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Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 Jib Track and Car System
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 30 Apr '15

30 Apr '15

In a message dated 4/29/2015 8:53:40 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, scoobscobie(a)gmail.com writes: David: my M15 had jib sheet cars. they did improve the boat's sailing ability. if you look at the photo on the home page of my old boat's www-site you can see the aft end of the sheet car track on the port cabin top - http://www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred/ Jerry placed the jib sheet fairlead, or bullseye, on the M15's cabin top in the 'generally the best location'. he didn't install sheet lead cars or tracks to keep the boat cost down (the M15 was designed and built to a price point). i was going to put a sheet car track setup on Sal&Gail Glesser's M15, JUSTUS, but we changed our 'collective minds' once the Sage 15 project started. i purchased the hardware (all Schaefer tracks and sheet car blocks). if you are interested in this hardware let me know as it is just sitting on a shelf in the shop. send email to dave(a)sagemarine.com -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com On Wed, Apr 29, 2015 at 8:55 AM, David Grah via montgomery_boats < montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> wrote: > I hoped someone could share experience or insights with installing a track > and car system for jib sheets on a 1986 Montgomery 15. > > Last year I purchased a storm jib for my Montgomery 15 to supplement my > standard jib. I added new fairleads to get the sheets going in a better > direction with the new little jib. Doing that got me looking at the sheet > angles for my standard jib. Depending on my point of sail, I am not sure > the fairlead for the standard jib is in the best possible location. A track > and car system would seem like a good way to provide good sheeting angles > for different sails on different points of sail. > > Is installing a track and car system on my boat a reasonable idea? If it > is a reasonable idea, what's a good source for the parts (ideally make and > part numbers)? > Any insights appreciated. > > > David Grah > Bishop California > Montgomery 15 - Sky > >

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Montgomery 15 Jib Track and Car System
by David Grah 29 Apr '15

29 Apr '15

Very interesting. Thanks Tom! Message: 5 Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2015 12:35:38 -0500 From: Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 Jib Track and Car System Message-ID: <CA+TbpAVdtnioGq4BmU=75tvsnLb7PokCSckW2WFi=zWMG3P34A(a)mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Hi David, I will have an 80% jib this year so looked into that athwartship track system for it and found that a Barber hauler setup would suit me just fine. With it you can end up with two active jib sheets with which to position your jib clew any number of places relative to the centerline of your boat. I made my barber hauler out of a handy length of line, about 15 feet, a snatch block to attach it to the foot of the mast and a second snap shackle to encircle the active jib sheet. The line will run from my cockpit through the snatchblock at the foot of the mast out to the snap shackle which will slide along the active jib sheet. Any snatch block will do for the mast foot. I bought a Dwyer halyard organizer plate for under the mast step, Part # DH288, and a rope sheet snatchblock from Sailcare, Part # SO 159-0001. The halyard plate allows me to attach the snatch block to the forward hole in the halyard plate on either side of the mast depending on the side the active jib sheet is on. Now I can trim the jib within ten degrees of the centerline of the boat if necessary. By playing the two lines, the active jib sheet and the barber hauler line, you can trim the jib to where it draws properly. No holes in the deck. Google Barber Hauler to see the concept better. By the way I have purchased quite a bit of hardware while regigging my "17" and a lot of it came from Sailcare. They use Suncore products as well as Viadana, an Italian outfit that makes very good hardware. The specs on all of it compare well to Harken, etc. at a fraction of the price. They are good people to work with also. Just keep track of what you order by number and quantity as when you order 20 or 30 pieces numbers can get crossed, etc. Good luck, Tom B, Mont. 17 #258, "AS IS"

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Montgomery 15 Jib Track and Car System
by Thomas Buzzi 29 Apr '15

29 Apr '15

Hi David, I will have an 80% jib this year so looked into that athwartship track system for it and found that a Barber hauler setup would suit me just fine. With it you can end up with two active jib sheets with which to position your jib clew any number of places relative to the centerline of your boat. I made my barber hauler out of a handy length of line, about 15 feet, a snatch block to attach it to the foot of the mast and a second snap shackle to encircle the active jib sheet. The line will run from my cockpit through the snatchblock at the foot of the mast out to the snap shackle which will slide along the active jib sheet. Any snatch block will do for the mast foot. I bought a Dwyer halyard organizer plate for under the mast step, Part # DH288, and a rope sheet snatchblock from Sailcare, Part # SO 159-0001. The halyard plate allows me to attach the snatch block to the forward hole in the halyard plate on either side of the mast depending on the side the active jib sheet is on. Now I can trim the jib within ten degrees of the centerline of the boat if necessary. By playing the two lines, the active jib sheet and the barber hauler line, you can trim the jib to where it draws properly. No holes in the deck. Google Barber Hauler to see the concept better. By the way I have purchased quite a bit of hardware while regigging my "17" and a lot of it came from Sailcare. They use Suncore products as well as Viadana, an Italian outfit that makes very good hardware. The specs on all of it compare well to Harken, etc. at a fraction of the price. They are good people to work with also. Just keep track of what you order by number and quantity as when you order 20 or 30 pieces numbers can get crossed, etc. Good luck, Tom B, Mont. 17 #258, "AS IS"

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Montgomery 15 Jib Track and Car System
by David Grah 29 Apr '15

29 Apr '15

I hoped someone could share experience or insights with installing a track and car system for jib sheets on a 1986 Montgomery 15. Last year I purchased a storm jib for my Montgomery 15 to supplement my standard jib. I added new fairleads to get the sheets going in a better direction with the new little jib. Doing that got me looking at the sheet angles for my standard jib. Depending on my point of sail, I am not sure the fairlead for the standard jib is in the best possible location. A track and car system would seem like a good way to provide good sheeting angles for different sails on different points of sail. Is installing a track and car system on my boat a reasonable idea? If it is a reasonable idea, what's a good source for the parts (ideally make and part numbers)? Any insights appreciated. David Grah Bishop California Montgomery 15 - Sky

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Jib pole
by George Iemmolo 24 Apr '15

24 Apr '15

I have just finished making an adjustable jib pole for my M15. I was looking for the "J" dimension to set the pole to length. I know that it is only important/necessary if you are racing but I would like to mark it on the pole. George Merry Helen II 96 M15 #602

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Pacific trailer fix
by Rick Davies 17 Apr '15

17 Apr '15

Hi all, One of the bunk boards on my Pacific trailer has broken right at the middle support bracket and needs to be replaced. Has anyone had experience doing this? Looks like a standard 2x4, I assume pressure-treated. Does it need to be pre-formed, or can the bend be muscled in as it's installed? Doesn't look too hard, but if there are any hard spots it'd be good to know in advance. Thanks for any advice, Rick M17 #633 Lynne L

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Launch day
by Thomas Howe 17 Apr '15

17 Apr '15

2 pics, at the courtesy dock at the ramp, and in the slip at Perry Yacht Club, Perry Lake, KS. www.PerryYachtClub.com On Jan 20, 2015 10:17 PM, "Steven C. Gordon" <stevencgordon(a)gmail.com> wrote: Thanks for all the spreader tips (no pun). I'll try them out when it warms up a little. By the way I noticed a thread from last year asking about Montgomery owners in Minnesota. I sail on the St Croix River out of Bayport. I've thought about a flotilla to Lake Pepin some day. The Apostle Islands are also on my list. Steve On January 20, 2015, at 5:01 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt(a)gmail.com> wrote: Brion Toss, who might know as much about spreaders as jerry, agrees. If the spreader is angled properly (bisecting the angle formed by the shrouds), it functions as a pure compression member. On Tue, Jan 20, 2015 at 9:39 AM, <jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org> wrote: > Steve- are your spreaders the factory-supplied ones with the plastic tips? > If so, I'd move them up to bisect the angle and tighten the screws; if > not, > move them up and wrap them tightly with light stainless wire, then wrap > with > tape to save your genoa. I'm sure a bit of droop wouldn't hurt a thing, > but the book says to bisect the angle so it's important to be cool. > > -----Original Message----- > From: GARY M HYDE > Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 9:20 AM > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Spreaders > > My M17 spreaders are horizontal as those of most sloops seem to be. They > work just fine. > > ~~~_/)~~~ Gary > Sent from my iPhone :-) > > > On Jan 19, 2015, at 9:21 PM, Steven C. Gordon <stevencgordon(a)gmail.com> > > wrote: > > > > I bought an M17 (#494) last spring. It has been a great little boat, > > regularly sailing past much larger ones. One thing has been nagging me > > though -- the mast spreaders are perpendicular to the mast or maybe even > > droop a bit. Normally they should tilt slightly upward so they bisect > > the > > angle of the upper shroud with equal angles above and below the > > spreader. > > Is this (perpendicular spreaders) normal for the M17 or do I need to > > somehow adjust the mast fittings? They don't appear to be bent or > > adjustable. Any thoughts? > > > > Steve > > M17 #494 > > Antidote > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > SPAMfighter has removed 2902 of my spam emails to date. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan > http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen > > > >

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Montgomery 15 Tiller for Sale
by David Grah 13 Apr '15

13 Apr '15

I wanted a longer tiller for my Montgomery 15 so bought a nice laminated curved one from J O Woodworks. I wasn't sure if that bought one was long enough so I also made an even longer simple straight one out of oak to try out. The tiller I made makes it easier to sit forward and doesn't get in the way too much, even with 5 people in the cockpit (with some water coming up through the centerboard drain hole). As a result, I think I will try to find a good home for the nice J O Woodworks tiller. I think I paid around $90. Is anyone interested? The tiller that came with the boat when I bought it used (it's a 1986 model) is 34 and 7/8 inches long from end to end. The J O Woodworks one is 40 and 5/8 inches long, and the one I made is 43 and 7/8 inches. David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky

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Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom
by David Grah 13 Apr '15

13 Apr '15

I'm planning to refinish the bottom of my Montgomery 15 soon and have no experience doing such a thing. I wondered if the group had any comments or suggestions on my planned approach. The boat has several coats of blue ablative bottom paint on it now. They look bad. They are faded and the upper edge of the bottom pain doesn't follow the waterline very well on the starboard side.The boat probably won't be in the water for more than a week at a time for as long as I own it and is usually in fresh water when it is in the water. The hull is white with a blue stripe at the top. I plan to mount 4 - 4 inch by 4 inch posts, 8 foot long, in my garage. The bottoms of the posts will rest on the garage slab and the tops will be bolted or screwed to the joists in the garage. I will brace the joists with diagonal 2 inch by 4 inch to the garage walls (these 2 by 4's are along the bottom of the joists to the plate at the top of the wall). The posts will support the boat and the joists will keep the posts vertical. If things go right there will be very little load on the joists. I'll nail 3/4 inch plywood squares to the tops of the posts and cut groves in the edges to run 1/8 inch cables. I'll move the boat on the trailer into the garage and jack the trailer up a few inches and put it on blocks. I will attach 1/8 inch cables to the back unused holes where the shrouds attach at the edge of the boat and to the cleats on either side at the stern of the boat and loop the cables over the tops of the posts and clamp them.Then I would lower and remove the trailer. When working on the boat, I would place "kickers" under the lip at the hull to deck joint on the side I am working on to lessen the changes that the boat would roll toward me if it came down for some reason. I would also put blocks under the keel. I would use Citristrip stripping gel to remove most of the bottom paint. I have tested it after it was recommended in this group and found it works well. Depending how hard I scrape it can take off some of the gel coat under the bottom paint as well. I'd wipe the bottom with paint thinner and sand it with 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the remaining blue bottom paint residue. I'd wipe it down with acetone and then sand again with 220 grit sandpaper, probably wet, and wipe with acetone again. I think I will be left with white gel coat over the bottom stained slightly blue. I'd brush on two coats of off-white Interlux Brightside one-part paint up to about 1/4 inch above the top of the old bottom paint and then add a two coat red stripe about 4 inches wide to cover the uneven top of the current bottom paint on the starboard side. I figure the new Interlux won't match the gelcoat so need something to cover this transition. The edge of where the current bottom paint is would always be within the red strip by at least an inch. I'd put the trailer back under the boat and jack it up to take the weight of the posts and the cables, then lower the trailer and take the boat out of the garage and hopefully be done. Does this seem workable? Anything I should plan to do differently? Thanks! David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky

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Looking for M15 345
by Tom Smith 13 Apr '15

13 Apr '15

Sold this boat a few years back and would like to get her back. Named Chukar at the time, sail number 345. Anybody seen this boat? Probably mid-west or further to the east. Thanks. Tom

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