May 2007 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

M-15 keel repair
by Nebwest2＠aol.com 23 May '07

23 May '07

Jim, I sent you an email with some suggestions re: your keel repair. I looked at your pics and it looks like the repair iw well underway. With respect to the Bondo/Lead shot......I'd agree with Gary on that. On Dauntless, I did all the glass repair work in epoxy resin with one exception. When I installed the lead ballast I mixed the lead shot in polyester resin. This was because it took a large amount of resin and polyester is about 25% of the cost of epoxy , and because I was simply using the polyester resin to bind the lead shot together and fill the void area within the keel cavity, not for any kind of strenght dependant repair. The polyester resin/lead shot mixture was thin enough that it would flow into every nook and cranny of the keel cavity and self level itself with each pour making it fairly easy to set-up the next pour. Remember, the lead is much denser than the steel you removed so you will actually have room left over in the keel cavity once you have replaced the same weight of ballast as what you had previously. I elected to add additional ballast to Dauntless at the advice of Jerry Montgomery himself, however, I doubt that he would recommend the same for the 17. >From talking and emailing him it seemed that he thought the orignal 23's a bit tender, but I think the masses would agree that the 17's seem to be a perfectly balanced craft straight from the factory. Unless you had some other reason to add more ballast I'd leave it the same. Once I was done adding the lead ballast I completely filled the reamining area in the keel cavity with the polyester resin until it was completely full. The idea being that if a leak ever developed in the keel again, there will be no cavity for water to enter into. Also, remember to account for the weight of all the resin you use. It really adds up. From memory I beleive that I figured 6 lbs per gallon of resin (not sure on the exact weight). I probably used 8 or nine gallons so you can see how it adds up. One other thing...remember that curing resin generates heat. Be careful how much resin you load into the keel at once. If you get too much curing at the same time things can get hot...real hot! be careful!! Sean ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

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M17 Flotation
by Scott Simpson 22 May '07

22 May '07

I like the idea of positive flotation for my M17. After searching the web, I came across a variety of possible solutions (IE. self-inflating bags, spray insulation foams, styrofoam blocks). I think Bob Eeg suggested the best idea: 2 inflated oversized truck intertubes- one below the v-berth, another under the cockpit. It's an inexpensive, simple, and effective solution. Better yet, one has the option to deflate them providing for more storage. Refining this concept, would be to use Plastimo flexible bladder waterbags designed for the bow area (v-shaped) and under settees and quarter berthes (tube-shaped). Rather than storing water, just inflate them as need be. They are available Defender.com. Scott Simpson West of One 415. 328.2668 scott(a)westofone.com www.westofone.com

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M15 for sale portland
by Bobbie Mayer 22 May '07

22 May '07

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/boa/335643712.html

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Re: Roller furling M17
by John R. Butler 22 May '07

22 May '07

I've never had roller furling, so have no opinions, however I would recommending reading the article "Respecting the furler" in the May/ June 2007 issue of Good Old Boat magazine. The author, Jerry Powlas, is the Technical Editor, most knowledgeable (and a good friend of mine, to boot). Good luck with your decision. John R. Butler M15 #361 "Rejoyce"

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Re: M_Boats: M-15 keel repair
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 21 May '07

21 May '07

You are welcome - it is VERY easy for me to advise since I am not the owner of the boat!!! LOL. I would contact Sean at _nebwest2(a)aol.com_ (mailto:nebwest2@aol.com) He has personal experience and is very talented at this type of problem solving and work. GO ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

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Re: M_Boats: M-15 stainless centerboard
by Michael Mellor 21 May '07

21 May '07

I had a stainless center board laser cut for a cat boat I built. I provided an AutoCAD drawing of what I wanted and the center board was exactly to my drawing. The edge was very smooth you only have to clean up the slag on the back side of the cut. I knew before I had it cut what the cut edge would look like. I would want to see what a plasma cut edge looked like first. Michael Oregon -----Original Message----- >From: jim sadler <jimsadler(a)jascopacific.com> >Sent: May 21, 2007 2:39 AM >To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> >Subject: M_Boats: M-15 stainless centerboard > >As anyone ever used a solid stainless steel plate for center board? > >Since I need to replace it I am thinking of plasma cutting a solid plate. > >I would try to match the weight and center of gravity of original board. > >Should it be heavier ? > >Captain James >Sailing Vessel Pelican > >_______________________________________________ >http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats ________________________________________ PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com

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Re: M_Boats: M-15 keel repair
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 21 May '07

21 May '07

In a message dated 5/20/2007 11:30:11 PM US Mountain Standard Time, jimsadler(a)jascopacific.com writes: http://picasaweb.google.com/jascopacific/M15KeelRepair Jim, Bondo is NOT a good choice for the repair you are making, bondo or body fillers based on polyester resin freq. contain talc and or other materials that attract and hold water(!) I would recommend using epoxy and lead shot, you might want to remove all the steel from the keel and replace it one time only. There is NO way to prevent water from entering the keel area and it is just a matter of time. It is open now - might as well do it now. Ask Sean if he is available (NW trip) he may have a different idea. Good Luck - Be careful under there! GO M-17 #316a ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

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Re: M_Boats: M-15 stainless centerboard
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 21 May '07

21 May '07

Jim, You might want to get someone to cut it with a waterjet or a laser as it will be a much cleaner part. I don't know what size plasma cutter you have but it will take a decent sized unit. The water or laser will give you a very clean cut and I know here in Phoenix the waterjet market is reasonable. Just a suggestion and worth every penny. Good Luck (Good Idea) Keep us informed. G Oberbeck M-17 #316a ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

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M-15 keel repair
by jim sadler 21 May '07

21 May '07

Check out the progress on Pelican keel surgery Here is the link http://picasaweb.google.com/jascopacific/M15KeelRepair I am thinking of filling the areas of removed steel with paste mixture of lead shot and bondo unless someone can point out the errors in my thinking Should I add additional weight while I a it? Appreciate any ideas or suggestions Captain James Sailing Vessel Pelican

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cleaning my M15
by dmostue＠comcast.net 19 May '07

19 May '07

Hi all, I am cleaning up the M15 I purchased last fall and was wondering... I found a bunch of loose styrofoam (sp?) like that used to pack tv or stereo etc. in the forward area under the v-berth (I'm too much of a newbie to know the proper term, sorry). Is this for floatation? Is it necessary? I pulled it out because it stinks. I would replace it if that is the consensus. Also, I am puzzled as to how any water that happened to get below would drain. Is there some way out? I kind of want to just hose everything down in there but maybe that's not such a good idea. My M15 is #500 made in 1992 if that is of any help. thanks - Dan

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