July 2004 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: pics-topping lift, Speed/RPM, etc
by bownez＠juno.com 28 Jul '04

28 Jul '04

HI Tod, Looked at your topping lift pics, couldn't you use an extended "D" style shackle instead of the flat tang for the block? It would have more surface area. I also noticed the spacers on the clevis pin. Did you add a small cleat at the base of the mast for boom height adjustment? Later, Bones ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the Internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!

2 1

Preventer
by David Thomason 28 Jul '04

28 Jul '04

Do they M15 & 17 come with a preventer, or has anyone rigged one themselves?

1 0

Re: M_Boats: New Genoa Jib
by LUDLOWD2＠aol.com 28 Jul '04

28 Jul '04

Wow. The new 150 RED Genny arrived yesterday from EP. Can't wait to get the mast up and see how she fits. The current jib uses a large D shackle to hold the tack and I guess that will be OK for the Genny. Anyone use anything different? Sweet Dream has a Bimini top attached to the combing about halfway along (at the center cleat) that lays forward over the hatch so the forward part of the combing top isnt very accessable for a turning block/ clam cleat for the sheet. I've thought about mounting a set of hexaratchet blocks on the rails close to the stern and taking a turn around the center cleat. I've never used a rachet block so I dont know if it would be a good idea for a jib sheet. I imagine the loads will pick up in any kind of a breese. Comments? Fair winds Don

1 0

RE: M_Boats: jib sheet connection
by Smith, Tom 27 Jul '04

27 Jul '04

I tried this method of sheet attachment a couple summers ago, and the loop slipping is exactly the phenomena I experienced. Regardless of what the text accompanying the website pics states, sewing is needed to secure this approach. Tom Smith and Jane Van Winkle M15--345 Chukar M17--064 Unnamed

1 0

RE: M_Boats: Motor Locks for 2HP Honda
by Hughston, Larry 27 Jul '04

27 Jul '04

Bill, Thanks for the information. One more thing to put on a launch checklist. -----Larry -----Original Message----- From: BILLAMICASR(a)aol.com [mailto:BILLAMICASR@aol.com] Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 4:35 PM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Motor Locks for 2HP Honda Hi Larry, I think I'd ask the service dept of a outboard shop. The bolt is stainless and the housing is aluminum (I believe). I'm not sure any locktite would be appropriate or acceptable. I put checking the bolts on a list of things to do before I use it. Never had any looseness. The person who lost the motor was on another forum. However, after reading his post I looked at mine and determined it sure looks possible to me... Bill (SF) _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

1 0

Re: M_Boats: Mast Ties
by chbenneck＠juno.com 27 Jul '04

27 Jul '04

Hi Brian, Bungee ties with balls: Except for very specific applications I avoid them like the plague. Why? .........If you have one stretched around the sail on the boom, and it slips out of your fingers, it flies back................ I used them once on my big boat, only to get hit in the face with the recoiling end, and almost lost my glasses overboard. At that moment, I said no more bungees: they're dangerous. Thereafter I only used tape sail stops; no hitting in the face if you drop an end! On my M15 I do use a bungee cord for securing the main, but it goes the length of the boom; is attached in three places, and to use it I just grab the bungee and pull it over the furled main and put it under a hook. If it gets away, at least it doesn't hit me in the eye.............! Connie

2 1

Re: M_Boats: Picking up M15 at boartyard
by David Thomason 27 Jul '04

27 Jul '04

Hey, thanks for the note. I hadn't thought about how much they could teach you about the boat. I also hadn't thought about sleeping in the boat, that'll save a few bucks, but the chance to hang out in her is the real draw. I'm going to have to wait until next year; so, I hope they still allow you to pick her up. I appreciate the good tips. It must have been a good trip. Take care, Dave

1 0

jib sheet connection
by htmills＠bright.net 26 Jul '04

26 Jul '04

After a year of using the method of jib sheet connecting that is described here under "Tod's Method" http://www.msog.org/how-to/sails/kelch_jibclew.cfm I've noticed a phenomenon: The loop has been very gradually slipping back into the whipping and this last time out I almost couldn't fit the knotted line through the loop. Clearly, just whipping isn't a positive enough attachment. Probably need to sew through the sheet too. Tod

1 0

Re: M_Boats: Motor Locks for 2HP Honda
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 26 Jul '04

26 Jul '04

Hi Larry, I think I'd ask the service dept of a outboard shop. The bolt is stainless and the housing is aluminum (I believe). I'm not sure any locktite would be appropriate or acceptable. I put checking the bolts on a list of things to do before I use it. Never had any looseness. The person who lost the motor was on another forum. However, after reading his post I looked at mine and determined it sure looks possible to me... Bill (SF)

1 0

pics-topping lift, Speed/RPM, etc
by htmills＠bright.net 26 Jul '04

26 Jul '04

A few pics: First is the sail cover. I need to add a little line to a grommet at the upper end to tied off around the mast. http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BuscaSailCover.jpg Rudder Cover. With my self-steering cleats on the tiller, it doesn't fit quite right, but it works: http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BuscaRudderCover.jpg Rudder raising gear. Busca's original rudder just had a hole in it that a rope passed through. It would squeak something fierce. Someone quite a while ago suggested using a tiny pulley, which is a great way to do it. I thought I'd be smart and mount it up close to the rudder rod but that was not a good idea; it needs to be back close to the rudder so the line stays away from the transom gudgeon (note the chafe in the pic). As shown in the pic, I've raised it up an extra half inch or so. Also I'm still using the original horn cleat instead of a cam cleat. Just haven't gotten around to changing over. http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BuscaRudderChafe.jpg A series of pics showing the topping lift attachment. As I think about it, I'm concerned about the metal tang that extends the pulley cutting into the backstay pin over time. I'll need to keep an eye on it. http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BuscaMasthead1.jpg ...I should replace those rings with cotter pins. http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BuscaMasthead2.jpg ...notice the shroud has a kink because it hits the mast. Not good. I had ground that corner in the crane/mast away some but it needs more. The problem stems from the shroud hole being drilled in too close. The other side isn't like that. http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BuscaMasthead3.jpg http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BuscaMasthead4.jpg ...I see that is a ronstan block. I wonder if that thin stainless tang will gradually cut my backstay pin? And finally, a graph of Boat Speed (from the gps) VS Engine RPM (Honda 5 hp w/ 200x170 (7 7/8 x 6 3/4) prop. http://www.bright.net/~htmills/SpeedRPM.jpg Data not the fairest in the world. Had a pretty good sail Sunday. Beat out of Sandusky Bay into a 15-20 kt breeze, 3'-5' waves (small craft advisory?!?). The self-steering had no problems holding the course. As I was sitting in the cabin making a peanut butter sandwich, I realized I was bracing against the compression post to stay on the high side. I thought "try THIS on a 15 with no compression post!" Running back, I hand-steered. Saw a tanbark sail and wondered if it might be Storm Petrel, but it was a bigger boat. Tod M17 #408 BuscaBrisas

1 0