May 2004 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

North Channel Cruise
by htmills＠bright.net 02 Nov '06

02 Nov '06

I'm planning on a two week North Channel Cruise in mid June. I'll probably drive from Ohio to Tobermory, take the Chi-Cheemaun ferry over to South Baymouth (Manitoulin Island), and then drive to Little Current (Manitoulin Island) on Saturday June 5th. I might end up taking the ferry on the morning of the 6th depending on how late I hit the road. At the present time I'm thinking of making a general counter clockwise spin around the North Channel, launching at Spider Bay Marina in Little Current and going north and then west to the Bustard Islands and west and then crossing south to the west end of Manitoulin and returning east again. Of course, all plans are subject to the weather and whims of the person at the helm! Mid June will probably be a bit ahead of the crowd and still kinda nippy. There is some info on the area at: http://www.continuouswave.com/north-channel/ and here: http://www.continuouswave.com/sail-logs/ If anyone else is planning on a trip up there, perhaps we can meet up! Tod

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more on electric drive on M17
by MC 02 Jun '04

02 Jun '04

today I tried an new variable speed electric trolling motor on a M17, on still lake, with no air, one person. I got the gauge to reach almost two knots, its a hang over the side wand type. The meter said it was pulling 47 amps and at full open it lasted almost two hours. It was very sensitive to position of the helmsman. approximately 745 watts per one HP, that comes to only 0.86 HP, two knots seem too high for so small a motor. A ready to sail M17 I think weighs in at 2200 lbs plus one person.

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Chesapeake Bay Cruise - 6/12
by Doug Kelch 01 Jun '04

01 Jun '04

Only 3 weeks to go before launching the 2004 Chesapeake Bay Cruise on Saturday June 12th. Last chance to express your interest! The Chester River beckons. Respond off list to: doug_kelch(a)yahoo.com Thanks __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Domains Claim yours for only $14.70/year http://smallbusiness.promotions.yahoo.com/offer

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Re: M_Boats: Bungee cord tiller tammer
by chbenneck＠juno.com 01 Jun '04

01 Jun '04

Hi Rick, I installed two small jam cleats on the P / S sides of the cockpit, about 6 - 8" back from the forward end of the tiller. My self steering lash-up is as simple as it gets. Part No. 1 is a piece of bungee cord (probably about 1/4" diameter x 3' long: finished length). Make a loop in the end that you can slide over the tiller (make it a fairly loose fit ). Part No. 2 is a piece of 1/4" line that goes through a toggle ( a small rectangle of wood with two holes drilled through it - about 2 inches apart) and after making a bight, put the end back through the toggle and tie a figure eight knot. Leave a lot of slack in the eye. The toggle allows you to adjust the length of the line. Depending on the tack you are on, the eye of the bungee cord is slipped over the tiller and the other end is put in the jam cleat. The eye in the line now goes over the end of the tiller and the loose end is put in the opposite jam cleat. Now you have to play with the adjustment: Tighten (or loosen) the toggle to get the tiller about where it wants to be when on course. Now stretch the bungee cord and adjust it's tension; and adjust the toggle so that the tiller is held where it needs to be to hold course. With bungee cord tension properly balanced, this systems will hold course nicely. Cost? A piece of scrap 1/4" line about 4' long. A scrap piece of wood about 1" wide x 4" long x 3/8" thick for the toggle. A piece of bungee cord Two small jam cleats about $3 each ...........and nothing added to the tiller. Connie

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tiller tamer
by Jeffco923＠aol.com 31 May '04

31 May '04

Larry, In looking at the pic of your tiller tamer, it looks like you've used a standard cleat on the tiller? Others have mentioned using a jam cleat(european?)..have you tried both? Which do you prefer?

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Raising the rudder
by Alan Wells 31 May '04

31 May '04

Here is a good soulution to raising the rudder. I found it on a West Wright Potters page. It is a simple soulution to being able to raise and lower the rudder without a lot of fuss and hard work. http://www.roselab.jhu.edu/~rose/potter.html this works on several boats that I have seen and will work on a Montgomery. Alan Wells

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WTB: M17
by Dean Sorensen 31 May '04

31 May '04

Looking to buy a M17. Preferably in Midwest. Boat in need of TLC is OK as long as is structurally in good shape. Write me with details at: elonridge(a)hotmail.com Dean Sorensen NE Iowa

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Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 17 for sale
by TOMMYVAL＠aol.com 31 May '04

31 May '04

Clarence, Sorry to hear your selling your 17. If I didnt already have one I buy it from you. We are going to miss you at the Chesapeake Bay get togethers. Hope all is well and remember you can still attend the raft ups without a M-17, you could hotel it like me. On the off chance you dont sell it by 9/24 there's a Lyle Hess get together set for St Leonards Creek of the Patuxent River starting that Friday (9/24). I have spoken with the folks putting this together and it's possible there will be 5 BCC's, 4-5 NorSea 27's and maybe a Falmouth cutter. Also there will be a M-23 and some 17 and 15's too. Of course all M boaters are invited and just for the record the boat is as Clarence advertises it, I have seen it and she is well equipped and beautiful. Good Luck with the sales process and I hope all is well Regards, Gary Valetti

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Re: M_Boats: raiseable tiller
by chbenneck＠juno.com 31 May '04

31 May '04

Hi Craig, Thanks for a good idea............ If I put a plate on each side of the cut tiller, with 2 bolts going through the forward end of the tiller (small ones - they don't have to exert a lot of force); and then one bolt in the stub at the rudder cheeks, swinging the tiller up would be easy. This would also allow you to put quite a side to side load on the tiller. The barrel bolt - maybe one top and bottom to halve the forces when raising or lowering the rudder - and we have the best of both worlds. Rudder UP / DOWN control with the tiller with barrel blots shut, but if you want to raise the tiller for more ease when standing; unlatch it and lift it up. That also allows you to raise the tiller out of the way when at anchor; cooking; or dining............. Let me marinate the idea in my head some more before I start cutting and fiddling................... Connie

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Re: M_Boats: Learning Curve
by chbenneck＠juno.com 31 May '04

31 May '04

Rick, I showed you my No. 1 development model of my tiller extension. My reasons for building it were: The Forespar Tiller Extension was working at about a 120 degree angle to the tiller when I sat all the way forward in the cockpit - my preferred position. This 120 degree angle made it awkward to steer properly - especially if the wind started blowing and you had to exert a bit of pressure to stay on course. So, my tiller extension is really a tiller extension: fastened to the tiller to get the tiller end where I want it, and to raise the end of the tiller so that it clears my knees, and is easier to hold. Like you, I occasionally like to conn my way into an anchorage standing up and would like to also raise the tiller. I've been trying to dream up a tiller I can lift up while standing; but that can be instantly transformed back into it's original - raise / lower the rudder blade - configuration. I'm thinking: - cut the tiller about 6 inches from the rudder cheeks and mount a heavy duty hinge on the top surface of the tiller. Now the tiller could be raised at will. To lock it in it's rudder lifting position, I think a barrel bolt on the bottom of the tiller would do the job. Since I have the new tiller installed on the rudder, and the original tiller that I repaired is just standing around - I have the possibility of trying out the idea. Will advise how it works - and if it works as planned. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My boat came with the Styrofoam blocks in the forward compartment and under the cockpit sole. However, I still feel, it is better to button up the boat (sail locker lids with gaskets and hasps: and hatch boards in place; companion way hatch closed) if the weather gets nasty. The name of the game is keep the water out of the inside of the boat. Then you don't need floatation....... There was no way I could have put floatation in a 29 footer, nor in my larger boat. If you come to that conclusion, then the answer is: outside water has to stay outside................ which means sail lockers with gaskets under the lids and that can be locked. The water that might get in via clearances in hatch boards - or my louver vent in the top hatch board, might be a gallon or two, if you get knocked down totally, but a good bilge pump takes care of that. Connie

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