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Monty 10 on Craigslist in Eugene, OR
by John Schinnerer 09 May '19

09 May '19

Just sayin'... https://eugene.craigslist.org/boa/d/eugene-10-montgomery-sailboat/684517431… Actually I have some friends who want to get into sailing, I may send this to them. cheers, John -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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Question re my rusty steel keel to lead project
by James Hymes 09 May '19

09 May '19

Bob Eeg advised I not build new outer walls on the keel, but rather to just re-fiberglass the holes, however the 7 cutout areas of the keel (access to remove the steel punchings) are huge, as in imagine a wide river with a couple of bridges – the wide river is the cutout sections, the banks and bridges are the remaining existing keel walls. And so my fiberglass man is sanding down to the original gelcoat, perhaps even original fiberglass, and then building up a new fiberglass wall on both sides of the keel. Work will be on the keel only, not the hull. The void will remain for me to pour lead shot into to replace the removed steel punchings. My fiberglass man is familiar with gelcoating over fiberglass, but I was thinking that after sanding the new fiberglass to a nice airfoil shape as the keel requires, to primer and then apply a glossy barrier coat would be less work, hence less expense. I know 2 coats of primer and up to 6 coats of barrier coat is required, but the keel is not so huge an area, that after he fiberglasses and sands it, I could probably do the painting myself….(may need less than 6 coats since boat is trailered and only in water for a day usually – two days tops). He quoted me $2000 to sand, reglass and gelcoat, with the required sanding of gelcoat. He assures me him gelcoating is easier than painting. As the boat is on the hard in his boatyard, and I prefer him to do the work, I’ve agreed to go with the gelcoat. The boat is only in the water a day or two at a time – otherwise it is on the trailer in my yard, and so in the event I decide to go with the gelcoat I intend to apply wax to the gelcoated keel prior to sailing, will help speed, protect gelcoat from water penetration. Anyone have opinions as to which they would do to the new keel walls: gelcoat only or barrier coat?? Jim Hymes

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Torquedo for M-15?
by Nicholas Sherman 09 May '19

09 May '19

Hi,Has anyone tried a torquedo for a M-15?-Is the 503 sufficient, or the 1003 a better way to go? Seems like the 503 should be OK in still water, can it move a M15 against wind/current?-I have a fixed position motor mount; is the long shaft the way to go?-It seems like the 915 watt hour battery should be able to move the boat a long way in theory; does that hold up in practice? I’m sailing M15#498 in Lake Washington and occasionally Puget Sound near Seattle. Thanks!Cheers,Nicholas Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad

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Emailing: Paul & Jerry Montgomery on Little Cultus Lake 1950
by jerry＠jerrymontgomery.org 09 May '19

09 May '19

Thought I’d share this photo that I just got my little hands on- it says 1940 so I was 9 or 10 years old and Paul would have been a year younger.. I’m the good-looking one. It was our first major voyage, and on a log raft. Paul and I still sail, hunt, and fish together, in fact we’re meeting on the N. Umpqua in OR in two weeks to hopefully eat some trout. We’d be doing the Whiskeytown Race but one of the N CA fires last Fall ate the marina. I’ve got another photo showing the raft (and us) upside down!

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list messages?
by Gerry Lempicki 05 May '19

05 May '19

Thanks to all who are answering my questions; I'm sure I'll have more before long. LOLI noticed that I am not getting all individual messages; when I check the digest I see there are more messages than I got individually. Hmm, they are not in my spam folder either.

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M17 Mast Rake
by Les Schuldt 03 May '19

03 May '19

I tracked down a calculator at: https://www.triangle-calculator.com/?what=rt&a=b%3D262+A%3D1&submit=Solve Input: b=255 A=1 This is the mast height 255 inches (21’ 3”) and rake angle of 1 degree The result is 4.451 inches. So if you float the boat on her lines and hoist a light line via main halyard with a weight tied to the bottom end (I use a crescent wrench), one degree of rake should leave the line about 4.5 inches from the after side of the mast near the base. If your mast is a different length, go to the website and plug in your numbers. Les

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M17 rake?
by Gerry Lempicki 03 May '19

03 May '19

Now that the bottom paint project is near an end, I am hoping to start fitting my new mast next week. What is the consensus regarding rake on the 17? I see on Jerry's site that the M15 likes a little rake aft. Same on the M17 or no? And if so, how much is a little? Does one actually flex the mast doing this? The reason I ask is that the new mast from Dwyer came with a new hinged step rather than a tabernackle, so there is no pivoting on a tabernackle bolt once it's mounted with this hinged step and pinned in place.

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Speaking of nifty setups for single-handing ease...
by John Schinnerer 30 Apr '19

30 Apr '19

...I got one of these last season and put it on my M17 and it is great. Beats the heck out of loose bungee cords, bungee balls, or sail ties. Not just for single handing, even if you have crew it is easier to secure the main quickly and tidily. https://www.duckworks.com/product-p/bb-sawsts.htm cheers, John -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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Topping lift fitting
by Lawrence Winiarski 29 Apr '19

29 Apr '19

I've been adjusting my topping lift with a tautline hitch. Any ideas of a little fitting or arrangement that might make it easier to adjust? (and not twist the boom) Mostly I just want to get the boom lifted higher occasionally when rowing or putting up a boom tarp. Curious what others might have figured out. I've seen big boats with a block on the line.

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Update to my project: Remove rusty steel, replace with lead shot, with questions
by James Hymes 29 Apr '19

29 Apr '19

I have a 1975 M17, #69. I attempted email Bob Eeg using the subcriber list, it came back no such address.... If someone can provide his or Jerrry's email address so I can email them directly with questions it would be helpful... I'm in the middle of a project of replacing the rusty steel punchings and replacing with lead shot. I will try to post my project (with dollar and time costs) in the How to and Specs section of the website with pictures so ya'll can decide if it's a project you want to do.. I've cut out 4 holes on the port side of the keel, 3 on the starboard side, and have removed the approximately 224 or more pounds of steel puchings. (that plus the 175 pound cast iron CB total only 400 pounds, I know Jerry has posted messages or whatnot saying those old boats should have 500 pounds or so total ballast. My boat sailed very well with decent wind, pointed great, and so I will use the same amount of lead in pounds as what I removed to keep the characteristics as it was, and not worry about getting the ballast to the 500 pounds....Now that all the rusty steel has been removed, the centerboard drops again!! My question concerns the other picture which shows the forward side of the keel, with the steel punchings encased in epoxy, located under the compression post. I did a previous project where I injected epoxy into the keel after drilling a lot of 1/4" holes in order to fill any air pockets with the epoxy with the hope of preventing water from getting into the punchings. (Did have water in the keel when bought) So I can't say for sure if that steel under the compression post was loose prior to my epoxy project or if Jerry put epoxy in that area specifically to create a solid foundation under the compression post so that the post would have support -- or,as a friend believes, the hull itself above the keel is enough support for the load the compression post is under when the boat is under sail, and does not need additional foundation underneath the hull in the keel. Hopefully this makes sense to you. Also, (change in plans) I intend to repair the outer wall of the hull by sanding the existing outer wall building up a new fiberglass wall outside of the existing wall, rather than sanding, fiberglassing each individual cutout. I will build a thin layer in the cutout sections first so that I can fiberglass over and keep the void in the keel needed for the lead shot to pour into. To me this will be easier. It will make the keel wider I know, but intend on keeping a good airfoil shape. Of course it will be done vertically (don't intend on setting the boat on it's side so that the keel is horizontal (unless someone recomends that would be much easier). After the outer wall is done, I have lead shot which I will pour from holes in the cabin above into the keel. Thanks for any input, Jim Hymes

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