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by E Blohm 15 Jul '22

15 Jul '22

Interested in obtaining a M17. Erik Sent from my iPhone

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Mast Raising and Lowering
by Willy Gorrissen 14 Jul '22

14 Jul '22

I need guidance in raising and lowering the mast on my M-15. Every time I put my mast up or down it becomes a horror show. I only do it twice a year but still it should be easier than I am making it. I do raise the transom crutch to its up position and have the shrouds connected for raising and lowering. Also my wife helps by pulling or easing off the main halyard as the mast is raised or lowered. My process is to raise the crutch, connect the shrouds, put the mast step in the deck house bracket. I then put myself half in the cockpit and half down below and lift as my wife pulls. Yet until the shrouds are tight there’s little control over where the mast might go. Lowering is sort of the opposite but the mast foot gets stuck in the bracket, the mast swings right and left and once it’s down it’s difficult to find a safe place to stand in cockpit and wrestle the mast forward. I feels as if I am going to fall out of the boat. My wife is close to saying she’s not helping any more as she only sees disaster in our future. So any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks for any advice, Willy Gorrissen Payette Lake McCall, ID M-15, 606 Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

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More photos
by Bob Eeg 14 Jul '22

14 Jul '22

Hopefully these post. [image0.jpeg] Trunk with spacer. Male mold we built. Sent from my iPad [image1.jpeg] See the Slot cut and the 1/4 inch cable sticking out..? That’s to raise and lower the board [image2.jpeg]Built a lexan box. Only the cable is used. Nothing but 3 part rope up top. [image3.jpeg] This is the board in the down position. It’s solid glass out of a mold I built. [image4.jpeg] Top view.

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Re: Montgomery 15 Fenders
by Mike Epp 14 Jul '22

14 Jul '22

Only need one each side at widest part of the boat. I have cleats right behind the port lights. See pic On July 13, 2022, at 9:49 PM, David Grah via montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> wrote: >I wonder if the group has any suggestions on this topic I always seem to struggle with. We don't spend much time at docks but, when we have to tie up to one, I am never really satisfied with how I attach at least one of the fenders I use between the boat and the dock. I typically feel like I should use two fenders. The front one I tie to the shroud. The aft one usually seems to want to be located just back of the front of the cockpit but I don't have anything good at that location to secure the fender to. I see in Daniel Rich's how-to-rig-a-Montgomery-15 video he only uses one fender tied to the handrail just back of the shroud and that seems to work okay. What works for you Montgomery 15 sailors when using fenders at a dock? How many fenders? How do you secure them? David GrahMontgomery 15 - Sky

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Mooring a vessel / Fenders
by Conbert Benneck 14 Jul '22

14 Jul '22

Good morning M-sailors May I give you a course in Mooring 101? To moor a vessel properly you have to meet four conditions: - The bow has to remain in a spot where you want it to be - The stern has to do the same - The boat has to be prevented from moving forward or backwards at the moor location. To accomplish this you need four mooring lines: - A bow line - A stern line - A forward spring line - An aft spring line The first line to go ashore should be the forward spring line. This line is is cleated at your anchor cleat and then is fastened to the dock. When it is cleated, it stops the boat from moving forward. The second line will be the aft spring line. It goes from a stern cleat on our boat to a cleat on the dock at the bow or further forward - where ever... Now your boat can't move forward or backwards. The next line are the bow and stern lines. As their name implies, the bow line goes from the bow of your boat to a cleat on the dock. The stern line does the same. With these four mooring lines in place, you boat can't move forward or aft; and the bow and stern of the vessel are fixed as well. Next problem: Prevent abrasion of your hull on concrete surfaces, or barnacle covered pilings. This is where fenders enter the game. If you are at a place, with no tide, and negligible waves, and you are mooring against a fairly smooth surface, one fender hung at the middle of the boat should suffice. If, however, you are docking in an area with high speed outboard boats towing water skiers, or big stink-potters who totally disregard the "NO WAKE" rule, you need more, and better protection from their waves. The answer to this problem is to use a "Fender Board". A fender board can be any old piece of a 2 X 4 , say 4 feet long. At the ends of the 2" surface drill a hole for a line. Thread a piece of 1/4" - or what have you - line through each hole and put a stopper knot on the bottom end. Voila, you now own a fender board. At this point you will need two fenders on the side of the hull. The fender board is hung on the outboard side of the fenders. Now your boat can bounce in the waves, but all the rubbing against the dock is done by the fender board. Over time it can get chewed up by - in my case - barnacles and tides. Building a new fender board, now that you know how to make one - probably takes you 15 minutes. It is as important as fenders are on a boat. Happy sailing Connie ex M15 #400 LEPPO ;

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Montgomery 15 Fenders
by David Grah 13 Jul '22

13 Jul '22

I wonder if the group has any suggestions on this topic I always seem to struggle with. We don't spend much time at docks but, when we have to tie up to one, I am never really satisfied with how I attach at least one of the fenders I use between the boat and the dock. I typically feel like I should use two fenders. The front one I tie to the shroud. The aft one usually seems to want to be located just back of the front of the cockpit but I don't have anything good at that location to secure the fender to. I see in Daniel Rich's how-to-rig-a-Montgomery-15 video he only uses one fender tied to the handrail just back of the shroud and that seems to work okay. What works for you Montgomery 15 sailors when using fenders at a dock? How many fenders? How do you secure them? David GrahMontgomery 15 - Sky

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Re: Anyone on the west coast have an M23?
by bownez＠juno.com 08 Jul '22

08 Jul '22

Well said Gerry!! Mr. Bones

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Re: Anyone on the west coast have an M23?
by bownez＠juno.com 05 Jul '22

05 Jul '22

Owned my M23 for 16 years, I loved that boat. To the best of my history knowledge, 19 were made. They are a true gem if you can find one. Now owned by Gerry Wyatt Mr. Bones M23 Dhana (ex) Mpls, Mn

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Re: Transom M17
by E Blohm 05 Jul '22

05 Jul '22

Gary, I ordered the thin Epoxy (3Qts from Raka), medium hardener, wood filler and 20-4” FG tapes. I am thinking a 4.5” angle grinder or a drill attachment disk would be used to remove the hull/deck sealant? I just want to make sure I understand your fix method before I start this later in week. 1. Open hull/deck up at transom. I guess pulling a inch or two apart wouldn’t crack the outer surfaces. 2. Remove sealant with sander-disk and wipe down with solvent. 3. Sand back (bevel) 2” from top of transom towards keel. 4. Fill the sanded back bevel area with thickened Epoxy and mate deck before Epoxy cures. 5. Rough up/fair top of transom-deck and new filled Epoxy and lay a couple layers of FG tape on. 6. Sand and fair. 7. Paint Is that correct? Erik Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 24, 2022, at 14:02, E Blohm <eblohm(a)rocketmail.com> wrote: >

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Hull deck joint rehab.
by E Blohm 28 Jun '22

28 Jun '22

Lots of progress on my M17 #248 the last couple of days. In addition to bow to stern cleaning outside/inside I took off mast/standing rigging and inspected and all looks good. I had some inspiration last night to use a heavy polish compound to the heavily oxidized hull to see how well it would work and 4 hours later the hull looks incredible. I’ll leave it as is for now with a polish/wax next spring. The boat is going to a local sandblaster expert tonight for a bottom 3-4 layer paint removal. I’ll seal up a couple through hulls then put a bottom barrier on over winter. I would like to reseal the deck joint since it probably is due for it. Any recommendations as far as that project is concerned? Thanks Erik Sent from my iPhone

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