberglass around the middle gudgeon. If the rudder rod had been locked in it's proper place I would have either bent the rod or cracked the rudder as Todd experienced. The middle gudgeon was repaired and re-glassed into place, and I had another rudder built using the original as a template. I cut the new rudder so it would hinge and had SS cheek plates made for it to pivot. The mfg kick-up rudder is now the one I use when sailing new areas where the depth is in question. My rudder was documented in the last Monty newsletter before the publication ended, I believe it's in the archives. I don't think my depth sounder would have helped me, the shoal area came up so fast. I was not close to the shoreline, but I was on a river flowage which can and does silt up and hold secrets as to its bottom. Later, Bones

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Shroud for M15
by Donglai Gong 05 Sep '06

05 Sep '06

Hello all, Where do you get new shrouds for your M15? My old ones are showing signs of wear/rust and a couple strands of wire are already broken. I saw that Jerry Montgomery sell them on his website: http://www.jerrymontgomery.com/ but so far hasn't gotten a response. If I order from westmarine on my own should I get the 316 stainless or the 304 stainless? Some website says that the 316 is more corrosion proof. Does anyone have the 'official' specs of the M15 standing rigging? Thanks! Regards, Donglai

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