April 2017 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Stern light mounting location?
by Thomas Buzzi 22 Apr '17

22 Apr '17

Hi Dan, They make a flush mount sternlight that will attach to the transom. But I was concerned that with it set onto the transom it would not be visible through the 180 degree quadrant due to the rudder, ladder and ob obstructing the light for other boats to see. So I mounted mine on top of the port quarter coaming. I have a picture of the setup in the MSOG photosite under boat name "AS-IS". That gets it up high enough to be much more visible. To do the wiring I added 6" access ports to the cockpit coaming both port and starboard. These two are pictured in my photo layout at the MSOG photosite. I also changed out all my lights from the incandescent types to the LED type which use much less electricity. Fair winds, Tom B. ps, after doing all that, I think, all things considered I would have gone with the transom light and risked being run down by some cigarette boat piloted by a guy three sheets to the wind.

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Trailer Jacks
by James Poulakis 21 Apr '17

21 Apr '17

So I’m coming to realize that trailer jacks live short, miserable lives. Fulton’s lower end models have the lifespan of a fruit fly but my Fulton F2 has made it about eight years. I’m thinking about another F2 but was wondering if there is a better optopm out there. Any suggestions? - Jim M-17 “Spirt"

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Re: M_Boats: Why not hex head bolts?
by Dan Farrell 20 Apr '17

20 Apr '17

Thanks for this insight, Jerry. It's always nice to have the historical details. I'll go forward with the hex heads and see how much knuckle I skin. The gorilla tape is a great suggestion ( it just so happens I keep some in the boat anyway!). Had to chuckle at the windage point. I suppose attention to details like that is why you win races. With my new sails I'm hoping to outrun the Rhodes 19 ( it's already close and I don't have a Genoa yet) so if I get slower instead, I'll know what to blame :-P Dan Farrell M17 #301 jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org wrote: >We used round heads whenever practical for several reasons, the biggest >being that you are less likely to snag yourself on them when struggling to >get somewhere else on the boat in heavy seas. Most would agree that they >look a little better, and they are cleaner, with less weight and windage. >Some of these are admittedly picky things. Another reason that matters to >some of us is that when racing in a drifter, we use 3/16 or 1/4 sheets, and >these can snag on HH bolts. > >None of these are big deals, and don't be afraid of HH's. Use Gorilla tape >to hold the wrench in place! > >-----Original Message----- >From: Bob Eeg >Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 6:33 AM >To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats >Subject: Re: M_Boats: Why not hex head bolts? > >Dan >Hex head stainless bolts, stainless washers and stainless aircraft lock nuts >are all we use. Go ahead and upgrade. > >I am guessing round head slotted bolts are not standard and someone the last >35 years >probably swapped out hardware and rebedded your chain plates. > >Be well >Bob >Montgomery Boats. >949-489-8227 > >

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Re: M_Boats: Why not hex head bolts?
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 20 Apr '17

20 Apr '17

Tyler, I agree with your position on the attention to detail, but believe that your C-22 was probably modified over the years by someone other than Catalina Yachts - - my family's business sold their products from 1967 to approx. 1998 and they delivered boats from the factory that were generally well fitted - not perfect (as in steel ballast in both models - M-Boats and C-22) but well done, as evidenced by the number of Catalina 22's built. A - bit of useless info - I was about 17 years old and working at the family boat dealership - commissioning a M-17 - I was interested in a condition I noticed, and asked my father "Why are ALL the screw heads aligned (slotted AND phillips) - My Fathers answer was - attention to detail -and from a practical point- you can easily monitor if they are getting 'loose' - plus "it looks cool". To this day I align fastener heads- on my boats and recently the 'tow truck'. All because of our buddy "HayFace" ! ! I like button head allen screws.... smooth and taking it one step crazier - the tools are even lighter and easier to carry! Have Fun, Go Sailing! GO In a message dated 4/20/2017 10:03:11 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, casioqv(a)usermail.com writes: I think the attention to detail is what makes M boats good overall... something like the choice of bolt heads doesn't make a huge difference by itself, but when the same attitude is applied to every detail of a boat, it makes an enormous difference. I learned to sail on a 1974 Catalina 22 I got on craigslist for $800. There were sharp exposed bolts on the cabin roof, and the deck everywhere... and I figured getting cut and bleeding all over the deck, and unsnagging sheets several times a day was a normal part of sailing, to be expected. It never happened once after switching to the M15, and I feel stupid for not just swapping out all the bolts. Sincerely, Tyler ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Farrell" <msog(a)danf.us> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2017 5:04:46 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Why not hex head bolts? Thanks for this insight, Jerry. It's always nice to have the historical details. I'll go forward with the hex heads and see how much knuckle I skin. The gorilla tape is a great suggestion ( it just so happens I keep some in the boat anyway!). Had to chuckle at the windage point. I suppose attention to details like that is why you win races. With my new sails I'm hoping to outrun the Rhodes 19 ( it's already close and I don't have a Genoa yet) so if I get slower instead, I'll know what to blame :-P Dan Farrell M17 #301 jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org wrote: >We used round heads whenever practical for several reasons, the biggest >being that you are less likely to snag yourself on them when struggling to >get somewhere else on the boat in heavy seas. Most would agree that they >look a little better, and they are cleaner, with less weight and windage. >Some of these are admittedly picky things. Another reason that matters to >some of us is that when racing in a drifter, we use 3/16 or 1/4 sheets, and >these can snag on HH bolts. > >None of these are big deals, and don't be afraid of HH's. Use Gorilla tape >to hold the wrench in place! > >-----Original Message----- >From: Bob Eeg >Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 6:33 AM >To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats >Subject: Re: M_Boats: Why not hex head bolts? > >Dan >Hex head stainless bolts, stainless washers and stainless aircraft lock nuts >are all we use. Go ahead and upgrade. > >I am guessing round head slotted bolts are not standard and someone the last >35 years >probably swapped out hardware and rebedded your chain plates. > >Be well >Bob >Montgomery Boats. >949-489-8227 > >

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Re: M_Boats: Why not hex head bolts?
by Dan Farrell 20 Apr '17

20 Apr '17

Thanks Tom, Not a bad idea. Thanks for sharing! Dan Farrell M17 #301 Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> wrote: >Hi Dan, >I use hex head bolts on my M 17 and anyplace I am likely to open a knuckle >on one I round off the very top edges. A wrench will still grab the flats >but those six top points are polished round. >Fair winds, >Tom B, M17 "AS-IS" > >On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 8:22 AM, Dan Farrell <msog(a)danf.us> wrote: > >> Hi all, >> >> I'm rebedding the chain plates on my m-17. The old bolts are so dirty, >> and replacements so cheap, that instead of spending hours cleaning them off >> I thought I'd just replace them. >> >> I find it rather difficult to hold the bolts in place when tightening the >> nuts after the sealant has cured, and always worry about ripping the seal >> when the screwdriver slips and the bolt turns. Seems that with hex head >> bolts, maybe with a flange, I could put a wrench on the head and the extra >> leverage would help me hold it in place. I could even brace it against the >> the rail or deck with a bit of scrap wood. >> >> This got me wondering why round head bolts were so prevalent in the first >> place. I think my gudgeons are affixed with hex head, but elsewhere I see >> only pan or round head. It doesn't seem that hex heads would cause much >> likely hood of snagging a line or sail. >> >> Can anyone explain why I shouldn't start using hex head instead? Would it >> be ill advised to use them for the chain plates? >> Thanks for your insights. >> >> Dan Farrell >> M17 #301

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MSOG Photosite
by Henry Rodriguez 18 Apr '17

18 Apr '17

Is there a way to rearrange the order of pictures I've posted on the Photosite? I keep finding more pictures to post but they should be inserted in a particular sequence in order to make sense. -- Henry M <https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir>onita

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Why not hex head bolts?
by Dan Farrell 17 Apr '17

17 Apr '17

Hi all, I'm rebedding the chain plates on my m-17. The old bolts are so dirty, and replacements so cheap, that instead of spending hours cleaning them off I thought I'd just replace them. I find it rather difficult to hold the bolts in place when tightening the nuts after the sealant has cured, and always worry about ripping the seal when the screwdriver slips and the bolt turns. Seems that with hex head bolts, maybe with a flange, I could put a wrench on the head and the extra leverage would help me hold it in place. I could even brace it against the the rail or deck with a bit of scrap wood. This got me wondering why round head bolts were so prevalent in the first place. I think my gudgeons are affixed with hex head, but elsewhere I see only pan or round head. It doesn't seem that hex heads would cause much likely hood of snagging a line or sail. Can anyone explain why I shouldn't start using hex head instead? Would it be ill advised to use them for the chain plates? Thanks for your insights. Dan Farrell M17 #301

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Montgomery 15's in Puget Sound Area?
by Marty Loken 15 Apr '17

15 Apr '17

Hello - I recently acquired an M-15 project boat and would like to connect with any other Montgomery 15 owners in the Puget Sound area. Any any members help? Thanks, and best, Marty Loken Nordland, WA 98358 (near Port Townsend) email Norseboater22(a)gmail.com

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greetings from nm
by matthew bowers 15 Apr '17

15 Apr '17

hi, live in pena blanca 4 miles from cochitii lake, 2nd largest backfill dam in the world. just below los alamos if you know a-bomb history. the lake has unusual and changing winds. sailing in small boats since a young lad in the Adirondacks and finger lakes since single digits. just bought a laser as well. 1982. my question is best way to repair the leading edge of the centerboard before it has been dropped. i have some kevlar, what should i seal the inch chip with before? ww canoe as well. as i have been sailing a laser for a bit my tipping factor is minimal with this boat, as it is still cold, what are the tell tale of the Montgomery 15 when it is about to go over, and any explanation of how it self rights would be appreciated. nice to have contacts about such an excellent boat. matthew

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Re: M_Boats: M15 vang and loose foot main - M17 vang specs?
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 13 Apr '17

13 Apr '17

In a message dated 4/13/2017 1:23:54 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org writes: (Gary 'Boom Vang' Oberbeck feel free to jump in!) You know what they say "DON'T Encourage him!!!" Vang is essential race or cruise - Upwind the vang should be tensioned to pull the second (if you have four battens on a 17) or top batten parallel to the boom when sighted up the sail from directly below the boom - It can be a bit open if it is breezy (less vang and a bit more twist). In light air it can be pulled on such that the upper batten (or second from top) is angled slightly to weather or hooked - not too much or the sail will stall VERY quickly. The vang also bends the mast down low when applied _ check the rig out some day before you bend on the sails - adjust the vang - on hard and then off - sight up the mast as you adjust the vang and you will see bend down low in the mast - this flattens the mainsail - boat heels less ! ++ (and as a consequence makes the headsail FULLER!) darn ! we didn't want that - More headsail halyard tension is then required - ... Easy to make your 3:1 or 4:1 very powerful by adding one bullet block to the boom bail and a piece of line - 'cascade' - search online or look at Ronstan or Harken sites for examples - makes it almost twice as powerful and easier to use. If you can keep the batten parallel to the boom (or slightly 'open') you should see your upwind performance improve - both angle and speed. Easy. Downwind for another rant. Have Fun Go Sail 'em! GO PS - Personally I like a powerful vang, because 'I' am not so powerful anymore, as rotator cuff / biceps tendon surgery in both shoulders ask me to be 'careful'. - vang is 4:1 with 'cascade'.

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