April 2005 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: launching
by chbenneck＠juno.com 10 Apr '05

10 Apr '05

Hi Bo, I need at least four feet of water depth to launch an M15 from my Trailrite trailer You might succeed with a bit less by pushing and shoving. A sloping ramp helps. Then once the stern is in the water and starts floating, pushing the bow off the rest of the way, so that the M15 is afloat, becomes easy. I've only launched from regular, hard, launching ramps. Connie M15 #400

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Re: M_Boats: launching
by LUDLOWD2＠aol.com 10 Apr '05

10 Apr '05

With the new non-tilting Pacific trailers, you need to cover the top of the fenders with 1" of water and she'll float off. As I remember, this is about 22". I put a mark on my boat hook at that depth and check any new ramp that way. Good luck, Don

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Small Boat Journal
by William B. Riker 10 Apr '05

10 Apr '05

I would like to offer my whole collection, 39 issues, to an M-boater. I have a complete collection from Jan 1985 (6 issues per year) until it morphed into "Boat Journal" in 1991, including the issue with Larry Brown's review of the Montgomery 15 and Compac 16. Two other M-listers contacted me off-list and are thinking about it. Here's my offer: I have a good idea what they are worth, but someone on ebay got $15.50 for all 6 1987 issues, which includes the seller's $3.50 shipping cost. So he's getting $12.00 for the magazines. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem <http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=280&item=6953683218& rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW> &category=280&item=6953683218&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW At $12.00/year for all 6 years (I'll throw in the 3 1991 "Boat Journal" transition issues) for the magazines plus about $20 for shipping 20 lbs. comes to about $92. But I'll take $75 and pay the shipping. Or make me an offer. Thanks, Bill Riker M15 - #184 Storm Petrel

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launching
by Rick Langer 10 Apr '05

10 Apr '05

bo, The answer to your question is enough water to get her off the trailer. The M15 will float in 15 inches of water (theoretical and unloaded), but the essential question is how high does your trailer lift the boat. If you have a marked waterline measure how high it is off the road and that's how much water you need. If you don't have a marked waterline measure the height of the bottom of the keel and add 15 inches to that. You seem like an adventurous guy, launching from the beach and all, so why don't you go out at low tide and dig some holes for the trailer wheels to drop into. That way you can launch in a minimum of water. On a more serious note, a tongue extension might be in order. With one you can get the tow vehicle another 5 or 6 feet away from the boat and therefore get the boat in deeper water. I don't have one, but having seen the one that Connie made for his M15 trailer, I figure it's pretty much doable. Besides being able to access some ramps that would otherwise be unusable the extension helps you keep the tow vehicle and rear wheels out of the water. Salt water is a killer to metal parts like brakes and traction should be better also. Rick Langer M15 #337 Hudson River > Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 19:40:20 -0400 > From: "bo Swartwout" <caboswart(a)hotmail.com> > Subject: M_Boats: launching > To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: <BAY106-DAV9296F6EE29864163BD33FA3300(a)phx.gbl> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > After the long New England winter I got the itch today to launch my new to me 15. I trailered down to the beach, rigged and proceeded to launch across the beach only to find it wasn't deep enough. I have a Dilly tilt trailer and that didn't help. How much water is needed to float a 15 off the trailerIt was good rigging practice anyway. > Thanks for any info. > >

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Trailer Keel Rollers
by Rick Langer 07 Apr '05

07 Apr '05

Hey Tod, That's a first rate trailer upgrade. I bet it hurt a little bit submerging that nice work in dirty ramp water. Your website has given me some good ideas. Thanks Tod and Don, Rick Langer > Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2005 18:03:50 -0400 > From: <htmills(a)bright.net> > Subject: RE: M_Boats: Trailer Keel Rollers > To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: <001201c53af4$84ad0550$6188db42@HTM031103> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Rick, > > Although my boat is a 17, I was faced with adding keel rollers, not to > replace a board, > but to replace a single roller that was over loaded. My trailrite trailer > originally > had but one, just aft of the first cross-channel, and it was severely over > loaded. > > When I bought the boat, I saw that the rubber roller was split and the shaft > was bent, so I merely replaced them. Shortly after, the new roller was in > the same > sorry condition. So.... > > I made up a frame upon which four rollers were mounted, two aft of the c/b, > one under > the c/b about 3/4" lower, the amount the c/b protrudes, and one fwd of the > c/b. > > The frame height w/ respect to the bunks is adjustable with shims. I have > it set up so > that the bulk of the weight rests on the rollers. > > I also added keel guides to help get the boat centered on the trailer. > > Since these mods, no more bent rollers and getting the boat on the trailer > is much easier. > > Photo at: http://www.todspages.net/images/BBd01a-TrailerKeelGuides.jpg > > Lastly, I noticed that some gelcoat on the corner of a strake on each side > was taking a > bit of a beating thanks to years of too concentrated of a load, so I slipped > 1/2" > closed-cell foam pads between the bunk carpeting and the wooden bunk board. > > Tod > M17 #408 > BuscaBrisas

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RE: M_Boats: Trailer Keel Rollers
by Don Haas 07 Apr '05

07 Apr '05

Rick; I sent you an off-list message with a picture attachment showing the keel roller placement. Later I remembered that the same pictures are on the MSOG site at the link below... http://www.msog.org/how-to/keelguide/haas_keel_guide.cfm. Don Haas, M15-248 Dream Catcher dshaas(a)sprintmail.com Frodo failed. Bush has the ring. > [Original Message] > From: Rick Langer <farreach(a)optonline.net> > To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Date: 4/6/2005 7:39:01 AM > Subject: M_Boats: Trailer Keel Rollers > > I need advice on keel rollers. My trailer has a 2x8 attached to the frame > sections which the keel sets on. I'm thinking that rollers would make > retrival easier. If I mount the rollers on the cross frames they will end > up being about 3" aft of the front of the keel and about 4" forward of the > aft end of the keel. This seems a little too close to the ends of the keel > for comfort. > > Where is the best place to support the keel? > What size rollers should I use? > How much of the boats weight should bear on the rollers and how much on the > bunks that support the hull? > > Thanks, > > Rick Langer > M15 #337 > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: Sailing in Croatia
by chbenneck＠juno.com 06 Apr '05

06 Apr '05

Hi Craig, Yes, we used to sail the upper Yugoslavian coast and the islands. I would get our 29 footer trucked across the Alps to Grado,Italy, from our home base, the Chiemsee - a large lake between Munich and Salzburg. After stepping the mast and getting shipshape again, we'd sail across the Adriatic to Piran, Yugoslavia, clearing customs, (and loading up on Duty Free ..........) before heading down the Istrian Peninsula to Pula, and then down into the islands; Mali Losin, Susak, Dugi Otok, to Zadar. We got as far south as Siebenik, before our -then good old two week long vacations ended, and we had to head home again. A spectacular geographic area. The Italian side of the Adriatic is quite shoal, but drops off as you head East and you get to the Yugoslavian coast. Then it's steep to rocky shores and islands. The major problem (in '73 - the last time we sailed there) was no supplies available outside of major cities. The islands have nothing - no fuel, no food, and hardly any water. (cistern under the church at the top of the island) ................and you'd better have a diesel (which I didn't!) because diesel fuel is all that is available in harbors pretty much throughout Europe (diesel is tax free). If you need gasoline, then you have to hike to the gas station at the edge of town (90 degrees - not a cloud in the sky) and pay automobile prices for fuel. Connie

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Trailer Keel Rollers
by Rick Langer 06 Apr '05

06 Apr '05

I need advice on keel rollers. My trailer has a 2x8 attached to the frame sections which the keel sets on. I'm thinking that rollers would make retrival easier. If I mount the rollers on the cross frames they will end up being about 3" aft of the front of the keel and about 4" forward of the aft end of the keel. This seems a little too close to the ends of the keel for comfort. Where is the best place to support the keel? What size rollers should I use? How much of the boats weight should bear on the rollers and how much on the bunks that support the hull? Thanks, Rick Langer M15 #337

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Re: M_Boats: Sealing a non-Gelcoat M15 Locker
by chbenneck＠juno.com 06 Apr '05

06 Apr '05

Hi Peter, I added a seal to both my sail locker lids. Find a closed cell (so that it doesn't absorb water) adhesive backed foam tape about 3/4" wide. I applied it to the underside of the sail locker lids to make a tight seal when the lids were closed - with a hasp - so they only open when I want them to open. The foam tape is about 1/4" thick, so it should seal the edge properly. If you still find problems, add a second layer where needed ......... Connie M15 #400

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Sealing a non-Gelcoat M15 Locker
by Peter Deffenbacher 06 Apr '05

06 Apr '05

Hello all, I have a M15 that has cabin lockers that leak down and sometimes up (but that's another story). The lockers I have on my M15 need to be sealed so no water goes up or down, as they have in the past. Does anyone know of a fiberglass chemical that I could use to seal the lockers that have a non-Gelcoat finish? Thanks in advance, Peter

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