June 2004 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Port and Starboard Shelves
by Rick Langer 29 Jun '04

29 Jun '04

Of all the improvements I plan for my boat, one that is important every time I sail is some quickly accessible interior storage. A lot of boats have shelves port and starboard running the length of the cabin. I find these shelves great for storing all the things you need to grab fast. The M15 has a ton of storage, but I don't really like guessing where what I want is and then go digging through gear and cushions to find it. When I sold my old boat and cleaned out I found things in the below cushions storage areas that I had forgot I ever had. So I thinking of building some shelves, but the hard part seems to be attaching them to the boat. I thought that drilling holes through the hull would be less than prudent and those screw points sticking out of the hull might be hazardous to fellow boaters. Seriously, there is a small amount of space between the cabin skin and the hull, but finding the place where I won't go through the hull is problematic. Has anyone built shelves and can you advise me? Rick Langer

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RE: M_Boats: Port and Starboard Shelves
by Hughston, Larry 29 Jun '04

29 Jun '04

Rick, why not adhere a high quality wooden "base plate" to the interior? It only needs to be not thicker than 5/8" or so. Then screw into that at will with short screws (predrilled of course). Just use some taste so it looks "original" (sort of). Just a novices suggestion. Feedback anyone? ---Larry ........hull 189 -----Original Message----- From: Rick Langer [mailto:farreach@optonline.net] Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2004 6:59 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Port and Starboard Shelves Of all the improvements I plan for my boat, one that is important every time I sail is some quickly accessible interior storage. A lot of boats have shelves port and starboard running the length of the cabin. I find these shelves great for storing all the things you need to grab fast. The M15 has a ton of storage, but I don't really like guessing where what I want is and then go digging through gear and cushions to find it. When I sold my old boat and cleaned out I found things in the below cushions storage areas that I had forgot I ever had. So I thinking of building some shelves, but the hard part seems to be attaching them to the boat. I thought that drilling holes through the hull would be less than prudent and those screw points sticking out of the hull might be hazardous to fellow boaters. Seriously, there is a small amount of space between the cabin skin and the hull, but finding the place where I won't go through the hull is problematic. Has anyone built shelves and can you advise me? Rick Langer _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: Teak finish
by Russell 29 Jun '04

29 Jun '04

I have used Cetol for years on several boats, but agree that yellow is not the preferred color. Any ideas about removing Cetol without damaging the teak or gelcoat ? What solvent/paint removers work best ? Russ Browne PJ Puddlejumper ComPac SunCat #16 Branched Oak Yacht Club Sailing the prairie lakes of Nebraska

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Re: M_Boats: Finishing Teak
by Larry Yake 29 Jun '04

29 Jun '04

I agree about oiling your teak. I think it looks great and it's an easy job for a great looking finish. But I wouldn't rule out Cetol for everything. I made new hatchboards out of Okuma marine plywood which has a faint, almost purple, tint. The yellowish tint in the Cetol was just perfect for giving them a nice rich teak like look. You could get similar results with stain and varnish, but only with a lot more work and maintenance. Larry On Mon, 28 Jun 2004 11:06:44 -0400 Rick Langer <farreach(a)optonline.net> writes: > I just finished removing "Cetol" from all my teak and replacing it > with teak > oil. It looks wonderful and I suspect very much like the original > factory > finish. IMHO, Cetol is about the worst finish one could apply to any > wood. > It might last forever, but forever is a long time for ugly. Instead > of gray > teak you get yellow teak and in the case of my boat, the one > applying the > Cetol gave me alot of yellow fiberglass. > > For many years I had a boat that stayed in a slip or on a mooring > all summer > and a hard finish made sense, but my current boat is dry sailed and > covered > when not used and my thinking is that a hard finish makes less > sense. Also, > eventually hard finishes have to be stripped when they are recoated > many > times and that is a major job. > > My hatch boards need to be replaced because the teak veneer has > delaminated > (which meant the Cetol came off easily). I am thinking of using > some nice > white oak that I already have, but I'm not sure about the difference > in > color. When oxidized and gray they (teak and white oak) look very > much > alike, but when cleaned up and oiled the oak is lighter and without > any > redness. Has anyone used oak with teak and have suggestions for > me? > > Rick Langer > M15 #337 > Hudson River > > > > Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 09:08:17 -0400 > > From: "William B. Riker" <wriker(a)mindspring.com> > > Subject: RE: M_Boats: REply to Larry re: finishing the hatch > boards > > To: <seawitchlj(a)yahoo.com>, "'For and about Montgomery > Sailboats'" > > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > > Message-ID: <E1BeCuk-0007QQ-00(a)smtp6.mindspring.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > Just another viewpoint here. Teak is used on boats because of its > oily > and > > rot-resistant characteristics. And it looks nice, both oiled and > finished > > bright. There is cost to using teak; both monetary and > environmental. It > > strikes me that if you are going keep the wood sealed with a hard > finish, > > you don't need teak! You can use any wood, and there are many > that are > more > > attractive, environmentally friendly and less costly than teak. > > > > Also, teak has a very uneven raised grain. Sanding it smooth > enough for a > > hard finish would remove material and weaken it structurally. The > forward > > rail, starboard side, on my boat is particularly deeply grooved > and would > be > > very difficult to sand smooth. > > > > I spend less than an hour per year cleaning and oiling the teak on > my M15, > > primarily for preservation, secondarily for appearance. Over the > years > > that may add up to more time that I would spend masking, sanding > and > > painting a hard finish. But I doubt it. I have too little time > available > > for both sailing and working on the boat and sailing takes > precedence. > And > > I like using teak's natural properties for their intended > purpose. > > > > Bill Riker > > M15 - #184 > > Storm Petrel > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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Virus from List
by Steve & Diana Parsons 29 Jun '04

29 Jun '04

John Lubliner, Just trapped a virus from an email with your AOL account. Don't know if someone is spoofing your account, or if you have a problem on your PC. Steve

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Re: M_Boats: Finishing Teak
by chbenneck＠juno.com 29 Jun '04

29 Jun '04

Hi Rick, Teak is traditional on boats because it doesn't rot; ..........but it has to be maintained, or, ..........you finally give up and let it become a nice grey. If you keep your boat covered, varnishing your teak, or oiling it, should do the job without too much work. However a boat on a mooring or in a slip for the summer will need more teak attention. Books have been written on the subject. I guess it boils down to how much labor are you willing to invest in keeping your teak looking great? Teak requires labor. Either get yourself some slaves to do the job: or Navy deck hands. Then, as Captain, you just say, "I want the teak to shine" and they do as you command. If you have no deck hands or slaves, and you as Captain have to do the job yourself, then you face the question: how much work am I willing to invest; or can I invest; in glossy - (make the others drool) - teak? If the answer is: I'd rather be sailing, then grey teak is a lovely color. ~~~~~~~~~~~ Hatch boards: Teak is nice if you have it - but if you don't, - then why not use your white oak? The finish will be lighter in color than the teak, but so what? If you don't like the lighter color, stain it! Connie

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RE: M_Boats: REply to Larry re: finishing the hatch boards
by Hughston, Larry 28 Jun '04

28 Jun '04

Thanks, another viewpoint is always welcome. I just about ready to tackle my teak. Thanks again. ---Larry (hull #189, M-15) -----Original Message----- From: William B. Riker [mailto:wriker@mindspring.com] Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2004 6:08 AM To: seawitchlj(a)yahoo.com; 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats' Subject: RE: M_Boats: REply to Larry re: finishing the hatch boards Just another viewpoint here. Teak is used on boats because of its oily and rot-resistant characteristics. And it looks nice, both oiled and finished bright. There is cost to using teak; both monetary and environmental. It strikes me that if you are going keep the wood sealed with a hard finish, you don't need teak! You can use any wood, and there are many that are more attractive, environmentally friendly and less costly than teak. Also, teak has a very uneven raised grain. Sanding it smooth enough for a hard finish would remove material and weaken it structurally. The forward rail, starboard side, on my boat is particularly deeply grooved and would be very difficult to sand smooth. I spend less than an hour per year cleaning and oiling the teak on my M15, primarily for preservation, secondarily for appearance. Over the years that may add up to more time that I would spend masking, sanding and painting a hard finish. But I doubt it. I have too little time available for both sailing and working on the boat and sailing takes precedence. And I like using teak's natural properties for their intended purpose. Bill Riker M15 - #184 Storm Petrel -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+wriker=mindspring.com(a)mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+wriker=mindspring.com@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Seawitch Sent: Friday, June 25, 2004 9:22 PM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: REply to Larry re: finishing the hatch boards Hi, I just completed finishing all the teak on my M15 with a product I found on the Practical Sailor Mag. comparison of teak finishing products last year. This product came in 1st after 6 months of weathering. It is Bristol finish and information about it can be obtained at their website, Bristolfinish.com. The product is very easy to use, doesn't require a lot of between coat sanding if you can do all four coats within a short period of time. Needs like 2 hours between coats and only requires light sanding if more than 24 hours go between coats. It is also advertised to not require any maintenance for 4 years and then only light sanding and an additional coat. The finish is beautiful, you have a choice of high gloss or matte. The thing to remember when doing both sides of the hatch covers is that it does change the fit of the slides. Even a very little increase makes them quite tight. Oh, you can't buy this everywhere, I had to mail order it. When I initially got the boat, last year, I thought I would just oil the teak and it would look good. After a year, I found that it needed to be redone too often, and was a bit labor intensive and did not really look as nice as I wanted. So, I decided to go the route I now have. Time for a cool change! Sandra(Seawitch #617) _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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RE: M_Boats: Bilge
by Hughston, Larry 28 Jun '04

28 Jun '04

Jerry, I am pleased to report that I brought home hull # 189 from Ridgecrest, CA. It's an M-15 and my 4 cylinder Camry pulled it well, but you must be patient with a small car. Trailer towed straight and true. Fair Winds.....and thanks. ---Larry -----Original Message----- From: Jerry Montgomery [mailto:jmbn@innercite.com] Sent: Friday, June 25, 2004 7:29 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bilge I keep my whisky there for when I run out of beer! Plastic bottles are best. Jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills(a)bright.net> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, June 25, 2004 3:31 PM Subject: M_Boats: Bilge > I keep my beer (and wine) in the bilge when the water is cool. > > The guy in "Riddle of the Sands" kept a beef tongue wrapped in > newspaper in > his bilge. > > And now Bob is advocating keeping a sponge there. > > To each his own. > > *ROTDL* > > Tod > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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RE: M_Boats: Bilge
by Hughston, Larry 28 Jun '04

28 Jun '04

Thanks, I am all ears as I just got my Monty and trailer DMV'd for another year.----Larry -----Original Message----- From: chbenneck(a)juno.com [mailto:chbenneck@juno.com] Sent: Saturday, June 26, 2004 12:00 PM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bilge Hi Larry, The best way to keep water out of the bilge is to not get any water inside the boat! Put foam rubber strips on the inside of the sail locker hatches and put latches on them so that they can't open inadvertently. I occasionally will get a few drops in the cabin from a heavy rain - (still haven't found out how the water gets in) - and that is easy to remove with a sponge. My bilge is dry............. Connie _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Finishing Teak
by Rick Langer 28 Jun '04

28 Jun '04

I just finished removing "Cetol" from all my teak and replacing it with teak oil. It looks wonderful and I suspect very much like the original factory finish. IMHO, Cetol is about the worst finish one could apply to any wood. It might last forever, but forever is a long time for ugly. Instead of gray teak you get yellow teak and in the case of my boat, the one applying the Cetol gave me alot of yellow fiberglass. For many years I had a boat that stayed in a slip or on a mooring all summer and a hard finish made sense, but my current boat is dry sailed and covered when not used and my thinking is that a hard finish makes less sense. Also, eventually hard finishes have to be stripped when they are recoated many times and that is a major job. My hatch boards need to be replaced because the teak veneer has delaminated (which meant the Cetol came off easily). I am thinking of using some nice white oak that I already have, but I'm not sure about the difference in color. When oxidized and gray they (teak and white oak) look very much alike, but when cleaned up and oiled the oak is lighter and without any redness. Has anyone used oak with teak and have suggestions for me? Rick Langer M15 #337 Hudson River > Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 09:08:17 -0400 > From: "William B. Riker" <wriker(a)mindspring.com> > Subject: RE: M_Boats: REply to Larry re: finishing the hatch boards > To: <seawitchlj(a)yahoo.com>, "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: <E1BeCuk-0007QQ-00(a)smtp6.mindspring.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Just another viewpoint here. Teak is used on boats because of its oily and > rot-resistant characteristics. And it looks nice, both oiled and finished > bright. There is cost to using teak; both monetary and environmental. It > strikes me that if you are going keep the wood sealed with a hard finish, > you don't need teak! You can use any wood, and there are many that are more > attractive, environmentally friendly and less costly than teak. > > Also, teak has a very uneven raised grain. Sanding it smooth enough for a > hard finish would remove material and weaken it structurally. The forward > rail, starboard side, on my boat is particularly deeply grooved and would be > very difficult to sand smooth. > > I spend less than an hour per year cleaning and oiling the teak on my M15, > primarily for preservation, secondarily for appearance. Over the years > that may add up to more time that I would spend masking, sanding and > painting a hard finish. But I doubt it. I have too little time available > for both sailing and working on the boat and sailing takes precedence. And > I like using teak's natural properties for their intended purpose. > > Bill Riker > M15 - #184 > Storm Petrel

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