February 2013 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Montgomery 17 steel ballast replacement.
by Thomas Buzzi 09 Feb '13

09 Feb '13

Anybody figure out how to replace the steel stampings with lead in the centerboard trunk once the steel has expanded from corrosion and pinched the centerboard tight? Were the steel pellets bedded with anything or just dumped into the cavity? Thanks for any ideas about this. Tom Buzzi M17, 258,"Social Security"

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Anchor Pulpit...
by Lou 09 Feb '13

09 Feb '13

I haven't checked my E-mail for a few days, but it looks as though some of you were able to access the photos I posted of my bow pulpit. I'm glad you like it as it was quite a project. It is made from 2 pieces of 1" teak that I glued and pegged to make for a 2" thick platform, that was the easy part. I decided that a solid platform might catch a wave, so I would need some holes in it, that was the challenge! I knew that round holes wouldn't look right, so I had to make square holes. I tried on my own, but finally got someone with a computer driven router to make the square holes. I was able to do the shaping and the roller installation and then I attached it to the deck with stainless nuts and bolts. I have some more detailed pictures if you would like to E-mail me. I wouldn't attempt to make a kit for this as one time was enough, but I do think it looks sharp on the boat and it functions well. Still The One... Lou

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Bow pulpit...
by Lou 08 Feb '13

08 Feb '13

I have been meaning to post this for awhile and I wasn't quite sure about how to do it. I hope this will work as I would like to share this project with others on the site. It was allot of work to make this however it does dress up the boat nicely and allows launching the anchor from the cockpit. Missing from this picture is one more roller that is mounted to the stansion that holds the top of the anchor up so it self deploys under its own weight.

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Strange problem with SeaDog panel
by Tom Smith 08 Feb '13

08 Feb '13

Has anyone on the list encountered this problem: I have a SeaDog 6 gang switch panel (Model 422110) installed on my M17 (I don't know if this panel is original equipment on a '92 M17 or not, but the 422110 is a common panel). The thing doesn't seem to like 1 1/4 inch fuses, which is about the only size I can find. Measuring the existing fuse (original equipment I assume) I come up with approximately 1 3/16 inches. Although the 1 1/4 inch fuse will fit in the fuse holder, the larger fuse won't work. I've tried both sizes in the same And get this, a SeaDog tech I've been emailing tried a 1 1/4 in a 422110 and it worked for him. Any ideas? t

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Kick up rudder for M17
by Tom Smith 08 Feb '13

08 Feb '13

I've seen some information about a fellow who fabricated a kick up rudder from an existing, older rudder (the undershot model), aluminum plates, etc. If that fellow is on the list, I'd like to get some details on how this mod was accomplished. I've actually got three pictures of the end product (can't remember where I got them) but no copy to go with. I already use the Ida-Sailor (now RudderCraft), but I've got an older M17 rudder I can fool around with. Thanks. t

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Montgomery 17 replacement of steel ballast with lead . How to.
by Thomas Buzzi 08 Feb '13

08 Feb '13

Ok, Tom, does Sean read this forum or do I contact him some other way? Tom Buzzi

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Re: M_Boats: Kick up rudder for M17
by bownez＠juno.com 07 Feb '13

07 Feb '13

Hi Tom, I had a carpenter friend make an entire new rudder for my M17 using white oak and SS cheek plates. I later added a quick release cleat so once it grounded, it would swing. I have pictures somewhere if you would like them. Bones ____________________________________________________________ OVERSTOCK iPads: $33.93 Get New Apple iPads for $33.93! Limit One Per Customer. Get One Now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5113370a1d84a37096cb0st03vuc

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Re: M_Boats: Kick up rudder for M17 or a 15????
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 07 Feb '13

07 Feb '13

Martha, The fixed rod/sliding rudder blade that was used on the original M-17's allows for what you are describing - the rudder is usable in the fully retracted and fully extended positions and all in between - I used to raise my rudder sailing downwind in light air when racing.. The cassette type rudder that Mr Haudsley describes will work well too - I think Jon Owens at JO Woodworks could build you one if you don't want to do it yourself - but it would be a fun project as I would imagine you have a working rudder now . The benefit over a 'kick-up' type is that the rudder blade stays in the same vertical plane minimizing a heavy helm that you will experience with a retracted 'kick-up' type. The cassette type has the added benefit over the original M-17 type in that it will 'break away' if accidentally grounded. Both vertical types will stay clear of the outboard prop when retracted or fully lowered. Good luck in your solution ! GO _www.wrinkleboat.webs.com_ (http://www.wrinkleboat.webs.com) for 2013 WICR event info

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Chewed up rudder
by Lou 05 Feb '13

05 Feb '13

I just wanted to post this so that others might avoid such an incident. I ran my M-15 aground on a sandy bottom, which would have been no problem, however as the rudder kicked up I turned it unknowingly into the prop of my engine. I took about an inch off the trailing edge of my rudder that I will now have to fix. I don't know if this has happened to anyone else or if it has been posted before but I wanted to make you aware that this can happen.

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video - 46 seconds of yesterday
by Nebwest2＠aol.com 05 Feb '13

05 Feb '13

_http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Timb5emKPbQ_ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Timb5emKPbQ)

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