May 2005 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Doug Kelch & Craig Honshell
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 15 May '05

15 May '05

My computer (it was probably me) has deleted some of my Email addresses. Doug & Craig, please Email me off list. I have some questions about pictures I've been sent. Bill

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RE: M_Boats: New M-15 trailer from Pacific
by bobjudy2＠comcast.net 14 May '05

14 May '05

Norm, I had an (almost) similar experience on my new Pacific trailer. When I first got it home, I decided to check the nuts on the bunks and found a couple that were loose. The bunk had dropped a bit, but no big problem, since I had the boat waiting in the water. I guess the factory assumes the new owner may want to do some adjustments. I have since added torque checking to my trailer maintence list. Bob m15 #208 > Hi, Norm > > This may be of value: > > https://www.logsa.army.mil/WEB-PAGE/2000/572/572-56-59.pdf > > You want to try to determine what kind of bolt you are looking at. Marks on > the head of the bolt often will tell you what kind (Grade 2, 5, 8, etc) it > is. The page will help you identify the type and then it has a table of > recommended torques. I would guess that they are at least Grade 5 on your > trailer, but best to confirm. > > Tod > > -----Original Message----- > From: montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net(a)mailman.xmission.com > [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com] On > Behalf Of Norm Lane > Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 12:01 PM > To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats' > Subject: RE: M_Boats: New M-15 trailer from Pacific > > > Remember I said I thought the nuts & bolts on the new trailer were ok? > > http://share.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=EeAMWblu3atm7og > > I guess I need to buy a torque wrench. Anyone know how hard to tighten these > things? > > Norm > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: Mast Rivets
by chbenneck＠juno.com 14 May '05

14 May '05

Hi Rick, The rivets holding the hardware on the mast are aluminum pop rivets. When I rebuilt my mast I drilled all the rivets out so that I could remove the old hardware and reapply it to the new mast. Connie

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New M-15 trailer from Pacific
by Norm Lane 14 May '05

14 May '05

I just got a new trailer for my M-15. I called Montgomery and they said to call Pacific directly and say that they had referred me. http://www.pacifictrailers.com/ The price turned out to be $1377 rather than the $1200 quoted on the Montgomery website. On the other hand, it has an extendable tongue, which isn't mentioned on the website. Here are some pics. http://share.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=EeAMWblu3atm7mY Most of the trailer is bolted together. I was taken aback at first but they're all nylock nuts so it's probably ok. At least I'll be able to adjust the bunks. They mounted the winch upside down! It would work if there was an eyebolt on the stem of the boat, but there isn't. Those nuts really hold and I have to find a longer wrench to move it. The 'keel guide' is useless. It's not high enough to work. I ended up with the boat sitting across the top of it and had to horse it around to get it to nest into the guide. I'll add the PVC guides described on the MOSG website. Oh, that extendable tongue will slide all the way out if you aren't carefull. I was parked on a slight incline without realizing it and ended up chasing the boat across the parking lot. No harm done, other than to my dignity, but it could have been a disaster. Norm Lane "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity." - 'Hanlon's Razor' Robert Heinlein

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Re: M_Boats: Traveler
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 14 May '05

14 May '05

In a message dated 5/13/2005 4:38:47 PM Pacific Standard Time, jlgonzalez(a)san.rr.com writes: I'll get Bill L. photos of the new rig next time I'm out on the water. Hi John... I recently bought a DVD from www.bennettmarine.com called Sail Trimming by Peter Bateman (Their #R129DVD). Most of the DVD is pretty normal stuff until it came to the information on how to use the traveler to increase pointing ability and speed. May not be to practical on our craft as it requires moving the car to increase point and then back it off to allow speed to build to do it again. Could be done with one crew person attending to the traveler. Simplified, after setting the foresail, pull the traveler to windward until the speed begins to slack and then release it some to build speed again, all the while pointing higher when you pull in on the traveler car and bearing off when easing off. After building speed, bring it to windward and point higher again, etc. Now, bear in mind, I'm not a racer nor have I ever messed with a traveler except to ease off to reduce healing. Probably someone on the list can help with the finer points of traveler useage. I'll get the photos posted in your album, right away after you send them and thanks. Bill M-17 SF

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Traveler
by John L. Gonzalez 13 May '05

13 May '05

For those who've considered moving their mainsheet and traveler from their factory-stock positions to the setup created by Bert Feldman on Kokopelli, described in the Winter '95 Montgomery Owners' Newsletter, now may be the time: Defender.com has the mainsheet traveler car (Harken model 211) on sale for $75 (list price is $290). The 211 traveler car is better than the one used by Bert (Harken model 210), in that you don't need to release the leeward sheet to bring the car to windward; the 211 car incorporates a very clever mechanism that senses the windward pressure and releases the leeward cam cleat. I mounted the car on the high beam track just as Bert did, forward of cockpit lockers, and I mounted a Harken 362 block with cam cleat for my mainsheet on the car and made minor changes to the mainsheet blocks on the boom. I've only been out once with the new rig, but was very pleased: with the mainsheet block removed from the bridgedeck, the mainsheet no longer crosses my legs when I sit forward against the bulkhead (my favored sailing seat) in the cockpit and is out of the way for ingress and egress of the cabin. Also, I like being rid of the transom traveler, which interferes with my kids getting in and out of the water via the transom ladder. I assume that I'll have improved sail control, too, with a traveler whose position I can set, but I'm just learning the finer points of sail trim. I'll get Bill L. photos of the new rig next time I'm out on the water. Sincerely, John Gonzalez M-15, Bella (628) La Jolla, CA

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Re: M_Boats: Running rigging
by Rik Sandberg 13 May '05

13 May '05

Rick, When we trailer our 15, we tie the sail to the boom and slide boom and sail in the cabin together. Both halyards are just clipped end to end and tied to their cleats. I disconnect the forestay, (johnson lever) but the shrouds stay connected. I have a furling jib (not reefing) which attaches separately from the forestay. This also stows below. With a little creative use of half a dozen bungies to hold your shrouds, forestay and such, you should be able to rig and unrig in 15 minutes or so. Rik -----Original Message----- From: Rick Langer <farreach(a)optonline.net> Sent: May 13, 2005 10:40 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Running rigging Well it only took me a year, but I figured that if I could leave as much of the running rigging rigged that I could save time setting up. The last time I demasted I left the two halyards and the jib downhaul in place. This should save time and tangles. Does anyone do anything else along these lines (npi) to assist in setup and take down? I made a pair of shroud rollers(50"x1 1/4", white oak) that do protect the sails and look very nautical, but even better, when the mast is down the rollers do a very good job of holding the shrouds in place. There is no more mess of loops in the cockpit. Rick Langer M15 #337 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: New member, long-time M15 owner
by Harvey G Wilson 13 May '05

13 May '05

Hi Bobby and welcome to the group!! Not knowing the type of trailer that you have, I'll let the M-15 owners advise yoy there..'cept to say be sure that the bearings aer greased...AND that the wheel nuts can be removed if you get a flat!!! My M-17 trailer takes radial tires, and yours may as well. I got my trailer hitch at U-Haul...a lot cheaper then at the dealer, and it was in stock for my Aerostar. It was a frame mounted hitch...and I got a tranny cooler for my auto tranny, as towing capacity for the 3L iter engine was 3500 pounds, and th M-17 probably weighs 2500. You may not need it for the much lighter M-15. As to your "old" engine...well...don't write it off. I'm a British Seagull lover, and my "neest" engine is a 1992 model, oldest is a 1969 model. 2 stroke engines are easy to fix. You may have crudded up gear oil in the tranny box, or varnish in your carb. If the carb is OK, I would stick it in a barrel of water and run it for an hour or so with carb cleaner in the fuel mis. I like to use synthetic oil in my Seagulls, even tho it's not necessary. Put a little extra oil in the cleaning fuel mix..25% at least. This will help lubricate it. n fact, it might be a good idea to squirt sone Fogging Oil ( available at West Marine/ BoatUS, etc) thru the spark plug hole and turn it over a fer times to pre-lubricate it. A new spark plug is a definite help as well!! That's the proceedure that I do at the start of every season. To verify that you have spark, put the NEW plug in the plug boot and hold the metal body of the plug to a metal part of the motor, then pull the starter rope You _should_ see a nice, fat spark. I then spray some WD-40 into the spark plug hole and _Immediately_ screw in the plug and pull the starter rope. Even if the carb is fouled, the motor will fire for a few revs, and you'll know that you have a fuel problem. Good luck..and again...welcome to a fine group of Monty lovers!! Harvey/ Ga M-17 Stargazer #294

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Mast Rivets
by Rick Langer 13 May '05

13 May '05

Are the rivets used to hold fixtures to the mast aluminum or are they something else like stainless? I know they are not magnetic steel. Thanks, Rick Langer

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Running rigging
by Rick Langer 13 May '05

13 May '05

Well it only took me a year, but I figured that if I could leave as much of the running rigging rigged that I could save time setting up. The last time I demasted I left the two halyards and the jib downhaul in place. This should save time and tangles. Does anyone do anything else along these lines (npi) to assist in setup and take down? I made a pair of shroud rollers(50"x1 1/4", white oak) that do protect the sails and look very nautical, but even better, when the mast is down the rollers do a very good job of holding the shrouds in place. There is no more mess of loops in the cockpit. Rick Langer M15 #337

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