March 2005 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Interior Painting 1988 Vintage Monty's
by RandyG 04 Mar '05

04 Mar '05

Friends, Thanks again for everyone's help! I've gotten some great repair ideas from the list! Great information! Question: Does anyone know how to duplicate the splatter paint pattern on the interior cabin top of 88 vintage Monty's? The underside of the deck is a painted a basic white, with a slight blue tint. On top of the base-white is a black "splatter" pattern. The pattern kind of looks like spider webs. Does anyone have any ideas about how you would duplicate this splatter pattern? Thank you, Randy Graves M15 #407 M17 #410

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Re: M_Boats: M17 Kick-up rudder
by Larry E Yake 04 Mar '05

04 Mar '05

The rudder blade is held down by cinching up and cleating off the line on the front of the rudder. On impact, the cleat releases and allows the blade to pivot on the bolt. You then just tighten that line back up to pull the blade back down, cleat it, on you're on your way. Larry On Thu, 3 Mar 2005 07:11:55 -0600 "Gilbert Landin" <gilbert(a)mindgame.com> writes: > Randys pictures sure look good. It just seems the one tension bolt > would > make it hard for the bottom part to stay horizontal on a good sail. > > gil > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Larry E Yake" <leyake(a)juno.com> > To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 11:20 PM > Subject: M_Boats: M17 Kick-up rudder > > > > My new kick-up rudder from Ida Sailor arrived this week. I'm > impressed. > > It fits perfect and the workmanship is top notch. Can't wait for > spring > > to try it out. All I have to do is drill the tiller pivot bolt > hole, > > since I'm using my old tiller. Randy Graves added some pictures of > it to > > his website at http://sailing.gravesfam.us . It has some custom > > modifications to fit my non-standard gudgeons, and I had the > optional > > releasing jam cleat added, but the basic design will be the same > for the > > standard M17 setup. > > > > Larry Yake > > M17 #200 > > Tullamore > > "In a power boat you get there faster. > > In a sailboat you're already there." > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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Question 1, Randy's bungs
by Rick Langer 03 Mar '05

03 Mar '05

Randy, I made hand rails that bolt to the teak hatch slide covers, using the existing holes. I decided to leave the bungs in until I got the cover off the boat and then knock them out by diving the bolt from the nut side. That part worked just fine. A harder task was getting the nuts off without access to the screw heads. Most of the nuts came right off because the screw heads were glued in place, probably from the bung glue. There were three nuts that just spun the bolts. For these I grabbed the bolt tip with vise grips and backed out the nuts as far as I could. I then cut off the bolt tip that I just destroyed with the vise grips, so it wouldn't bind the nut. Next I wedged a flat screwdriver under the washer behind the nut and pried as I backed out the nut. A lot of pressure can be put on the bolt this way and although the screw head may slip some, it will grab enough to get the nut off, by applying more leverage and synchronizing the pull on the screwdriver and the spin of the racket wrench. If you run into any really stubborn nuts you can always go to the drill and chisel method, but the way the bungs are on the curved part of the toe rail, I would be afraid of doing some serious damage to it with a chisel. Rick Langer M15 #337 p.s. Hey Randy, noticing the hull numbers of your two boats, I would expect they were both in the factory at the same time. What's the chances of two boats starting out in the same place, traveling in different directions and ending up in the same driveway twenty years later.

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re: 3 Question
by Rick Langer 03 Mar '05

03 Mar '05

Tod, your not drinking enough beer! Rick > P.S. You can even stand on a Gatorade type plastic bottle. In fact, I was > even able to JUMP up and down on one without it bursting or blowing the cap > off. > > Tod >/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > End of montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 25, Issue 1 > ***********************************************

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M17 Kick-up rudder
by Larry E Yake 03 Mar '05

03 Mar '05

My new kick-up rudder from Ida Sailor arrived this week. I'm impressed. It fits perfect and the workmanship is top notch. Can't wait for spring to try it out. All I have to do is drill the tiller pivot bolt hole, since I'm using my old tiller. Randy Graves added some pictures of it to his website at http://sailing.gravesfam.us . It has some custom modifications to fit my non-standard gudgeons, and I had the optional releasing jam cleat added, but the basic design will be the same for the standard M17 setup. Larry Yake M17 #200 Tullamore "In a power boat you get there faster. In a sailboat you're already there."

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Galvanized fenders
by M & P Wells 03 Mar '05

03 Mar '05

Re: galvanized trailer fenders in montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 25, Issue 1 Galvanized steel can be painted....be sure to clean and prime first. If you drill any holes, trim the metal, or expose any ungalvanized material, you should spray it with "cold galv." You can get aerosol cans of cold galv at the hardware. You can leave galvanized parts unpainted but if you live, sail, or visit the sea, it's best to paint. Phyllis and Michael Wells (the soon-to-be owners of Charless and Marjorie Fowlkes' M15 #312) Beach Rd PO Box 52 Charleston NEW ZEALAND phone 03-789-6028 -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+mwells=montana.edu(a)mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+mwells=montana.edu@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 11:19 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 25, Issue 1 Send montgomery_boats mailing list submissions to montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com You can reach the person managing the list at montgomery_boats-owner(a)mailman.xmission.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of montgomery_boats digest..." Today's Topics: 1. 3 Question (RandyG) 2. RE: 3 Question (Roberta Dvorscak) 3. Cabin roof structure (Rick Langer) 4. Re: 3 Question (chbenneck(a)juno.com) 5. re: 3 Question (Steve R.) 6. Re: re: 3 Question (chbenneck(a)juno.com) 7. RE: re: 3 Question (htmills(a)bright.net) 8. RE: re: 3 Question (htmills(a)bright.net) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 21:41:12 -0800 From: "RandyG" <RandyG(a)cite.nic.edu> Subject: M_Boats: 3 Question To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Message-ID: <81FBC76D3DB65A439B1BE673340C71BA019F71(a)flynn.cite.nic.edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Friends, Thanks for all your help! Have 3 questions. 1- How is the best way to remove teak bungs/plugs? Is it best to drill a hole smaller than the bung and then chip out the rest? Or, is it best when removing the bung to drill a size bigger than the bung and use a larger size when replacing? Or? I've tried the smaller hole route and am thinking there must be a better way. 2- Does anyone have a suggestion of how best to repair small-medium gelcoat nicks and gouges? Is there like a body putty for fiberglass? How do you color match and touch up the paint? Can you buy touch-up Gelcoat? 3- In shopping for replacement fenders for the rusted trailrite, I see that I can buy either Black Iron or Galvanized. The trailer is painted and I would want the fenders to be painted also. Galvanized seems like a better choice to resist corrosion, but is galvanized meant to be painted? Or, if you are primer/painting is it just as well to go with Black Iron? Thanks So Much for all your help! Sincerely, Randy Graves M15 #407 M17 #410 ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 22:18:37 -0800 From: "Roberta Dvorscak" <edarts93(a)earthlink.net> Subject: RE: M_Boats: 3 Question To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Message-ID: <001c01c51e26$8f3828a0$5e00f204@edible2002> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Randy, 1) I would try drilling a small hole in the bung then put a wood screw in it. As you tighten the screw you may find that it will either force the bung out or loosen it so that you can grab the screw with pliers and pull the bung out with the screw. Of course, the bung may just splinter apart leaving you to carefully scrape out the remains with a sharp implement. This method has worked for me. I definitely wouldn't drill an oversize hole. 2) You can get gel coat repair kits. (West Marine sells them) The "buff white" color seemed to match the gel coat color on our M17 very well. The smaller the nick, the better the repair will look. I had some difficulty getting a good smooth repair on some bigger gouges. From several feet away they looked ok, though. 3) I don't think you're supposed to paint galvanized. Get the "black iron" fenders. There's my opinion. Others with greater knowledge may think otherwise, in which case I will gladly accept correction. Mark Dvorscak M23 #74 Faith -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+edarts93=earthlink.net(a)mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+edarts93=earthlink.net@mailman.xmission .com] On Behalf Of RandyG Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 9:41 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: M_Boats: 3 Question Friends, Thanks for all your help! Have 3 questions. 1- How is the best way to remove teak bungs/plugs? Is it best to drill a hole smaller than the bung and then chip out the rest? Or, is it best when removing the bung to drill a size bigger than the bung and use a larger size when replacing? Or? I've tried the smaller hole route and am thinking there must be a better way. 2- Does anyone have a suggestion of how best to repair small-medium gelcoat nicks and gouges? Is there like a body putty for fiberglass? How do you color match and touch up the paint? Can you buy touch-up Gelcoat? 3- In shopping for replacement fenders for the rusted trailrite, I see that I can buy either Black Iron or Galvanized. The trailer is painted and I would want the fenders to be painted also. Galvanized seems like a better choice to resist corrosion, but is galvanized meant to be painted? Or, if you are primer/painting is it just as well to go with Black Iron? Thanks So Much for all your help! Sincerely, Randy Graves M15 #407 M17 #410 ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2005 06:54:29 -0500 From: Rick Langer <farreach(a)optonline.net> Subject: M_Boats: Cabin roof structure To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <000e01c51e55$6cdfd8f0$6501a8c0@FAMILY> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Thanks Jerry, it's really great having the official answer on such things. I'm installing a wire through the cabin roof for a masthead tricolor light. I guess I'll drill a hole larger than I need so I can get plenty of epoxy in there before I try sealing the wire. Rick > Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 14:40:48 -0800 > From: "jerry" <jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org> > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Cabin roof structure > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: <005201c51d1d$62864170$07f4bbd0@jerrym> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Rick- The 15 has a balsa cored deck; 1/4" in general, but the doubler under > the mast step is an additional 1/2". > > Jerry > jerrymontgomery.org > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rick Langer" <farreach(a)optonline.net> > To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 7:19 AM > Subject: M_Boats: Cabin roof structure > > > > Can someone tell me if the M15 cabin roof is cored or solid fiberglass? I > guess I'll find out when I drill the holes, but I just want to plan my > approach before I drill. The area I'm concerned with is around the > mast step. > > > > Thanks, > > Rick Langer > ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 11:16:49 -0500 From: chbenneck(a)juno.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: 3 Question To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <20050301.113155.2844.7.chbenneck(a)juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Randy, To answer your questions: 1. Teak plugs have to be destroyed in order to remove them. They are not reusable! I just take a drill that is smaller than the plug, and drill down the center. You will feel the drill break through the bottom if the plug is not as deep as the hole, or you will find that you can't go any further because you are hitting the head of the screw. At that point I take a narrow chisel and carefully remove the remainder of the plug from the hole. It should break into pieces and fall away from the edge of the hole so that you can remove it. Now you have full access to the screw underneath. When reinstalling the teak plugs, remember to orient the grain to match the grain in the toe rail, then it is less visible. Also let it protrude above the toe rail when you glue the new plug in place. When the glue has dried, then carefully shave it down to match the surface. ........I said carefully, because grain in plugs doesn't necessarily run straight, and you then have the danger of the plug splitting along a grain line, leaving you with an unintentional hole on one side of your freshly plugged area. Been there - done that! 2. See WEST Epoxy manual on products and methods for doing gelcoat repairs. (not West Marine) Color match is the critical item. On small craze cracks, or very minor gauges color mismatch is hardly visible. The problem grows as you repair larger areas. Then you may have to consider repainting the refinished hull to get back to a uniform color (and shiny finish). Repainting is not difficult - after you have done it the first time and gone through the "learning curve". My recommendation is to use a One-Part Polyurethane enamel, they are easier to use than the two part paints. It's easier to hold a wet edge and do a good job at your first try. 3. Can't offer any comments about the fenders. Connie M15 #400 ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 21:30:43 -0800 (PST) From: Steve R. <stever(a)mail.saabnet.com> Subject: M_Boats: re: 3 Question To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <20050302053043.01210393F(a)sitemail.everyone.net> Content-Type: text/plain Speaking of fenders, does anyone have experience with plastic fenders? Can you stand on them? steve Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 10:36:08 -0500 From: chbenneck(a)juno.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: re: 3 Question To: stever@mail.saabnet.com,montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Message-ID: <20050302.104514.2660.0.chbenneck(a)juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi Steve, Yes you can stand on them but it is very awkward. Mine are long and round with a ribbed surface. I have never tried standing on them - I'm not an acrobat, and having a skateboard go out from under me, with me landing on my rump dissuaded me from trying to stand on other round rolly things. As for supporting your weight, it certainly should be more than adequate. A motorboat wake throwing your boat against a pier wall will be a much greater load than just your body weight on a fender. Connie ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 17:15:08 -0500 From: <htmills(a)bright.net> Subject: RE: M_Boats: re: 3 Question To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Message-ID: <000f01c51f75$4be6f8b0$5b9ddb42@HTM031103> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" I can stand on my Taylor fenders. Tod -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net(a)mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Steve R. Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 12:31 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: re: 3 Question Speaking of fenders, does anyone have experience with plastic fenders? Can you stand on them? steve Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 17:19:10 -0500 From: <htmills(a)bright.net> Subject: RE: M_Boats: re: 3 Question To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Message-ID: <001001c51f75$dc3ee030$5b9ddb42@HTM031103> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" P.S. You can even stand on a Gatorade type plastic bottle. In fact, I was even able to JUMP up and down on one without it bursting or blowing the cap off. Tod -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net(a)mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of htmills(a)bright.net Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 5:15 PM To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats' Subject: RE: M_Boats: re: 3 Question I can stand on my Taylor fenders. Tod -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net(a)mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Steve R. Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 12:31 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: re: 3 Question Speaking of fenders, does anyone have experience with plastic fenders? Can you stand on them? steve Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ montgomery_boats mailing list montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats End of montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 25, Issue 1 ***********************************************

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Re: M_Boats: 3 Question
by Larry E Yake 03 Mar '05

03 Mar '05

Well, it was good for a chuckle, Todd. I thought you both were writing with "tongue firmly planted in cheek". Larry On Wed, 2 Mar 2005 18:58:22 -0500 <htmills(a)bright.net> writes: > Oh, man....TRAILER fenders. Did Connie and I miss the boat or what? > Or > maybe Connie was just making a joke and I missed the boat. > > Whoooooooops! > > Tod > > -----Original Message----- > From: > montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net(a)mailman.xmission.com > [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com] > On > Behalf Of M & P Wells > Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 6:53 PM > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Subject: M_Boats: Galvanized fenders > > > Re: galvanized trailer fenders in montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 25, > Issue 1 > > Galvanized steel can be painted....be sure to clean and prime first. > If you > drill any holes, trim the metal, or expose any ungalvanized > material, you > should spray it with "cold galv." You can get aerosol cans of cold > galv at > the hardware. > > You can leave galvanized parts unpainted but if you live, sail, or > visit the > sea, it's best to paint. > > > Phyllis and Michael Wells > (the soon-to-be owners of Charless and Marjorie Fowlkes' M15 #312) > Beach Rd > PO Box 52 Charleston NEW ZEALAND phone 03-789-6028 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: > montgomery_boats-bounces+mwells=montana.edu(a)mailman.xmission.com > [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+mwells=montana.edu@mailman.xmission.com] > On > Behalf Of montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com > Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 11:19 AM > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Subject: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 25, Issue 1 > > Send montgomery_boats mailing list submissions to > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > montgomery_boats-owner(a)mailman.xmission.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than > "Re: Contents of montgomery_boats digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. 3 Question (RandyG) > 2. RE: 3 Question (Roberta Dvorscak) > 3. Cabin roof structure (Rick Langer) > 4. Re: 3 Question (chbenneck(a)juno.com) > 5. re: 3 Question (Steve R.) > 6. Re: re: 3 Question (chbenneck(a)juno.com) > 7. RE: re: 3 Question (htmills(a)bright.net) > 8. RE: re: 3 Question (htmills(a)bright.net) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 21:41:12 -0800 > From: "RandyG" <RandyG(a)cite.nic.edu> > Subject: M_Boats: 3 Question > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: > <81FBC76D3DB65A439B1BE673340C71BA019F71(a)flynn.cite.nic.edu> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Friends, > > Thanks for all your help! Have 3 questions. > > 1- How is the best way to remove teak bungs/plugs? Is it best to > drill a > hole smaller than the bung and then chip out the rest? Or, is it > best when > removing the bung to drill a size bigger than the bung and use a > larger size > when replacing? Or? I've tried the smaller hole route and am > thinking there > must be a better way. > > 2- Does anyone have a suggestion of how best to repair small-medium > gelcoat > nicks and gouges? Is there like a body putty for fiberglass? How do > you > color match and touch up the paint? Can you buy touch-up Gelcoat? > > 3- In shopping for replacement fenders for the rusted trailrite, I > see that > I can buy either Black Iron or Galvanized. The trailer is painted > and I > would want the fenders to be painted also. Galvanized seems like a > better > choice to resist corrosion, but is galvanized meant to be painted? > Or, if > you are primer/painting is it just as well to go with Black Iron? > > Thanks So Much for all your help! > > Sincerely, > Randy Graves > M15 #407 > M17 #410 > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 22:18:37 -0800 > From: "Roberta Dvorscak" <edarts93(a)earthlink.net> > Subject: RE: M_Boats: 3 Question > To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: <001c01c51e26$8f3828a0$5e00f204@edible2002> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Randy, > 1) I would try drilling a small hole in the bung then put a > wood > screw in it. As you tighten the screw you may find that it will > either force > the bung out or loosen it so that you can grab the screw with pliers > and > pull the bung out with the screw. Of course, the bung may just > splinter > apart leaving you to carefully scrape out the remains with a sharp > implement. This method has worked for me. I definitely wouldn't > drill an > oversize hole. > 2) You can get gel coat repair kits. (West Marine sells > them) The > "buff white" color seemed to match the gel coat color on our M17 > very well. > The smaller the nick, the better the repair will look. I had some > difficulty > getting a good smooth repair on some bigger gouges. From several > feet away > they looked ok, though. > 3) I don't think you're supposed to paint galvanized. Get > the "black > iron" fenders. There's my opinion. Others with greater knowledge may > think > otherwise, in which case I will gladly accept correction. Mark > Dvorscak M23 > #74 Faith > > -----Original Message----- > From: > montgomery_boats-bounces+edarts93=earthlink.net(a)mailman.xmission.com > [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+edarts93=earthlink.net@mailman.xmission > .com] On Behalf Of RandyG > Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 9:41 PM > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > Subject: M_Boats: 3 Question > > Friends, > > Thanks for all your help! Have 3 questions. > > 1- How is the best way to remove teak bungs/plugs? Is it best to > drill a > hole smaller than the bung and then chip out the rest? Or, is it > best when > removing the bung to drill a size bigger than the bung and use a > larger size > when replacing? Or? I've tried the smaller hole route and am > thinking there > must be a better way. > > 2- Does anyone have a suggestion of how best to repair small-medium > gelcoat > nicks and gouges? Is there like a body putty for fiberglass? How do > you > color match and touch up the paint? Can you buy touch-up Gelcoat? > > 3- In shopping for replacement fenders for the rusted trailrite, I > see that > I can buy either Black Iron or Galvanized. The trailer is painted > and I > would want the fenders to be painted also. Galvanized seems like a > better > choice to resist corrosion, but is galvanized meant to be painted? > Or, if > you are primer/painting is it just as well to go with Black Iron? > > Thanks So Much for all your help! > > Sincerely, > Randy Graves > M15 #407 > M17 #410 > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Tue, 01 Mar 2005 06:54:29 -0500 > From: Rick Langer <farreach(a)optonline.net> > Subject: M_Boats: Cabin roof structure > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Message-ID: <000e01c51e55$6cdfd8f0$6501a8c0@FAMILY> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > > Thanks Jerry, it's really great having the official answer on such > things. > I'm installing a wire through the cabin roof for a masthead tricolor > light. > I guess I'll drill a hole larger than I need so I can get plenty of > epoxy in > there before I try sealing the wire. > > Rick > > > Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 14:40:48 -0800 > > From: "jerry" <jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org> > > Subject: Re: M_Boats: Cabin roof structure > > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" > > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > > Message-ID: <005201c51d1d$62864170$07f4bbd0@jerrym> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > > > Rick- The 15 has a balsa cored deck; 1/4" in general, but the > doubler > under > > the mast step is an additional 1/2". > > > > Jerry > > jerrymontgomery.org > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Rick Langer" <farreach(a)optonline.net> > > To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > > Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 7:19 AM > > Subject: M_Boats: Cabin roof structure > > > > > > > Can someone tell me if the M15 cabin roof is cored or solid > > > fiberglass? > I > > guess I'll find out when I drill the holes, but I just want to > plan my > > approach before I drill. The area I'm concerned with is around the > > > mast step. > > > > > > Thanks, > > > Rick Langer > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 11:16:49 -0500 > From: chbenneck(a)juno.com > Subject: Re: M_Boats: 3 Question > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Message-ID: <20050301.113155.2844.7.chbenneck(a)juno.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Hi Randy, > > To answer your questions: > > 1. Teak plugs have to be destroyed in order to remove them. They > are not > reusable! > > I just take a drill that is smaller than the plug, and drill down > the > center. You will feel the drill break through the bottom if the > plug is not > as deep as the hole, or you will find that you can't go any further > because > you are hitting the head of the screw. > > At that point I take a narrow chisel and carefully remove the > remainder of > the plug from the hole. It should break into pieces and fall away > from the > edge of the hole so that you can remove it. > > Now you have full access to the screw underneath. > > When reinstalling the teak plugs, remember to orient the grain to > match the > grain in the toe rail, then it is less visible. > > Also let it protrude above the toe rail when you glue the new plug > in place. > When the glue has dried, then carefully shave it down to match the > surface. > ........I said carefully, because grain in plugs doesn't necessarily > run > straight, and you then have the danger of the plug splitting along a > grain > line, leaving you with an unintentional hole on one side of your > freshly > plugged area. Been there - done that! > > 2. See WEST Epoxy manual on products and methods for doing gelcoat > repairs. > (not West Marine) > > Color match is the critical item. On small craze cracks, or very > minor > gauges color mismatch is hardly visible. The problem grows as you > repair > larger areas. Then you may have to consider repainting the > refinished hull > to get back to a uniform color (and shiny finish). > > Repainting is not difficult - after you have done it the first time > and gone > through the "learning curve". My recommendation is to use a > One-Part > Polyurethane enamel, they are easier to use than the two part > paints. It's > easier to hold a wet edge and do a good job at your first try. > > 3. Can't offer any comments about the fenders. > > Connie > > M15 #400 > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2005 21:30:43 -0800 (PST) > From: Steve R. <stever(a)mail.saabnet.com> > Subject: M_Boats: re: 3 Question > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Message-ID: <20050302053043.01210393F(a)sitemail.everyone.net> > Content-Type: text/plain > > Speaking of fenders, does anyone have experience with plastic > fenders? Can > you stand on them? > > steve > > Steve R. > M-15 #119 > Lexington, KY > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 10:36:08 -0500 > From: chbenneck(a)juno.com > Subject: Re: M_Boats: re: 3 Question > To: stever@mail.saabnet.com,montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com > Message-ID: <20050302.104514.2660.0.chbenneck(a)juno.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Hi Steve, > > Yes you can stand on them but it is very awkward. > > Mine are long and round with a ribbed surface. I have never tried > standing > on them - I'm not an acrobat, and having a skateboard go out from > under me, > with me landing on my rump dissuaded me from trying to stand on > other round > rolly things. > > As for supporting your weight, it certainly should be more than > adequate. A > motorboat wake throwing your boat against a pier wall will be a much > greater > load than just your body weight on a fender. > > > Connie > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 17:15:08 -0500 > From: <htmills(a)bright.net> > Subject: RE: M_Boats: re: 3 Question > To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: <000f01c51f75$4be6f8b0$5b9ddb42@HTM031103> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > > I can stand on my Taylor fenders. > > Tod > > -----Original Message----- > From: > montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net(a)mailman.xmission.com > [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com] > On > Behalf Of Steve R. > Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 12:31 AM > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Subject: M_Boats: re: 3 Question > > > Speaking of fenders, does anyone have experience with plastic > fenders? Can > you stand on them? > > steve > > Steve R. > M-15 #119 > Lexington, KY > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 17:19:10 -0500 > From: <htmills(a)bright.net> > Subject: RE: M_Boats: re: 3 Question > To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: <001001c51f75$dc3ee030$5b9ddb42@HTM031103> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > > P.S. You can even stand on a Gatorade type plastic bottle. In > fact, I was > even able to JUMP up and down on one without it bursting or blowing > the cap > off. > > Tod > > -----Original Message----- > From: > montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net(a)mailman.xmission.com > [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com] > On > Behalf Of htmills(a)bright.net > Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 5:15 PM > To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats' > Subject: RE: M_Boats: re: 3 Question > > > I can stand on my Taylor fenders. > > Tod > > -----Original Message----- > From: > montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net(a)mailman.xmission.com > [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com] > On > Behalf Of Steve R. > Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 12:31 AM > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Subject: M_Boats: re: 3 Question > > > Speaking of fenders, does anyone have experience with plastic > fenders? Can > you stand on them? > > steve > > Steve R. > M-15 #119 > Lexington, KY > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > montgomery_boats mailing list montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > End of montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 25, Issue 1 > *********************************************** > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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re: 3 Question
by Steve R. 02 Mar '05

02 Mar '05

Speaking of fenders, does anyone have experience with plastic fenders? Can you stand on them? steve Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY

2 2

Re: M_Boats: re: 3 Question
by chbenneck＠juno.com 02 Mar '05

02 Mar '05

Hi Steve, Yes you can stand on them but it is very awkward. Mine are long and round with a ribbed surface. I have never tried standing on them - I'm not an acrobat, and having a skateboard go out from under me, with me landing on my rump dissuaded me from trying to stand on other round rolly things. As for supporting your weight, it certainly should be more than adequate. A motorboat wake throwing your boat against a pier wall will be a much greater load than just your body weight on a fender. Connie

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Re: M_Boats: 3 Question
by chbenneck＠juno.com 01 Mar '05

01 Mar '05

Hi Randy, To answer your questions: 1. Teak plugs have to be destroyed in order to remove them. They are not reusable! I just take a drill that is smaller than the plug, and drill down the center. You will feel the drill break through the bottom if the plug is not as deep as the hole, or you will find that you can't go any further because you are hitting the head of the screw. At that point I take a narrow chisel and carefully remove the remainder of the plug from the hole. It should break into pieces and fall away from the edge of the hole so that you can remove it. Now you have full access to the screw underneath. When reinstalling the teak plugs, remember to orient the grain to match the grain in the toe rail, then it is less visible. Also let it protrude above the toe rail when you glue the new plug in place. When the glue has dried, then carefully shave it down to match the surface. ........I said carefully, because grain in plugs doesn't necessarily run straight, and you then have the danger of the plug splitting along a grain line, leaving you with an unintentional hole on one side of your freshly plugged area. Been there - done that! 2. See WEST Epoxy manual on products and methods for doing gelcoat repairs. (not West Marine) Color match is the critical item. On small craze cracks, or very minor gauges color mismatch is hardly visible. The problem grows as you repair larger areas. Then you may have to consider repainting the refinished hull to get back to a uniform color (and shiny finish). Repainting is not difficult - after you have done it the first time and gone through the "learning curve". My recommendation is to use a One-Part Polyurethane enamel, they are easier to use than the two part paints. It's easier to hold a wet edge and do a good job at your first try. 3. Can't offer any comments about the fenders. Connie M15 #400

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