June 2004 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

M_17
by Bob 28 Jun '04

28 Jun '04

We have one completed 2004 M_17 left. (also a M_15 almost done) If anyone knows anyone who wants a new M_17 without the wait give me a call. She is BEAUTIFUL....! (of course) Also have a new M_6-8 available. Fair winds Bob (949) 489-8227

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(no subject)
by Jeff Flancer 28 Jun '04

28 Jun '04

Hi all, My name is Jeff. I am looking at buying a new or used M-17. I used to have a 1982 M-15. Good boat, no doubt, but I need something a little bigger (for 2 young boys & wife) so they can enjoy, and newer, so I can enjoy(and not maintan too much). I am also considering a Precision 18 and wonder if there is any "unbiased" (wrong group I know) opinions on either boat. I live in Phoenix, AZ, and was a subscriber to this group in the past. Happy days to you all. Jeff Flancer

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Re: M_Boats: New M-17 owner Questions
by Larry Yake 26 Jun '04

26 Jun '04

The fairleads and finger cleats sound like a system for strapping the sail to the boom when lowered. Something like a long bungee would run down one side from end to end through the fairleads, then when the sail was lowered to the boom, the cord would be stretched over the sail and hooked to the finger cleats on the other side, creating a zig-zag crossing over the sail. I thought of installing a system like this, but decided I didn't want all the hardware on the boom. Larry Yake M17, #200 Tullamore On Sat, 26 Jun 2004 15:19:54 -0400 <htmills(a)bright.net> writes: > Hi, Briant > > I don't keep Busca on a mooring, but whenever anchored, the board > gets > raised to avoid constant side to side knocking sound. Seems to ride > better > too. > > Sail number should be on sail. If not or if in question, you should > find a > small series of numbers and letters molded into the transom. Here > is how to > interpret them: > > http://www.msog.org/specs/hin17.cfm > > > The fairleads (eyestraps?) are probably for more than one thing. > Some are > probably for reef lines and the others ??. The cleats are probably > for the > reef lines. > > Busca has no outhaul. The clew is attached with a line that I pull > tight > and tie off. A real outhaul would be nice but... > > If you have a picture of your boom I could be more specific. > > Tod > M17 > #408 > > -----Original Message----- > From: > montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net(a)mailman.xmission.com > [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com] > On > Behalf Of Briant & Robin Dittmann > Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2004 8:54 AM > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Subject: M_Boats: New M-17 owner Questions > > > We just became M-17 (1986) owners.I'm trying to work out all the > newness a > sailboat rigged buy someone else can bring. Most seems to be > straight > forward but I have some Questions. > When on the mooring do you Keep the weighted centerboard up or > down? > How do I find out my correct sail number? > and > Any input on the rigging of the boom. The port side has fairleads > on a 45 > deg. angle the length of the boom aprox 5 ea. and small finger > cleats on the > starboard.I don't see how the outhaul attaches. If any one has a > photo of > how to rig the boom that would be much help. > > Thank you in advance > > Briant > M-17 > _______________________________________________ > /montgomery_boats > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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New M-17 owner Questions
by Briant & Robin Dittmann 26 Jun '04

26 Jun '04

We just became M-17 (1986) owners.I'm trying to work out all the newness a sailboat rigged buy someone else can bring. Most seems to be straight forward but I have some Questions. When on the mooring do you Keep the weighted centerboard up or down? How do I find out my correct sail number? and Any input on the rigging of the boom. The port side has fairleads on a 45 deg. angle the length of the boom aprox 5 ea. and small finger cleats on the starboard.I don't see how the outhaul attaches. If any one has a photo of how to rig the boom that would be much help. Thank you in advance Briant M-17

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Re: M_Boats: Bilge
by chbenneck＠juno.com 26 Jun '04

26 Jun '04

Hi Larry, The best way to keep water out of the bilge is to not get any water inside the boat! Put foam rubber strips on the inside of the sail locker hatches and put latches on them so that they can't open inadvertently. I occasionally will get a few drops in the cabin from a heavy rain - (still haven't found out how the water gets in) - and that is easy to remove with a sponge. My bilge is dry............. Connie

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Re: M_Boats: CBC-2004 report - long version
by LUDLOWD2＠aol.com 26 Jun '04

26 Jun '04

Doug Great report How many boats did you all have? going to post pictures? Fair winds Don Ludlow

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Re: M_Boats: Bilge
by chbenneck＠juno.com 26 Jun '04

26 Jun '04

Addendum to Jerry's advice: If you are sailing on the ocean (not freshwater lakes) keep aluminum beer cans out of the bilge area. I kept some of my beer supply in the "bilge" and several weeks later when I went to get a cool one, I found it was curiously light weight as I picked it up. When I popped the top - No pop and I found it was half empty. Why? The answer took a bit of sleuthing, but what had happened was that there was enough moisture in the bilge to act as an electrolyte. Galvanic corrosion in the thin aluminum can material created a pin hole. Beer can pressure forced beer contents into bilge. So the moral of the story is, keep beer / soda cans out of areas where they might get wet. Never did have a problem with my wine bottles or plastic spirits containers. Connie

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REply to Larry re: finishing the hatch boards
by Seawitch 26 Jun '04

26 Jun '04

Hi, I just completed finishing all the teak on my M15 with a product I found on the Practical Sailor Mag. comparison of teak finishing products last year. This product came in 1st after 6 months of weathering. It is Bristol finish and information about it can be obtained at their website, Bristolfinish.com. The product is very easy to use, doesn't require a lot of between coat sanding if you can do all four coats within a short period of time. Needs like 2 hours between coats and only requires light sanding if more than 24 hours go between coats. It is also advertised to not require any maintenance for 4 years and then only light sanding and an additional coat. The finish is beautiful, you have a choice of high gloss or matte. The thing to remember when doing both sides of the hatch covers is that it does change the fit of the slides. Even a very little increase makes them quite tight. Oh, you can't buy this everywhere, I had to mail order it. When I initially got the boat, last year, I thought I would just oil the teak and it would look good. After a year, I found that it needed to be redone too often, and was a bit labor intensive and did not really look as nice as I wanted. So, I decided to go the route I now have. Time for a cool change! Sandra(Seawitch #617)

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RE: M_Boats: boom tent
by Hughston, Larry 26 Jun '04

26 Jun '04

Thanks for the insight on the shoal keel cavity. I have hull #189 and I want to know where the steel shot ballast is located. Thanks, Larry H. (Sacramento) -----Original Message----- From: Rik Sandberg [mailto:sanderico@earthlink.net] Sent: Friday, June 25, 2004 12:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: boom tent Stan, I'm a bit confused on this "keel cavity" thing where water collects. What cavity are we talking about here?? Larry, When you look down through the hole that your centerboard pennant goes through, you (if it wasn't so dark) should see the top of the centerboard. I can't imagine that there would be any water collecting in there. That is at the top of the slot that the centerboard lives in and the slot is open at the bottom. Rik Sandberg At 11:29 AM 6/25/2004, you wrote: >Larry, > >Water that gets into that shoal keel cavity gets real stagnant after a >while. It takes a bit of contorting to get in there with a sponge but >when you see what you get out of it you'll be glad you went to the trouble. > >When I first got my boat (new) I took water into the hull through a >flaw >in that glass layup. I patched it with a fiberglass patch and its been >good ever since. > >I still get water into the cabin from heavy rains puddling on the sole >and >seeping under the companionway board. Regularly cleaning the accumulated >dirt that collects between the wood and the fiberglass at the sill and >drilling a few holes in the wood has helped keep some of the rain water >out but that hasn't totally solved the problem. > >Stan >M-15, #177, Carol II > > >_______________________________________________ >http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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List mail problem
by Rik Sandberg 25 Jun '04

25 Jun '04

To all on the Monty list, When I reply to any of the list emails lately, I get a reply from a mailer daemon that my message was not deliverable. This comes every time I reply to a message from the list. _________________________________________ Delivery Failure Report. The following message was incorrectly addressed. Recipient: "john" is unrecognised. Please contact "admin(a)clcboats.com" for further assistance _________________________________________ My message still makes it to the list OK, but I get a message back from this mailer daemon like there was another address cc'd in or something. I can't find any other address but the montgomery list address in the headers. Anybody else have this problem?? Or know how to fix it?? Rik

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