June 2005 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

RE: M_Boats: Dead ends
by Tom Smith 07 Jun '05

07 Jun '05

I'm looking for a dead end specifically designed for one-directional load (one or more holes for fasteners on one side, unlike for example a padeye, which is attached on either side). There's something called a spin strap (by Race-Lite) that's designed for attaching a block to a spar that is like what I'm looking for, except the bail is sort of sharp edged and would eventually chaff. Any ideas? Tom Smith & Jane VanWinkle M15/345--Chukar M17/064--Unamed

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RE: M_Boats: M15 towing with a small SUV
by Morris, Giles 07 Jun '05

07 Jun '05

I towed my M-15 with three different vehicles: A 1991 Cadillac Seville automatic towed it with ease but scrabbled somewhat on a few ramps on hauling out A 1987 VW Golf (tired, standard engine, manual transmission) towed it but not with ease. Launched it without problems but I never used it for retrieval. I wouldn't choose to do this again. A 1998 Volvo V70 automatic towed, launched and recovered it with ease, including a two week trip covering 3000 miles to Georgian Bay. Giles Morris Still missing Umiaq my M-15..... -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+giles.morris=unisys.com(a)mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+giles.morris=unisys.com@mailman.xmissio n.com] On Behalf Of David W. Wood Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2005 1:00 PM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: M15 towing with a small SUV I tow and launch/retrieve my M-15 with a 1999 Subaru Forester, hauling it up and down a 3000 ft. grade to a nearby

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M15 towing with a small SUV
by David W. Wood 07 Jun '05

07 Jun '05

I tow and launch/retrieve my M-15 with a 1999 Subaru Forester, hauling it up and down a 3000 ft. grade to a nearby lake here in southern Oregon (Howard Prairie Lake). The engine, transmission, and brakes seem to have no problem with the boat and trailer. The M-15 is light enough that most cars can handle the load. The Forester certainly does it without breaking a sweat. I've yet to tow it over a long distance, but if I did I'd be much more worried about my old trailer than the car. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= David W. Wood -=- dwood(a)dwoodworks.com 1981 M15 -=- Hull #163

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Penetrol
by Rick Langer 07 Jun '05

07 Jun '05

Tod, Even if you could get a buffing pad attached, the angle grinder runs too fast and will create too much heat on the surface. Although not an expert, I gained a lot of experience polishing Airstream aluminum. When getting equipped up for the aluminum polishing project, I considered the many options available. For polishing (as opposed to compounding) I bought a Cyclo two head random orbital polisher ($200). I bought this because the experts recommended it, but I now think I could have done just as good a job at much less expense if I just bought a polishing pad for my Porter-Cable RO sander. For compounding I bought an 8" compounding pad that chucks into a Milwaukee 1/2" drill (850 RPMs). The key to compounding is low RPMs and high horsepower. The HP does the work, but the surface must not get hot. I don't know what happens to fiberglass when it heats up, but aluminum will turn blue and stay that way forever. I polished my boat with the RO polisher, so I have no experience with straight spin method, but many on this list have had good results with this method. If I were starting over and just doing the boat I would start with the $25 compounding pad and the 1/2" drill. Second, I would try the polishing pad for the RO sander. Rick Langer M15 #337 > Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2005 19:13:37 -0400 > From: <htmills(a)bright.net> > Subject: RE: M_Boats: Penetrol > To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: <003201c56aed$5f4b7020$899edb42@HTM031103> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > The closest thing I have is a Dewalt high-speed angle grinder, but I don't > see any sort of reference to the ability to put a buffing bonnet on it. > > http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=145 > > I'm sure I'll be doing a lot of serious buffing, so if it's not too much > trouble, if you could point me in the right direction I'd be grateful. > > Tod > > M17 #408 > BuscaBrisas

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Penetrol
by Rick Langer 06 Jun '05

06 Jun '05

Hey Craig, I used hardware grade Penetrol, as you suggested. Thanks for getting me started with it. I just gave half of what's left to a friend who was so impressed with the results that he's going to use it on an old Mercedes. This Penetrol is the Marvel Mystery Oil of fiberglass finishes. BTW, for all that have been following this hot story, after soaking my roto-till engine with MMO for three winters, it now runs very well. I was using MMO to free a frozen ring that I was guessing caused the low compression. I didn't re-check the compression because the engine runs fine. Rick Langer M15 #337 > Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 20:25:28 -0400 > From: "Craig F. Honshell" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> > Subject: M_Boats: Penetrol > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: <003701c567d2$c06c8e20$ce41b3cf@D89X0M51> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > > Did you use "marine" Penetrol, or just whatever you could find at the local Lowe's, > whatever? > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Rick Langer > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 10:03 AM > Subject: Penetrol > > This is an old thread, but I wanted to follow up on the advice I was given. > Yesterday I compounded my very oxidized blue hull. The results were ok but > not great. Then I put on a coat of Penetrol. The results are spectacular. > Except for the dings and scratches the blue hull looks new. I wasn't able > to wipe it off after application because it dried too quickly. Next time > I'll do smaller areas at a time. The finish I got is high gloss. > > Thanks, > > Rick Langer > M15 #337 > Hudson River

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michael creem / m12 . . .
by Craig F. Honshell 06 Jun '05

06 Jun '05

Michael, Did you ever have any luck finding that M12 brochure? Thanks! --Craig, chonshell(a)ia4u.net; M12 #58 ----- Original Message ----- From: Craig F. Honshell To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 10:08 PM Subject: reminder for michael creem . . . Thanks, Michael! I just undertook a project like that myself, and I'm still not completely finished, so I know it's a pain. I appreciate your reply and the sail area. Fair winds, Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Creem To: Craig F. Honshell ; For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 8:37 PM Subject: reminder for michael creem . . . I have not forgotten you guys. I own a 12 but have not had an opportunity to sail it for a number of years. Someone questioned what the sq. ft. of sail is. It is 94 sq. ft. and makes the boat fly. It is a handful in windy weather. When and if I find the brochure, I will send you a copy of it. It is just one page. Michael PS The room is filled with boxes of paper which I have to go through and sort out. Most will be discarded. Michael ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig F. Honshell" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 8:09 PM Subject: reminder for michael creem . . . Michael, You asked Keith Harris t' bug ya after the New Year about looking for your Montgomery 12' brochure. I'm just steppin' in for Keith here with the reminder . . . :-) No pressure from me, but if you DO find the time to dig it up, I'd love to have a copy, also. I'd be happy to reimburse you for time, materials and postage. Thanks and fair winds, Craig F. Honshell, chonshell(a)ia4u.net '84 M17 #389; '74 M12 #58

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RE: M_Boats: Topping lift
by Shawn Boles 06 Jun '05

06 Jun '05

Hi: You keep it loose while sailing. Mine just runs through a small block at the aft end of the boom to a cleat on the boom. I loosen it slightly then raise sail. I tighten it before lowering sail. Hope this helps. cheers- Shawn Boles Grey Mist (M17 #276 1978) -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+shawn=ori.org(a)mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+shawn=ori.org@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of david_hill(a)idg.com Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 6:05 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Topping lift Advice please -- I want to put a topping lift on my M17. I have never used one before. Does one leave it attached at all times, even when under sail, or do you disconnect it after raising the sail? Thanks, David Hill M17 Grouper_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Does anyone sail with a bimini top?
by Rick Langer 06 Jun '05

06 Jun '05

Thanks Don, I would appreciated a picture, if you have one. Rick Langer M15 #337 > Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2005 13:11:30 EDT > From: LUDLOWD2(a)aol.com > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Does anyone sail with a bimini top? > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Message-ID: <211.2063525.2fd097c2(a)aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > > Rick > I have the factory bimimi top and I can send some photos if you like. Yes you > can sail with it and I have during a sail with my wife and during a > rainstorm. I keep the bimimi stored aft when trailering but flip it forward over the > companionway hatch once the mast is up. In the forward position, it doesn't > interfer with access to the cabin. To deploy it I have to uncleat the mainsheet > and set the top up then re-cleat the mainsheet. The boom clears the bimini top > but you do lose some tuning ability since it's hard to see the main with the > top up. I have practiced doing a quick reef by dropping the bimini aft onto the > tiller, doing the jiffy reef then swinging the top up again. The factory > bimini top attaches to the combings just a few inches aft of the center combing > cleats. There are four straps which attach to eyes at each end of the combings. > At anchor, I raise the top then I stretch a small nylon tarp like a boom tent > from the bimini forward o the mast to cover the hatch opening. > Don > M-15 Sweet Dream >

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Re: M_Boats: Depth Sounder Transducer location
by Frederick M Berthrong 06 Jun '05

06 Jun '05

Thanks Jerry, That is what I thought is the case but wanted to make absolute certain of it. Fred On Sun, 5 Jun 2005 15:07:54 -0700 "jerry" <jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org> writes: > > there was some core in the transom, and lots in the deck and > interior, but > none in the hull. > > Jerry > jerrymontgomery.org > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Frederick M Berthrong" <fthrong(a)juno.com> > To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2005 7:15 AM > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Depth Sounder Transducer location > > > > Jerry, > > > > I am trying ot locate a depth sounder transducer in hull. I am > told they > > will work fine through solid fibreglass but not through any wood > core. I > > am wanting to install it forward of the keel and as close to > center as > > possible where the deadrise angle is low. Since the transducer > works > > fine when held in the water along side and I can't get any sort of > signal > > from inside (using petroleum jelly as a connecting agent) I am > suspecting > > that there may be some sort of interference. However, I tried it > in all > > sorts of places in hull and still it did not give a signal of any > kind.) > > Before complaining to much to the supplier I want to make sure I > know > > what I am talking about. > > > > Question: On the M-17, 1979 vintage (hull number 300) do you > recall if > > there is any core material embedded in the fibreglass in that > area? Or > > anywhere else in the hull? This would be in the first or second > lap from > > the centerline. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > Fred Berthrong > > M-17 #300 "Dulce" > > > > On Sun, 15 May 2005 13:50:19 -0700 "jerry" > <jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org> > > writes: > > > If I can butt in- monel is much harder than aluminum, tougher > than > > > stainless, and promotes less electrolysis when stailess hardware > is > > > installed on aluminum masts. I used it until sometime in the > 80's, > > > I would > > > guess, when it began to get very hard to find for some reason. > I > > > then went > > > to stainless. > > > > > > I'm sure that there different grades of aluminum available, but > only > > > one is > > > readily available; 356 if my memory is correct. > > > Jerry > > > jerrymontgomery.org > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Rick Langer" <farreach(a)optonline.net> > > > To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > > > Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2005 9:01 AM > > > Subject: M_Boats: Mast Rivets > > > > > > > > > > Monel is probably stronger than aluminum, but not as easy to > > > procure. Are > > > > there different grades of aluminum pop rivets? The rivets > holding > > > the > > > two > > > > fixtures that I took off my mast seemed to be harder and much > > > tighter than > > > > rivets I've cut in the past. > > > > > > > > Thanks guys, > > > > Rick > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 08:59:49 -0700 > > > > > From: Richard Lane <rqlhgl(a)ieee.org> > > > > > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast Rivets > > > > > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > > > > > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > > > > > Message-ID: <4284CEF5.9050209(a)ieee.org> > > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed > > > > > > > > > > Rick Langer wrote: > > > > > > > > > > >Are the rivets used to hold fixtures to the mast aluminum > or > > > are they > > > > > >something else like stainless? I know they are not > magnetic > > > steel. > > > > > > > > > > > >Thanks, > > > > > >Rick Langer > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > >http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > The originals were Monel I believe. > > > > > Dick > > > > >> Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 15:44:55 -0400 > > > > > From: chbenneck(a)juno.com > > > > > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast Rivets > > > > > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > > > > > Message-ID: <20050513.165849.2584.2.chbenneck(a)juno.com> > > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > > > > > > > > > Hi Rick, > > > > > > > > > > The rivets holding the hardware on the mast are aluminum > pop > > > rivets. > > > > > > > > > > When I rebuilt my mast I drilled all the rivets out so that > I > > > could > > > > > remove the old hardware and reapply it to the new mast. > > > > > > > > > > Connie > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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Re: M_Boats: Blisters
by chbenneck＠juno.com 06 Jun '05

06 Jun '05

Hi Rachel, You hit a great big BINGO. Amsterdam Shipyard G. DeVries Lentsch is the yard that built my Tripp-Lentsch. They also built a small Rhodes design, as I recall; about 25 or 26 feet in length. Is that what you are looking at? DeVries Lentsch, generally built yachts in the 50' and up sizes, - mostly up - and as I mentioned before were one of the top three yards in Europe for high quality yachts, their competitors for the big jobs being, Camper & Nicholson, and Abeking & Rassmussen. DeVries Lentsch with no experience in fiberglass, and wanting to get into a new market area - used Fokker Aircraft, the Dutch aircraft manufacturing company, as fiberglass consultants - to get into the fiberglass boat business, and did it properly, in a temperature and humidity controlled shop. They built a whole new facility in Vianen, Netherlands (their main yard was in Amsterdam), just to do the fiberglass work. They built 50 Tripp-Lentsches (a Bill Tripp design, who also designed the Bermuda 40 for Hinkley, and the Northeast 38 for Le Compte, plus several smaller designs for other Dutch builders) and mine was the last one built: Number 50. At that point G. DeVries Lentsch went into bankruptcy. They had overextended themselves with the building of the whole new Vianen facility; the fiberglass boat business sales didn't materialize as rapidly as expected in their main market, the USA, .............and they lost a contract to a competitor for a large yacht - their bread and butter. Their Banks called their loans, they had liquidity problems, and that was the end of Amsterdam Shipyard, G. DeVries-Lentsch, jr. Bill Tripp had a lot of problems with the smaller Dutch builders not following his designs. They substituted iron keels for the lead that was specified, and pulled other stunts. Bill Tripp finally got fed up and said no Dutch builder was going to get another of his designs. He gave sole rights to produce Bill Tripp designs to the DeDood Shipyard in Bremen, Germany - upstream and across the Weser River from Abeking & Rassmussen. DeDood built only in wood. The smaller Dutch yards were jumping into fiberglass with both feet; learning as they went. I used to visit the Amsterdam Boat Show (and almost every other one in Europe) every year. A side advantage when one has a job that requires a lot of traveling! In '64, '65, '66 when you went into the exhibition hall, it reeked of uncured polyester. You needed a couple of Heinekens to get past the smell........, but then almost everyone was building in fiberglass, except for the few that were still making steel hulled, hard chined vessels. So, from my experience with my Tripp-Lentsch, my guess is that your Phil Rhodes ship hull, built by G. DeVries-Lentsch should be blister free. ............and I don't think - though I don't know for certain - that G. DeVries-Lentsch ever had anyone else build hulls for them. Your boat might have been part of the learning process that G. DeVries-Lentsch went through then building the Tripp-Lentsch 29s, and I know that they had a larger Tripp design ready to build - in the 37 foot size. We picked our boat up at the Vianen yard, and then went via Amsterdam-Rhine Canal to Amsterdam to the G. DeVries-Lentsch yard, where we got the mast stepped. Then we motored around the bottom of the Isselmeer to the East side where we called Harderwijk home port for a month, and learned to play with the new toy. The area where we first sailed is now a new polder - solid land - with new farms, new towns, and a city........... I used to fly over it coming into Amsterdam, and marvel. I used to sail where there are now green fields, roads, towns, ......... Let me know what you find when you inspect it. Connie

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