December 2002 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

RE: M_Boats: Raising an M15 Mast
by Morris, Giles 02 Dec '02

02 Dec '02

The shrouds never need to be detached. Once the base of the mast is attached to the step by one pin, attach the jib halyard to somewhere near where the forestay attaches (there's an extra hole in that plate on my M-15) and raise the mast by hand as you tighten the halyard. It's easy to keep it all under control until you cleat down the halyard. Now you can attach the forestay. I use a device that's sold as a shroud adjuster that uses an over-center lever to let me attach the stay before tensioning it (but I can't find it in the online West Marine catalog). All pins that come out regularly are the Avibank quick-release type. My mast carrier (the fork that fits on the transom while on the trailer) is just a little too short to allow the base of the mast to be attached to the step while it's lowered, so it has a couple of extra pins that allow it to also work in a position that's raised by about 6in. That may not be an issue with other carriers. Giles Morris -----Original Message----- From: murray [mailto:murray@sonic.net] Sent: Monday, December 02, 2002 12:55 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Raising an M15 Mast M Boaters, Can anyone tell me how to successfully raise a M15 mast single handed? It seems that I need a second person to fasten the shrouds while I hold the mast steady in place. Murray Wood M 15 MMP152410283 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Back Again w/ continuing centerboad problem (and bribe)
by Bud Holzschuh 01 Dec '02

01 Dec '02

Hi All For those of you who remember I'm the guy trying to install a Montgomery 15 centerboard (hull #256) that had been removed from the boat and completely glassed over (closing the pivot pin hole). Well - today I jacked up the boat, drove out the 1/2" ss pin (good condition) from the centerboard trunk and proceeded to try to fit the c.b. in the trunk. Q: When the c.b. is correctly installed - I am assuming that it fully retracts inside the cb trunk so that none of the boats weight reasts on the c.b when on the trailer. Is this correct? If so, then I have a problem because when I install the c.b so that it is fully in the trunk the pivot pin passes just in front of the board. (barely touches the board) I am assuming that when the c.b. was repaired/glassed over, a part of the board near the pivot pin hole had been damaged/removed and was not replaced! If all the above assumptions are correct - I am going to have to add on to the top of the c.b. I am capable of doing the glassing but would need a pattern. Does anybody have their c.b. out of the boat that would be willing to send me a tracing ?? In return I offer free dockage (transient)on East Bay (part of St. Andrews Bay) including water and power! (About 15 miles east of Panama City, Florida on ICW) (Actually this offer is good to anyone - just email me at schuh8(a)yahoo.com to arrange.) Thanks in advance Bud __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com

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Re: M_Boats: The yoke's on me
by Steve R 01 Dec '02

01 Dec '02

Hi M Boaters, No pictures to show, but I have solved my trailer retrieval problems. It was one of those spring projects that I finished about the middle of August. I have been out more than ten times since then and I have not found any draw backs. I think the biggest improvement is a taller winch post. The winch is now higher, and the bow roller is well below the winch. I stand on the post to crank the boat in. On retrieval, I walk to the bow, and hook the winch strap. I then step off the boat and step onto the trailer winch post. I actually stand on a horizontal length of rectangular tubing that supports the outboard to the front and the bow roller to the rear. Without my weight, the bow floats several inches higher. If I need to, I center the boat on the trailer. Since most of the weight of the empty boat is floating, neither cranking nor centering requires much strength. A small child could do it. I crank until the strap is about the same length as when the boat and trailer are on dry ground. The boat will be slightly bow high, maybe by two or three inches. If I judge correctly, I will not need to crank any more when I get to the parking lot. My success rate has been in the 25% to 30% range. When I have been off, I have not had to crank more than half a turn. Again, little strength is required. I bought a two speed winch but I have not used LOW. When cranking the boat in the bow actually rolls along the roller. I can see the roller turning. I believe this happens because of the separation between the bow roller and the winch strap. I also believe this allows the boat to come to rest at (or near) the desired position on the trailer, as the trailer is pulled from the water. However, I have not had an opportunity to watch someone else pull the boat from the water to verify this. My arrangement is in contrast to the small distance between the winch strap and bow roller that is commonly found. I think that the bow of the boat is usually cranked in hard against the roller. In this condition, it seems to me that the boat is only free to pivot about the roller, and is not allowed to roll. If it does not roll, it will not settle into the proper position when the trailer is out of the water. I would like to say that I analyzed the situation and thought of a brilliant design to rectify the problems, yielding a solution that allows the hull to roll freely and provides a platform to get my weight off the bow. In reality I was lucky. The arrangement was driven by the location of the motor mount. It was easier to put the bow roller on the back end of the same tube. I use steep ramps, which means I may have had a different problem than someone who uses a ramp with less of a grade. I am curious as to how this will work on a shallower ramp. I also use a tongue extension. I wanted the winch post to carry the mast and outboard motor. I also wanted to raise the winch, because the old winch would pull down on the bow stem fitting. I believed this compounded the bow down on retrieval problem. When the boat and trailer are on level ground, the strap from my new winch is on a horizontal line with the bow stem fitting. At the top of the post, I have a roller to support the mast. It is maybe four inches below the bow pulpit tubing. Under the roller is the winch. The strap feeds from the bottom. Below the winch, I have a horizontal rectangular tube. The front part of this tubing is the outboard motor carrier. The rear part supports the bow roller. The tube is maybe 18 inches below the winch. The bow roller is about 18 inches behind the winch. I estimate that my bow roller is located at the same height as that of a boat with a bow eye. I do not have a bow eye. I thought about installing one, but I am glad I did not. It is easier to reach the winch handle on the tall winch post from the boat, if I need to crank in enough to step on to the post. I carry my boat hook with me when I go to the bow. If I am by myself, I winch out five to six feet of strap, and I do not back quite so far in the water. I use the hook to pick up the end of the strap. I plant the hook on the bottom and use it to brace myself when I go out on the winch post. I also use the hook as a brace when I walk back along the tongue if I am solo. I expected the bottom to be too slick, but I have found it gives solid support. With the hook, I am able to keep my feet dry. I should point out that if I am doing this by myself I wear a life jacket, in case I slip. Also, in the parking lot, the height of the winch means you have to watch out or you will bump your head on the handle. If you think the handle might suddenly spin, you must make sure it will not strike your noodle. I bought most everything from Champion Trailers in Louisiana. They have a web site: http://www.championtrailers.com/ The winch post is their biggest one, which was about half as tall as I wanted. To get the desired height, I used two pieces of galvanized channel. The length of the channel is about five and a half feet, or whatever the max UPS shipping length is. I drilled holes through the channel and winch post and bolted the channel to the sides of the post. This gave me a tall, narrow goal post arrangement, when viewed from the front or rear. Near the top of the channel I drilled holes in both sides to support the mast roller. The roller is bolted between the two pieces of channel. I had a piece of steel plate cut to the size of the winch base. I drilled two holes through this plate to match the winch base. The winch goes in front of the channel. The plate goes in back of the channel. Two bolts go in the holes, and when tightened they clamp everything together. The winch and plate act like the jaws of a vise. The strap runs through the middle of the two pieces of channel, and below the plate. I wanted this arrangement, so that the force of the winch is taken by the channel. If the winch was mounted on the back side, the winch load would be carried by only the bolt threads. This gave enough room for the handle to swing without hitting the bow. Also, it was easy to match the height of the winch with the bow stem fitting. Just above the top of the fabricated winch post is the horizontal tubing for the bow roller and outboard mount. It is galvanized tubing; I think 3 inches by 4 inches, maybe two feet long. I drilled two holes through the channel and tubing to bolt it in place. I will post some pictures when I finish the roll The major goal of this project was to prevent the front edge of the keel from dropping below the front roller on the trailer. I went from three keel rollers to eight, and also added a keel guide. Those details will have to wait for another day. I think these modifications helped the retrieval situation, however I believe the taller winch post had the biggest impact. (I also replaced the springs, axle and hubs.) I would suggest the winch post is the first area to address, in order to: 1) insure that the strap runs horizontally from the winch to the boat, to ease cranking. 2) move the bow roller away from the winch strap, so that the hull is free to roll. 3) establish a place to stand on the trailer when retrieving the boat, so the bow floats higher for easier cranking. As a last resort I would try more rollers or a carpet covered board to support the keel along the length of movement. I float my boat on and off, the keel rollers really do not roll. A board should work fine. If I encounter a short ramp I may be able to get the boat on and off with the rollers. However, I would need to replace my slightly curved bunk boards that hug the hull with straight ones. I decided I needed to go sailing more than I needed new bunk boards. If I were starting over, I would use aluminum rather than galvanized steel wherever possible. Steel is heavier and harder to drill. I spent a lot of time drilling holes. The admirable had to help me lift the winch post assembly onto the trailer. She also helped me bolt on the winch. When I launch solo, I give the winch strap a few feet of slack. I let the boat float off the trailer, and then pull the trailer out so that the tongue is out of the water. Again, I use my boat hook as a brace to walk along the tongue. I climb up on the winch post, and then step onto the bow. The bow is resting on the bunks. To get the boat off the trailer, I sit on the transom and goose the outboard. My feet stay dry. The results have been better than I anticipated. To say that I was elated at the ease of retrieval would be an understatement. Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY --- message from Don Haas <dshaas(a)sprintmail.com> attached:

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Re: M_Boats: Hull Number
by Woodsybill＠aol.com 01 Dec '02

01 Dec '02

On my M17 (55), the hull number is stamped on the upper exterior of the transom. Bill K

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