October 2005 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: Trailering Terror
by Susan Balch 25 Oct '05

25 Oct '05

I can top that story - when I was a kid we lived in a house with a driveway about 30 feet long at what looked like a 45 degree angle along the side of the house. At the top of the driveway it was not uncommon to scrape the bottom of your car. One day my Dad pulled the boat out of the garage at the bottom of the drive, pulled up to the top and had the trailer hitch hit the top of the driveway and unhitch. The safety chains broke and a 17 foot boat went flying down the driveway and slammed into the side of the house. We couldn't decide which would have been worse, the boat going through the garage at the bottom of the hill or the damage it did to the house. -----Original Message----- From: IDCLLC(a)aol.com Sent: Oct 25, 2005 6:40 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Trailering Terror I'm curious: Do you all use grease or anti-seize on the wheel studs, or leave them dry? I typically lub mine, but I often wonder which condition would best encourage the lug nuts to stay put. Steve Tyree P-15 In a message dated 10/23/2005 12:08:14 PM Central Standard Time, barbaram(a)csufresno.edu writes: had the same problem last spring when I was getting my trailer ready to go. As I pulled in to address the problem the wheel fell off. I recommend that if anyone ever runs into this, try to pull off straight ahead and not making a turn! I, too, now check the lug nuts before I move the trailer. Luckily I was only on city streets going 30 mph when it happened. Slower than that when the wheel actually fell off. If I'd been smart I'd have purchased an extra set of lug nuts when I bought the replacement ones. Bobbie _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Photo Site
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 25 Oct '05

25 Oct '05

Hi All, No updates as of late on the Funtigo Photo Site. I've been up to my ears in learning and creating our own, useable by anyone, photo web site. I believe I'll be ready to publish the site around Christmas. It's coming along very nicely and is beginning to look real good. just finished resizing over 500 pictures from various size into two standards. One for the enlarged version and second to the thumbnail version. I've got all of the thumbnail shots posted into albums and have finished all of the copy (wording) to the albums. Next is to put together the pages of all of the enlargements, download the works to the server and we're published. We posted pictures and copy to the Funtigo site for just over a year. So, we're taking a years worth of material and changing horses (so to speak). If I dont work on the Funtigo site, please do excuse me as I'm a bit covered up with the re-do. I'm back in California. However, I found I liked my visit to Oregon. My house is listed and I'm moving in a month or so, possibly to Grants Pass, but more than likely to Eugene (U of O town - Go Ducks). It will be the rainy period for the NW, but that's what makes it so green, and brings the Steelhead & Chinook Salmon into the river systems (my other passion). It's been a while since I've posted anything here on our Email Forum and will likely be a while until I take the time to do so again. Hope everyone is doing very well and the upcomming holidays are good to you all... Bill (Photo Site)

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RE: M_Boats: Trailering Terror
by Tom Smith 25 Oct '05

25 Oct '05

I've always heard no lube on lug nuts. A dry lube of some kind is ok maybe, but using a wire brush to keep threads clean is the usual method. t /)) Tom Smith & Jane VanWinkle M15/345--Chukar M17/496--Unnamed

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Re: M_Boats: Trailering Terror
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 25 Oct '05

25 Oct '05

In a message dated 10/25/2005 6:48:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, IDCLLC(a)aol.com writes: Do you all use grease or anti-seize on the wheel studs, or leave them dry? I typically lub mine, but I often wonder which condition would best encourage the lug nuts to stay put. Hi Steve, I leave mine dry... However, I do have a specific proceedure I go through when I have to install or reinstall a wheel. It all started many years ago when a shop installed a wheel with a impact gun and warped a brake drum (on a car), giving me that pulsating feel in the brake pedal. First, I always try to use a torque wrench. There is a chart available to say how many foot pounds to use on a given size of bolt, however I usually go with about 75 ft pounds on most trailer or vehicle wheel lugs (use manufacturer specs). The proceedure I use is to run the nuts up hand tight, set the torque wrench at 50 Ft pounds and tighten in an opposing pattern. In other words, from top to bottom and then right to left, if that makes any sence. Then I reset the torque wrench to the final amount of 75 ft pounds and retorque in the same manner to that setting. I began doing wheels in that way "years ago" and have fortunately had no problems with losing wheels or warped drums/rotors. One last thing, a torque wrench at say Sears (Craftsman Tools) is under $50.00. To keep in in good condition, dont use it as a ratchet and when done, make sure to reset it to zero so as to keep the settings true in the future. I prefer the click type as opposed to the needle type, I believe they're easier to use. Bill (Photo Site)

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Re: M_Boats: Trailering Terror
by IDCLLC＠aol.com 25 Oct '05

25 Oct '05

I'm curious: Do you all use grease or anti-seize on the wheel studs, or leave them dry? I typically lub mine, but I often wonder which condition would best encourage the lug nuts to stay put. Steve Tyree P-15 In a message dated 10/23/2005 12:08:14 PM Central Standard Time, barbaram(a)csufresno.edu writes: had the same problem last spring when I was getting my trailer ready to go. As I pulled in to address the problem the wheel fell off. I recommend that if anyone ever runs into this, try to pull off straight ahead and not making a turn! I, too, now check the lug nuts before I move the trailer. Luckily I was only on city streets going 30 mph when it happened. Slower than that when the wheel actually fell off. If I'd been smart I'd have purchased an extra set of lug nuts when I bought the replacement ones. Bobbie

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Re: M_Boats: Towing the M15 - Hitch Ball Mount Height
by Sandyal55＠aol.com 25 Oct '05

25 Oct '05

If you have a receiver type hitch, get a receiver with a 2-3" greater drop height. This will drop the tongue of the trailer that much. If you have a fixed type hitch, there's an adapter to mount a receiver draw bar to the vehicle. Go to a hitch store, or if you have an Auto Safety House in your town, try them.

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Re: M_Boats: Dingy for sale
by Saltm17＠aol.com 24 Oct '05

24 Oct '05

Irv, She is located in Aiken, South Carolina. John

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Dingy for sale
by Saltm17＠aol.com 24 Oct '05

24 Oct '05

There is a Montgomery dingy ( 6' 8") for sale in this area. I haven't seen it, just the pics, but it appears to be in very good shape. Here is the notice: For Sale. 2004 Montgomery rowing dinghy with laminated spruce oars. $600.00 firm. Send request for pictures to _JJTSAIL(a)gforcecable.com_ (mailto:JJTSAIL@gforcecable.com) John

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Centerboard treatment
by Brian Gilbert 24 Oct '05

24 Oct '05

Hi Leif I've almost completed my centerboard rebuild. I believe that sandblasting, while expensive, is the only way to get all the rust. If you don't get it all, then it'll continue to rust UNDER your new paint/fairing job. Sandblasting mine cost $70, then I sprayed with a high-zinc "cold galvanizing" primer from Rustoleum, I think. Naturally, when I went to pick up the sandblasted and primed C-board it was raining, and it got wet in the back of the truck. The next day, you could see some faint orange spots in the primer. I gave these a quick brushing with Ospho, which is a trade name for phosphoric acid. After a day, the orange spots appeared whitish. Gave these a wipe with a rag that was SLIGHTLY dampened with acetone, then coated the whole board with straight epoxy. mixed another batch of epoxy with microballoons to fill the pits... some were very deep. That's as far as I've gotten. The surface of the board is reasonably smooth, but the leading edge still needs some thick filler and a good sanding overall. The primer seems compatible with the epoxy, it's the same stuff I used on my Mac centerboard. Hope this helps BG -- Brian Gilbert Marine Media M17 "Tiny Dancer" (ex "Stargazer") (423)876-9990 3404 Hartford Drive Chattanooga, TN 37415 www.sailingsmall.com on 10/22/05 8:57 PM, montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com at montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com wrote: > Hello to all: > > I've made good progress on bringing my M-17 back, and will be launching > before Christmas. I just got a look at the bottom 18" of the steel CB. It > looks > like it was never taken care of in any way. Severe rust. I plan to grind and > fill with epoxy filler, but I need suggestions on what to coat the steel with. > Coal Tar Epoxy? Red Lead? or whatever. > > All of your suggestions and advice is appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Leif Eriksson

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Trailering Terror
by bownez＠juno.com 23 Oct '05

23 Oct '05

Hello Listers, Sailing season has ended here in colorful Minnesota, I had my M23 pulled from the mighty Mississippi and the bottom power washed before moving her to her winter slumber area. My trailer had been sitting all summer, but I gave her a good looking over, aired all the tires and spare, and topped up the fluid in the brake master cylinder. I got the spars all secured and all gear unloaded or stored. Off I drove from the marina, headed south 25 miles to my storage site. About 7 miles south into the trip, I'm going through the small town of Nelson, and I hear this loud thumping noise. At first I thought it might be the new piece of road I was on, but stopped and got out to inspect my cargo. A quick walk around the trailer revealed nothing, tires looked good, boat still secured, hmmmm. Started driving again, went one block and the noise was getting louder. OK, this is not good. I pulled off the highway onto a residential side street, and as the trailer came around the corner, in my mirror I saw the left rear wheel flopping around at an angle, ready to fall off! Well, the wheel bolts had come loose, and 4 out of the 5 were gone. The wheel rim itself was not bent. What to do. I took my tongue jack and bolted on to the frame behind the problemsome rear wheel, I was able to lift the trailer high enough to align the wheel on to the drum. I took a walk down the highway in town and found 2 wheel bolts. One was too badly stripped to be of any use. I did have a socket set with me, so I stole one wheel bolt from each of the other 3 wheels to get the left rear remounted. I of course checked all the other wheel bolts, and they were tight. I lit off again, driving 45 mph till I got to the next river city, Alma, which had a NAPA store. I purchased some 1/2 " bolts, which replaced the ones I had removed to get me roadworthy. This story does have a happy ending in that I was going slow through a town then the bolts exited, If I had been going at highway speed, on the river bluffs road where there is little shoulder, I could have had a disaster on my hands, and a ruined M23. Moral of the story, CHECK YOUR LUG NUTS OR WHEEL BOLTS BEFORE TOWING! I will from now on. Bones

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