June 2004 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: Launch and Retrieval Checklist
by LUDLOWD2＠aol.com 11 Jun '04

11 Jun '04

Hi guts, I've been out of town. Sorry Rick, I didn't answer Let me try to attach the checklist to this letter. TOWING Mount Motor. (Gas turned off), Add sails, Gas can, maps, Life jackets, registration, supplies (toilet paper). LAUNCH Make sure the area is clear of power lines. Undo the trailer tie downs. Undo the mast tie downs. Connect the side stays to the rear bolts. Lower the boarding ladder. Make sure that the forestay, jib halyard, and rope end of the main halyard are forward and topping lift is aft. Attach jib halyard to bow pulpit Slide the mast aft on the stern carrier until the base pins in the mast are opposite the holes on the mast tabernacle. The companionway hatch needs to be slid aft to allow clearance. Insert the mast base pin in the tabernacle slot Place the shrouds on the cabin roof inboard of the bimini eyes and hand rails so that they will not hang up. Straddle the cockpit seats, making sure they are clear of obstructions. If possible, have an accomplice up forward to pull on the forestay. Lift the mast off the rear carrier and erect the mast as you walk forward, straddling the cockpit seats. Snug the Jib halyard and cleat down to hold the mast up. Attach the forestay with the pin through the MIDDLE of the three small holes on the bow fixture. Tie down the fastpin. Pull the fastpin and remove the mast carrier. Insert the boom gooseneck into the slot on the mast and hang the aft end of the boom on the topping lift. Position the gooseneck and attach the downhaul Attach the mainsheet block to the traveler. Rig the Mainsheet. Insert the clew of the mainsail into the boom track and pull the clew to feed the foot of the sail into the track. Pass the clew outhaul line through the boom pulley and tighten and cleat the outhaul to the end of the boom. Attach the tack of the sail to the gooseneck. Insert the head of the sail into the track, making sure there are no twists in the luff, and attach the main halyard shackle. Pull the sail up a few feet. Tighten the downhaul into the jam cleat on the mast. Insert the battens. Rig the reefing lines. Tie the loose main to the boom. Tie the other end of the halyard to the starboard (that's the right) side rail. This is to insure that if you get in a blow the loose halyard won't be flying horizontally from the top of the mast. Get the Jib out of the cabin. Go forward and attach the headsail tack shackle to the bow. Hank the headsail onto the forestay with the downhaul inside the hanks. Attach the jib halyard shackle and downhaul to the head of the Jib. Tie the jib sheets to the clew of the sail. If the 100% jib is selected, pass the jib sheets through the fairleads. If the 155% genoa is selected, pass the jib sheets through the eyes aft of the fairleads. Bungie the jib to the foredeck. Tie the jib halyard to the port (that's the left) side rail. Put figure eight knots in the ends of the jib sheets. Sheets loose Make sure that the centerboard pennant is cleated to the cleat outside the cabin by the companionway hatch. This is so the CB doesn't drop when it clears the trailer. Swing the Bimini top forward. Cleat the mainsheet and tie a figure-eight knot in the end. Get out the boat hook and paddle. Anchor & line ready Install the rudder and tiller. Install the tamer bungee and center the tiller. Cotter pin in the rudder bottom pintle. Rudder up. Lift the motor to the upright and tilted position prior to launch. Rig the stern mooring lines and fenders. Get down. Raise the boarding ladder. Rig the bow line. If necessary, extent the trailer tongue. Back down the ramp and stop before the boat gets to the water. Unplug the trailer lights. Unhook the winch line from the bow eye. Launch the boat by floating it off the trailer. Tie it to the dock. Check that OB motor and Rudder won't hit the dock. Park the trailer. Board the boat and lower the motor. Start the motor by first advancing the throttle to about the ¾ mark and pumping the choke once and returning it to the pushed in position. If it won't start try advancing the throttle more. If it still won't start make sure the low speed adjustment is about ¾ turn open. Make sure the saddle tank vent is open. Pump the choke once for each attempt. Idle the motor to prevent it shifting into gear. Reverse is obtained by rotating the motor 180 degrees. Untie the lines, lower the rudder, and motor away from the dock. Once in deep water and clear, lower the centerboard gently by uncleating the pennant from the cam cleat until it starts to slip. If it free falls the impact will bend the retaining pin. Re-cleat the pennant with some tension. Stop and stow the dock lines and fenders. Raise the sails with the sheets loose. Release the topping lift. Stow the tie-downs Shut off the motor by pressing the red button on the handle. Raise the motor. The motor will lock in the up position when it is raised high enough. Trim the sails and set your course. RECOVERY Lower the motor. Turn on gas and air. Start the motor. Idle Tighten the topping lift. Lower the sails. Tie the main and jib down with bungie cords. Raise the centerboard and cleat the pennant. Install dock lines and fenders. Motor into dock. Tie-up. Stop motor and turn off gas and air. Raise motor. Swing the rudder to the up position. . Winch the boat back onto the trailer. Attach the safety chain to the bow eye and pull the boat out. Install the strap and drive away. Remove the rudder. Save cotter pin. Place the mast carrier on the gudgeons. Lower the boarding ladder and board the boat. Remove the sails and jib sheets. Hook the jib halyard to the bow pulpit and cleat. Disconnect the main sheet from the traveler and remove the boom. Stow in cabin. Make sure the cockpit seats are clear of any obstruction. Paddle, fenders, and lines to Cabin. Disconnect the forestay from the bow fixture and lower the mast onto the aft carrier. Tie the stays and halyards down to the mast. Slide the mast forward until it protrudes several feet in front of the bow carrier. Tie the mast down with the lines and the port stern line. Close the hatch. Lower the motor. Get down and raise the boarding ladder. Hook up the trailer lights. Hope this helps Don

1 0

Warning on Spill Proof Fuel Containers
by Doug Kelch 11 Jun '04

11 Jun '04

The following warning came from our local fire department via a Montgomery owner. Since I recommended these I thought I should pass the warning on. Doug Kelch "Seas the Day" > -----Original Message----- > From: MacKay, William D. > Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 11:46 AM > To: FIRE > Subject: Spill Proof Fuel Containers > > > > Recently the use of so-called Spill Proof fuel > containers has seen a > dramatic increase. In fact some county agencies have > begun to completely > do away with the old style containers in favor of > these. > > > > Home improvement stores, department stores, etc are > selling these in our > area and may be advertised as environmentally > friendly. These containers > are generally plastic and do not have any type of > visible vent > associated with them. They are designed to prevent > spills and > incorporate the "vent" into the fill neck or spout. > > > > > There have been at least 6 incidents in Fairfax > County where the > internal pressure developed inside the container has > caused fuel to be > spilled. In one of these cases fuel "shot" out of > the container when > opened and traveled in excess of 10 feet. > > > > This situation presents a great hazard to not only > the general public > but also to us in the response community. It would > not be unreasonable > to experience container failure in situations where > an external heat > source may cause the internal pressure to rise to > the point of failure. > In some certain extreme conditions (container in > direct sunlight), with > high ambient temperature, containers have developed > significant bulging > and possible approach the failure point. > > > > In the interest of safety I am sending this out in > this format. In the > future a more formal safety bulletin will be > developed. > > > > If any of you come across a container of this type > that shows signs of > significant internal pressure please approach with > caution. These > containers have been banned in a number of states > and jurisdictions. The > Fire Prevention Division is tracking these events > and wishes to be > notified of any events involving these containers. > FM12 (Captain Hile) > is responsible for this and is to be contacted. > > > > William MacKay > > Haz Mat Chief, Special Operations > > Fairfax County Fire and Rescue > > 703-246-4388(O) > > 703-246-5437(F) > > william.mackay(a)fairfaxcounty.gov > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > svfd-ops mailing list > svfd-ops(a)svfd.org > http://www.svfd.org/mailman/listinfo/svfd-ops > > AOL Bulk Email compliance information: > - Your email was obtained from the records of SVFC. > - Follow the link above to unsubscribe > - contact us via www.svfd.org > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger. http://messenger.yahoo.com/

1 0

Re: M_Boats: boom tent
by IDCLLC＠aol.com 10 Jun '04

10 Jun '04

It's not expensive (other than replacement every two years), but in some ways a simple, heavy duty polytarp may be best, draped over the mast and tied down with trucker's hitches. First, it's lightweight, making it much, much easier to pull on and off the boat. Second, its rectangular shape allows the ends to be open, which provides plenty of ventilation. I tie it down at the bow, stern, and amidships. I think my tarp is 12'x16'. The silver, heavy duty tarps last about twice as long as the light duty blue ones, here in Tennessee. Works for me! Steve Tyree P-15 #2098, "Amy Ann" In a message dated 6/9/2004 4:13:52 PM Central Standard Time, Larry.Hughston(a)dgs.ca.gov writes: Nice job, good idea. Tod, I am looking for the best storage cover for an M-15 I will soon have, I hope. This would be for storage outside in all weather as I can not keep it at home. Do you know of websites where I might start looking for such an item? Damn the cost.......Thanks, Larry in Sacramento.

2 1

RE: M_Boats: boom tent
by Hughston, Larry 10 Jun '04

10 Jun '04

Thanks Steve, I can do that. Now, describe exactly what a "trucker's hitch" is. Do you mean the rachet adjustable devices with nylon straps? They usually are about 13 feet in length. Thanks for the tip. ----Larry (10 more days for my M-15 if this deal goes through) -----Original Message----- From: IDCLLC(a)aol.com [mailto:IDCLLC@aol.com] Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2004 6:45 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: boom tent It's not expensive (other than replacement every two years), but in some ways a simple, heavy duty polytarp may be best, draped over the mast and tied down with trucker's hitches. First, it's lightweight, making it much, much easier to pull on and off the boat. Second, its rectangular shape allows the ends to be open, which provides plenty of ventilation. I tie it down at the bow, stern, and amidships. I think my tarp is 12'x16'. The silver, heavy duty tarps last about twice as long as the light duty blue ones, here in Tennessee. Works for me! Steve Tyree P-15 #2098, "Amy Ann" In a message dated 6/9/2004 4:13:52 PM Central Standard Time, Larry.Hughston(a)dgs.ca.gov writes: Nice job, good idea. Tod, I am looking for the best storage cover for an M-15 I will soon have, I hope. This would be for storage outside in all weather as I can not keep it at home. Do you know of websites where I might start looking for such an item? Damn the cost.......Thanks, Larry in Sacramento. _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

1 0

RE: M_Boats: Fun sail today
by Hughston, Larry 08 Jun '04

08 Jun '04

Thanks for info. This guy in SoCal has gone silent on me re selling his M-15. You will see my post if he sells to me. You will hear me wailing if he does not.... ---Larry -----Original Message----- From: William B. Riker [mailto:wriker@mindspring.com] Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 4:56 PM To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats' Subject: RE: M_Boats: Fun sail today Larry, Two more cents. Since the '81s (mine anyway) have two shallow sealed cockpit lockers, we don't have to worry about water encroaching through them. It isn't as convenient for storage, but safer. Bill Riker M15 - #184 Storm Petrel -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+wriker=mindspring.com(a)mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+wriker=mindspring.com@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Hughston, Larry Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 10:39 AM To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats' Subject: RE: M_Boats: Fun sail today Mr. G, what year is your M-15? What can I expect from an M-15 built in 1981....have you heard any negative comments on those hulls from that year? ----Larry <larry.hughston(a)dgs.ca.gov> -----Original Message----- From: G Burmeyer [mailto:burmeyer@sbcglobal.net] Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 10:48 PM To: Montgomery Boats Subject: M_Boats: Fun sail today Hi all, Just wanted to crow a bit after getting back from a single-handed, heavy wind day sail on Clear Lake (CA). It was a blast: this is why I got the M15! The only casualty was my Windex which, piece by piece, fell to the deck. The poor little plastic thingy just got blown away. No idea how much wind there was, but there were whitecaps and wind waves and I sailed with both the main and jib reefed, and me hiking out like I was on a dinghy. When I got tired I'd just heave-to and sit there, safe and comfortable while the wind howled. One of the nicest things about sailing by yourself is that there is no one around to bear witness to your bonehead blunders...like letting the hauling end of the main halyard blow to leeward like a long pennant when you're trying get the sail up. Oops. Or letting the jib get wrapped around the forestay because you weren't fast enough with the sheets on a downwind jibe. Oops again. Bottom line, though, is that in spite of my lubberly foolishness, the boat forgave me and showed me time after time that she is sturdy and remarkably seaworthy. _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

1 0

RE: M_Boats: Fun sail today
by Hughston, Larry 08 Jun '04

08 Jun '04

Thanks, yes, that is what I have been hearing from all the M-15 owners. Nice boat, hope I can wrangle one for myself sooner rather than later. ----L -----Original Message----- From: Steve & Diana Parsons [mailto:sparsons@canby.com] Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 9:26 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Fun sail today Larry, I have an '81 (#159) also. From all that I have observed from the discussions on the list, they are no different in performance from any other year. Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hughston, Larry" <Larry.Hughston(a)dgs.ca.gov> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 7:39 AM Subject: RE: M_Boats: Fun sail today > Mr. G, what year is your M-15? What can I expect from an M-15 built > in 1981....have you heard any negative comments on those hulls from > that year? > ----Larry <larry.hughston(a)dgs.ca.gov> > > -----Original Message----- > From: G Burmeyer [mailto:burmeyer@sbcglobal.net] > Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 10:48 PM > To: Montgomery Boats > Subject: M_Boats: Fun sail today > > > Hi all, > > Just wanted to crow a bit after getting back from a single-handed, > heavy wind day sail on Clear Lake (CA). It was a blast: this is why I > got the M15! > The only casualty was my Windex which, piece by piece, fell to the > deck. The > poor little plastic thingy just got blown away. > > No idea how much wind there was, but there were whitecaps and wind > waves and > I sailed with both the main and jib reefed, and me hiking out like I > was on > a dinghy. When I got tired I'd just heave-to and sit there, safe and > comfortable while the wind howled. > > One of the nicest things about sailing by yourself is that there is no > one around to bear witness to your bonehead blunders...like letting > the hauling > end of the main halyard blow to leeward like a long pennant when > you're trying get the sail up. Oops. Or letting the jib get wrapped > around the forestay because you weren't fast enough with the sheets on > a downwind jibe. > Oops again. > > Bottom line, though, is that in spite of my lubberly foolishness, the > boat forgave me and showed me time after time that she is sturdy and > remarkably seaworthy. > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

1 0

M15 Pacific Trailer Question
by Peter Deffenbacher 08 Jun '04

08 Jun '04

Hello all, My question comes from having my new M15 dropping down on the trailer so that the keel was on the trailer bed and at a sideways angle. This was after only two trips of 80 miles round trip (The trip from LA by deliver was about 800 miles). After I noticed this on the second time home the centerboard wouldn't raise or move, duh! There was also a seepage of oil around the centerboard pin area. The uprights for the boat rails/guides/running boards slid down and out! I checked the nuts on the vertical supports and they were all loose! I called Pacific Trailer and they said that the uprights should be placed (M15) 19.5 inches from the center of the trailer straight up from the inside of the upright supports and fully extender upwards from the trailer angled beam. Well this helped me in my garage to get the weight of the boat off the keel and I was then able to free the centerboard with my hands by pulling and wiggling to get it to drop and unbind. I checked a saved photo of my trailer before it left Montgomery Boats and the uprights were all the way up and they were all angled into the boat. I also checked the photo of the boats arrival and the uprights had dropped. So what is the angle to use or is it trial and error. Right now the boat rails are in the middle of a ridge of the lap strake. And tires ... Sandra was right, these tires that come with the trailers are C**P. I just balanced my 3 tires (1 spare) and the one on the left side was way out of round and was probably pounding this boat to death for 960 miles. The other two were able to be balanced. Thanks to everyone for listening to my ravings. You are welcome to send personal emails too. Peter Peanut M15 #618

1 0

RE: M_Boats: Fun sail today
by Hughston, Larry 08 Jun '04

08 Jun '04

Mr. G, what year is your M-15? What can I expect from an M-15 built in 1981....have you heard any negative comments on those hulls from that year? ----Larry <larry.hughston(a)dgs.ca.gov> -----Original Message----- From: G Burmeyer [mailto:burmeyer@sbcglobal.net] Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 10:48 PM To: Montgomery Boats Subject: M_Boats: Fun sail today Hi all, Just wanted to crow a bit after getting back from a single-handed, heavy wind day sail on Clear Lake (CA). It was a blast: this is why I got the M15! The only casualty was my Windex which, piece by piece, fell to the deck. The poor little plastic thingy just got blown away. No idea how much wind there was, but there were whitecaps and wind waves and I sailed with both the main and jib reefed, and me hiking out like I was on a dinghy. When I got tired I'd just heave-to and sit there, safe and comfortable while the wind howled. One of the nicest things about sailing by yourself is that there is no one around to bear witness to your bonehead blunders...like letting the hauling end of the main halyard blow to leeward like a long pennant when you're trying get the sail up. Oops. Or letting the jib get wrapped around the forestay because you weren't fast enough with the sheets on a downwind jibe. Oops again. Bottom line, though, is that in spite of my lubberly foolishness, the boat forgave me and showed me time after time that she is sturdy and remarkably seaworthy. _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

6 6

boom tent
by htmills＠bright.net 07 Jun '04

07 Jun '04

Well, I lucked out. The boom tent fits pretty good, considering that the canvas guy never got to see the boat and adjust/tweak the fit: It's pretty easy to rig, easy to get up on the foredeck, easy to get out the stern. Ends zip off for ventilation. Might get some rain into the companionway without the fwd panel zipped though. Aft panel for privacy when showering or warmth in cool climate. First impression: it'll work. Will post test results after trip (assuming I ever get away!) http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BT01.jpg http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BT02.jpg http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BT03.jpg http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BT04.jpg http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BT05.jpg http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BT06.jpg http://www.bright.net/~htmills/BT07.jpg http://www.bright.net/~htmills/PGlowShine.jpg Tod

2 1

Re: M_Boats: Bungee cord tiller tammer
by chbenneck＠juno.com 07 Jun '04

07 Jun '04

Hi doug To help you visualize the tiller setup start by thinking of a line going from the cockpit coaming to the tiller to the opposite cockpit coaming. You have to hold the line somehow. That is what the small jam cleats do. One on the Port side and one on the Starboard side. Now you need the ability to to make adjustments till you find the right position to hold the tiller. That is done with the bungee cord on one side which acts as a spring to hold tension on the adjustable line, the line with an adjustable length eye on the other side. You now can vary the length of the bungee cord and it's tension by stretching it a bit more or less and then holding the end in the jam cleat. You can do the same with the line with the adjustable loop on the other side, which allows you to position the tiller accurately to hold a course. Does this clarify the setup? Connie

2 1