- montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

M-boats:M-17 in Race to Alaska
by Thomas Buzzi 10 Jun '15

10 Jun '15

Will be great to find out how the 17' did and what the problems were, if any, to overcome with that hull choice. Tom B. M17, "AS IS"

4 5

Re: M_Boats: M-boats:M-17 in Race to Alaska
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 10 Jun '15

10 Jun '15

Looks fine from here..... In a message dated 6/10/2015 10:21:58 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, gail(a)zeliga.com writes: Am I the only one for whom the tracker is not showing updates since I checked it around 3 AM? On Wed, Jun 10, 2015 at 10:14 AM, Dave Scobie <scoobscobie(a)gmail.com> wrote: > Look up Team Excellent Adventure on Facebook. They covered some of the > mods there. > > :: Dave Scobie > On Jun 10, 2015 11:12 AM, "Thomas Buzzi" <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > Will be great to find out how the 17' did and what the problems were, if > > any, to overcome with that hull choice. > > Tom B. M17, "AS IS" > > >

1 0

Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom
by David Grah 10 Jun '15

10 Jun '15

In case is anyone interested in an update on this project, I thought I'd provide one. First, I'd like to say I appreciate all the input I received on the project, especially from Stan Susman, Interlux representative, and Larry Yake. The input helped make the project a success. The project essentially went as planned except for the following: Instead of 4 by 4 posts I used two 2 by 4's screwed together to make something equivalent to a 4 by 4. This was cheaper but also allowed me to extend one 2 by 4 up next to the ceiling joist and screw it into the joist to keep the joist from twisting. I didn't use cables to hold the boat up but used two loops each side of the boat of 4000 pound strength tubular nylon webbing over the ceiling joists. Because there were no cables I didn't need the plywood squares. I also left out the lateral bracing. I went over the bottom 3 times with Citristip. The first application took most of the paint off but a number of tougher spots required an additional 2 applications. I didn't use acetone to clean the bottom. Instead I used thinner for the paint I used. Based on Stan Susman's recommendation, I used Interlux VC Performance Epoxy for bottom paint. I sail in some pristine lakes and liked the idea of not having biocide in the bottom paint. I put on 4 coats and it looks great! I didn't add a waterline stripe. The bottom looked so good the hull above the waterline looked a little shabby. I was thinking about painting the rest of the hull but ended up talking to Larry Yake and, based on his experience polishing his Corn Dog, elected to polish the hull instead. I used rubbing compound, polishing compound, and non-silicone car wax I had around and, I have to say, it looks great. I took the opportunity to replace the registration numbers on the boat with a decal from Decal Zone at the same time and that made a big improvement as well. The whole process was a lot of work but I have to admit I like looking at the finished product. The boat looks really good! From: David Grah <d_b_grah(a)yahoo.com> Date: April 12, 2015 at 6:07:55 PM PDT To: For and About Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Plan to Refinish Montgomery 15 Bottom Reply-To: David Grah <d_b_grah(a)yahoo.com> I'm planning to refinish the bottom of my Montgomery 15 soon and have no experience doing such a thing. I wondered if the group had any comments or suggestions on my planned approach. The boat has several coats of blue ablative bottom paint on it now. They look bad. They are faded and the upper edge of the bottom pain doesn't follow the waterline very well on the starboard side.The boat probably won't be in the water for more than a week at a time for as long as I own it and is usually in fresh water when it is in the water. The hull is white with a blue stripe at the top. I plan to mount 4 - 4 inch by 4 inch posts, 8 foot long, in my garage. The bottoms of the posts will rest on the garage slab and the tops will be bolted or screwed to the joists in the garage. I will brace the joists with diagonal 2 inch by 4 inch to the garage walls (these 2 by 4's are along the bottom of the joists to the plate at the top of the wall). The posts will support the boat and the joists will keep the posts vertical. If things go right there will be very little load on the joists. I'll nail 3/4 inch plywood squares to the tops of the posts and cut groves in the edges to run 1/8 inch cables. I'll move the boat on the trailer into the garage and jack the trailer up a few inches and put it on blocks. I will attach 1/8 inch cables to the back unused holes where the shrouds attach at the edge of the boat and to the cleats on either side at the stern of the boat and loop the cables over the tops of the posts and clamp them.Then I would lower and remove the trailer. When working on the boat, I would place "kickers" under the lip at the hull to deck joint on the side I am working on to lessen the changes that the boat would roll toward me if it came down for some reason. I would also put blocks under the keel. I would use Citristrip stripping gel to remove most of the bottom paint. I have tested it after it was recommended in this group and found it works well. Depending how hard I scrape it can take off some of the gel coat under the bottom paint as well. I'd wipe the bottom with paint thinner and sand it with 60 grit sandpaper to remove most of the remaining blue bottom paint residue. I'd wipe it down with acetone and then sand again with 220 grit sandpaper, probably wet, and wipe with acetone again. I think I will be left with white gel coat over the bottom stained slightly blue. I'd brush on two coats of off-white Interlux Brightside one-part paint up to about 1/4 inch above the top of the old bottom paint and then add a two coat red stripe about 4 inches wide to cover the uneven top of the current bottom paint on the starboard side. I figure the new Interlux won't match the gelcoat so need something to cover this transition. The edge of where the current bottom paint is would always be within the red strip by at least an inch. I'd put the trailer back under the boat and jack it up to take the weight of the posts and the cables, then lower the trailer and take the boat out of the garage and hopefully be done. Does this seem workable? Anything I should plan to do differently? Thanks! David GrahBishop CaliforniaMontgomery 15 - Sky

2 1

Re: M_Boats: M-17 in Race to Alaska
by SALGLESSER＠aol.com 10 Jun '15

10 Jun '15

Hi Gail, This is what I'm using. http://r2ak.com/ sal In a message dated 6/9/2015 10:17:42 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, gail(a)zeliga.com writes: I could not find it on the r2ak.com page, but did find it here http://tracker.r2ak.com/ On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 9:11 PM, Willy Gorrissen <gorrissen(a)hotmail.com> wrote: > Just go to the Race to Alaska web page and the tracker is right there. I > think the web page is r2ak.com. > > Willy Gorrissen > > > On Jun 9, 2015, at 9:13 PM, Gail Russell <gail(a)zeliga.com> wrote: > > > > Turns out that my son's friend's team is in the lead. The Elsie Piddock. > > They made it thru the Seymour Narrows Rapids just before the window > closed, > > leaving everyone else to wait for the next tidal window. Wonderful to > live > > vicariously. > > > > If anyone knows if there is a Spot Tracker for this that the public can > > see, I would love to know how to find it. > > > > Gail > > > >> On Tue, Jun 9, 2015 at 7:53 PM, Gail Russell <gail(a)zeliga.com> wrote: > >> > >> Maybe someone posted this already. An M-17 in the Race to Alaska. > >> http://r2ak.com/registered-participants/#toggle-id-8 > >> > >> My son's friend is crewing on an F-25C that is captained by a superb > >> navigator who has a bit of age on him. It appears to me that this race > may > >> well involve a test of whether this proposition is true or false: > >> "Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill" > >> > >> Gail > >> > >

1 0

Centerboard removal
by Thomas Buzzi 08 Jun '15

08 Jun '15

When removing the cast iron centerboard, and if fairing it at all, be sure the hull is level side to side when replacing the board. I managed, during the months the cb was out and being faired to allow some of the boat jacks to settle just a bit. The result was that the boat was no longer level port to starboard and twisted JUST a bit and bound the cb when I replaced it. After some time spent futsing with it I checked the level, trued it up and the board slipped right back into the slot. Tom B.

1 0

M boats centerboard washers
by Thomas Buzzi 08 Jun '15

08 Jun '15

My 17 had washers at the bottom of the bolt head and nut holes, none actually inside the cb slot. I just replaced them with a new bolt using the stock sleeve bearing inside the actual cast iron board. Tom B.

1 0

M-12 for sale, Eugene, OR
by John Schinnerer 05 Jun '15

05 Jun '15

http://eugene.craigslist.org/boa/5058369047.html Just stumbled over this...in case anyone is looking for one... cheers, John S. -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

1 0

M17 Griselda original fixed keel 1974 hull #20
by jnschum 05 Jun '15

05 Jun '15

Unlike larger slips, small slips are readily available. Ventura West Marine is very nice and has many small slips available. Joe

1 0

M17 Griselda original fixed keel 1974 hull #20
by Bowman, Jeremy 04 Jun '15

04 Jun '15

Hey all, I am the owner of Griselda, hull #20, one of the very few M17 original fixed keel variants. I'm moving from Texas to Ventura County this summer and am looking for a slip, or at least a temporary (until I find a slip) storage. Anyone have a solid lead? Thanks, Jeremy

1 0

Centreboard washers?
by Bill Wickett 04 Jun '15

04 Jun '15

Has anyone installed washers (on either side of the c/b at the pivot pin? I'm not sure if this anything that would help at all. Thought I would ask while my c/b is out for bottom paint. Any details appreciated. Bill Wickett

1 0