October 2015 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

bottom paint redux
by Daniel Rich 08 Sep '16

08 Sep '16

OK, assuming now I need bottom paint, and I don’t want to do it myself, where in the SF Bay Area would be a good place to do it? I live in Sonoma County, but I could drop the boat off somewhere to do it. Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich(a)gmail.com

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Sealing Sliding Hatch on Montgomery 15
by David Grah 20 Nov '15

20 Nov '15

Hello Montgomery Group! When we have the opportunity to sail our Montgomery 15 in larger waves that occasionally get up on deck, we find that water gets under the sliding hatch and into the cabin. This summer I found that towing the boat on the highway in rain has the same result, water getting into the cabin. This isn't a big problem but sometimes even a little water where you don't want it can be a nuisance (wet blankets and sheets for example). I wonder if anyone has improved this situation with some sort of seal attached to the hatch. For instance, I could imaging a strip of mylar attached to the hatch covering the gap between the hatch and the deck could cut down on water getting in to the cabin but also realize it could gum up the easy sliding of the hatch. Does anyone have successes, failures, or insights to share on this topic? Thanks! David GrahBishop California

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Little Breeze M15
by Michael Mann 18 Nov '15

18 Nov '15

Hi, My name is Michael Mann and in 1982, I sailed the Montgomery 15, Little Breeze from CA to Hawaii. I see on the web site that she has been rescued by new owners in Hawaii and I would love to correspond with them. I am currently sailing on a container ship headed for Honolulu and would welcome the chance to make contact. Thanks for any info. Michael Mann

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Sage 15 cat will be sailing at the 2016 WICR
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 28 Oct '15

28 Oct '15

Greetings WrinkleBoat Fleet ! An update to the event: Rumor has it that the Sage Cat 15 will be sailed by none other than Mr. Wrinkle hisself. Yes it's true! Along with the usual fleet of WrinkleBoats, the newest member of the fleet will make its competitive debut. We have a gentleman from Colorado looking to crew at the event - lots of experience, ex-M-Boat owner - Please contact us at _www.wrinkleboat.webs.com_ (http://www.wrinkleboat.webs.com) if you need crew. If you think you are attending - Please contact us at www.... and we will get your name up on the list. We have a repeat member of the fleet volunteering to assist in the event contact us at _www.wrinkle_ (http://www.wrinkle) ..... with your sugestions, questions or ?? Tentative Schedule: Friday - 1/15/2016 - Arrivals welcomed, Practice Race(s), get to know the lay of the land and the lake. Friday Evening - Wild Horse West Dinner - No Host Burgers/Chili Size of course adult beverages. Saturday 1/16/2016 - Breakfast - Check-In - Skippers Meeting - Fleet Racing - Saturday Evening - Dinner at the Marina (or ?) the Leukemia Cup Awards - Festive Activities - Yacht Club Birthday Party! Evening sail if the weather cooperates is a possibility? Sunday 1/17/2016 - Breakfast - Out and Back Around the Islands Race approx. 10 miles - (casual start and NO marks ! geographic ones, but no 'tight crowded roundings') - Awards for Birthday Regatta - followed by WrinkleBoat Intergalactic Championship Awards Ceremony - Backstay Chickens - Special Awards - The 'Big Honkin' Trophy for 1st Place Overall - Dinner at a Local Restaurant Monday 1/18/2016 is a federal holiday Martin Luther King Jr. Day - enjoy some relaxed sailing on a weekday in January sailing in the desert or travel home before the boss figures out you are having fun. We have been blessed with GREAT weather for the last 4 years - breezes can and will be at times light - early mornings can be snorting - (postponements have been experienced) generally shirtsleeve weather - bring sunscreen. Shoreside support is very good + - Shuttles for transport from ramp to Marina Rest. to Parking lot any combo - call them on cell phone - be nice to your driver - No Charge! Camping from primitive to full utilities with showers/bath are also available. Hotel/Motels from 12 to 20 miles away by freeway access. Contact us at _www.wrinkleboat.webs.com_ (http://www.wrinkleboat.webs.com) if you have questions or are interested but need more info. Thanks for your time. Your "local" host, Gary O. 602 703-7245 (S-A-I-L) _gilasailr(a)aol.com_ (mailto:gilasailr@aol.com) PLEASE FORWARD TO ANY OWNERS NOT ON THE 'SEND TO:' LIST ABOVE THAT YOU KNOW OF THANKS

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Do you need crew for 2016 WICR ??
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 28 Oct '15

28 Oct '15

We have an experienced party who expresses a desire to crew on a boat at the 2016 WICR - if you have a position available, Please contact us through_http://www.wrinkleboat.webs.com_ (http://www.wrinkleboat.webs.com/) and we will get you together. Thank You, GO M-17t sail # 354 'Tiny Purple Fishes'

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2016 WrinkleBoat Intergalactic Championship Regatta & Ran-Tan
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 26 Oct '15

26 Oct '15

Yep - it's that time again folks - have you ever been to WICR? What? -You haven't made it to the largest annual gathering of WrinkleBoats for networking, sharing sailing stories, 'trade secrets' for Wrinkleboat solutions, Stump the Designer sessions, sailing competition, the latest rigging trends/ solutions, renewal and updates on what the 'group' is up to? It is a gathering of the WrinkleBoat Tribe. Two to 3 days or longer if you like -it is a great time of the year here in the desert to go sailing - if your partner isn't up for sailing, there is Scottsdale for shopping - jewels,fashion and collector cars, golf (more courses than _____), hiking, world class biking (on and offroad), spas, horseback riding, MC riding - it is THE perfect weather for outdoor activities and certainly the sailing can show promise! January 15,16,17, 2016 - WICR Racing 1/16 and 1/17 warm-up on Friday - Sunday is an 'Out and Back' Race around a couple of islands - no marks - mellow start - approx 10 miles. Monday is a holiday for travel if you can use that. Follow the event at: http://www.wrinkleboat.webs.com The overall winner of the races gets the BIG honkin' Perpetual Trophy for a year and their name inscribed in WrinkleBoat history! BACKSTAY CHICKENS for those that haven't yet been formally initiated into the WrinkleBoat Fleet and FUN for ALL. All Lyle Hess and Jerry Montgomery designs are welcome to sail - if your boat was designed by a friend of those two - fine!! Come sail in the desert in January - we will be there waiting for you and willing to help in your planning if needed. Great support provided at the venue and by the host club - Arizona Yacht Club (56 years!) This is their Birthday Regatta and the first Leukemia Cup Regatta of the New Year - please help us support a good cause - the best way-FUN way - is to participate in the WICR Ran-Tan! PM me with any ?'s gilasailr -at- ay-O- ell. com GO M-17t 'Tiny Purple Fishes' Photo credit A.& D. Benson - 2013 WICR Sunday morning- headed to WL mark 15 kts.

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Re: M_Boats: Stock wooden rudder
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 23 Oct '15

23 Oct '15

Tom B, What did the rudder weigh? Type and density of woods (different types of mahogany over the years) affect the weight and ultimate strength - my last wood rudder was little better than bad pallet lumber and warped in a few months (stored indoors) Inquiring minds... That is why 'we' built a plastic one. No warping and mucho control over strength,weight and shape! Thanks GO M-17t sail # 354 'Tiny Purple Fishes' In a message dated 10/21/2015 4:58:55 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com writes: Hello John, Another Monty owner already got the info I need to me. Thanks for your offer. Tom B On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 1:50 PM, John Schinnerer <john(a)eco-living.net> wrote: > I have a 74 - plain wooden rudder, painted, two pintles, no sliding rod > gizmo. I can weight it if you want - I assume the rudder was pretty much > the same from 74 to 77? > > cheers, > John S. > > On 10/21/2015 11:27 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: > >> Does anybody know how heavy the stock wooden rudder was on 17 Montgomerys >> built in 1977? >> >> > -- > John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design > -------------------------------------------- > - Eco-Living - > Whole Systems Design Services > People - Place - Learning - Integration > john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 > http://eco-living.net > http://sociocracyconsulting.com > >

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Re: M_Boats: Stock wooden rudder from J.Owens
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 22 Oct '15

22 Oct '15

I tried to post this on the Montgomery forum last night but it kicked back and said I wasn't authorized to post. If you think it would be benificial to anybody you can pass it on. If not just delete it. Hope all is well in your world. As many of you know I make countless rudders, tillers, daggers, hatches, etc. for boats every year. Well over 500 this year. I know from experience that the weights vary radically. Just because it is mahogany, or teak, or ash, cypress, etc. says very little about the weight. There is a production boat I make the stock rudders for that is from a blank roughly 4' x 1' x 1 1/2" and the mahogany blanks vary by as much as 10 pounds. There are some racing classes such as Sunfish, Laser, and Force 5 that give a small window that the boards have to fit in and sometimes it's very hard to meet that. As far as I know neither Jerry nor Bob have ever stated a weight requirement but I've never discussed this with either of them in our discussions. John Owens J O Woodworks / B & L Ram Pumps 903-894-6293 870 County Road 3812 Troup, Texas 75789 _http://www.jowoodworks.com_ (http://www.jowoodworks.com/) _jowoodworks(a)yahoo.com_ (mailto:jowoodworks@yahoo.com) _http://www.blrampump.com_ (http://www.blrampump.com/) _john(a)blrampump.com_ (mailto:john@blrampump.com) In a message dated 10/22/2015 8:52:41 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com writes: I am adding a 5hp tohatsu to the transom weight also. About 58 #'s. I agonized about getting the 3.5 which is only about 40 pounds but the winds down here just north of Corpus Christi, Tx. are considerable and generate a vicious chop. I talked to Jerry about making the M17 really efficient to windward and he suggested adding some weight to the hull and getting a highcut, 80% jib and using a barber hauler to be able to pull it inboard to about 9degrees from the centerline of the boat and double reefing the main. The traveler car should be pulled to windward as far as possible to be able to trim the main to the jib. He said the boat would scoot to windward dressed like that. I dropped the cast iron board this year and faired the leading and trailing edges to better conform to Jerry's idea of an efficient foil shape. The board ended up weighing only 140 pounds though I did not take any more than about 5 pounds off of it when I was grinding it. So the stock board was about about 35 pounds light as per boat specs. I added 50 pounds of lead to the base of the mast step in the hull to make up for that. I figured the 60 pound battery would then be enough extra weight to get the boat to push to windward. Lots of dithering with these little boats. Good thing I am retired. May I recommend getting a subscription to "Small Craft Advisor". It is a great magazine, bi-monthly, about little boats and the handling, maintenance and improvement of same. Since you also have a kickup rudder you might be interested in a piece of gear I devised to add a slip clutch to the line that holds the rudder blade in place while sailing and will only release if you hit something solid with the rudder, thus protecting your rudder attachment without having to resort to shear pins which are a pain to change out on the water after a grounding. Regards, Tom Buzzi On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:02 AM, Larry Yake <larryyake(a)gmail.com> wrote: > I have an Ida Sailor kick-up rudder also, and have wondered about the > additional weight at the stern. I would imagine, though, that the weight > gain is somewhat cancelled by it's buoyancy once the rudder is in the > water. Not as much as a wood rudder for sure, but it must be lighter in the > water than it is out. > > On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 11:08 PM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com> > wrote: > > > The stock wooden one of mahogany with pintles and sliding ss rod weighed > a > > little over 22 pounds. The IDA rudder I have made of high density plastic > > top and bottom with aluminum side plates for a hinge weighs in at about > 60 > > pounds. A hugh addition to weight right at the back of the boat. Not > good. > > I may go back to a wooden one and make it a kickup with side plates. Or > > redo the top half in aluminum plate. > > My list of winter projects is starting to grow. > > Tom B > > > > On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 10:02 PM, GILASAILR--- via montgomery_boats < > > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> wrote: > > > > > Tom B, > > > > > > What did the rudder weigh? Type and density of woods (different types > of > > > mahogany over the years) affect the weight and ultimate strength - my > > last > > > wood rudder was little better than bad pallet lumber and warped in a > few > > > months (stored indoors) > > > > > > Inquiring minds... > > > That is why 'we' built a plastic one. No warping and mucho control over > > > strength,weight and shape! > > > > > > Thanks > > > GO > > > M-17t sail # 354 'Tiny Purple Fishes' > > > > > > > > > In a message dated 10/21/2015 4:58:55 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, > > > thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com writes: > > > > > > Hello John, > > > Another Monty owner already got the info I need to me. Thanks for your > > > offer. > > > Tom B > > > > > > On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 1:50 PM, John Schinnerer <john(a)eco-living.net > > > > > wrote: > > > > > > > I have a 74 - plain wooden rudder, painted, two pintles, no sliding > > rod > > > > gizmo. I can weight it if you want - I assume the rudder was pretty > > much > > > > the same from 74 to 77? > > > > > > > > cheers, > > > > John S. > > > > > > > > On 10/21/2015 11:27 AM, Thomas Buzzi wrote: > > > > > > > >> Does anybody know how heavy the stock wooden rudder was on 17 > > > Montgomerys > > > >> built in 1977? > > > >> > > > >> > > > > -- > > > > John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design > > > > -------------------------------------------- > > > > - Eco-Living - > > > > Whole Systems Design Services > > > > People - Place - Learning - Integration > > > > john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 > > > > http://eco-living.net > > > > http://sociocracyconsulting.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

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Re: M_Boats: Outhaul and reef point boom hardware
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 22 Oct '15

22 Oct '15

Tyler - at Home Depot they call it anti-corrosive paste - in the electrical dept. (typically used on aluminum wiring terminations) the 'Chandlery' name escapes me - it is in the boat tool box. GO In a message dated 10/21/2015 5:11:17 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, danielgrich(a)gmail.com writes: I have too. The problem is that over the long haul one can get galvanic corrosion from the two disparate metals, which causes the aluminum side on the spar to get brittle. The fitting could fail suddenly. JudyB once game me some good advice about this, but I forgot!! There is some kind of stuff in a tube that electricians use to isolate the metals. So painting the threads with that stuff should reduce or eliminate the problem. Somebody on this list will know what that is! Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich(a)gmail.com > On Oct 21, 2015, at 5:06 PM, Rick Davies <jdavies104(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > I've installed cheek blocks and cleats for both reefing and outhaul to the > boom by drilling holes, tapping them with #10 threads with a tapping > drill, and screwing on the hardware with #10 stainless bolts. Easy to do, > and trouble-free afterward. I used the same procedure to move the > mainsheet bail forward when I installed a longer tiller. > > Rick > M17 #633 > Lynne L > > On Wednesday, October 21, 2015, John Schinnerer <john(a)eco-living.net> wrote: > >> I'll second the question about attaching hardware to boom. >> >> My mainsheet block attachment point on the boom appears to have been >> moved forward. There are two sets of what I take to be prior attachment >> points aft of where it is now. I want to put it back to original >> location. The stainless strap that the block mounts to looks to be >> riveted on using aluminum rivets. >> >> Also I have multiple reef point hardware on the boom, curious to compare >> current mounting method to others' experiences. >> >> cheers, >> John S. >> >> On 10/21/2015 01:39 PM, Tyler Backman wrote: >> >>> I am planning to add an outhaul and second reef point hardware to my >>> M15, and have some questions: >>> >>> -What is the recommended way to mount hardware to the boom? I don't >>> want to have stainless rivets fail from galvanic corrosion. I've >>> thought about using plastic shoulder bushings and bolts, but that >>> wouldn't let the hardware mount perfectly flush. >>> >>> -Does anyone have hardware recommendations for the reef point and >>> outhaul? >>> >>> -Is an internal outhaul worthwhile? >>> >>> Sincerely, Tyler Davis, CA M15 #157 "Defiant" >>> >>> >>> >> -- >> John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design >> -------------------------------------------- >> - Eco-Living - >> Whole Systems Design Services >> People - Place - Learning - Integration >> john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 >> http://eco-living.net >> http://sociocracyconsulting.com >> >>

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Stock wooden rudder
by Thomas Buzzi 22 Oct '15

22 Oct '15

Does anybody know how heavy the stock wooden rudder was on 17 Montgomerys built in 1977?

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