- montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Centerboard
by Honshells 26 Feb '02

26 Feb '02

I'm sure this question has been addressed exhaustively in the mailing list archives, but I've never had much success accessing them. Is it possible to galvanize the older M17's centerboard? If so, has anyone out there done so? Would galvanization be preferable to epoxy painting? I imagine epoxy painting and filling would be cheaper and would make faering easier. Would galvanization be prohibitively expensive? Would galvanization give complete corrosion resistance? Thanks!

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Re: M_Boats: Centerboard
by Larry Yake 25 Feb '02

25 Feb '02

There has been discussion on the Potter list of using a fiberglass incased plywood board to replace the centerboard. They originally have a 250 to 280# centerboard and no weighted keel like the Montys, getting their stability from their flatter bottom, and have been said to sail fine with the plywood board. I wonder how that would work on a Monty and if the loss of weight would be significant. Also, of course, the issue of keeping it down and not allowing it to "float" up would have to be addressed. Larry Y. M17, #200 Tullamore

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Re: M_Boats: Centerboard
by Steve R 25 Feb '02

25 Feb '02

I sail Cave Run Lake near Morehead, and hope to go over to KY Lake sometime this year. Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY --- "Honshells" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> wrote: > >That's an interesting proposition, Steve. I am a Michigander, but have >family in Lexington and Eastern Kentucky and might be able to drop off my >c-board on one of my many trips to the "hollers" (Wayland and Hindman, >Kentucky) to visit relatives. Where do you sail in the Lexington, KY >rea? --Craig > >p.s. I'm no metallurgist: Does anyone out there know whether the older M's >centerboard iron or steel? Can either metal be galvanized, or just steel? >

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GPS - Mapping
by Steve & Diana Parsons 25 Feb '02

25 Feb '02

Does anyone on the list have experience with GPS mapping software. I bought a Lowrance GPS/Sonar unit, and am curious if anyone knows the tricks that would be most beneficial for creating maps/routes/waypoints/etc.. Answer offline if this is too off topic. Regards, Steve

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Re: M_Boats: Self Steer
by Steve R 25 Feb '02

25 Feb '02

Tod, What about some sort of hinge? A U-bracket from the top part, with holes in each side of the U. A hole through the oar. A rod that goes through the bracket and oar. allowing the oar to piviot up and back. A second, smaller set of holes with some sort of breakable pin to lock the oar in place. Think it would work? Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY --- "htmills(a)bright.net" <htmills(a)bright.net> wrote: > Now if I only had a slick way to connect it to the end > of the tubing so it could non-destructively "breakaway" > if I snag something.... > >Tod

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M17 for sale in Oregon
by mikit 24 Feb '02

24 Feb '02

1983 Montgomery 17 For Sale We have owned Montgomery 17 (hull number 369) for three years and have been extremely happy with her. The boat does everything well from sailing and trailering to launching and recovering. Under sail the boat has a reassuring feel to her, inspiring confidence. It tows well, and is easily launched and retrieved by one person. The construction is sturdier than most, quite well built overall. We did a lot of research prior to selecting a Montgomery 17 and we feel we made the right choice. We have sailed on many lakes in the Pacific Northwest as well as Lake Tahoe. We figured this would be the last boat we would ever purchase however a Cape Dory 25d cast her spell on us. We have a "one boat at a time rule" so regretfully are offering our M17 for sale. The boat has been thoroughly restored and looks as if it just popped out of the mold. The Trailrite trailer was factory refurbished and painted and we installed new radial trailer tires. The Headsail is a 2-year-old, North 150% genoa on a CDI furler unit, both are in new condition. A new North Sail main with foot shelf and double reef points only use 3 times. Also included are the original main and jib in good condition. New 4 hp, 4 stroke Yamaha engine. Full electronics and lighting to include: New auto bilge pump, VHF radio, Navico auto pilot, new Standard Horizon Depth, Speed and Temperature instruments and tri-color masthead light. The hull is perfect, without damage, and has slotted aluminum toe rails which are much stronger and versatile (also more expensive) than the teak toe rails in my opinion. All woodwork has been refinished and is in outstanding condition. The boat has lifeline and stanchions, new sail covers and a full boat cover that fits over the entire boat and mast when the mast is in the traveling position. There is a tongue extension, about 10' long I think, that I have never used because the boat floats off easily just as the tow vehicle tires touch the water. The interior cushions are original and are in perfect condition without stains or wear. Galley model, with water storage, sink and built-ins, Custom teak yoke assembly fits in to transom gudgeons for mast support during transport. The cabin has a custom V- berth extension, porta-potty and quarter berth. There is a transom ladder, companionway screen, cockpit mat, ground tackle, flares, fenders and much, much, more. Virtually a like new boat at a fraction of the cost of a factory new boat with similar motor, trailer, sails and equipment. If interested please check out this web site with pictures of the boat. http://www.PictureTrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=637615&uid=137947 If in the market for one of the best trailerable sailboats ever made, in pristine condition, outfitted with only the best components, needing no additional equipment or restoration work, this boat is worth looking at. Located in SW Oregon--Price:$8000 firm.

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Custom Casting M17 Bronze Chainplates
by Honshells 24 Feb '02

24 Feb '02

Regarding custom casting, Roger Winiarski at Bristol Bronze (Tiverton, R.I.) has custom-cast, heat-treated, high-strength, high-quality replacement castings for the M17 chainplates. Roger created the bronze plates from a prototype that I crafted: I wanted a thicker cross-section to the triangular piece to which the shroud turnbuckles attach. I "beefed" up the original plate from my '85 M17 by riveting two triangular pieces of aluminum (easy to cut and shape) to either side of the existing triangular piece. Roger's casting is almost identical to my prototype, although imperceptibly smaller because of extremely slight shrinkage of the cooling bronze. Roger has a proprietary high-tensile bronze that, once heat-treated, is indestructible: Give him a call, becauase he loves to tell people about it and you'll learn a little about marine alloys. I believe my new bronze plates are stronger than the original, even though bronze is not quite as strong as stainless, because my plates are one-piece castings (the stainless are two piece welded hardware) and the triangular piece has a thicker cross-section. And, as I say, Roger touts the strength of his heat-treated alloy. Anyway, the new plates have one problem: Roger "cast in" the 1/4" mounting holes and, because of the imperceptible shrinkage, the plates can't be mounted with the original drillings in the M17 cabin-trunk. This wasn't an issue for me, because, given that my boat is an '85, it was about time to epoxy and redrill the existing holes anyway. If anyone is interested in Roger's parts, he has two plates ready to sell which, I imagine, could be obtained quite reasonably. Should Roger receive more than one request, future orders would have to be in bulk, or would have to be grouped with other projects, to defray heat-treating cost (Again, Roger will explain). The Bristol Bronze chainplates would be the perfect accompanyment to any M17 with bronze ports (as they are to my retrofit bronze windows). I mounted my new castings with sheet-stock backing plates and 1/4" bronze machine screws: I'm thrilled with the result. I'll eventually take a good photo of the installed plates (and my window retrofit) for the MSOG site. http://www.bristolbronze.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Honshells" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 10:15 PM Subject: M_Boats: Centerboard Doug, Is Navy Brass bronze? If a new CB were to be cut from stock using a CAD file, would the lead and trailing edges have to be shaped, or it the existing board just a flat section of metal? What about having the board cast in a different metal? Would that be prohibitively expensive? Thanks, Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug King" <msog(a)msog.org> To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 9:38 PM Subject: M_Boats: Centerboard Two suggestions: 1) Go to "Other Resources" -> "Search List Archives" on the MSOG site. Two searches will cover the topic, type the word "galvanize" in the first search term box, and "centerboard" in the second search term box. You'll get several hits. Then, go Back and use "CB" instead of "centerboard" for a second set of messages. There's quite a bit of discussion on this subject, but not sure any consensus was reached. Message six under the second search (galvanized and CB) by Howard Audsley discussed the possibility of getting a CAD file (probably a .dxf) made that could be used to get steel, or Navy Brass or SS if you're rich, boards cut more cheaply. If there's enough interest, maybe it's worth a bunch of people getting together to pay for a CAD file to be used by anyone who needs it. I'd go in on it, and it could be downloaded from the MSOG site. 2) The Potter people talk about having decent results galvanizing their CB, which are steel (Montgomerys are originally cast iron on the older boats, FG later on): "One of the things that has become popular (and standard equipment) on the Potters is a galvanized centerboard. When I had my P-15 I was planning to have the centerboard galvanize dipped when the paint gave out. My board was a slab of steel... Don't know if it can be done with cast iron. Anyway, for what it's worth, the Potter Yachters seem to have good luck with the galvanized boards." Maybe someone who subscribes could write to their listserver and see what works best re: painting galvanized, etc. Unless Bob Eeg, Jerry M., or Judy Blumhorst want to just tell us... ;) Doug At 06:45 PM 2/24/02 -0500, you wrote: > >I'm sure this question has been addressed exhaustively in the mailing list >archives, but I've never had much success accessing them. > >Is it possible to galvanize the older M17's centerboard? If so, has anyone >out there done so? > >Would galvanization be preferable to epoxy painting? I imagine epoxy >painting and filling would be cheaper and would make faering easier. > >Would galvanization be prohibitively expensive? > >Would galvanization give complete corrosion resistance? > >Thanks! > > > > >_______________________________________________ >http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats ------------------------------------------ Doug King M-17 #404 "Vixen" Montgomery Sailboats Owners Group Web site: http://msog.org Email: mailto:msog@msog.org

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Re: M_Boats: Centerboard
by Steve R 24 Feb '02

24 Feb '02

The local galvanizing operation has a $150 minimum charge. I want to make up a new winch post and have it galvanized, but not for $150. Anybody near by want to get up a group order? Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY --- "Honshells" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> wrote: > >Is it possible to galvanize the older M17's centerboard? >

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Re: M_Boats: M17 for sale in Oregon
by Harvey Wilson 23 Feb '02

23 Feb '02

Hi Tod.. There was a beautiful 1982/3 CD25D on a trailer for sale in Port Clinton, about 4 years ago. Price was right $16,500. Couldn't find the owner from the phone number on the for sale sign, and when I finally got an answer, months later, he decided to keep it. I'd have a small "fleet" if I could have found him. CD 25D's that nice and with trailer usually go for 8-10K more then that. Probably a distress sale at the time. Harvey/Ga M-17 Stargazer #294

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Used Outboard in Minnesota
by Michael L Bowden 23 Feb '02

23 Feb '02

Hello listers, For sale: mid-60's Johnson 6hp longshaft outboard motor. Twin cylinder, 58 lbs, with fuel tank and service manual. I used this motor on my M17 for 4 seasons, I will no longer need it due to purchase of a Yamaha 4hp 4 stroke last year. The motor runs well, not overly pretty. Price $300/BO. Contact me off list please. Think spring! Michael "Bones" Bowden bownez(a)sprynet.com ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.

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