December 2008 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

more m-15 questions
by Rick Langer 05 Dec '08

05 Dec '08

Mrh, Sorry I don't know your name. I installed an 11" opening hatch w/screen in the foredeck and am very happy with it. I even sleep with my head forward right under the hatch. I considered putting one on front of the cabin, but the camber is extreme there and I was afraid that I might compromise the maststep which is on the roof of the cabin without using a compression post. I also considered opening ports on the forward sides of the cabin, but nixed it for the same reason. For me the bottom line is I need air flow through the cabin. I get claustrophobic in that small space and the lack of air just exaggerates it. Another enhancement is to leave the companionway hatch as far open as possible. This requires a screen and if it rains a bimini or boom tent helps keep the water out. A lot of cruisers carry umbrellas and I've seen Doug Kelch prop up his on a rainy night and leave his hatch wide open. Rick M15 #337 Bluebird

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East cruise for 2009
by Frank Durant 04 Dec '08

04 Dec '08

Thanks for offering Tod.Please put me on the list as well. Have a great Christmas

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idea
by Arnold Sharpe 04 Dec '08

04 Dec '08

M sailors, A couple of months ago I recall someone out there asking how one goes about accurately painting the waterline on a lapstrake hull....like my M-17 "Little Breeze". A good question because my last attempt was pretty sloppy (I had a difficult time treading water while trying to paint ). This afternoon while working in the shop I got an idea which I am anxious to try and wondered if anyone had already tried it. Among my many tools is a laser level. What if I put "Little Breeze" on her trailer.leveled her up fore and aft and athwart ships, set the laser level up about 20-30 ft away, adjusted it to match the existing waterline mark at any place and then penciled where the laser line was along the rest of the hull. As soon as I get a clear (not raining) day I'll try it and let you all know, in the meantime, if you have any comments, or have already tried it, let me know...Regards. Arnold Sharpe, M-17 #265, "Little Breeze"

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How'd you do it?
by Brian Gilbert 04 Dec '08

04 Dec '08

Hey Mark: If you cut sails for Ulman, then maybe you know... how did you guys drive a needle through the corners of a sail? For the handwork and finishing, I mean. For example... I replaced the leather chafe patches on the corners of one of my sails. They were about 4, maybe 5 layers of resin-filled Dacron. My "sailmaking" machine wouldn't even consider punching through this stuff (My machine is similar to a SailRite Ultra, but not the genuine article. Probably from the same factory. With the Monster balance wheel, it wouldn't even go partly through.) I bought a bunch of good needles, but still couldn't come close to pushing the needle through (yes, I used a sail palm). Or when I managed to get the needle in, my fingers were nowhere strong enough to pull the needle through. In the end, I finished the job by punching a hole with a very sharp homemade awl, a stump, and a hammer, and then followed up with the needle. It was a giant pain in the ass and took forever. I kept thinking, "there's GOT to be a better way!" Is there a better way? Thanks BG Brian Gilbert Fix It And Sail, The Complete Trailer-Sailer On Dec 4, 2008, at 11:23 AM, montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com wrote: > Hello, > How old is the sail? Lots of go fast boats I've raced on in the past > have had mylar laminate sails. > Some with carbon fiber, some with kevlar, all awesome performing sails > when they are new, but the one thing they have in common is a short > life span. They begin to loose their shape over time and the draft > shifts back. > If they've been subjected to heavy use during the coarse of a few > racing seasons they can start to come apart. > Then they become the rags we used for practice. > Unless you are one of those lucky guys who can buy new sails every two > or three years I'd stick with Dacron. > But there are some other fabrics out there that are a bit higher > performing than good ol' Dacron, that > are not laminates. > > Just reminiscing - I cut sails for Ullman once upon a time. > > Mark E > M17F/D > #103 > AMY >

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East Coast List
by Michael Akridge 04 Dec '08

04 Dec '08

Doug, Please add my name to your East coast list. Michael M17 Pepperjack #652 twosailors(a)att.net

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mylar sails
by Chris and Jeff Packer 04 Dec '08

04 Dec '08

Does anyone have mylar sails? My 170 genoa began to delaminate on the top panel this summer after it took a fairly good gust of wind. The mylar film seperated from the cloth after the film gave way at a seam. The exposed sides are quite sticky. The area is not that large and the rest of the sail looks good. Anyone know if this can be fixed? Someone mentioned the possibility of using an iron with some kind of tape at the seam. Its a nice light air sail (1.9 oz material). Any suggestions? Another rather odd question that borders on my own stupidity for even asking it... After launching my M23 this summer, I noticed the rudder pulled to one side quite hard while under power. Upon closer inspection, I noticed the shape of the rudder below the water line is fairly flat on one side and very concave on the other. I immediately concluded that the mahogany rudder had warped distorting the shape. Upon showing a woodworker friend of mine he said to me: "It looks like it was made that way!" I thought... no way, why would anyone make an unbalanced rudder. I have since looked at it again and it is a straight piece of mahogany above the waterline where it has not been faired. Then it looks like it has been faired into an airplane wing (almost flat on one side, very concave on the other) below the waterline. The boat was set up for racing, but it seems to me that any advantage you might gain from such a shape on one tack, would be totally negated on the other tack. Hence I have had more weather helm on one tack and at times lee helm on the other tack. So my stupid question is: Can anyone think of a valid reason that a rudder might have been built that way on purpose? Or is it just a cleverly disguised warped rudder? To get it symmetrical, I will have to do some serious planing losing inches off the trailing edge that will have to be built back up using epoxy and fiberglass. Even if there is a reason for it... I'm quite certain that it is not for me. Just curious about any thoughts/opinions. Jeff M23 Clarity

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Russ Lindquist added you as a friend on Reunion.com!
by Russ Lindquist 04 Dec '08

04 Dec '08

Hi, I looked for you on Reunion.com, but you weren't there. Please connect with me so we can keep in touch. -Russ Do You Know Russ? YES - Connect with Russ, and see who's searching for you http://smtp26.mail.reunion.com:80/track?type=click&mailingid=14900&messagei… NO - I don't know Russ http://smtp26.mail.reunion.com:80/track?type=click&mailingid=14900&messagei… ---------------------------- Reunion.com - Find Everyone from Your Past. You have received this e-mail because a Reunion.com Member sent an invitation to this e-mail address. For assistance, please refer to our FAQ or Contact Us. http://smtp26.mail.reunion.com:80/track?type=click&mailingid=14900&messagei… Our Address: 2118 Wilshire Blvd., Box 1008, Santa Monica, CA 90403-5784

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My new book
by Brian Gilbert 04 Dec '08

04 Dec '08

Hi Sean: Thanks for asking about my book. It isn't out yet... the word from the folks at International Marine is that is should be out around April. I understand it's at the printers about now. We'll see, I guess. When it does come out, the best place to get it would be from Josh at Small Craft Advisor. I am on the lookout for an unloved M23, but for me to be able to afford it, it'd need to be REALLY unloved, then it becomes a massive rebuild project... kinda like what you had to do. Plus I'd have to sell my M17... I have a strict one-boat rule. If I ever win the lottery, I think I'll buy a nice big heated warehouse out in the country, and start an "old molds home" for out of production Hess designs (like the NorSea27) and lease shop space to other folks by the month. It's about time to pull my 17 home for some attention and rebuilds... waiting on a non-rainy day. Best BG Brian Gilbert Author Fix It And Sail, The Complete Trailer Sailer On Dec 3, 2008, at 2:01 AM, montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com wrote: > Brian, > > I know what you mean. Keep the faith! There's a couple out there > somewhere. > Someone is going to keep digging and come up with one! The internet > shrinks > the whole world. I know that the last couple of "finds" have been > boats located > by searching the web. > > Is you new book out yet? If so where can I get a copy and if not when > is it > expected? > > Sean > M23 "Dauntless" > www.havasumontgomerys.piczo.com

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Re: M_Boats: Rudder shape
by John R. Butler 04 Dec '08

04 Dec '08

I just happen to have "Rejoyce!"'s rudder off for refinishing (in Cetol Marine Light this time, the spars on my old Cape Cod Catboat still look good after several years, much better than polyurethane exterior varnishes), checked it, looks perfectly symmetrical. And it has been voting for only a year or two. Guess we are lucky. John R. Butler theoldcat(a)cox.net First M15 was "Joy", '83 #264 Now sail "Rejoyce!", '86 #361

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Re: M_Boats: M15 ventilation
by John R. Butler 04 Dec '08

04 Dec '08

I have one of the Nicro solar/battery powered vents in my foredeck, literally runs all the time, ventilation no problem. For anchoring overnight in the summer when the weather is "hot and sticky," I anchor by the stern, any vagrant breeze keeps the cabin down to ambient. John R. Butler theoldcat(a)cox.net First M15 was "Joy", '83 #264 Now sail "Rejoyce!", '86 #361

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