September 2010 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

espresso aboard...
by htmills＠zoominternet.net 04 Sep '10

04 Sep '10

Just came across this interesting device for espresso that looks perfect for the $mall boat $ailor. Pressure from small hand pump in the handle... http://www.handpresso.fr/ Another $ailor who has been using it for a couple years posted the link on a BB I frequent.

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Door County cruise is coming up!
by Gordon Gilbert 03 Sep '10

03 Sep '10

Ahoy! Our Door County cruise is fast approaching, so I thought I'd repost with more details on launch dates and places, and a potential cruise itinerary. So far we have six interested parties: a Montgomery 17 from Milwaukee (me), an M-17 from Madison, a Precision 21 from Madison, a Compac 16 from Minneapolis, a West Wight Potter 19 from Michigan, and a WWP-15 from Indiana. In trying to accommodate everyone's schedules, I set dates for a "core" trip of Thursday, Sept. 23 through Sunday, Sept. 26. Of course anyone who wants to start earlier or later -- or finish earlier or later -- can do so, and the abundance of excellent launch/retrieval facilities along our area of focus should make such flexibility easy. Here's my suggested itinerary: Sept. 23, Day 1: Launch at Fish Creek Town Dock ramps and be ready to depart by 10 a.m. The launch fee is $7, and plenty of long-term trailer parking is available a couple of blocks away. (I didn't choose the ramp at Peninsula State Park because the adjacent trailer parking lot has a 48-hour limit.) Sail to Sister Bay (8 miles with no tacking), past the Strawberry Islands, Peninsula State Park, Horseshoe Island (4 mi. lunch stop?) and Eagle Harbor/Ephraim (6 mi.). Stay the night at Sister Bay Marina and enjoy dinner together at any of the nearby restaurants. Slips and showers are available for $20 per night or you can anchor out and dingy in. Sept. 24, Day 2: Depart Sister Bay by 9 a.m. and sail 5 miles north to Ellison Bay, where we can stop for lunch. Then sail 10 miles around the north end of the peninsula to Detroit Harbor -- between Detroit Island and Washington Island -- where we can anchor for the night. Depending on conditions, and because the days are shorter in the fall, we'll want to set alternate places to stop for lunch and overnight shelter before we head out. Sept. 25, Day 3: Sail back down the west side of the peninsula, 18 miles to Ephraim on Eagle Harbor. Slips, anchorages and restaurants are all available here. If everyone would prefer a more natural setting, we can anchor overnight at Horseshoe Island. A second option for those of you who can extend your trip a day or two would be to sail around the west side of Washington Island up to Jackson Harbor, where you can spend the night and perhaps head over to Rock Island for hiking or exploring. Then you could return via the route mentioned above. Sept. 26, Day 4: Return to our Fish Creek launch site, with plenty of time to explore Horseshoe Island, Peninsula State Park's Nicolet Bay (with close proximity to hiking trails, beaches, etc.) and the Strawberry Islands. Trailer our boats and head home with plenty of great sailing memories for the winter months! Obviously, this itinerary is dependent on conditions, and we may alter it as necessary (going farther on good days, shorter on other days, etc.). By all means, if anyone has other ideas or suggestions for our cruise, let me know. Also, please let me know as soon as possible if you'll be joining us or not. Here are a few resources for your planning: Chart of cruising area: NOAA Chart #14909 Fish Creek Town Dockmaster: 920-868-3476 Ephraim Firehouse Marina: 920-421-0128 Sister Bay Marina: 920-854-4457 Egg Harbor Municipal Dock: 920-868-2048 Digital Lake Michigan cruising guide showing Door Co. marinas: lakelandboating.com/cruise_guide_michigan.cfm Feel free to e-mail or call me with questions. I'm looking forward to the adventure! Gordon 952-890-7323

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Help re. engine and rudder
by Andrei Caldararu 02 Sep '10

02 Sep '10

Hello, I have two questions related to my 1984 M-17, Seaweed. 1) While sailing Lake Michigan on Sunday my original wood rudder cracked. The crack is about 10 inches long, and starts at the top of the rudder, going vertically down the middle of the rudder. It is just a crack in the wood, and the rudder is still in one piece. Should I try to fix it, and if yes how? I was thinking of putting a wedge in, then filling the space with 3M 5200, removing the wedge, letting it cure clamped down, fiberglassing the whole top of the rudder (it is not under the water), and repainting with Cetol. Would this work? The other option would be to buy a new rudder, either a wood one (does Bob sell them?) or an Ida Sailor one. Any recommendations on one over the other? 2) I was thinking of replacing the 2 stroke 4hp Evinrude I currently have (original 1984 issue) with a 4 stroke motor. To be honest I don't quite know why, since the current motor does a great job, and works every time. In the process I bought a Tohatsu 4hp 4 stroke short shaft motor for $500, but found that with the current fixed motor mount it does not reach deep enough in the water. I can replace the mount with an adjustable one -- does anyone have a recommendation for a good mount, and comment on how hard it is to install? Or else I have found someone who sells a 6hp Tohatsu long shaft for $750 which would do the trick in terms of shaft length (and I could sell the 4hp for what I have in it), but I have read some negative comments on it. Does anyone have any experience with either of these two motors? Thanks, Andrei.

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lead vs steel
by Daniel Rich 01 Sep '10

01 Sep '10

Does anybody know what hull number started with lead instead of steel ballast for the M_15? Daniel

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mooring buoy hook-ups
by steve pearse 01 Sep '10

01 Sep '10

Hello! A bit of controversy here regarding whether to cleat the buoy pennant to my Monty 15 or to go with a marine carabiner to the trailer eye. I chose option #1 this summer, and the then-brand new stout dock line sold to me by West Marine has abraded so much that I've had to replace it. OK to go with shackling at the eye, as opposed to cleating? Thanks in advance for sending on your experience and mooring wisdom! Steve on Whidbey Monty 15 #163 Steve Pearse sspearse(a)whidbey.com

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Re: M_Boats: Help re. engine and rudder
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 01 Sep '10

01 Sep '10

Andrei, John Owens is a good guy - does good work and is fair - I would have him repair the old rudder blade and build a new one so you have a back up. I am familiar with Mr. Owens work having seen examples of his products at the 2010 LHPC event and got to meet him - A straight arrow guy that knows what he is doing. Give him a shout - I think you will be impressed. NFIW - just a good guy and a pretty darn good piano player too.............. went sailing this afternoon - 12,000 acre lake with one other sailboat and maybe 5 PB's that I couldn't even hear let alone see! -Tuesdays are g reat for going to the Lake. GO M-17 #316 Drill a hole in it - it'll let the water out!

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Re: M_Boats: Help re. engine and rudder
by ndorf＠surfbest.net 01 Sep '10

01 Sep '10

Andrei: I had a similar failure with my M15 rudder last year. I had John Owens repair it for me and the result was so good you couldn't even tell it was split. Plus I had him make me a new spare blade. Give him a shout. http://www.jowoodworks.com/ Neil Dorf M15 "Puffin" Roseville CA

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Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail
by ndorf＠surfbest.net 01 Sep '10

01 Sep '10

Daniel Personally, I wouldn't drill any more holes into the mast if I didn't have to. http://www.sailrite.com/Sail-Track-Stop-Round (this is what I have) http://www.rigrite.com/spars/XMainsail_Gates.html (more options) http://www.mail-archive.com/montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com/msg13850.h tml (Old 2007 m-boat thread on the same subject) Neil Original Message: ----------------- From: Daniel Rich danielgrich(a)gmail.com Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 09:25:07 -0700 To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Reefing while under sail Now, that makes sense! Easy. OK, I'll do it on my current boat, and when I get an M15, on that one too! Daniel On 8/31/2010 9:23 AM, GILASAILR(a)aol.com wrote: > Daniel - try drilling and tapping the sail slot in your mast for a 3/16" or > 1/4" (use whichever size fits between the 'ears' at the slot area) - > install a SS round head machine screw - install the screw into the track and you > have a permanent sail stop that is also removable. > > The cylindrical or flat stock type stop with the screw variety is prone > to slipping in the track and breaking off the stud. > > Make sure your forward reef line at the tack pulls the bolt rope slightly > forward as the aft reef line is trying to pull it out of the mast. > > Take Care,Have Fun, Go Sailing > > GO > M-17 # 316 > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft® Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange

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