October 2006 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

RE: M_Boats: Cockpit Hatch Cover Replacement
by bownez＠juno.com 23 Oct '06

23 Oct '06

I'll remember that! Fore warned is fore armed. Bones Although I liked the lift-out hatch, I heard it's ability to take flight was a big reason Jerry went to the captured hatch on the new deck mold. Old M17 owners, beware!.

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re: M15 For Sale in Connecticut
by Steve R. 23 Oct '06

23 Oct '06

Skip, Congratulations, she looks like a nice one, although the weight of an 8hp motor may present problems trying to trim the boat. Where do you sail? steve Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY *********************************************** The boat in KY is SOLD. I bought it last week and I will be picking it up this week. Skip

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M8 in SF
by Bobbie Mayer 23 Oct '06

23 Oct '06

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/boa/224539904.html

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Local Montgomery 15?
by Jeffrey Mirus 23 Oct '06

23 Oct '06

I'm new to the list and am, at present, a Montgomery fan rather than an owner. I currently sail a Precision 23, mostly on the Potomac River. I have also trailer sailed it on Lake Champlain in New York and on Roanoke Sound in North Carolina's Outer Banks area. I am interested in the possibility of purchasing a Montgomery 15, but I have never been able to see one "in the flesh". I'm wondering if any Montgomery 15 owners in the greater Washington, DC area would allow me to look at their boats. The boat doesn't have to be for sale. I just need the opportunity to actually see one first hand. Thanks! Jeff Mirus Precision 23 'Spray

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M15 For Sale in Connecticut
by Rick Langer 22 Oct '06

22 Oct '06

The latest edition of SCA has an M15 for sale in Connecticut. new sail roller furling for both main and jib 3.5 hp Johnson Easy Loader trailer good condition $4800 860-569-7181 If I have it right, that's Westport. Rick Langer M15 #337 Bluebird

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Re: M_Boats: bolt rope/slugs
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 21 Oct '06

21 Oct '06

In my experience using the bolt rope instead of slugs has been a hassle and converting to slugs is one of the first things I do if the sail doesn't have them. A bolt rope won't let the sail flake properly without removing from the slot and takes more effort all around...raising and lowering. The slot on your mast should have a stop in it to keep the slugs from falling out. The stop is basically a slug with a thumbscrew to tighten or loosen and adjust at will. The stop is otherwise never touched until you want to remove the sail from the boat. The boom should be close enough to the slot to let you raise, lower and flake the sail without feeding. It's a matter of matching slug size and type (round, barrel, wire, solid, shoulders, etc) to the slot to make the sail slide down without help.

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bolt rope/slugs
by Timtone 17 Oct '06

17 Oct '06

Now that my season is basically over I am getting a bunch of repairs, mods and restoration projects sorted on our 17. I tend to fix things that break in the winter and live with anything that might take away from sailing during the season. ~:0) What I am wondering about is the setup on our boat for the attachment of the main sail. The mast does have the a slot as I am sure all of the masts have, but there is an 3" open area 12" or so above the boom where you can feed in either your slugs or bolt rope luff. The North main the boat came with has slugs. (a wonderful sail btw) The part that has been irritating for me has been the fact that I needed to be at the base of the mast to both feed slugs past the opening to raise sail....and to help them past the opening when bringing the sail down. This process is slow and not much fun. I am hoping to run my main halyard to the cockpit eventually. I had thought to make a filler piece out of some UHMW that would keep the opening closed and continue to use the slugs. But then when I was working on something else last night, I noticed the sail also has a nice bolt rope sewn into it, the slugs are attached in such a way that they could be easily taken off. Now what I am wondering is.....how do you flake a sail that has a bolt rope luff? Does it come out of the slot at that point.....I am sure it would have to be able to come out of the slot to be able to flake it on the boom. What is the usual setup on these boats folks? I have mostly experienced slugged luffs and gaffers with hoops and rope luffs.....and it seemed to me that the one raceboat I was on with a rope luff had all of the groove removed from about 10" above the boom and down to the gooseneck. Thanks in advance for the help. Cheers, Tim D M17 #369 'Puff'

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reefing and etc.
by Donglai Gong 17 Oct '06

17 Oct '06

Hi all, Does anyone have reefing instructions for the M15? I see the reefing points on the sail but I don't think my boat has been set up for reefing before. In any case, pictures or descriptions would be welcome. I mucked around on the nearby lake today. The boat hove to very well. I was able to read while enjoying the sunset. Also does anyone have good idea on how to remove vinyl lettering on the hull? I was told a hair dryer might help. I have finally settled on a name for my boat. :-) If any of you sail in the NJ/NYC area and would like to go for a sail together, please let me know. Sailing with another M-boat must be fun. As soon as I have a compass installed and get some charts I'll be taking it out into the bay. It's too bad the sun is setting so early now, definitely not looking forward to turning back my clock. Donglai M15 #612 "Shaolin"

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Buzzards Bay cruise - synopsis
by Doug Kelch 16 Oct '06

16 Oct '06

To:All I just can't say enough about the pleasures of cruising in an M15 :-) The Buzzards Bay cruise was the last week in August. We had 4 M15s and 1 M17 on the cruise. One M17 had to dropout as he had tow vehicle problems on the way to MA. Frank Durant had his brand new M15 and this was the first time it was launched. A real litmus test. Saturday - Sunday - were windy and rainy so we didn't leave harbor till Monday in the rain. Tod smashed his Rudder tooling around the Harbor on Sunday. Great winds and nice sail in the Rain on Monday - Sailed down to Quiset harbor which has a fleet of over 30 Hershoff 15s - all in exquisite condition. Lots of eye candy. 15 lb CQR, 4 M15s and the anchor dragged at high tide. Probably not enough scope. Short downwind sail to Hadley harbor in 20 kts on Tuesday. Picked up one of the free mooring from the Forbes family. Met up with Tod that night. His Ida rudder arrived and was a perfect fit. His self steering worked all the way down the Bay. Wednesday a great sunny sailing day out to Oak Bluffs on Martha's vineyard. Calm night so we stayed rafted up in 24 ft of water - wind kicked up out of the N (a bad direction) around 12:30 AM. We had 200ft of line out with a 15 lb CQR but dragged anyway. A mad scramble to break up the raft. Regrouped in the Morning and with tropical storm Ernesto heading our way we went all of the way to Cuttyhunk on Thursday - averaged 6 knots for 25 NM with a tail wind and favorable current. A nice stay at Cuttyhunk and everyone got out in thier inflatables and hiked around town. The evening forcast confirmed Ernesto was heading our way with 40 kt gusts so on Friday we sailed back to Fairhaven in 18 kt winds, 5 degrees off the wind. Another nice sail with an occasional 5 ft wave. Pulled out Friday PM and had a nice dinner a local seafood restaurant. Typical Buzzards Bay wind strength that required a reef most days. All in a wet but good trip. Thanks Doug Kelch "Seas the Day" M15 #310 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com

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re: reefing and etc.
by Steve R. 16 Oct '06

16 Oct '06

Donglai, Reefing is easy. Describing how to reef is hard. There are two cringles, or grommets, in the sail. One is at the front, or luff, and one is at the rear, or leach. The cringles are maybe two feet or so above the boom when the sail is raised normally to the full height. When reefed, the two cringles are lowered down to the boom and secured, thus serving as a new clew and a new tack. The bottom portion of the sail is not in use, thus the sail area has been reduced. To get the cringles down, you first heave to and then ease the main halyard enough so that the cringles will drop to the boom. Secure the main halyard so that it does not fly away. What you do next is a matter of choosing from one of the following: First, an aft reefing line may be secured to a strap on the port side of the boom, near the aft end. This line goes up the sail, through the aft cringle, back down the starboard side of the main, through a block on the boom, and forward to a clam cleat on the boom. Pull on the line so that the cringle snugs up to the boom, then cleat the line. A second line is secured to a strap on the mast that is maybe a foot above the base. This line runs up one side of the main, through the front cringle, down the other side of the main, and to a cam cleat mounted on the mast. I think I have mine set up so that the line is fastened to the strap on the port side, and cleat on the starboard side. Again, pull the line so that the cringle is snugged up to the boom, and cleat the line. After the reefing lines are secured, tighten up on the main halyard again. The lowest part of the sail can be rolled up if you wish to appear nautical. This is the easiest method of reefing to do, as the straps, cleats and block should be there. You may just need two lengths of line that will fit the cleats. Second, use an aft reefing line as above. Have a hook on the gooseneck that the forward cringle is hooked to. Doug with “Seas the Day” posted a link to a picture with this arrangement earlier this year. Again, as above, hoist the main halyard and roll up the reef. Here you need a length of line and a hook. I plan to switch to this method when I remember to buy a hook. The rear line can be left attached if the sail and boom are removed from the boat, but the front line in the first method must be redone each time the boom is installed and removed. Third, use one line pull both cringles down at the same time. This is called jiffy reefing. This line needs to run along the boom to duplicate the two lines used in the first method. Again, hoist the main and roll the reef. You will need one longer length of line and some additional hardware like blocks or eyes to allow the line to run through both cringles. I could see doing this on a larger boat but I think this is the least desirable method for a 15. Again, the front portion of the line must be redone each time the boom goes on and off the boat. It may sound complicated but this is something you can practice with the boat on the trailer in the driveway, assuming you have little or no wind. You obviously want to have the line rigged and ready to go before you have to reef. It really takes only a few seconds to reef when you need to. As far as removing decals, I have used a special spray on product my wife bought for that purpose. I have also used my favorite miracle cleaner and degreaser, WD-40. The WD-40 works as well. steve Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY

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