March 2016 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

bottom paint redux
by Daniel Rich 08 Sep '16

08 Sep '16

OK, assuming now I need bottom paint, and I don’t want to do it myself, where in the SF Bay Area would be a good place to do it? I live in Sonoma County, but I could drop the boat off somewhere to do it. Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich(a)gmail.com

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Sacramento's Camillia Cup Regatta
by jerry＠jerrymontgomery.org 04 Apr '16

04 Apr '16

Registration is now open for the Camillia Cup Regatta, https://www.regattanetwork.com/clubmgmt/applet_registration_form.php?regatt… which is here at Lake Folsom, just E of Sacramento. The race is April 16 and 17. There are a number of M-15’s and 17’s in this area, and an M-15 is usually entered in the race. Be great to get a good turnout. The centerboard cruising boats are run under Portsmouth, I believe. I’ll be there in the prototype Sage 15 catboat.

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Shroud tension
by David Rifkind 02 Apr '16

02 Apr '16

Any guidance on tensioning shrouds? Mine were set at “that feels about right”. It took me a while to realize, when raising the mast, the shrouds are at maximum tension a few degrees from “up”, when the mast base hasn’t quite dropped down flat, and because of the funny angle, the pull was actually bending the bottom T bolts on the uppers. My shrouds I think are too short, and adjusted all the way out I can just barely get the mast up without overtensioning them. -- David Rifkind M17 #402 “Tycho Blue"

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Spreader boot size for M17?
by John Schinnerer 30 Mar '16

30 Mar '16

Hi all, I need to get new spreader boots for my M17. They seem to come in three sizes - small, medium, large. Some vendors give measurements but I can't figure out from the descriptions what they're actually measuring...they have terse descriptions like: Small Spreader Insert: 1/2" - 1-1/2" Stay Insert: 1/8" Length: 1-5/8" Height: 2" I get that "Stay Insert" refers to stay size, but which way is "length" and which way is "height" and what does the 1/2" - 1 1/2" measurement refer to - spreader tube diameter, or...?? thanks, John S. -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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Re: M_Boats: Shroud tension
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 30 Mar '16

30 Mar '16

David, Gotta love stick and stone technology. You are a genius!!! Bungee (old style with deadly wire hooks at ends) hooked into toggle at the upper shroud and then run over shrouds to the handrail has worked...long velcro straps work too - my boat has toggles in addition to the turnbuckle toggle end at the uppers -they actually exacerbate the problem ( I fooled myself on that one heh?) Man - - anybody who figures out the cosine error of the mast butt angle is serious ! ! Excellent - we have someone to figure out these problems for us now COOL ! ! {;>) Spare t-bolts are a required item in the tool kit. (make sure they are the right thread) Think I may go up to Lake Pleasant on Wednesday (3/30) -forecast looks 'nice' - come on up! Have Fun, Go Sailing GO In a message dated 3/29/2016 4:53:01 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, drifkind(a)acm.org writes: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tvrfyvkihd3t310/P3290004-Edit.jpg?dl=0

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Re: M_Boats: Tiller at anchor
by Dan Farrell 29 Mar '16

29 Mar '16

I've been trying them off thusly: I use an extra dock line with an eye splice over a cleat near the stern. I don't bother with anything fancier than just looping or over the stern. I wrap around the tiller twice, then make the other end fast to the cleat on the other side with a tautline hitch and tension it vigorously. It's critical that the two cleats and the wraps around the tiller be aligned - if the wraps aren't directly between the two cleats, it will slide up or down along the tiller and loosen. But if it's kept tight, this will still be snug when you return to the boat ( so far it has held well in a wind storm of 70 mph gusts, but also in the lee of the land, so maybe less wind than that in reality). I find two half hitches doesn't keep enough tension, so I use a tautline. I'm not sure all m17s have cleats at the aft end of the comings, but they should - great for dock lines too. That having been said, I do think this arrangement still puts stress on the pintles as well as the tiller brackets. I snapped one of the cast aluminum brackets last year, and I suspect it wouldn't have happened if I had been removing the rudder after each use. This year I intend to leave the rudder in anyway though... It's not a huge concern for me. Conbert Benneck <chbenneck(a)gmail.com> wrote: >On 3/14/2016 8:05 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats wrote: > >Tie it so that it is fixed, otherwise if you are at anchor or on a >mooring and the boat tends to sail back and forth your rudder is >constantly in motion. > >If you keep it from moving you aren't putting wear on the pintles. > >Connie >> Same as Dave says - http://www.wavefrontmarine.com/ nice piece of work on >> this one. NFIW but I use one. >> >> >> In a message dated 3/14/2016 5:55:12 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, >> jsheintz(a)gmail.com writes: >> >> What are you supposed to do with the rudder while at anchor or a mooring? >> Do you do anything differently for a short stop vs overnight? How about >> when rough conditions are expected? >> >> > >

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New main or jib?
by Josh ua 25 Mar '16

25 Mar '16

After a little browsing on the subject it seems obvious that this is a boat model specific question so I ask those with m15 experience: If a guy could only afford one new sail at a time for his M15, should he go for a working jib or main first for best performance in the higher wind days until he could afford the other half of the canvas? And for a perhaps related question: Do you ever sail with only one or the other - main or head? Which and why? Anyone have experience with a hank-on working jib with reef points for those double reefed main days? Would that be a frugal option for a storm jib or is that inviting too much strain on the working jib?...conditions are fresh water daysailing, not racing others but striving for maximum efficiency while under way in higher wind conditions. Basically I don't care how fast I can go, I just don't want to have to stay home when the wind is forecasted to climb above 15mph...whew! that escalated quickly, sorry for the long winded questions.

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CO2 cylinders
by Rick Davies 25 Mar '16

25 Mar '16

I have West Marine inflatable PFDs that use water-activated 25g CO2 cylinders. They've had the same cylinders for several years. Should they be replaced from time to time, or are they OK as long as all the indicators are green? Any advice appreciated. Thanks, Rick M17 #633 Lynne L

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Re: M_Boats: CO2 cylinders
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 24 Mar '16

24 Mar '16

yeah baby - it's hip to .......wear your PFD - also assists in floating....... In a message dated 3/24/2016 4:22:06 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, scoobscobie(a)gmail.com writes: yes, the bobbins (referred to earlier as tablets) usually have a three year lifespan that is noted on the bobbin. lifespan is based on manufacture date, not the date installed into the PFD. before buying bobbins confirm how old they are ... i've found them on sale and just months from expiration (this is also common for flares). as usual, read your PFD owner manual for details. do some searching you can buy just the bobbins. now, remember you should be testing the PDF chambers. the ones used here at Sage Marine testing is to happen every two months. two ways to do this: manual inflation and firing the PDF using the CO2. i recommend you fire using the CO2 once a year .. i've talked with folks that did the manual inflation testing and the PDF passed. later they inflated using the CO2 and the bladders failed (ie, ripped open). in addition follow the manual on how long the bladders are to hold air after being inflated. replace the PDF is not up to spec. i just have to say it ... always wear a PDF when on the boat, good weather and bad. i also wear my PDF when on the dock, or working on the boat at the dock, and others are not around. -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com On Thu, Mar 24, 2016 at 11:40 AM, Jazzy <jazzydaze(a)gmail.com> wrote: > Hi guys, if I'm remembering correctly, the tablet ones have a 3 year > rebuild time with the kit thing and the pressure activated ones are 5 > years. Trying to remember from the boat show. The CO2 would be indefinite > I imagine unless it leaked or the seal got ugly. > > Here's a cool link.. > http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/DIY-Check-Your-Inflatable-Life-Vest > > Jazz > > > > > > > I have West Marine inflatable PFDs that use water-activated 25g CO2 > > >> cylinders. They've had the same cylinders for several years. Should > > they > > >> be replaced from time to time, or are they OK as long as all the > > >> indicators > > >> are green? Any advice appreciated. > > >> > > >> Thanks, > > >> > > >> Rick > > >> M17 #633 > > >> Lynne L > > >> > >

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Mast drilling....
by Jazzy 23 Mar '16

23 Mar '16

So I'm running mast wires. ..there's an exit hole that's about 1/4 inch down near the bottom of the mast. It would be helpful if it was bigger but I don't want a portable folding mast. Can I enlarge it safely? And how much? Jazz

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