August 2002 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: Lights for a juiceless M15 anchor light
by David Barnes 18 Aug '02

18 Aug '02

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Re: M_Boats: Lights for a juiceless M15/walmart battries cheap
by David Barnes 18 Aug '02

18 Aug '02

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Re: M_Boats: Lights for a juiceless M15
by Sandyal55＠aol.com 17 Aug '02

17 Aug '02

Connie; Your motorcycle battery sounds like a good lightweight plan with only one drawback. A good MC battery is 80-100 bucks. My Honda 1100 Shadow's is around $90. A SMALL car battery is maybe $40 and only weighs 25lbs (a guess). The amp hours will also be a lot longer for the car battery. Another post mentioned not needing lights on a 15. True, for a true sailboat, but if you have an engine mounted, lights are required for night sailing and motoring. Have you ever sailed to Manhasset Bay and stayed at the Riviera Marina. I was raised on a boat there in the '60's. We had a 1929 50' Elco Flattop. It was a good life. Sandy

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Lights for a juiceless M15
by Smith, Tom 17 Aug '02

17 Aug '02

My M15 isn't wired for lights, and I don't want to go that route. But I would like to carry some emergency running, steaming, and anchoring lights. Anybody worked this out and have suggestions? Thanks. t Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle Sandpoint, Idaho M15-345, Chukar

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Re: M_Boats: Lights for a juiceless M15
by Conbert H Benneck 17 Aug '02

17 Aug '02

Hi Jane & Tom, I'm coming at the electrical supply problem from a different direction than you are. My "problem", which really isn't much of a problem, is that I want to run my GPS continually, and also want to run my SONY CD player for a little Vivaldi or Mozart when I'm sailing. What I am doing is installing an electrical panel with cigarette lighter socket in the starboard side of the porta-potti area. This panel has a voltmeter so I can monitor the status of the battery. (WEST Catalog item) I intend to buy a motorcycle battery. They are about 3 1/2 inches wide x 6 to 7 inches long x 7 inches high - depending on model and capacity. Then I'll build a fiberglass battery box to fit in the bow compartment, along the aft wall, just under the lid. With this combination, I will have adequate 12 volt power for my GPS / CD player, and when the battery voltage drops it will be easy enough to remove the battery (weight maybe 15 lbs) and take it home to recharge it. This should work for you as well, and give you a the possibility of running naviagation lights when needed. Connie M15 #400 LEPPO

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Electric system
by Harvey Wilson 17 Aug '02

17 Aug '02

>> Now I want to replace the systems and I am not sure how everything goes together. Does anyone know if the old M-17 had an electric pump that provided water to the sink?<< Hi Bob.. My 1079 M-17 has a Whale pump at the sink and a 6 gallon water tank under the cockpit floor. The pump is available at West Marine..and probably BoatUS as well. Harvey/Ga M-17 Stargazer #294

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Electric system
by Bob Nesbitt 16 Aug '02

16 Aug '02

I have a 1977 M-17 that needs electrical work and a fresh water system. I had to remove the old system years ago because of corrosion. Now I want to replace the systems and I am not sure how everything goes together. Does anyone know if the old M-17 had an electric pump that provided water to the sink? Thanks Bob Nesbitt Minneapolis "Pretty Tacky" Hull 266Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com

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Re: M_Boats: Surveying M17
by Harvey Wilson 16 Aug '02

16 Aug '02

>>Most homeowners policies have a $2,500.00 limit for boat coverage. < My BoatUS insurance policy for my M-17 is in the $90 bracket. Travellers wanted about $165. Got disgusted with W/Marine's insurance dept's antsy questions, etc...and I work for them!! Harvey/Ga M-17 Stargazer #294

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Re: M_Boats: Bow Chocks
by Conbert H Benneck 15 Aug '02

15 Aug '02

Irv, If you own a boat, holes in decks and other places, are a fact of life; particularly if you want to add, change, remove, modify, or otherwise adapt the boat to your sailing requirements. If you drill a hole through a balsa cored deck, get between the upper and the lower fiberglass layers and remove about 1/8 inch of the balsa core material. Now back fill the hole with epoxy and filler material. Redrill the hole and you have a nice hole that seals the core from any water intrusion. It's simple to do - after you have agonized over the first one - and should last forever. Just be sure to bed to cleat with a sealant before fastening it permanently. Connie

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Re: M_Boats: Bow Chocks
by Conbert H Benneck 15 Aug '02

15 Aug '02

Hi Irv, On my M15, I cut down a portion of the teak toe rail and then mounted a teak block under the chocks - to match the chock foot-print. Now I have bow chocks for my mooring lines and anchor rodes. With your M17 aluminum toe rail, can you cut off a portion where you want to mount the chocks, and then raise the cock with a suitable block under the chock to match the remaining toe rail height? That's what I'd look at and contemplate. Connie

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