July 2014 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Cockpit drains
by Thomas Buzzi 13 Jul '14

13 Jul '14

Good advice, Howard. When I was replacing the tube for my cockpit drain it was a bear to get at it, even after cutting a nice big hole in the aft end of the cockpit. Also, while wrestling with the new hose and trying to get it over the end of the molded in aluminum pipes both in the cockpit sole and the transom, they came loose. Corrosion had undermined the fiberglass resin bond over the 34 year life of the boat. Better they came out there than on the water. Cleaning and applying epoxy fixed the problem but it would have been much easier working from the back of the boat like Henry can do now. Good luck with your renovation. Tom B M17, #258, 78'

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Re: M_Boats: Outboard motor placement
by bownez＠juno.com 12 Jul '14

12 Jul '14

Once again, Connie makes excellent points. I am running a 4hp Yamaha on my M17, and I always remove it to trailer the boat. I have hear stories of transoms destroyed by thieves with sawalls that remove the compete outboard and ruin the boat. A few years back, I installed a different spring loaded motor bracket on my M23. I then discovered the older Honda BF10 4 stroke would not tilt up far enough to clear the waterline on a starboard tack. I took the Honda off and finished the season using my 4hp on the M23. Unless the wind was really piped up, the 4hp moved the boat around fine, albeit with more throttle. Henry, keep the faith with your M17 transom repair. It may appear daunting, but you'll get there. Don't forget to wear your respirator around all that epoxy! Bones ____________________________________________________________ The End of the "Made-In-China" Era The impossible (but real) technology that could make you impossibly rich. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/53c13170741d231702233st01vuc

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Outboard motor placement
by Thomas Buzzi 11 Jul '14

11 Jul '14

Thanks one and all for the quick feedback. I guess I will shop for a 4 hp ob to put in the cutout in the transom and keep it locked up otherwise. Fair winds, Tom B

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Re: M_Boats: Outboard motor placement
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 11 Jul '14

11 Jul '14

Tom B. It is best to NOT travel with the OB on the transom or mount when traveling - PO had carried 8hp Yachtwin (almost 85#s) on transom before I got it and fractured seam at deck/transom from corner to corner. Many boats of same vintage show little if any joint issues here because they did not 'run around the highway' with OB on transom. I have a small fixed bracket on my boat now to enable rotating the motor as it has no reverse - transom was repaired and motor is stowed in truck when traveling - no issues with the seam as of yet. PS - have had both rotator cuffs and biceps tendons repaired - little motor is my friend (4hp)! Good Luck,Have fUn, go sailing! GO In a message dated 7/11/2014 12:57:38 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, thomaspbuzzi(a)gmail.com writes: After seeing the dilemma that Henry is facing I want to make double sure I don't inadvertently duplicate the conditions with my ob. Can the ob be left in the cutout in the transom while traveling down the road? Can it be left on an ob motor bracket that is properly through bolted on the transom? I bought a 6hp tohatsu ob for the boat but found I could not handle the 60 pound weight with my bad shoulders trying to lift it onto the ob motor bracket and it just fit in the transom cut out but would require all steering done with the rudder. I am looking for a smaller motor now. Thanks for any info forwarded. Tom B, Mont. 17 #258, 1978

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Now What Have I Gotten Myself Into? Major Transom Repair
by Henry Rodriguez 11 Jul '14

11 Jul '14

I finally got Chiquita, my Venture Newport cutter, in the water and on her mooring so I turned my attention to my 1979 M17 Amorita. The transom hull deck joint was cracked all around and there are several other cracks as well. I attacked the cracks with a grinder and belt sander, trying to bevel the cracks so I could lay in new fiberglass and epoxy. I ground through lots of filler/puitty and other evidence that the transom had been repaired before. I think it may have been in an accident of some sort. There is a 3/4" plywood core between the inner and outer transom skins. It looks like they attempted to bond the plywood in place but it had come loose. The plywood goes completely across the transom and extends from the top to just below the middle rudder gudgeon. There is a wide notch in the bottom of the plywood where it goes around the glassed-in gudgeon baqcking board. Anyway, I discovered that the lateral crack in the fiberglass extended all the way across the transom. A bit of tugging and the top half of the fiberglass skin came completely off in my hands. I plan on removing the 3/4" plywood "core" and replacing it with new plywood or something else recommended by you guys. I'll bond it to the inner fiberglass with thickened epoxy. Then I will glass over the outside of the core and build it up to the original thickness. Does that sound like it will work? Other questions: The plywood appears to have been added during a previous repair. Was there any type of "core" between the inner and outer transom as built? The plywood is fairly heavy. What other core material could I use? Balsa, Foam? Can I re-use the outer fiberglass panel that I had pulled off as part of the repair (for bulk) or should I just go with all new glass cloth, roving, and mat? Can I mix carbon fiber tape and regular fiberglass cloth in the laminate? Click on the link in my signature and go to the album "M17 Transom Repair" for pictures. I'll be copying this post to the Trailer Sailers Montgomery forum so I can post some pictures directly. Thanks in advance for your suggestions and tips. -- Henry https://picasaweb.google.com/heinzir

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Montgomery 15 boat cover anyone?
by Jim Dahlquist 10 Jul '14

10 Jul '14

I am thinking about getting a boat cover for Winter and Summer, to keep the leaves, snow, and sun, out of my M15 (1996), for both parked and on the road. I will appreciate any suggestions. (Palatine, IL). Also, I am going up to Minong Wisconsin in August and any Montgomery owner interested in sailing in that area or maybe some exploring around the Apostle islands, then I would like to hear from you. Jim Dajhlquist jim(a)dhlqt.com Palatine, IL

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Re: M_Boats: M-23 mast raising advice.
by bownez＠juno.com 09 Jul '14

09 Jul '14

Hi Larry, The winch operation is a sight to behold. Of course, I only use it once a year in the spring to raise the stick. I lower the mast the standard way using a long main sheet and the 4:1 block tackle. I can take a pic of the motor assembly if it sparks any interest, but it will not show it mounted to the boat. Does anyone know if the red M23 in WI by Green Bay sold? It was listed on Yacht world. It was the former "Paprika". Just curious. Bones ____________________________________________________________ The End of the "Made-In-China" Era The impossible (but real) technology that could make you impossibly rich. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/53bd4c865c4164c861ccfst03vuc

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Re: M_Boats: M-23 mast raising advice.
by bownez＠juno.com 09 Jul '14

09 Jul '14

Hmmmm, I wonder why Jerry suggested the jib halyard instead of the main sheet halyard? Dick Lane, former owner of my M23, modified an electric winch, which mounts on the traveler, to raise the mast with a push of a button. Slick. Bones ____________________________________________________________ The #1 Worst Carb Ever? Click to Learn #1 Carb that Kills Your Blood Sugar (Don't Eat This!) http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/53bbe631606c766310b70st03vuc

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Re: M_Boats: Sailor's Tailor? Montgomery 15 boat cover anyone?
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 08 Jul '14

08 Jul '14

+1 on boom tent idea - I have a cover that 'tents' the boom and wraps the mast at gooseneck - small area covers front of house closed with vertical seam at transom area - sunbrella - not too large and covers what I believe is the important stuff (deck hardware, cockpit and companionway) shed water -does not sit on the deck - easy to stow when not in use and easy + to install - fastens at aluminum toe rail on early model M-17. Sailor's Tailor builds a good + product - just be aware that a full cover is a lot of work to install/remove and store. Check if they can build a partial tent type cover. Jus anuther opinion.. Have fUn - go sailing - too hot here! Go In a message dated 7/7/2014 11:07:18 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, casioqv(a)usermail.com writes: I had a Sailor's Tailor cover for my Catalina 22, and found it well constructed but surprisingly I preferred to use a $30 tarp instead. It was extremely heavy and time consuming to remove and reinstall to work on the boat, and it was not waterproof- the deck and cockpit would still get wet during heavy rain and I never could get the topsides totally sealed on that boat. The material was also so thick that storing it folded off the boat required a surprisingly large amount of space. It was constructed to last a lifetime, but I found a heavy tarp tented over the mast was more waterproof, breathed better, and made the boat easier to access and work on. Sincerely, Tyler 1981 M15 #157 "Defiant"

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I am selling my M-15 sailboat with trailer and 3.5 hp Nissan outboard.
by larry hughston 08 Jul '14

08 Jul '14

How do I place an ad on the Montgomery Sailboat site ? (Montgomerys For Sale M-15s and M-17s primarily) ----Thanks, Larry in Sacramento, CA

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