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Re: M_Boats: mast raising on M-23
by bownez＠juno.com 21 May '13

21 May '13

The former owner of my M23, Dick Lane, modified an electric motor winch to mount on the traveler track and bolt to a padeye in the cockpit. I set the entire rig up, attach a small AGM battery, hit the on switch, and the mast raises itself....... Cool. Bones ____________________________________________________________ 1 Weird spice that FIGHTS diabetes Can this unusual "super spice" control your blood sugar and fight diabetes&#63 http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/519b6a7bc4de86a7b13afst03vuc

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trailer locks
by SCPD103＠aol.com 20 May '13

20 May '13

ANY SUGGESTIONS ON THE BEST LOCKING DEVICES TO US TO SECURE YOUR TRAILER WHEN IT'S HOOKED UP TO YOUR VEHICLE AND PARKED IN THE PARKING LOT AT THE BOAT RAMP? THANKS TONY V.

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Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 and Centerboard Pin
by Scott Larson 20 May '13

20 May '13

I am just about to start putting the barrier coat on the keel, but have some more questions about the CB bolt and bolt. I plan to pull the CB at the end of the season for maintenance and fix it so it will not get stuck in the up position (I plan to just leave it down for the season, otherwise, it will get stuck in the up position the first time I retract it). A note from Jerry stated that the pin is to go in from the starboard side. I am pretty sure someone put this one in from the port side. The port side of the pin is peened a little bit, and the starboard side has small pin marks in the end of it where someone used something like a nailset to drive it out. Should I just leave it that way till I haul it out in the fall? Also, I am thinking of just painting over the pin and area around it with the barrier coat (then it will be easier to pull the pin at the end of the season). Does anyone think that will cause me any more problems over the season than a little more turbulence across the keel? Scott Larson

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Re: M_Boats: mast raising on M-23, as easy as NorSea 27?
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 20 May '13

20 May '13

Robbin, Back in the day, my family sailed a Midship 25/Dawson 26/Parker Dawson 26 out of Dana Inn at MB San Diego - we used the boom as a gin pole to raise and lower rig in order to clear the bridge leaving the bay - worked great, under control - make sure all connections including the gooseneck fitting are up to the task. We used to step C-25 -C-30's the same way - called a 'Huntington Rig' by the SoCal sailing community?. Be Careful,Good Luck, Have Fun, Go Sailing! GO our season is winding down locally (AZ) - too warm soon - time to venture afar! In a message dated 5/20/2013 11:56:06 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, tjenk(a)gte.net writes: When I owned a Nor'Sea, I always used what sounds like the same triatic plate system Jerry used on the 23, and in fact the bow pulpit had a dip in the center to catch the mast as it was lowered forward. Frankly, lowering the NS 27 mast singlehanded was easier than lowering the mast on my M17, because the alignment of the mast tabernacle and the triatic plates (triangles) near the shroud bases kept the wires from the triangles to the boom-end (and the upper shrouds) uniformly snug throughout the raising or lowering process. The only difference is probably trivial--I fastened the boom end to the masthead with the topping lift rather than the jib halyard. Frankly, I don't know if dropping the mast forward or aft makes a big difference, but all I needed for the NS was a small-diameter cable set stored in a little bag, whereas the aft-dropping procedure requires a mast crutch and some type of A-frame. The NS did not require a mast crutch for trailering because the mast rode to the starboard side on two purpose-made plywood boxes. On May 20, 2013, at 10:15 AM, jerry montgomery wrote: > We supplied the 23 with a device to raise/lower the mast, consisting of a pair of little stainess triangles in line in the shrouds, a few inches above the turnbuckles, and a pair of wires about 8' long that attach between the triangles and the boom. > > Lower the mast forward, onto the bow pulpit, by putting the boom in place, attaching the jib halyard to the end of the boom, triangulating the boom with the two wires, releasing the backstay, and controlling the mast/boom with the mainsheet as it lowers forward. Easy as pie. > > jerry > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Bradley" <todd(a)btbuilders.net> > To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Sent: Monday, May 20, 2013 7:45 AM > Subject: Re: M_Boats: mast raising on M-23, as easy as NorSea 27? > > >> Hi Robbin - Thanks for posting this question. I need help also. I am a new >> M-23 owner and I will be lowering the mast next week and I have got to admit >> a bit nervous. I have been scanning the internet for any videos or methods. >> Sounds like Sean use some type of homemade A-frame and lowers and raises >> to/from the stern. I am not sure if this method can be performed without >> modification to the original boat/equipment. I think the original method is >> to lower and raise using the boom as a gin pole? Any advice is helpful. >> >> Thank you! >> >> Todd Bradley >> M-23 >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: montgomery_boats-bounces(a)mailman.xmission.com >> [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Robbin >> Roddewig >> Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2013 6:27 PM >> To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com >> Subject: M_Boats: mast raising on M-23, as easy as NorSea 27? >> >> Hi all, >> it is time to raise the mast on the M-23. My son and I tried it with muscle >> with the mast over the stern and could not raise it safely. I have been >> watching the NorSea 27 videos which show it being lowered to the bow with >> the main sheet using the boom as a gin pole. Has anyone got more >> information about this method? Does the NorSea have a set up that I could >> copy to raise the mast? >> Thanks in advance! >> >> Robbin >> M-10, M-23 >> >> >> >> > > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > SPAMfighter has removed 8612 of my spam emails to date. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen > > >

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Re: M_Boats: mast raising on M-23, as easy as NorSea 27?
by Nebwest2＠aol.com 20 May '13

20 May '13

Picture of the mast crutch in raised position. Jo was with me so she is helping but I can do this solo and often do

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Re: M_Boats: mast raising on M-23, as easy as NorSea 27?
by Nebwest2＠aol.com 20 May '13

20 May '13

Hey Gang.. yes....I use an A-frame that allows me to do the whole operation singlehanded and under control. The A-frame clamps to the two chainplates and consists of two pipes that go forward to just above the stemhead and then are connected together with 2 U-bolts (one facing up and one facing down.) Two halyard are attached to the top U-bolt and the mainsheet is used to connect to the stemhead and the lower u-bolt. The halyards are then used to raise the A-frame perpendicular to the mast and locked off. The mainsheet then provides more than enough purchase for me to raise the mast by pulling the A-frame back down to the starting position just above the stemhead . I stand at the tabernacle and pull on the mainsheet..this allows me to contol the mast side to side until the shrouds get tight. Actually having the boat ever so slightly leaning to one side when I raise it aids me, in that the mast will want to favor that side in it's sway. This is the side I stand on so the mast can just rest against my hip as it goes up. The A-frame automatically centers the pull on the mast and is not able to sway. I also have an extending mast crutch that allows me to kind of pre-elevate the mast in the rear before I start hoisting it with the mainsheet. The Crutch is a custom aluminum deal I made that fits into a Todd seat post base that is mounted in the aft transverse lazzerette lid. This also doubles as a place to mount a cockpit table. The base of the crutch actually screws into it and then at the tip of the extension section I have three rings that allow me to secure three ratchet straps (one goes left to the dock cleat, one right to the dock cleat and one to a padeye I have mounted in the forward cockpit floor. This stablizes the top of the mast crutch. I lay my mast down aft, rather than the stock setup of going forward with it. I don't like going forward because you get so much weight out in front of the pivot point of the pulpit once the mast is down. I do have to remove the inner shrouds to lay it backwards and I suppose I could rotate the chainplates to alleviate this step, but I have never bothered. I use the velcro cotter pin straps to secure my turnbuckles so it's only a couple of minutes to remove them. I also did not like the amount of pressure on the gooseneck fitting using the boom as the gin pole and laying the mast foward. I don't think that going forward it would be very easy to perfect the system so that you can do it singlehanded. I've been using this system single handed for about 6 years, multiple times a year. It is slower to setup than some systems. I suffered a severe injury to my neck about 9 years ago in a mast raising incident with a Santana 23d which has a very heavy double spreader rig. Not wanting to ever find myself in an Air-E-Vac airplane at 2am again, I probably error on the side of caution and my setup time to many is too long. For me though, it makes me 100% self sufficient and safe. I routinely tow, rig, launch , retrieve , and de-rig solo....and in fact I usually prefer it that way. I will probably step the mast in the next week or two here at home to do some final prep work for the trip to the San Juans. If I do I will try to take some video of the process. I make no claims though that "this is the way to do it". Only that "this is the way I do it". Remember....before you consider copying what I am doing....It's a home made system and the guy that uses it is the same guy that just told you he has injured himself severely in a mast raising incident. LOL

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Jib Height
by George Iemmolo 18 May '13

18 May '13

Ready to splash boat tomorrow broken toggle prevented it today.. While sailing her in the driveway on a test run I noticed that the clew can be any where from flush with the deck (I do not have a Bow Rail) to 3'-4' above the deck. What is the normal height above deck for a working Jib? George Merry Helen II M15 #602

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Future purchase
by Kirk Satterfield 18 May '13

18 May '13

Hello all, My wife and I are in North Carolina, and are considering an M-15 for a future purchase. Is there an owner out there close to our area that we could come and take a "hands on" look at the boat sometime? You know, climb inside, sit in the cockpit, all that sort of thing. Photos of these boats, I think, does not do them justice. Warm regards! “The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.” William Arthur Ward

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Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15
by W David Scobie 16 May '13

16 May '13

Scott: good news that you had little difficulty with the gel coat bubbles and making the boat's bottom smooth once again. don't use silicone on your boat. the only silicone should be used to bed the cabin windows (the stock windows). in the case of the windows the silicone acts as a gasket and will not 'eat' the Lexan. silicone isn't a good adhesive and very easily comes 'unattached' to whatever you thought you stuck in place (which is why the stock M15 windows are really held in place by bolts). _after_ the centerboard pin is back in place bed the ends with 3M 4200 or Sikaflex 291. using 3M 5200 (or similar) will require 'chipping' if you ever again need to service the board/pennant. :: Dave Scobie --- On Thu, 5/16/13, Scott Larson <salarson2(a)comcast.net> wrote: > I found that the little bubbles on > the bottom just sanded smooth without > even going through the gelcoat. I think my procedure > to paint the bottom > will be to suspend the boat using straps to first > paint the CB trunk side > and bottom (And loosen the stuck CB). When that dries, > I will mask that and > rest the boat on its keel and keep it from tipping sideways > using the chain > plates and rear cleats. Then I will paint the rest of > the bottom. > > As for the CB bolt. Should I dig the silicone out of > the bolt hole? If I > do, do I need to cover it with anything? If so, would > that marine fairing > compound that works sort of like Bondo work? If I used > that, would it be > possible to chip it out at a later date (Without damaging > the keel) to > service the centerboard? > > Scott Larson >

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Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15
by Scott Larson 16 May '13

16 May '13

I found that the little bubbles on the bottom just sanded smooth without even going through the gelcoat. I think my procedure to paint the bottom will be to suspend the boat using straps to first paint the CB trunk side and bottom (And loosen the stuck CB). When that dries, I will mask that and rest the boat on its keel and keep it from tipping sideways using the chain plates and rear cleats. Then I will paint the rest of the bottom. As for the CB bolt. Should I dig the silicone out of the bolt hole? If I do, do I need to cover it with anything? If so, would that marine fairing compound that works sort of like Bondo work? If I used that, would it be possible to chip it out at a later date (Without damaging the keel) to service the centerboard? Scott Larson

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