May 2005 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: Fixing 1/4" hole in hull
by chbenneck＠juno.com 20 May '05

20 May '05

Hi David, Your local hardware store should have a tube of two part 5 minute epoxy. It would have two tubes: one the resin and the second the hardener. These tubes have pistons in the tubes with a solid part on top, so that when you press on the top, equal amounts of epoxy resin and hardener will be forced from the tubes. This epoxy material is clear in color, i.e., will be light blond in color when hardened. To add color to it you could try mixing in a bit of dry plaster, that would give you a slightly heavier consistency of the material, and probably a closer color match to the hull color. Remember, if you stand 50 feet away from the boat you'll never see the spot. Place a piece of masking tape over the hole on the inside of the boat to keep your epoxy putty from dripping down the inside hull wall. My approach would be to fill the hole just a bit, leaving space on the outside for another small filling to level out the material, after the first material has hardened. Also mask off the area around the hole on the outside with masking tape to contain any smears, drips, or other problems that may occur. Epoxy can be worked using a fine file, or with sandpaper to achieve a level surface. Connie M15 #400

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Fixing 1/4" hole in hull
by David W. Wood 20 May '05

20 May '05

The former owner of my M-15 thought it would be a good idea to drill a hole in the hull to fasten a small shelf inside the cabin. I've removed the shelf, but now I have a 1/4" hole (above the water line) in my hull which I'd like to fill. I know less than nothing about fiberglass/gelcoat repairs, and am hoping there's a product which will allow me to fill this hole and do other minor scrape/gouge repairs without a lot of fuss. Perhaps I'm dreaming here, but something I can squeeze out of tube and spread on with a putty knife, and then sand and buff would be ideal. Maybe with some temporary backing to hold the plug in place while it cures. Any suggestions? I live nowhere near any marine supply shops, so I'll have to order this product online or via mail order. I found this on the West Marine web site: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay? storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=119724&catalogId=10001 &classNum=325&subdeptNum=11160&storeNum=4 Will it do what I want? Thanks =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= David W. Wood -=- dwood(a)dwoodworks.com 1981 M15 -=- Hull #163

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RE: M_Boats: Re: Forcing a centerboard into the keel
by RandyG 18 May '05

18 May '05

Brian, Our situation was different than yours, but I thought I would share what I learned. We just changed the centerboard on our 1988 M17. The cb on our M17 is the thinner, lighter, fiberglass cb, but similar in principle to your cast iron cb. Our cb was also stuck up in the trunk, very stuck! In removing the old cb I learned that the ballast is all around the centerboard trunk/cavity of the keel. This makes the cb trunk are pretty tough! But if it was to be damaged, the cb trunk/cavity would be very hard to repair. Not a lot of room to work. The cb itself is relatively easy to remove, repair, replace. But if work needs to be done to the trunk area, that would be a pretty big job. I think the worst cb situation you could find on a 17 would be one where water has leaked into the keel and caused the trunk to swell narrow and pinch the cb. Other the the trunk swelling, I think most other cb problems are repairable. There are several trick on how best to remove the cb. I used the one detailed on Bill's funtigo site "Why Women Live Longer Than Men", where you slide the boat back on the trailer to allow the cb to swing full down. I think our 17 sits higher on the trailer than some as I did not need to raise the trailer as outlined in the "How To". M17's are great boats! I hope this one works out for you. I think it might be hard to tell why the cast iron cb is stuck up in the trunk with the 17 sitting on the trailer. On the fiberglass cb boats, both 15's and 17's, from my experience, the fiberglass cb is sloppy in the trunk and you can wiggle it from side to side and get a "clunk" sound. Randy Graves M17 #410 ________________________________ From: montgomery_boats-bounces+randyg=cite.nic.edu(a)mailman.xmission.com on behalf of Brian Gilbert Sent: Tue 5/17/2005 11:08 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Re: Forcing a centerboard into the keel Hi Folks: OK, here's the story: I'm driving down to look at a Monty 17 this Thursday. 1979 model- The boat looks good from the photos, and sounds good from the description, except for one disturbing detail. She sat in the water for three years, and when the current owner went to get the boat out of the water, the center board wouldn't retract. So he forced the centerboard into the slot by driving the boat onto the trailer. I'm concerned that I'm facing a huge amount of work getting this keel unstuck, or in the worst case, the centerboard may have cracked or split the trunk. The current owner thinks this is a minor problem caused by weeds/slime/misc growth on the canterboard. He might be right, but if it's stuck for another reason... like corrosion... this'll be a huge and expensive repair. Were the 1979 keels cast iron? Does anyone have any thoughts about this? Thanks very much BG -- Brian Gilbert Marine Media Author, "Fix It And Sail" (423)876-9990 3404 Hartford Drive Chattanooga, TN 37415 www.sailingsmall.com _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Montgomery Wallpaper
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 18 May '05

18 May '05

Hi All, There are four photos I use as wallpaper on both the Photo Site and my own computer. So, I made a new album called "Montgomery Wallpaper" it's up on the site with two pics by Doug Kelch and one each by Randy Graves and Craig Honshell. Enjoy the photos - Bill http://www.funtigo.com/MSOG?b=246567&c=1789789&p=start

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Re: M_Boats: Re: Forcing a centerboard into the keel
by Harvey G Wilson 17 May '05

17 May '05

Hi Brian.. Stargazer's keel is iron. There should be lots of info on keel cleanup and repair in the archives. Harvey/ Ga M-17 Stargazer #294

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Re: M_Boats: Mast Rivets
by chbenneck＠juno.com 17 May '05

17 May '05

Hi Jerry, When I drilled out the rivets on my mast, as I started to rebuild the new one, they were aluminum. I center punched each pin and then drilled carefully. Having drilled stainless, and being well aware of how difficult it can be with work hardening, etc. removing my rivets was easy as could be. The heads came off nicely, and the remainder came out with a few light taps on the end of a pin punch. Maybe, my mast wasn't an original that you made either. I like your reasoning for using monel rivets, but they weren't available at my hardware store. Connie

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Re: M_Boats: Second Reef
by LUDLOWD2＠aol.com 17 May '05

17 May '05

George: I had the second reef installed on my relatively new EP main. I looked at a few photos of M-15's with a second reef and pointed to a spot and told the sail maker, put it here. It is fairly deep, just a little less than the distance that the first reef is from the boom to the second reef. In all honesty, i've never used the second reef but there it is, rigged and ready. My thoughts are that if I need the second reef, I'm heading to safe harbor in a hurry, probably with the jib down, the hatch covers closed, my lifejacket and safety harness on, and my trusty 2HP Honda running. I've thought about getting a "storm jib" say 70% but heck, I'm not going to the bow in those conditions to put it up. and I'm not going to start out sailing in a 15 ft boat in those conditions with the storm jib on. Most likely, I'll get caught one day with the 150 up when a summer t'storm catches me. Then I'll use the jib downhaul, and maybe put the second reef in. I' ran the 20 + mile Dauphin Island Race last year in 20+ knots with the first reef and the 110 and found I needed the power to hammer through the waves. I feathered the main in the gusts and she stayed on her feet. I have tried "jib only" but never in 25+ knot winds. I'm not sure why you need the second reef but if it's for insurance, consider how the boat is going to handle in those conditions and whether you will fly your jib or not. Fair winds, good company, and have a nice sail. Don

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Storm Petrel's Drifter
by Rick Langer 17 May '05

17 May '05

Another good reason not to have a jib furler. Bill, can one be made one from a spinaker? I have no need or desire to mess about with a spinaker on my boat and I just removed most of the hardware needed to fly one. The drifter looks much easier to handle than a spinaker. Can you provide measurements? Thanks, Rick Langer M15 #337

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Re: M_Boats: New Stuff on the Photo Site
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 16 May '05

16 May '05

In a message dated 5/16/2005 3:08:21 AM Pacific Standard Time, TOMMYVAL(a)aol.com writes: I tried again last nite from a different computer and bingo everything worked. I will try again from my main computer today and see if I can get in. I'll let you know Thanks Gary I did get an Email back from Funtigo. Thought it was an auto prompted response. Said I should clean out my browser cache. I never have a problem getting to the public side of the site. Sometimes I cant get into the passworded side. I did as they suggested. Cant say as how it made any difference. - Bill

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Re: M_Boats: Does anyone sail with a bimini top?
by LUDLOWD2＠aol.com 16 May '05

16 May '05

Brian: M-15 # 620 (Sweet Dream) came with a factory bimini that works when sailing. Look at the Bella pictures on the MSOG photo (funtigo) site, it's the same set-up. I store the bimini forward over the hatch when not in use so I have to move the mainsheet from the bridgedeck cleat to get it set up then I put the mainsheet back. Only takes a minute. Don

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