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Bimini Top
by Steve R. 30 Dec '01

30 Dec '01

Pictures Please! Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY --- Stan Winarski <winarski(a)home.com> wrote: > >I just fabricated a bimini top for Carol II with >stainless steel fixtures but aluminum poles and bows.

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Re: M_Boats: Hull Crack
by Peter Jacobs 29 Dec '01

29 Dec '01

Whoa ... Tom!!! Easy on those picture sizes. Some of us are still using dial-up connections :( -Peter- ======================= Peter Jacobs, M17 "Enfin" Victoria BC Canada

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Re: M_Boats: Hull Crack
by AirEvacLen＠aol.com 29 Dec '01

29 Dec '01

In a message dated 12/29/01 6:44:35 PM US Mountain Standard Time, Rotortom2(a)aol.com writes: > I have very little experience with fiberglass work, but this seems like a > reasonable fix Tom Can you get to the crack from the inside? E-mail me direct. Lenny

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question about Montgomery owner
by charles frosolone 29 Dec '01

29 Dec '01

Hello I am interested in purchasing a trailerable sailboat such as the Montgomery. I live in Oak Harbor Washington. There is an owner of a Montgomery on your list who is located in Bellvue, WA which is close to Oak Harbor. His name is Eric Fromm. Could you forward this email to him to see if there was a chance we could see his boat and see how he likes the Montgomery? Thank you Chuck Frosolone 360 679 3095 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.

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Hull Crack
by Rotortom2＠aol.com 29 Dec '01

29 Dec '01

We are going to Lake Pleasant, AZ for a week or so, hoping for a little wind and mild temperatures. I was just in the shop doing a "pre-sail" inspection, and noticed that the front outboard roller of the trailer on the port side was distorting the hull. I went into the cabin and about 8" forward of the battery I found a crack about 1.5" long. (see picture). When I relieved the pressure on that roller, the crack closed up so it was barely noticeable. The crack is not visible from the outside at all. I was thinking about putting a couple of layers of fiberglass over the cracked area, then reinforcing the area by glassing over a one or two inch diameter tube (cardboard or pvc) to provide a reinforcement to the general area. Of course I will adjust the trailer rollers to prevent this from recurring. I have very little experience with fiberglass work, but this seems like a reasonable fix. Has anyone on the list had this sort of problem, and can anyone suggest a better fix? Thanks in advance for your help. Tom Woodworth M-17 "Wild Hare"

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Re: M_Boats: Window & Fitting Leaks
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 29 Dec '01

29 Dec '01

Six months ago I removed deck hardware I bedded with Boatlife in 1986. It was plyable and stuck to the glass like glue. The material was definitely hardening from age but not even close to brittle. Before Boatlife I used commercial window cauking which was a high grade two part polysulfide mix...the stuff has been around for a long time. Tip on Boatlife...spritz it with water to start the curing process to get the surface through the tacky period quickly. This will keep the bead from gathering dirt. It doesn't hurt the application. Bill P.

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Re: M_Boats: Window & Fitting Leaks
by Harvey Wilson 28 Dec '01

28 Dec '01

>> You want a Polysulfide-based sealant. It bonds best to various surface energy levels, and remains flexible when cured. We used BoatLife, but 3M 100 would work too. Look in BoatUS or WestMarine catalog under Polysulfide and go from there.<< I used Boatlife polysulfide on Stargazer's windows and they've held up for nearly 3 years now. Harvey/Ga M-17 Stargazer #294

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Suspension
by Thomas Howe 28 Dec '01

28 Dec '01

Is there any reason why this shouldn't work on a M17? The chainplate are on the side of the cabintop, but I would assume that the stresses would be spread out pretty equally. I have always used slings and chainfalls to hoist my boats, but if the chainplates would hold the load it would make the job many times simpler. What kind of attachment to the plates do you use? S hooks? I'm intrigued by the idea of lifting Osprey II more easily than my current method, which works but causes some gnashing of teeth when I'm trying to locate the straps. > [Original Message] > From: Stan Winarski <winarski(a)home.com> > To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Date: 12/28/01 12:46:38 PM > Subject: Re: M_Boats: OK, a couple more questions... > > The Montgomery will hang very nicely suspended by the front and side > chain plates and the stern traveler. I hang mine in my garage (eye hooks > deeply inserted into overhead joists) by raising the front of the > trailer to hook the bow then using come-alongs on the sides tying off a > stern line as the stern rises. > > Once raised lash safety timbers (two to a side) and remove the trailer. > I've used this method three times to paint the hull and once to repair > the swing keel. I also position a very substantial block an inch or two > under the keel so that if anything ever did give way, it wouldn't have > more than a few inches to drop. > > Be careful lowering and raising the centerboard, it will drop like a > very heavy rock. > > Stan > M15, #177 Carol II > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats --- Thomas Howe --- Service Integrity Results --- J.C.Nichols Residential, ACRES Realtors --- Your Link to Real Estate in Lawrence, Kansas --- 785-550-1169 --- TEHowe(a)JCNichols.com --- http://www.home.earthlink.net/~thomashowe/

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Re: M_Boats: Suspension
by Thomas Howe 28 Dec '01

28 Dec '01

Thanks I'm not concerned about the lifting structure jsut the boat. I built a gantry for lifting this and other heavy objects, my wife is a blacksmith and the iron gets heavy! > [Original Message] > From: Stan Winarski <winarski(a)home.com> > To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Date: 12/28/01 1:20:50 PM > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Suspension > > The M15 weighs 750# right out of the shower - that's (at best - when > everything is equal) 150# at each point of suspension but it can and > does go a lot higher on a single point if she swings out of balance. > > I've got a one car garage and little weight on the floor above it so the > joists can handle that. > > You might do as I did the first time, lifted her a few inches above the > trailer and slept on in (not in it!). The next morning she was still > handing and there were no stress marks at any of the suspension points > so I took her all the way up. > > The first time I ever had her raised at a boat yard, they used slings, > did not secure them properly, and I almost lost her. That's when I > decided I could do as well if not better on my own. > > Stan > m-15, #177, Carol II > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats --- Thomas Howe --- Service Integrity Results --- J.C.Nichols Residential, ACRES Realtors --- Your Link to Real Estate in Lawrence, Kansas ---785-550-1169 --- TEHowe(a)JCNichols.com --- http://www.home.earthlink.net/~thomashowe/

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RE: M_Boats: OK, a couple more questions...
by Morris, Giles 28 Dec '01

28 Dec '01

>surprised to find that both are quite small The cavernous (or bottomless) cockpit lockers are a somewhat two-edged sword. They let you get into the hull very easily, but they also let water get in there very easily. I installed a couple of Bomar hatches behind the lockers for access to the hull, but five minutes with a Sawzall will get you the bottomless lockers if you really want them. The way I worked on my centerboard may not be the preferred method: I put the boat on blocks while I worked on the trailer and it fell off them to lie on its side. A better way would be to put it on a Travelift while you looked at it. Giles Morris Arlington VA Vancouver 25 #002 "Dolphin" Montgomery 15 #264 "Umiaq" Sundry kayaks

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