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Anchoring
by Harvey Hochstetter 30 Apr '02

30 Apr '02

Connie, Thanks for the anchoring info. Pelican has a small (8#)Bruce and a heavier Danforth type, I believe it's about 12#, with chain and rode. It does not have the chocks and I do intend to get something up on the bow to prevent chafe. A couple of questions. One is good for sand, mud and weedy bottoms, one is good for rocky. Without a fishfinder type depth sounder I don't know what the bottom is made of. Would the Danforth be the best all around bet? I am thinking of getting a third anchor so I want to get what would be best for most situations. Also, I want to probably increase the weight and chain size/length as well. Considering the "West Advisors" info, I want to go up in size. Within reason, is there any problem with going to far over-size? Thanks for your response. One of the next sailing days is going to be a day of anchoring drills. Happy Sails to You Harvey & Deena H M-15 #348 Pelican Walla Walla, WA

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Re: M_Boats: Yard Sale
by Jslubliner＠aol.com 30 Apr '02

30 Apr '02

Hi, Jerry. Your boat is doing just fine. New Ullmans: mylar 150 and full batton mylar main, new halyards (wire splicing finally had gotten iffy), lots of other goodies. New lowers you made for us fit perfectly. Almost time for the San Carlos race, so gotta make a showing. In the process of getting ready for Phoenix Tall Cactus Regatta a couple of weeks ago I realized I now have 3 mains, 2 150's, a Skip Elliott 170 I never have used and two spinnakers, along with the keepers: storm jib, 110, 130 and the 3/4 oz chute. I'm keeping the purple 3/4 oz chute but the white 1/2 oz never gets out of the bag. Next time you get to Tucson, drop in and lets visit. John & Anne

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Re: M_Boats: M17 Galley Model
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 30 Apr '02

30 Apr '02

Howard, Hull #316 has the tank under the cockpit sole. The volume is undetermined. I will be removing it as soon as I find nothing better to do on that fine morning. When I have dimensions I will forward them to you. Good Sailing Gary O. M-17 #316A M-7-11 #? C-21 Arizona Foothills 602 943-7252 Office 602 703-7245 Mobile 800 528-8962 Toll Free www.GaryOberbeck.com "Quality is never an accident; it is always the result of high intention, sincere effort, intelligent direction and skillful execution; it represents the wise choice of many alternatives." -William A. Foster

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RE: M_Boats: towing "Really"
by Smith, Tom 30 Apr '02

30 Apr '02

...as opposed to Jerry's normal operating speed of 80+ with one hand on the horn and the other making gestures out the window... Tom Smith Itron Inc. Phone: 509-928-1707 ext. 248 Fax: 509-928-2581 E-mail: tom.smith(a)itron.com Website: www.linesoft.com Knowledge to Shape Your Future -----Original Message----- From: Jerry Mongomery [mailto:jmbn@innercite.com] Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2002 11:33 AM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: towing "Really" Yeh, but Tom never gets above 30 mph! Jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Smith, Tom" <Tom.Smith(a)itron.com> To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 8:19 AM Subject: RE: M_Boats: towing "Really" > We towed our M15 to the bay area two years ago for the Cruiser Challenge in Oakland with a '91 4WD Toyota. It's a 5-speed, but I kept it in 4th so as not to lug the engine. It won't leap long hills in a single bound, but if you're patient, you'll get there. > > Tom Smith and Jane Van Winkle > M15/345 -- Chukar > Sandpoint, Idaho > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: rc2222(a)postoffice.pacbell.net > [mailto:rc2222@postoffice.pacbell.net] > Sent: Friday, April 26, 2002 7:43 AM > To: Montgomery Boats > Subject: M_Boats: towing "Really" > > > Regarding manual vs. automatic on a small truck: > > How would a small truck with manual transmission perform vs one with an > automatic when towing my M15 from the San Francisco Bay area to the > Sierra Nevadas, up and down steep grades at elevations over 10,000 feet > on hot summer days? > > Purchasing a small used truck with a manual transmission is > significantly less expensive than one with an automatic. Past postings > on this list had convinced me to go with an automatic but now I'm > beginning to think otherwise. I need some good advice for mountain > towing with a small truck. > > Thanks, > > Rich Cottrell > M15 "Really" Menlo Park > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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(no subject)
by Jerry Mongomery 30 Apr '02

30 Apr '02

About a month ago I inquired on this list if there was an interest in a new centerboard for the "old" M-17, and got quite a bit of interest; looks like enuff to ppursue the matter. Interest was divided between a bronze board and a lead-filled glass board. There is no bronze foundery around here and after a quick search the closest one is in the Los Angeles area, which would mean shipping the boaards to here (Sacramento), where I would grind and drill them, then ship them to the customer. The cost would be in excess of a thousand dollars, which seems like a lot to me. A glass board with a cast lead core would be lighter (120 lbs???) and there is no good, simple way I can think of to mold in the tang which stops the board from overdropping so it would have to be supported from the hoisting line, which PROBABLY wouldn't be a problem considering the lesser weight of the board. The good side is that the board should be less than half the cost of a bronze one. Something to consider is that several (many?) of the older 17's have a problem of swelling cb trunks, probably due to water getting in and causing rust. I could help this problem by making the board about 3/4" thick instead of the original 7/8". Owners of boats not having this problem- hopefullly the great majority- could shim the boards around the pivot hole (a simple matter). If I do this project it will be either in mid-summer, when I am finished with the 23 project at Nor' Sea, or next fall sometime. Also, I need an accurate paper pattern of a board as I have no good measurements. The original foundry pattern disappeared during the bankruptcy of the iron foundry that had made the boards for many years. So if one of you pulls your cb in the next few months, please lay it on paper (newspaper is fine) and trace around it with a marker pen, not forgetting the pivot hole. Jerry

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Re: M_Boats: Yard Sale
by Jslubliner＠aol.com 30 Apr '02

30 Apr '02

Jerry? How many of the regular cabins have tall rigs. Can you answer this one for us? John

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Re: M_Boats: (no subject)
by Larry Yake 30 Apr '02

30 Apr '02

Jerry, I've got the centerboard out of my '76 M17 getting a new tang welded on, sandblasted, and primered. When I get it back in about a week, I'll make a tracing for you. Larry Y. On Mon, 29 Apr 2002 11:39:38 -0700 "Jerry Mongomery" <jmbn(a)innercite.com> writes: About a month ago I inquired on this list if there was an interest in a new centerboard for the "old" M-17, and got quite a bit of interest; looks like enuff to ppursue the matter. Interest was divided between a bronze board and a lead-filled glass board. There is no bronze foundery around here and after a quick search the closest one is in the Los Angeles area, which would mean shipping the boaards to here (Sacramento), where I would grind and drill them, then ship them to the customer. The cost would be in excess of a thousand dollars, which seems like a lot to me. A glass board with a cast lead core would be lighter (120 lbs???) and there is no good, simple way I can think of to mold in the tang which stops the board from overdropping so it would have to be supported from the hoisting line, which PROBABLY wouldn't be a problem considering the lesser weight of the board. The good side is that the board should be less than half the cost of a bronze one. Something to consider is that several (many?) of the older 17's have a problem of swelling cb trunks, probably due to water getting in and causing rust. I could help this problem by making the board about 3/4" thick instead of the original 7/8". Owners of boats not having this problem- hopefullly the great majority- could shim the boards around the pivot hole (a simple matter). If I do this project it will be either in mid-summer, when I am finished with the 23 project at Nor' Sea, or next fall sometime. Also, I need an accurate paper pattern of a board as I have no good measurements. The original foundry pattern disappeared during the bankruptcy of the iron foundry that had made the boards for many years. So if one of you pulls your cb in the next few months, please lay it on paper (newspaper is fine) and trace around it with a marker pen, not forgetting the pivot hole. Jerry

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Re: M_Boats: Things that go "Twang!"
by Conbert H Benneck 30 Apr '02

30 Apr '02

John, Come-on, do you really know any sailor that didn't tinker with his boat? There is always something that can be improved; or that needs modification; or tweaking....... That's half the fun of sailing. Connie ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.

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Re: M_Boats: Anchoring
by Conbert H Benneck 30 Apr '02

30 Apr '02

Hi Deena and Harvey, Last year I installed chocks at the bow of LEPPO. I did it by cutting down the toe rail to gain a flat surface; then added a teak block inboard of the toerail so that the cleat could be positioned and supported by both surfaces. The top of the chock is now about level with the old toe rail. The cleats were installed with backing plates under the deck, and with bolts / elastic stop nuts holding them in place. So far, they work fine. No improvements or modifications needed. Your anchor question is really a function of where you sail: what the bottom looks like; and what problems you may encounter. If you only sail at the same lakes, then your anchors can be optimized for the type of bottom you find there. If the lake bottom is soft mud, then a Danforth type works well, as will a Bruce. However, the moment you have weed (eel grass is the worst) then the Bruce is the anchor of choice. Why? Well, when the Danforth hit bottom and starts being pulled along the bottom, weeds will be picked up between the flukes and the anchor won't set, because the flukes can't reach their "dig-in" angle. The anchor just lies on the bottom holding nothing but heavy bundle of weed. You can tug on the rode and it will seem to be holding, but if a greater load is imposed, (wind speed increases) then you'll find yourself sliding slowly backwards through the rest of the anchored fleet. This is where a Bruce is superior. The Bruce will go down through the weed and grab bottom. If you are anchoring in a lake where there are tree roots, snags, rocks and other debris on the bottom, then you have to put a trip line on your anchor so that if it gets stuck you can pull it out backwards and retrieve it. If you don't, and loose an anchor, then this is another reason for carrying more than one! Go to your library and look up cruising books. Most will have a chapter on anchoring and anchoring techniques. To find out what the bottom is consult your nautical charts. They list the type of bottoms. The old way of determining what the bottom was like was with a sounding lead. This is what was used in the days before depthsounders. It is a lead weight with a hole in the bottom, and a long heaving line. Tallow is put in the hole, the lead line is dropped till it hits bottom, and when it is pulled back, you know the depth and you can see what sticks to the tallow: sand, grass; shells, pebbles; mud, etc. This is how the old timers determined what was "down there". Connie ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.

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Re: M_Boats: PAINTING THE HULL
by Conbert H Benneck 30 Apr '02

30 Apr '02

Hi Wayne, Painting your hull is no big deal. All the paint companies, International, Woolsey, Petit, etc. have detailed information about their products and how to apply them. Just visit your local WEST, or other boat supply store and pick up their brochures. It's mainly a matter of following instructions. I have used the two part epoxy paint system and the single component paint system. I find that the single component paint system is easier to use, because it keeps the remainder of the can useable for touch-ups and repainting. With the two component system, once you've mixed the two components, your working time is limited, and whatever you don't use will harden and is garbage. If you have an existing boot-top stripe, then just use 3Ms blue (fine line) masking tape, and repaint. There are specific boot top paints made, but they are primarily for salt water use. For your M17 you can use anything. If you are not in the water for the whole season, then you are not concerned with slim at the waterline....... Connie ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.

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