October 2005 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Tonina?
by Nebwest2＠aol.com 27 Oct '05

27 Oct '05

Did the M-23 "Tonina" finally sell. I saw a post that there was an offer of 10K for it and that it looked like it was accepted. Since there are so few of the 23's it would be great to find out who has it and where it is going.

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Trailering Terror
by B. Mayer 26 Oct '05

26 Oct '05

I had the same problem last spring when I was getting my trailer ready to go. As I pulled in to address the problem the wheel fell off. I recommend that if anyone ever runs into this, try to pull off straight ahead and not making a turn! I, too, now check the lug nuts before I move the trailer. Luckily I was only on city streets going 30 mph when it happened. Slower than that when the wheel actually fell off. If I'd been smart I'd have purchased an extra set of lug nuts when I bought the replacement ones. Bobbie

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Re: M_Boats: Photo Site
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 26 Oct '05

26 Oct '05

Hi John, I haven't looked as yet. But, you are most welcome to add a link to the Photo Site to assist anyone in the decision process. Bill

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Re: M_Boats: Trailering Terror
by chbenneck＠juno.com 26 Oct '05

26 Oct '05

Hi Steve, I put water pump grease on the studs of my M15 Trailrite trailer. The automobile people are against doing that because they say then mechanics with air guns can over torque the wheel nuts, which could lead to stud failure. My rational is, I want grease in the threads because I'm submerging the wheels in water on launching and retrieving, and I don't want water in the threads while the trailer isn't moved and used - or has the lug nuts removed - to keep rust from forming there. My new Shellback trailer had been immersed in water since new with no protection, and the lug nuts were totally unmovable. It took my welding shop's air tools plus welding torch heat to get them to loosen up. I had tried for days using KROIL and other penetrants and got absolutely nowhere. Now they too are covered with water pump grease. Checking the tightness of lug nuts should be done before each trip - and during a long trip - but when I want them to loosen, without calling in King Kong for assistance, I'll rely on a bit of grease on the threads. Another thing to consider is to use tallow, but that is hard to obtain, unless you make it yourself (rendered suet). I used to use tallow on all my stainless turnbuckle threads on the Tripp-Lentsch - standing rigging and life lines - and never had a galling problem; ... and they always worked. Connie

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Re: M_Boats: Trailering Terror
by bownez＠juno.com 26 Oct '05

26 Oct '05

HI Steve, Nope, all my wheel bolts were put in dry. I am normally more concerned about using anti-sieze when two dissimilar metals are meeting. For example, a steel spark plug into an aluminum cylinder head. In my teenage years in the gas station business, we never used lube on wheel threads. Bones

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Craig...
by htmills＠bright.net 26 Oct '05

26 Oct '05

A while back you asked about what storage boxes I was using.....answer in the spreadsheet where I could find some identifier. Tod

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Re: M_Boats: Photo Site
by Jslubliner＠aol.com 26 Oct '05

26 Oct '05

Bill, just got back from my 13 week summer RV trip and made big decision. Gonna sell the Coyote. Thanks for all the work in picture section. They look great and I was very glad to see the Flush-deck brochure you posted over the summer. If you know anyone interested, I put Coyote on the MSOG for sale page this evening. Price is reasonable and it's time to move along. Hope all is well. John in Tucson

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revised packing plan
by htmills＠bright.net 26 Oct '05

26 Oct '05

In case anyone is interested, I've revised my packing list. The approach is a little different than before, and the list itself is an Excel spreadsheet to make the data customizable as well as sortable. click on BuscaBrisas, then down at the bottom of the page, Packing Lists http://www.todspages.net/ Tod M17 #408 <= galley model BuscaBrisas

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Re: M_Boats: Trailering Terror
by IDCLLC＠aol.com 25 Oct '05

25 Oct '05

Connie, As usual, you are a wealth of very cool information. My rationale for lubing (or antiseizing) nuts is more prosaic: If it works for head bolts, main and big end bearings, it will probably work for lug nuts, gorilla mechanics with air wrenches not withstanding. Loose bits inside an engine gets catastrophic in a hurry. My education in mechanical fastenings is that you want to exploit the elasticity of the metal in order to gain holding power. Wheel studs are high grade steel, hence they can take a lot of torque which will resist vibration and loosening. I assume vibration is the ultimate culprit. Cheers Steve In a message dated 10/25/2005 12:08:34 PM Central Standard Time, chbenneck(a)juno.com writes: Hi Steve, I put water pump grease on the studs of my M15 Trailrite trailer. The automobile people are against doing that because they say then mechanics with air guns can over torque the wheel nuts, which could lead to stud failure. My rational is, I want grease in the threads because I'm submerging the wheels in water on launching and retrieving, and I don't want water in the threads while the trailer isn't moved and used - or has the lug nuts removed - to keep rust from forming there. My new Shellback trailer had been immersed in water since new with no protection, and the lug nuts were totally unmovable. It took my welding shop's air tools plus welding torch heat to get them to loosen up. I had tried for days using KROIL and other penetrants and got absolutely nowhere. Now they too are covered with water pump grease. Checking the tightness of lug nuts should be done before each trip - and during a long trip - but when I want them to loosen, without calling in King Kong for assistance, I'll rely on a bit of grease on the threads. Another thing to consider is to use tallow, but that is hard to obtain, unless you make it yourself (rendered suet). I used to use tallow on all my stainless turnbuckle threads on the Tripp-Lentsch - standing rigging and life lines - and never had a galling problem; ... and they always worked. Connie

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Re: M_Boats: Trailering Terror
by IDCLLC＠aol.com 25 Oct '05

25 Oct '05

Good advice, Bill. I've got a click torque wrench as well, which I find much more accurate to use. 75 ftlb of torque is a good number to file away. Thanks! Steve Tyree In a message dated 10/25/2005 11:10:03 AM Central Standard Time, BILLAMICASR(a)aol.com writes: Hi Steve, I leave mine dry... However, I do have a specific proceedure I go through when I have to install or reinstall a wheel. It all started many years ago when a shop installed a wheel with a impact gun and warped a brake drum (on a car), giving me that pulsating feel in the brake pedal. First, I always try to use a torque wrench. There is a chart available to say how many foot pounds to use on a given size of bolt, however I usually go with about 75 ft pounds on most trailer or vehicle wheel lugs (use manufacturer specs). The proceedure I use is to run the nuts up hand tight, set the torque wrench at 50 Ft pounds and tighten in an opposing pattern. In other words, from top to bottom and then right to left, if that makes any sence. Then I reset the torque wrench to the final amount of 75 ft pounds and retorque in the same manner to that setting. I began doing wheels in that way "years ago" and have fortunately had no problems with losing wheels or warped drums/rotors. One last thing, a torque wrench at say Sears (Craftsman Tools) is under $50.00. To keep in in good condition, dont use it as a ratchet and when done, make sure to reset it to zero so as to keep the settings true in the future. I prefer the click type as opposed to the needle type, I believe they're easier to use. Bill (Photo Site)

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