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Re: M_Boats: Stern light mounting location?
by Dan Farrell 22 Apr '17

22 Apr '17

Thanks Tom, As-is looks great with that light, but I have a dome type from perko and was hoping to use that. You have given me some ideas though with regards to mounting - is that HDPE? Might be easier to make a wedge out of that then wood. Dan Farrell M17 #301 Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> wrote: >Hi Dan, >They make a flush mount sternlight that will attach to the transom. But I >was concerned that with it set onto the transom it would not be visible >through the 180 degree quadrant due to the rudder, ladder and ob >obstructing the light for other boats to see. So I mounted mine on top of >the port quarter coaming. I have a picture of the setup in the MSOG >photosite under boat name "AS-IS". That gets it up high enough to be much >more visible. To do the wiring I added 6" access ports to the cockpit >coaming both port and starboard. These two are pictured in my photo layout >at the MSOG photosite. >I also changed out all my lights from the incandescent types to the LED >type which use much less electricity. >Fair winds, >Tom B. >ps, after doing all that, I think, all things considered I would have gone >with the transom light and risked being run down by some cigarette boat >piloted by a guy three sheets to the wind.

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Re: M_Boats: Stern light mounting location?
by Dan Farrell 22 Apr '17

22 Apr '17

The downward angle seems like a valid concern. That hardly seems coast guard approved ( though they primarily concern them selves with flare expiration and PFDs from what I've experienced). More importantly, hard to expect someone to see it from 2 nautical miles away, and that might be unsafe. I was thinking the same thing, but I'm having trouble thinking of how to form the wedge. A block of wood and some sandpaper is one option, but it seems like hard work to get the angle and curve right. I was thinking of trying to cut a mold from a yogurt cup and making an epoxy plug, thinking the cup would be easy to form. That seems like a lot of work too. Don't have any yogurt cups anyway; maybe I should just start sanding :). Did you think of any clever solutions? Dan Farrell M17 #301 John Schinnerer <john(a)eco-living.net> wrote: >My 74 M17 came with a Perko dome type stern light mounted on the >down-sloping part of the port side coaming near the stern. > >You can see a similar mounting in some of the pics of "transom rebuild" >for "Monita" on the MSOGPhoto site. > >Side visibility of the light is probably fine. >Visibility of the light would be reduced more directly astern because of >the downward slope of the mounting surface. > >I will soon be re-mounting mine on a wedge that will level it up (or >nearly so). It looks like that was done on "Monita" also, from one of >the pics further along in the transom rebuild...? > >I thought about switching to a transom mounted one, but given my >starting point just leveling it up with a wedge mount seems like most >return for least effort. The wiring's already there, the holes are >already there, and no issues with rudder and/or motor mount reducing >visible angles. > >cheers, >John S. > > > >On 04/22/2017 07:38 AM, Dan Farrell wrote: >> Hi folks, >> >> My m17 came with no Stern light, and I'd like to add one. I can't figure out where the best location would be - the aft end of the coming seems like it would be a great spot if it was flat. A vertical mount on the transom would be another option. >> >> I'm curious if any list readers have done this and where they put the light, and if they regret their decisions :). >> >> I'm >> >> Dan Farrell >> M17 #301 >> > >-- >John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design >-------------------------------------------- >- Eco-Living - >Whole Systems Design Services >People - Place - Learning - Integration >john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 >http://eco-living.net >http://sociocracyconsulting.com >

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Stern light mounting location?
by Dan Farrell 22 Apr '17

22 Apr '17

Hi folks, My m17 came with no Stern light, and I'd like to add one. I can't figure out where the best location would be - the aft end of the coming seems like it would be a great spot if it was flat. A vertical mount on the transom would be another option. I'm curious if any list readers have done this and where they put the light, and if they regret their decisions :). I'm Dan Farrell M17 #301

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Stern light mounting location?
by Thomas Buzzi 22 Apr '17

22 Apr '17

Hi Dan, They make a flush mount sternlight that will attach to the transom. But I was concerned that with it set onto the transom it would not be visible through the 180 degree quadrant due to the rudder, ladder and ob obstructing the light for other boats to see. So I mounted mine on top of the port quarter coaming. I have a picture of the setup in the MSOG photosite under boat name "AS-IS". That gets it up high enough to be much more visible. To do the wiring I added 6" access ports to the cockpit coaming both port and starboard. These two are pictured in my photo layout at the MSOG photosite. I also changed out all my lights from the incandescent types to the LED type which use much less electricity. Fair winds, Tom B. ps, after doing all that, I think, all things considered I would have gone with the transom light and risked being run down by some cigarette boat piloted by a guy three sheets to the wind.

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Trailer Jacks
by James Poulakis 21 Apr '17

21 Apr '17

So I’m coming to realize that trailer jacks live short, miserable lives. Fulton’s lower end models have the lifespan of a fruit fly but my Fulton F2 has made it about eight years. I’m thinking about another F2 but was wondering if there is a better optopm out there. Any suggestions? - Jim M-17 “Spirt"

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Re: M_Boats: Why not hex head bolts?
by Dan Farrell 20 Apr '17

20 Apr '17

Thanks for this insight, Jerry. It's always nice to have the historical details. I'll go forward with the hex heads and see how much knuckle I skin. The gorilla tape is a great suggestion ( it just so happens I keep some in the boat anyway!). Had to chuckle at the windage point. I suppose attention to details like that is why you win races. With my new sails I'm hoping to outrun the Rhodes 19 ( it's already close and I don't have a Genoa yet) so if I get slower instead, I'll know what to blame :-P Dan Farrell M17 #301 jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org wrote: >We used round heads whenever practical for several reasons, the biggest >being that you are less likely to snag yourself on them when struggling to >get somewhere else on the boat in heavy seas. Most would agree that they >look a little better, and they are cleaner, with less weight and windage. >Some of these are admittedly picky things. Another reason that matters to >some of us is that when racing in a drifter, we use 3/16 or 1/4 sheets, and >these can snag on HH bolts. > >None of these are big deals, and don't be afraid of HH's. Use Gorilla tape >to hold the wrench in place! > >-----Original Message----- >From: Bob Eeg >Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 6:33 AM >To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats >Subject: Re: M_Boats: Why not hex head bolts? > >Dan >Hex head stainless bolts, stainless washers and stainless aircraft lock nuts >are all we use. Go ahead and upgrade. > >I am guessing round head slotted bolts are not standard and someone the last >35 years >probably swapped out hardware and rebedded your chain plates. > >Be well >Bob >Montgomery Boats. >949-489-8227 > >

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Re: M_Boats: Why not hex head bolts?
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 20 Apr '17

20 Apr '17

Tyler, I agree with your position on the attention to detail, but believe that your C-22 was probably modified over the years by someone other than Catalina Yachts - - my family's business sold their products from 1967 to approx. 1998 and they delivered boats from the factory that were generally well fitted - not perfect (as in steel ballast in both models - M-Boats and C-22) but well done, as evidenced by the number of Catalina 22's built. A - bit of useless info - I was about 17 years old and working at the family boat dealership - commissioning a M-17 - I was interested in a condition I noticed, and asked my father "Why are ALL the screw heads aligned (slotted AND phillips) - My Fathers answer was - attention to detail -and from a practical point- you can easily monitor if they are getting 'loose' - plus "it looks cool". To this day I align fastener heads- on my boats and recently the 'tow truck'. All because of our buddy "HayFace" ! ! I like button head allen screws.... smooth and taking it one step crazier - the tools are even lighter and easier to carry! Have Fun, Go Sailing! GO In a message dated 4/20/2017 10:03:11 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, casioqv(a)usermail.com writes: I think the attention to detail is what makes M boats good overall... something like the choice of bolt heads doesn't make a huge difference by itself, but when the same attitude is applied to every detail of a boat, it makes an enormous difference. I learned to sail on a 1974 Catalina 22 I got on craigslist for $800. There were sharp exposed bolts on the cabin roof, and the deck everywhere... and I figured getting cut and bleeding all over the deck, and unsnagging sheets several times a day was a normal part of sailing, to be expected. It never happened once after switching to the M15, and I feel stupid for not just swapping out all the bolts. Sincerely, Tyler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Farrell" <msog(a)danf.us> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 5:04:46 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Why not hex head bolts? Thanks for this insight, Jerry. It's always nice to have the historical details. I'll go forward with the hex heads and see how much knuckle I skin. The gorilla tape is a great suggestion ( it just so happens I keep some in the boat anyway!). Had to chuckle at the windage point. I suppose attention to details like that is why you win races. With my new sails I'm hoping to outrun the Rhodes 19 ( it's already close and I don't have a Genoa yet) so if I get slower instead, I'll know what to blame :-P Dan Farrell M17 #301 jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org wrote: >We used round heads whenever practical for several reasons, the biggest >being that you are less likely to snag yourself on them when struggling to >get somewhere else on the boat in heavy seas. Most would agree that they >look a little better, and they are cleaner, with less weight and windage. >Some of these are admittedly picky things. Another reason that matters to >some of us is that when racing in a drifter, we use 3/16 or 1/4 sheets, and >these can snag on HH bolts. > >None of these are big deals, and don't be afraid of HH's. Use Gorilla tape >to hold the wrench in place! > >-----Original Message----- >From: Bob Eeg >Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 6:33 AM >To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats >Subject: Re: M_Boats: Why not hex head bolts? > >Dan >Hex head stainless bolts, stainless washers and stainless aircraft lock nuts >are all we use. Go ahead and upgrade. > >I am guessing round head slotted bolts are not standard and someone the last >35 years >probably swapped out hardware and rebedded your chain plates. > >Be well >Bob >Montgomery Boats. >949-489-8227 > >

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Re: M_Boats: Why not hex head bolts?
by Dan Farrell 20 Apr '17

20 Apr '17

Thanks Tom, Not a bad idea. Thanks for sharing! Dan Farrell M17 #301 Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> wrote: >Hi Dan, >I use hex head bolts on my M 17 and anyplace I am likely to open a knuckle >on one I round off the very top edges. A wrench will still grab the flats >but those six top points are polished round. >Fair winds, >Tom B, M17 "AS-IS" > >On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 8:22 AM, Dan Farrell <msog(a)danf.us> wrote: > >> Hi all, >> >> I'm rebedding the chain plates on my m-17. The old bolts are so dirty, >> and replacements so cheap, that instead of spending hours cleaning them off >> I thought I'd just replace them. >> >> I find it rather difficult to hold the bolts in place when tightening the >> nuts after the sealant has cured, and always worry about ripping the seal >> when the screwdriver slips and the bolt turns. Seems that with hex head >> bolts, maybe with a flange, I could put a wrench on the head and the extra >> leverage would help me hold it in place. I could even brace it against the >> the rail or deck with a bit of scrap wood. >> >> This got me wondering why round head bolts were so prevalent in the first >> place. I think my gudgeons are affixed with hex head, but elsewhere I see >> only pan or round head. It doesn't seem that hex heads would cause much >> likely hood of snagging a line or sail. >> >> Can anyone explain why I shouldn't start using hex head instead? Would it >> be ill advised to use them for the chain plates? >> Thanks for your insights. >> >> Dan Farrell >> M17 #301

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MSOG Photosite
by Henry Rodriguez 18 Apr '17

18 Apr '17

Is there a way to rearrange the order of pictures I've posted on the Photosite? I keep finding more pictures to post but they should be inserted in a particular sequence in order to make sense. -- Henry M <https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir>onita

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Why not hex head bolts?
by Dan Farrell 17 Apr '17

17 Apr '17

Hi all, I'm rebedding the chain plates on my m-17. The old bolts are so dirty, and replacements so cheap, that instead of spending hours cleaning them off I thought I'd just replace them. I find it rather difficult to hold the bolts in place when tightening the nuts after the sealant has cured, and always worry about ripping the seal when the screwdriver slips and the bolt turns. Seems that with hex head bolts, maybe with a flange, I could put a wrench on the head and the extra leverage would help me hold it in place. I could even brace it against the the rail or deck with a bit of scrap wood. This got me wondering why round head bolts were so prevalent in the first place. I think my gudgeons are affixed with hex head, but elsewhere I see only pan or round head. It doesn't seem that hex heads would cause much likely hood of snagging a line or sail. Can anyone explain why I shouldn't start using hex head instead? Would it be ill advised to use them for the chain plates? Thanks for your insights. Dan Farrell M17 #301

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