February 2005 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: Regarding Ida Sailor Marine M15 new rudder (Long)
by bobjudy2＠comcast.net 18 Feb '05

18 Feb '05

I bought a new rudder from IdaSailor last fall for my M15. My wood rudder was 42" but I thought I would try a longer one, since I could always cut it off. The longest they offered was 48", so I went with that. I thought one factor that would limit rudder length would be if it hit the ground while on the trailer. The 42" rudder just cleared the ground when I had my original TrailRite trailer; with my new Pacific trailer, I had more clearance, hence the longer blade was worth a try. I know that this should not be an important consideration from the view of a naval architech, but if I was making something for general sales, I would want to consider some of my 'Damn Fool' clients who would blame me for their mistakes. (I always remove my rudder when launching and recovery, but still occasionally qualify for the DamnFool category) Long story short: I think the longer rudder sails better, but it is significantly heaver and the kick up feature does not work very well. I haven't figured out if it needs a longer lift lever from the rudder to the tiller, or a more extreme redesign (move the pivot hole?) I do not spend much time in thin water, so I will probably live with the longer rudder and poor kick-up performance. (It will kick-up but not lift-up all the way) It has also aquired a brownish tint from the crud in SF Bay. I have to wonder if it will retain its original brilliant white color; soap did not seem to clean it. I hope this long winded narration helps. Bob 1982 M15 #208 > Norm, > > The rudder on my boat measures 42", that's just the wood part, the part that > kicks up. It is 10" wide. I don't know what you are measuring at 33", but > it seems to me that the critical measurement is the amount of rudder that's > under the water. Again, my rudder measures 36" from it's bottom to the > lower pintle. I can send you a picture if a comparison is of use to you. > > Rick Langer > M15 #337 > > > > The new M15 rudder blade is 48" high according to Ida Sailor. My rudder > on M15 #172 is only 33" high and does not have the stock M rudder with tilt > up system. Does the stock M15 use a rudder of 48"? Or, is my Monty's > rudder too small at 34"? > > > > This is a huge difference. Does size equate to better performance? > > > > Norm > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: Regarding Ida Sailor Marine M15 new rudder
by bobjudy2＠comcast.net 17 Feb '05

17 Feb '05

Rick, I had tried increasing the tension on the shock cord helper, with no results. I just went out to my boat again and really, really increased the tension. It looked like that would help, and then the cord broke. Guess I will try a larger cord next time. Still, there seems like an awful lot of weight/stress on the tiller unit. Bob 1982 M15 #208 > Bob, > > Try increasing the tension on the shock cord helper. I found that too much > tension on the helper cord causes the rudder to kick up when barely lifting > the tiller. > > Rick Langer > M15 #337 > > > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 23:42:36 +0000 > > From: bobjudy2(a)comcast.net > > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Regarding Ida Sailor Marine M15 new rudder > > (Long) > > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > > Message-ID: > > > <021620052342.16156.4213DA6C0004779E00003F1C22007614380E0C9D9D0A050C0A0D@com > cast.net> > > > > > > I bought a new rudder from IdaSailor last fall for my M15. My wood rudder > was > > 42" but I thought I would try a longer one, since I could always cut it > off. > > The longest they offered was 48", so I went with that. > > > > I thought one factor that would limit rudder length would be if it hit the > > ground while on the trailer. The 42" rudder just cleared the ground when > I had > > my original TrailRite trailer; with my new Pacific trailer, I had more > > clearance, hence the longer blade was worth a try. I know that this > should not > > be an important consideration from the view of a naval architech, but if > I was > > making something for general sales, I would want to consider some of my > 'Damn > > Fool' clients who would blame me for their mistakes. (I always remove my > rudder > > when launching and recovery, but still occasionally qualify for the > DamnFool > > category) > > > > Long story short: I think the longer rudder sails better, but it is > > significantly heaver and the kick up feature does not work very well. I > haven't > > figured out if it needs a longer lift lever from the rudder to the tiller, > or a > > more extreme redesign (move the pivot hole?) I do not spend much time in > thin > > water, so I will probably live with the longer rudder and poor kick-up > performance. (It will kick-up but not lift-up all the way) > > > > It has also aquired a brownish tint from the crud in SF Bay. I have to > wonder if it will retain its original brilliant white color; soap did not > seem to clean it. > > > > I hope this long winded narration helps. > > > > Bob > > 1982 M15 #208 > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: Regarding Ida Sailor Marine M15 new rudder
by bobjudy2＠comcast.net 17 Feb '05

17 Feb '05

Rick Good point, but it did not help. Raising the tiller to its fully up position raised the rudder to about 45 degrees, where the pull rod was perpendicular. To get the rudder in the fully raised position, either the rudder would have to have enough bouyancy to carry it the rest of the way or I would have attach a lanyard to the rudder and pull it the rest of the way up. The attachments to the new rudder are identical to the wood rudder, so I am inclined to think it is a matter of weight and/or bouyancy. As I recall, my wood rudder would kick up and automatically go to the fully raised position, or I could fully raise it by lifting the tiller. None of this happens with the new rudder. I guess if I grounded, the rudder would kick up and I could hold it up with the tiller, but that's a lot to do while trying to figure out how to get out of trouble. The new rudder hangs 33 inches below the keel. It intuitively seems like the more rudder in the water, the more lift and control you get, but there has to be a limit where drag cancels out any advantage. I suppose there are books on the subject, but I don't want to get that deep into the subject. Perhaps there is someone on the list that has the answer. Bob Becker 1982 M15 #208 > Bob, > > Try increasing the tension on the shock cord helper. I found that too much > tension on the helper cord causes the rudder to kick up when barely lifting > the tiller. > > Rick Langer > M15 #337 > > > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 23:42:36 +0000 > > From: bobjudy2(a)comcast.net > > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Regarding Ida Sailor Marine M15 new rudder > > (Long) > > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > > Message-ID: > > > <021620052342.16156.4213DA6C0004779E00003F1C22007614380E0C9D9D0A050C0A0D@com > cast.net> > > > > > > I bought a new rudder from IdaSailor last fall for my M15. My wood rudder > was > > 42" but I thought I would try a longer one, since I could always cut it > off. > > The longest they offered was 48", so I went with that. > > > > I thought one factor that would limit rudder length would be if it hit the > > ground while on the trailer. The 42" rudder just cleared the ground when > I had > > my original TrailRite trailer; with my new Pacific trailer, I had more > > clearance, hence the longer blade was worth a try. I know that this > should not > > be an important consideration from the view of a naval architech, but if > I was > > making something for general sales, I would want to consider some of my > 'Damn > > Fool' clients who would blame me for their mistakes. (I always remove my > rudder > > when launching and recovery, but still occasionally qualify for the > DamnFool > > category) > > > > Long story short: I think the longer rudder sails better, but it is > > significantly heaver and the kick up feature does not work very well. I > haven't > > figured out if it needs a longer lift lever from the rudder to the tiller, > or a > > more extreme redesign (move the pivot hole?) I do not spend much time in > thin > > water, so I will probably live with the longer rudder and poor kick-up > performance. (It will kick-up but not lift-up all the way) > > > > It has also aquired a brownish tint from the crud in SF Bay. I have to > wonder if it will retain its original brilliant white color; soap did not > seem to clean it. > > > > I hope this long winded narration helps. > > > > Bob > > 1982 M15 #208 > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Regarding Ida Sailor Marine M15 new rudder
by Rick Langer 17 Feb '05

17 Feb '05

Bob, Try increasing the tension on the shock cord helper. I found that too much tension on the helper cord causes the rudder to kick up when barely lifting the tiller. Rick Langer M15 #337 > Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 23:42:36 +0000 > From: bobjudy2(a)comcast.net > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Regarding Ida Sailor Marine M15 new rudder > (Long) > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: > <021620052342.16156.4213DA6C0004779E00003F1C22007614380E0C9D9D0A050C0A0D@com cast.net> > > > I bought a new rudder from IdaSailor last fall for my M15. My wood rudder was > 42" but I thought I would try a longer one, since I could always cut it off. > The longest they offered was 48", so I went with that. > > I thought one factor that would limit rudder length would be if it hit the > ground while on the trailer. The 42" rudder just cleared the ground when I had > my original TrailRite trailer; with my new Pacific trailer, I had more > clearance, hence the longer blade was worth a try. I know that this should not > be an important consideration from the view of a naval architech, but if I was > making something for general sales, I would want to consider some of my 'Damn > Fool' clients who would blame me for their mistakes. (I always remove my rudder > when launching and recovery, but still occasionally qualify for the DamnFool > category) > > Long story short: I think the longer rudder sails better, but it is > significantly heaver and the kick up feature does not work very well. I haven't > figured out if it needs a longer lift lever from the rudder to the tiller, or a > more extreme redesign (move the pivot hole?) I do not spend much time in thin > water, so I will probably live with the longer rudder and poor kick-up performance. (It will kick-up but not lift-up all the way) > > It has also aquired a brownish tint from the crud in SF Bay. I have to wonder if it will retain its original brilliant white color; soap did not seem to clean it. > > I hope this long winded narration helps. > > Bob > 1982 M15 #208 > >

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M7-11
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 17 Feb '05

17 Feb '05

Hi All, What a treat. I just finished the album for a 1977 M7-11 Sailing Dinghy. She belongs to Fran Lebowitz. Fran did a great job of bringing this one back. Go To: http://www.funtigo.com/MSOG?b=222563&c=1789789&p=start Enjoy the Photos... Bill M-17 "Tipperary" San Francisco, CA (stopped raining for a while) Wasn't Will Rogers who said? "If you dont like the weather... just wait a few minutes."

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New Blade for Multimaster
by Wudnboatlovr＠aol.com 16 Feb '05

16 Feb '05

Hi Glen and All: Fein now has a metal cutting E blade for the Multimaster which has become my new best friend. Imbedded fastenings are no match for this new blade. It isn't inexpensive but well worth the price. Leif Eriksson M-17

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Regarding Ida Sailor Marine M15 new rudder
by Rick Langer 16 Feb '05

16 Feb '05

Norm, The rudder on my boat measures 42", that's just the wood part, the part that kicks up. It is 10" wide. I don't know what you are measuring at 33", but it seems to me that the critical measurement is the amount of rudder that's under the water. Again, my rudder measures 36" from it's bottom to the lower pintle. I can send you a picture if a comparison is of use to you. Rick Langer M15 #337 > The new M15 rudder blade is 48" high according to Ida Sailor. My rudder on M15 #172 is only 33" high and does not have the stock M rudder with tilt up system. Does the stock M15 use a rudder of 48"? Or, is my Monty's rudder too small at 34"? > > This is a huge difference. Does size equate to better performance? > > Norm

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Dismasting!
by Morris, Giles 16 Feb '05

16 Feb '05

When I saw >I was dismasted In another thread it reminded me of something that I wanted to share with the group. A few months ago I had an unfortunate incident with Dolphin, my Vancouver 25, that made my standing rigging suspect and really did a number on the chain plates -- two of them were lifted by at least an inch. I asked for suggestions here, and was reassured that my intent to replace them with external chainplates was a good idea. (I was also told that the Fein Multimaster was a good tool -- and now I don't know how I ever managed without that wonderful machine. I even recovered some of the tear-jerking price by e-baying my Porter Cable profile sander). I now have five of the six internal chainplates removed (thanks Mr. Fein) and the substance of this message is that I'm horrified at how little was holding my mast up!!! Water had leaked through where the plates pass through the deck. Indeed, it's difficult to see how it could avoid it. The plates were bolted to pieces of wood that were bonded to the hull. At least, they were until the wood turned to papier mache. The only piece of wood that was still recognizable had _never_ been held to the hull in any but the most cursory way. The uppers were bolted to a bulkhead that had likewise gone the way of the wet rot. Now, bear in mind that this is a boat that was designed, built and sold as being bluewater-capable. So what about the ones that are designed for light duty??? Aargh!! If I hadn't had my "unfortunate incident" how long would it have been before the mast went overboard? Anyway, once I have the last of the old ones out, I'll use the Fein as a sander instead of a saw, and smooth off the inside of the hull ready for the backing plates for six nice new external chainplates which will never suffer from this problem. What's my point in this group? Perhaps it's just something like "I wish I had an M-23". Giles Morris

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Re: M_Boats: Re: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 16 Feb '05

16 Feb '05

In a message dated 2/16/2005 11:24:07 AM Pacific Standard Time, jlgonzalez(a)san.rr.com writes: I may revert to using the clevis pin and cotter ring for the forestay/masthound connection, at least initially, 'cause I don't need a dismasting with my family onboard. Hi John, I was dismasted. Totally as a result of my "incompetence, ignorance or lack of counsel". Here's what happened... I had just bought Feather, my Potter 15 and had done lots of modifications to her to make her fit me. One of the things I did was to add a jib downhaul. It worked great in the front yard. I didn't know better and attached the bottom pully (block) to the forstay mount. I was in the SF Bay with the wind howling with a reef in the main, when the mast suddenly came down. My thought was, the block got tangled in the forestay connection and released it. Dont know how long it was like that, but I can tell you it was a bit scary for a couple of minutes. After regaining my composure and throwing overboard my pride, I made it back to the dock under power, reattached the mast, removed the downhaul and went back out to ride that horse that just bucked me off. The good news is dismasting with a small boat isn't to bad. Frightening if it occurs, but did no damage to the parts & pieces (only my pride). Bill M-17 "Tipperary" San Francisco (it's raining)

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Re: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler
by John L. Gonzalez 16 Feb '05

16 Feb '05

Thanks, Bill, Don, and Don, for your counsel. During mast raising and lowering, I will tie the drum to the bow pulpit (I'm thinking of using a small mesh bag with drawstring closure, to contain and support the drum and insulate the deck from it). I unfasten my sidestays regularly as I have to remove my mast (and mast carrier and motor) to allow Bella to clear my relatively low garage door and fit in my relatively short garage. I may revert to using the clevis pin and cotter ring for the forestay/masthound connection, at least initially, 'cause I don't need a dismasting with my family onboard. I'm concerned because there was some wrenching of the masthound fork during my roller furler raising/lowering adventures. Sincerely, John La Jolla, CA M-15, Bella (628) -- From: montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com Date: 2/16/05 6:05 am To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subj: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 24, Issue 10 Send montgomery_boats mailing list submissions to montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com You can reach the person managing the list at montgomery_boats-owner(a)mailman.xmission.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of montgomery_boats digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: New to list (Ken Abrahams) 2. Re: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler (BILLAMICASR(a)aol.com) 3. Re: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler (BILLAMICASR(a)aol.com) 4. Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler (Craig F. Honshell) 5. FW: RE: M_Boats: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler (Don Haas) 6. M17 kick-up rudder (Larry E Yake) 7. Re: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler (LUDLOWD2(a)aol.com) 8. Re: M17 kick-up rudder (bownez(a)juno.com) 9. Re: M17 kick-up rudder (Gilbert Landin) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 08:27:34 -0600 From: "Ken Abrahams" <kabrahams(a)structurex.net> Subject: Re: M_Boats: New to list To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Message-ID: <01cc01c5136a$7e86c5f0$693b9944@TOSHIBA> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Thanks everyone. Good information. With the beach method, is it safe to pull down on the mast or should one lift the keel, or both? How close is the fit in the cb opening? Ken Abrahams ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerry" <jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 10:18 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: New to list > It works fine to beach the 15 and careen it. I'd suggest removing the board > (easy), painting up in the slot as far as you can reach easily, and painting > the board's leading edge. > > Jerry > jerrymontgomery.org > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ken Abrahams" <kabrahams(a)structurex.net> > To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 6:14 AM > Subject: M_Boats: New to list > > > Ken Abrahams here from Lake Charles, La., Montgomery 15, Petite Fleur. > I also have a Starwind 19. Both are kept on trailers. > > I am considering putting one in a berth in brackish water. What problems > does one have with the cb and slot crudding up? Is there an easy way to put > bottom paint in the slot and on the board? > > Has someone beached a 15 and leaned it over to work on the board? Other > ways? The alternatitive most likely is having the work done in a yard with > a lift. Problems doing that? > > Ken Abrahams > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 12:09:14 EST From: BILLAMICASR(a)aol.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <fb.6ac79b78.2f4386ba(a)aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" In a message dated 2/14/2005 8:35:58 PM Pacific Standard Time, jlgonzalez(a)san.rr.com writes: What's the best way to raise and lower the mast with the roller furler? Hi John, I have absolutely no experience with mast stepping with the roller/furler. However, I did read something that may help: Add a small line to the base of the drum and then wrap the drum with a towel to protect gelcoat. Next tie on a clorox jug (on the added line at base of drum) filled with water or sand and let the jug go over the bow to add weight to keep the drum on the boat. I've never tried this but logic says it could work. I think if I had crew to assist, I would still add the line, wrap the drum with towel & bungie cord and have them stand at the bow to guide the unit as I lowered or raised the mast. There may be a better way... Bill M-17 Tipperary SF, CA ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 12:15:56 EST From: BILLAMICASR(a)aol.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <53.2157bb84.2f43884c(a)aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" In a message dated 2/14/2005 8:35:58 PM Pacific Standard Time, jlgonzalez(a)san.rr.com writes: I was planning on using quick release pins (thumb actuated with two ball locks, one opposite of the other), Me again... Regarding the quick release. The only con I've heard is they must be periodically washed and lubed as salt may crystalize on the inside and not allow the balls to come out. Not sure if quick release is needed at the chain plates. Easier to wrap them in rigging tape and tie the wires up to the mast with bungie cords. I believe most leave the rigging attached to make it easier at launch and recovery. Bill M17 Tipperary ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 20:05:53 -0500 From: "Craig F. Honshell" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> Subject: M_Boats: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Message-ID: <008801c513c3$b14a1560$0863b3cf@D89X0M51> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" John, I dry-sail, keep my boat on her trailer, mast-up, near a launch-ramp all season . . . I've always had help stepping the mast, so I'm not sure the best approach for a singlehander . . . There are several others on the list with CDI furlers who could probably offer advice, though. Fair winds, Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: John L. Gonzalez To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 11:29 PM Subject: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler I took folks' (Craig and Rik) counsel, and mounted fairleads on my M-15 for my CDI's furling line. What's the best way to raise and lower the mast with the roller furler? Tie the drum up loosely at the bow pulpit? When I lowered my mast yesterday, the drum went over the side and scraped along the ground, while the head of it twisted alot at the mast hound. Also, do you use a clevis pin and cotter ring to mate the top of the forestay to the mast hound, or do you use a quick release pin? I was planning on using quick release pins (thumb actuated with two ball locks, one opposite of the other), instead of clevis pins and cotter rings, to mate the sidestays and forestay to the chainplates. Any counsel to the contrary? Thanks! John G. M-15/Bella (628) La Jolla, CA ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 18:25:18 -0800 From: "Don Haas" <dshaas(a)sprintmail.com> Subject: FW: RE: M_Boats: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <410-22005231622518859(a)sprintmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII > Subject: RE: M_Boats: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler > > I use two different methods to raise/lower the mast with the furler attached on my M15. The best is to have someone hold on to the drum as the mast is raised or lowered. The method I use when alone is to attach a bungee cord between the drum and the bow cleat. This keeps tension on the whole assembly. It would be a good idea to wrap the drum in towel or something like that though. (my wife made a cover for the drum out of two layers heavy cloth with a piece of 1/4" closed cell foam as insulation inside). I attach the forestay to the mast hound with a "modified" push button quick release pin. I drilled two small holes at the outward end of the barrel and insert a small hitch pin for extra security. > > Don Haas > M15-248 Dream Catcher > > > > [Original Message] > > From: John L. Gonzalez <jlgonzalez(a)san.rr.com> > > To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > > Date: 2/14/2005 8:29:16 PM > > Subject: M_Boats: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler > > > > I took folks' (Craig and Rik) counsel, and mounted fairleads on my M-15 for > > my CDI's furling line. > > > > What's the best way to raise and lower the mast with the roller furler? Tie > > the drum up loosely at the bow pulpit? When I lowered my mast yesterday, > > the drum went over the side and scraped along the ground, while the head of > > it twisted alot at the mast hound. > > > > Also, do you use a clevis pin and cotter ring to mate the top of the > > forestay to the mast hound, or do you use a quick release pin? > > > > I was planning on using quick release pins (thumb actuated with two ball > > locks, one opposite of the other), instead of clevis pins and cotter rings, > > to mate the sidestays and forestay to the chainplates. Any counsel to the > > contrary? > > > > Thanks! > > John G. > > M-15/Bella (628) > > La Jolla, CA > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 21:26:26 -0800 From: Larry E Yake <leyake(a)juno.com> Subject: M_Boats: M17 kick-up rudder To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <20050215.212626.1796.44.leyake(a)juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Good news. A high performance kick-up rudder is now available for the M17. I had Ida Sailor Marine in Boise, Idaho build one for Tullamore and they've added it to their product line. You can view it at this link. http://www.idasailor.com/catalog/default.php It has a mahogany rudder head to maintain that classic look, with a balanced, foil shaped HDPE rudder blade. The one pictured has the pintles mounted to fit my boat, but they'll build to your specifications. Price seems very reasonable to me. They also make a replacement blade for the M15 that will bolt directly to your existing rudder head. It will be a couple months before I can try it out (still winter here), but I send a report as soon as I do. Larry ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 08:06:50 EST From: LUDLOWD2(a)aol.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Lowering of Mast with Roller Furler To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <d1.2296d0ad.2f449f6a(a)aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" John: I don't have a roller furler on Sweet Dream but I do use push pins on the forestay, jib clevis, and lower rudder pintle. I replaced all the cotter pins on the shrouds and elsewhere with SS rings and taped them in place for extra security. I have a piece of shoelace tied to the ring at the base of the pushpin. The lace wraps around the front of the pin with several half hitches and a bowknot to keep it in place and prevent it accidentaly pulling out. I sometimes use plastic cable ties to secure the pushpins and cut them away when I de-rig. Steve Eslemann (Scamp) had his forestay come loose on a trip to Catalina and only the jib downhaul saved him from losing the mast. It pays to be safe. I don't know why you are disconnecting the shrouds at the chainplates. I leave them connected all the time. The mast comes down and goes up with the shrouds connected. The only time I've ever taken them loose was when I had to stow the mast during Hurricane Ivan. Fair winds Don L M-15 # 620 ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 13:50:59 GMT From: "bownez(a)juno.com" <bownez(a)juno.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: M17 kick-up rudder To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <20050216.055154.14442.66776(a)webmail28.lax.untd.com> Content-Type: text/plain This looks like a nice accessory. The rudder looks shorter to me, I wonder if it is and how that will effect performance. Also, it does not use the 1/2" rod as the G + P. I wonder if the rudder will dislodge with simply those two small pintles. Are you going to pop for one Larry? Bones ___________________________________________________________________ Speed up your surfing with Juno SpeedBand. Now includes pop-up blocker! Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today! ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2005 08:04:37 -0600 From: "Gilbert Landin" <gilbert(a)mindgame.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: M17 kick-up rudder To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Message-ID: <01f601c51430$74331e20$0300a8c0@minime> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original larry, I looked at the picture on the site. Does the knob adjust kick-up tension? It looks like with the synth bottom 1/2 it would be less maintenance. looks good.. gilbert ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry E Yake" <leyake(a)juno.com> To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 11:26 PM Subject: M_Boats: M17 kick-up rudder > Good news. A high performance kick-up rudder is now available for the > M17. I had Ida Sailor Marine in Boise, Idaho build one for Tullamore and > they've added it to their product line. You can view it at this link. > http://www.idasailor.com/catalog/default.php > It has a mahogany rudder head to maintain that classic look, with a > balanced, foil shaped HDPE rudder blade. The one pictured has the pintles > mounted to fit my boat, but they'll build to your specifications. Price > seems very reasonable to me. They also make a replacement blade for the > M15 that will bolt directly to your existing rudder head. > > It will be a couple months before I can try it out (still winter here), > but I send a report as soon as I do. > > Larry > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ montgomery_boats mailing list montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats End of montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 24, Issue 10 ************************************************

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