August 2004 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

M-15 Reviewed In SCA
by Steve R. 14 Aug '04

14 Aug '04

It is the Sept./Oct. issue. A great review. Jerry, Connie, Randy, Giles, John Harris and Robert Becker are quoted. The test boat is owned by Bill Hartwick. steve Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY

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Re: M_Boats: boat ramp strategies
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 14 Aug '04

14 Aug '04

Here's the solution to "What to do with the boat while parking the car." I have used an item called The Anchor Buddy on a couple of power boats. Go To: http://www.anchorbuddy.com/ You'll see the anchor buddy is basically a stretch anchor line. Motor out, set the anchor in 10-20 foot of water, motor back in to wading depth, jump off with your bow line and let the boat back out to the anchor... tie off the bow line on shore. When you want back on the boat, pull her in. No worries about rocks or shore dings. HOWEVER, I've used this on low freeboard boats. It's possibly strong enough to accept the wind against a high freeboard. But, I've not tested it. I'll be getting one for Tiperary. If you dont have yours before I do, I'll report back about mine... If you do get one, let us know if it withstands the winds. Regards, Bill M-17 SF Bay

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Boom length
by David Wood 14 Aug '04

14 Aug '04

> Does anyone have a picture > (kinda close up) of the normal, stock hardware on the aft end of their > boom?? Yeah! I'd like to see that as well! In fact, wouldn't it be great if someone with a relatively "stock" Montgomery were to document all the various fittings etc. of the boat in excruciating detail and post the pictures at the MSOG site as sort of a baseline reference for all us who have, um, "improved" boats? It would be a great resource. Anybody out there with an original boat and far too much time on their hands? =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= David W. Wood -=- dwood(a)woodatwork.com 1981 M15 -=- Hull #163

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Re: M_Boats: Boom length
by chbenneck＠juno.com 14 Aug '04

14 Aug '04

Hi Rik, My boom fits (after you know the drill) into the cabin. You have to get one end of the boom up into the bow - just under the deck - to gain maximum length. Then it slides in nicely. When trailering, I leave the main furled on the boom, and stow the boom in the cabin. Makes life easier at the launching ramp when you only have to thread slides from the main into the mast, and not have to do the same with the boom. Connie M15 #400

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Re: M_Boats: boat ramp strategies
by IDCLLC＠aol.com 14 Aug '04

14 Aug '04

In a message dated 8/13/2004 1:11:35 AM Central Standard Time, haudsley(a)tranquility.net writes: Anyway, sounds to me like Steve needs an extension on his trailer tongue, like the ones the big boats use. Add another 10' or so and she should float off. That sounds like a better solution than letting her bounce off the bottom. In a chop, that could get ugly! Howard The problem is not how to get the boat on and off of the trailer. The problem is what to do with the boat while moving the car. Steve

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Re: M_Boats: M_15 VS CP 16
by ddaystrom＠comcast.net 14 Aug '04

14 Aug '04

Lack of storage space was another reason why I sold my CP16. One side benefit of the M17 is that my wife is more comfortable and really enjoys going sailing more often. -alw -------------- Original message -------------- > Irv > There was a guy on the TrailerSailor Bulletin Board site that was running a > new (to him) CP-16 on the Chesapeak. Complained that the boat wasn't weatherly > and had problems tacking into currents (slow boat - fast currents) Several > folks made suggestions but the best was to sell the boat and buy an M-15. > Don > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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RE: M_Boats: Boom length
by RandyG 14 Aug '04

14 Aug '04

Rik, Our boom will just fit inside the cabin on our M-15 (#407) if I raise it up a bit so that one end goes up into the peak of the bow. I don't have to raise it up much, just a bit. Once it is inside I can move it over to one side of the cabin. Randy G. ________________________________ From: montgomery_boats-bounces+randyg=cite.nic.edu(a)mailman.xmission.com on behalf of Rik Sandberg Sent: Fri 8/13/2004 1:02 PM To: Montgomery list Subject: M_Boats: Boom length Hello M list, Been looking at the pictures on the M-15 site and have come to the conclusion that the booms on new M-15s are longer than the boom on my M-15. I wonder, can everybody else get their boom into their cabin? Mine will go inside by about an inch. I'm asking because either my sail is a bit large, or my boom is a bit short. When I pull my main outhaul up tight there is barely any space at all left between the leech cringle and the eye at the end of the boom. In fact, it might be that I could pull the outhaul further (not much) if I had more room. Haven't measured the boom yet, guess I should have before I asked the question. Rik _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: New owner -- looking for advice (long)
by IDCLLC＠aol.com 14 Aug '04

14 Aug '04

About mainsheet placement- For what it's worth, I've got both arrangements, and switch from one to the other depending on our needs. If I'm solo, sailing spiritedly, or the conditions are challenging, the midboom sheeting is best for our Potter (whose stock sheeting is practically identical to the M-15s). I find it's much easier to adjust and respond to gusts, among other things. However, when I have passengers, end boom sheeting makes the cockpit far more accommodating. This is accomplished by running the sheet from the end of the boom to a small block on the aft end of the tiller, then forward to a jam cleat mounted on top of the tiller, or simply hold it in your hand. In mild conditions (the usual for family sailing) this single part arrangement works fine. If you need more pulling power, run the sheet from an eye on the tiller, up to the first block on the boom, and back down to your tiller block. You can make these mods for very little money, and switch from one to the other in less than five minutes. Incidentally, if our boat is crowded with passengers, we often leave off the jib to provide more room. It's not fast, but far more accommodating. Cheers Steve Tyree, P-15 In a message dated 8/13/2004 9:17:13 PM Central Standard Time, doug_kelch(a)yahoo.com writes: 2)Mainsheet cleating - lots of trade-offs here - sheeting at the end of the boom or near at the stern clears the cockpit for better creature comfort in the cockpit with more than one person. If you return the mainsheet cleat to the bridge deck it interferes with your passengers lower legs when adjusting the main or moving across the cockpit on a tack or jibe. The Bridge deck provides better sail shape control than the stern mount.

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Re: M_Boats: At the launch ramp
by IDCLLC＠aol.com 14 Aug '04

14 Aug '04

Very ingenious Doug. I bet you've done this before! I have saved it for future reference. Cheers Steve Tyree, P-15 In a message dated 8/13/2004 7:14:23 PM Central Standard Time, doug_kelch(a)yahoo.com writes: This is tough problem. I have done this a couple of times using long lines, snatch blocks and a small vinyl coated lead anchor. First case was a ramp on the ICW in Savannah GA - no immediate dock with ramp "protected" by rip rap. There was a dock about 70 ft away from the ramp out in the ICW. I used the 200 ft anchor line to run from the bow cleat long the side of the M15 along inside the stern clear but not cleated. The line continued to the dock (you could walk to the dock on a long bridge)through a snatch block attached to the dock back to the trailer. A second 20 foot bow line was also attached for short term control. Launch the boat as normal holding both lines - making sure everything is running free. Take up the slack on the long line to the dock and if everything looks OK toss the short bow line on to the deck (usually falls in the water but so what) and haul away. When the boat is floating clear about 1/2 way to the dock (wind, current considerations and stuff)I walk around to the dock taking up the slack line. At the dock will give slack on the line, reach down and flip the line and it will usually hop off of the slot by the stern cleat and then bring it in bow on. Reversing this requires two long lines to get the bow line all the way to the trailer. Unless there is no cross current or wind that would cause a loss of control if you didn't have lines to both bow and stern. Next case is Nothing to tie to and walk to out from the dock. I have an aluminum stern ladder which I can use and at most ramps the M15 keel will be clear of the bottom with the water depth slightly above the knees with the stern towards land. So - how to arrange this? The vinyl covered anchor will serve as the outer pulling point. I will try to describe the end goal first. Picture the boat pleasantly at anchor 15 ft off shore. The anchor line routing is unusual however. Consider a line running from the anchor to a block at the bow ( I use a snatch block with a long tail to the deck cleat) back to a block attached to the anchor line about 5 - 10 ft from the bow and back to you on shore. If you also have a stern line to the boat you can then pull the boat to shore with the stern line while giving slack on the bow line. With the stern at the ramp you wade out, climb up the stern ladder and haul the M15 back off shore. How do you get to this end state from the trailer? you pre-rig the anchor ahead of time with an extra double line trough the eye at the anchor. The thin line is not tied but one end is threaded though the eye and back to the second end. The anchor is then place in a location on the boat so that it can be "tripped" off of the deck when the boat is deep enough. So when everything is set you launch the boat. Push it hard off shore and when it gets where you want it - trip the anchor off the deck and let go of the launching bow line. You presumably are now holding the free end of the anchor line and the stern line. You can tie them both to a convenient tree or dumpster and go park your car. Obviously all lines must run free with no snags but with some thought it does work re-reliable. The reverse of this works with a little power assist from your trusty outboard to get the stern into the shallows. You then move the boat off shore again while you get your trailer in place. When the trailer is in place pull the boat close to shore, swing the bow around with the extra long bow line, which you thoughtfully led back and tied off to the long stern line, and pull the bow up on the trailer. If it is too confusing email me off line and I will draw diagrams and send them.

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I love this group...
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 14 Aug '04

14 Aug '04

Hi All, Just got through with a week of 5 - 12 hr days. Only to begin again next week. I got to tell each and every one of you... the advice and comoraderie that is shown towards the newbies and salts alike is akin to a family affair. Each evening I look forward to the MSOG posts. I have a great time sucking on a 7&7 while relaxing and reading the various ideas, suggestions, questions and comments. Yea, I try to chime in ocassionally (when I feel I can contribute) and hopefully I will be as helpful and astute as the next guy / gal. At any rate... it never hurts to get another opinion. That's it... all done ranting. Fair Winds, Bill M-17, SF Bay Area

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