February 2010 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Little Breeze M15
by Michael Mann 18 Nov '15

18 Nov '15

Hi, My name is Michael Mann and in 1982, I sailed the Montgomery 15, Little Breeze from CA to Hawaii. I see on the web site that she has been rescued by new owners in Hawaii and I would love to correspond with them. I am currently sailing on a container ship headed for Honolulu and would welcome the chance to make contact. Thanks for any info. Michael Mann

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Montgomery Sailboats are in high demand
by Bob Eeg 15 Jul '13

15 Jul '13

And are built with top-notch quality. There is nothing in the market place faster, better built and as good looking as a Montgomery Sailboat. I don't run a factory; I run a very small boatshop. I built to order on a boat by boat basis. I do a lot of custom work when asked. Bronze ports, Stainless ports, extra ballast, Custom electrical systems, Idasailor rudders, anchoring packages..etc. This work is labor intensive. Quality takes time. I have 3 employees. These people are highly experienced in Laminating, construction, assembly and finish. Woodworking and other skills result in a absolutely beautiful sailing vessel. I use the best sails the best rigging, the best custom stainless fasteners..and yes....(laughing) the best cushions. This last 15 months have been EXTREMELY busy; hiring new help was impossible because all the good people are gone. We had a tremendous BACKLOG and we caught a break only when Pacific Seacraft employees (let go) began filtering into our shop looking for work. We did add some additional crew in the Laminating Shop and because of that we are caught up. Pacific Seacrafts Bankruptcy was good for us. Bad for the dozens of good people who are out of work. The FIRST question of anyone buying a new boat should be 'How is the construction quality'? First and foremost that is the most important issue. I can say that everyone has experienced and will continue to experience a BACKLOG of orders; especially if the boat is as popular as a Montgomery Sailboat. When we had an 8 month backlog and I actually turned down 2 M_17 orders so we could catch our breath. It is impossible to work any harder or any faster. Now that were caught up we can get back to our normal 50-70 days (depending on model and options). Also custom work really adds to the production time. One beautiful M_17 we did we cut the V berth out of and installed an oval bulkhead, custom shelves and inline potti area; with 4 bronze ports she is an amazing boat, but custom work takes time. Expect delays if you go radical on the interior. (I think BONES has a photo of that one...) We are really one of the only builders that entertain changes and options to satisfy the customer. This new Passagemaker M_17 were building (and installing a windvane on tomorrow) is going to be amazing. Other actual boat factories that produce boats for DEALERS (that Tod mentioned) like Precision and Compac are built on Factory Production lines for a large Dealership Network. Dealers who have these boats in stock can supply them right away. But ask for major changes on a future production boat and the wait will be many months. International Marine builds boats faster with more employees but those boats are piss poor sailers (upwind) and many arrive with a list of problems that are pathetic. That's not me. So try not to focus on the TIME factor. We can only go so fast. Hiring additional help is not an option because by the time you train someone the season gets slow and you have to lay them off. I can't do that. I have people that have been with me for 20 years; I keep us small and efficient on purpose. So be surprised if we hit the delivery time; which we do quite often. Be a little disappointed when we miss it; but get over it when you see your boat. Dozens of you know me; you've arrived to see me rig your boat, pack you up and shake your hand. (Heck...Gary Hyde even brought me a bottle of wine..!..Thanks Gary.!) One man bought a new M_15 from us and a new M_17 a year later.! The C word...Cushions. I inspect everyboat before it leaves for home. Scott's boat was leaving for the Bay Area early Friday morning; I was at the boatshop at 10:30 PM Thursday night, sleeping at the picnic table just inside the door, waiting for the cushion guy to arrive with the (late) promised cushions. He drove up, woke me up and I watched as he stacked them on the deck. We left. My man arrived at 3AM and hooked up the boat and slid the cushions inside the boat. I should have loaded them myself then I would have noticed they looked good but didn't have the required 'Squeeze' factor. Let's move on, shall we....? Fair winds Bob Eeg (949) 489-8227 Boat Builder

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Re: M_Boats: racing my M23
by Larry E Yake 02 Apr '11

02 Apr '11

>So when is the next San Juan trip? Annual? Bi-annual? >Jeff Probably semi-annual. Larry

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M15 for sale in Nor Cal on Craigslist
by George Morrison 26 Apr '10

26 Apr '10

I already own a M15, so I can't use another. But this sure sounds like a good deal/quick sale! Plus it's very rare to see any M-Boats for sale! http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/boa/1042037932.html George "M" M15 319 San Jose, CA

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M16, Any Info on Jerry's M16
by David Schuster 16 Mar '10

16 Mar '10

Any information on Jerry's M16? Was Jerry at the Havasu event? Thanks, David 2008 Montgomery 17

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Re: M_Boats: re-coring cockpit floor
by bownez＠juno.com 03 Mar '10

03 Mar '10

Hello Robbin, My, you have good taste in boats, Montgomery and Cape Dory.... As we all know,any balsa cored boat can develop soft areas due to water intrusion Balsa is a wonderful building block, until it gets wet. My older M17 #92 circa 1976 had a small soft area on its starboard foredeck by the bow pupit when I bought her in 1997. I tried injecting epoxy. Over the years is spread to a much larger area. The only way to repair it properly is to remove the saturated balsa and replace it with dry material. This job I finally tackled. I cut out the lower layer of fiberglass in the entire foredeck from inside the V-berth, working on my back. The balsa core was like a soggy sponge. I built a large "patch" section to fit the area using the fiberglass lower cut-out as a template. The patch was a sandwich of epoxy and coremat. The tricky part was going against gravity to epoxy the new piece in place, trying to avoid any voids to the hull. I finished by painting the area and adding a hardwood brace along the top of the ceiling running from aft bow pulpit mounting bolts. I also installed port and starboard cleats on hardwood risers to replace the stock center cleat. So far, so good. No leaks and a firm deck. This was one nasty job. I love my M-17 so I got up the courage to undertake it. (although a romp in the park compared to Sean's M-23 refit). Larry Yake went through the same ordeal with his M-17 foredeck. This job would have been far easier if it was undertaken from the top. I chose the bottom approach because I didn't want to repaint the entire top deck. It would have been nice to be able to turn the boat upside down! Getting back to the Dory cockpit floor. Here you could cut out the top layer, remove the soft balsa, and have gravity work WITH you. Kerf cut balsa is available, and you could make a plug and epoxy the whole patch together. If careful, you could even re-glass the old fiberglass floor section on top of it. Then paint it to match the top deck. What size Cape Dory is she? Alberg designs are classic. If you decide to take on such an endeavor, don't forget to wear your respirator! Good luck! Bones ____________________________________________________________ Senior Assisted Living Put your loved ones in good hands with quality senior assisted living. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=45qRqkaFSYVKV1zB5n6fKwAAJ1ApM…

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Re: M_Boats: mainsheet track
by Larry E Yake 01 Mar '10

01 Mar '10

Tom, When I relocated the mainsheet track, I put it about 18" back from the companionway. That location has worked out real well. If you do move your mainsheet track very far, you'll need to also move the boom bail, but that's easy enough to do. If your worried about drilling extra holes in your boom, just take a look at Gary O's boom. :-) I would also recommend doing the epoxy plug thing when you put new holes in the cockpit sole. That will keep moisture from getting into the wood core, and also prevent the compression problem. Larry Y On Wed, 24 Feb 2010 16:37:42 -0800 Tom Jenkins <tjenk(a)gte.net> writes: > Hi Randy, > Thanks for the tips and cautions. I did not know the track was > through-bolted, since I have never stuck my head up under the > cockpit. I'm surprised the glass separated from the plywood by > squeezing too tightly on the bolts; you must have cranked them down > > hard enough to compress the wood. > I will have to get the boat on the water to experiment with the > track > location, but the water is still quite hard in our neck of the > woods. It would be nice to be able to sneak between the sheet and > > the tiller to tack without raising the latter (I now have less than > > an inch clearance), so perhaps I will get two upgrades in one. > Tom Jenkins > M17 #626 > > > > On Feb 24, 2010, at 4:09 PM, R.K.Graves wrote: > > > Hi Tom, > > > > I can help with some information having done the same on our 1988 > > model. The cockpit floor is comprised of a > > fiberglass-plywood-fiberglass sandwich. The top layer of > fiberglass is > > as you can see in the cockpit floor with non-skid, and roughly > 3/16 > > thick. If you were to crawl under your cockpit and look up at the > > bottom of the floor you would also see fiberglass but this is mat > and > > resin. Between the two is plywood. My guess is the total thickness > of > > the sandwich is just less than 1". > > > > Tightening the new track caused the top layer of non-skid > fiberglass > > to separate from the plywood core on our boat (I heard of the > same > > thing on one other boat). Jerry recommended a vacuum technique to > > re-bond the two. Jerry made it sound easy but I concluded it was a > bit > > over my head. The separated area formed a bubble in the forward > floor > > of the cockpit. I drilled a small hole through the top layer and > by > > tilting the boat a bit was able to manage a sufficient quantity > of > > penetrating epoxy into the detached area. I then placed several > cinder > > blocks on top the floor while it cured. Turned out OK! Lesson > learned > > is to not over tighten the screws holding the track. They are > machine > > thread and fender washer and locknutÂd on the bottom side. Snub > with > > some bedding compound and you are good-to-go! > > > > Yes, the holes between the two tracks don't line up. Larry took > the > > opportunity when mounting his new track to move the track forward > > about 12 inches or so. This still allowed for a person to sit > forward > > of the track but gave the helmsman more room to move between the > > mainsheet and tiller. Because of the change in mechanical > advantage by > > moving the mainsheet forward he also upgraded to a 4-to-1 > purchase. > > The windward sheeting setup is a nice package and has worked > great. > > > > Randy Graves > > M17 #410 > > > > > > On Wed, Feb 24, 2010 at 2:55 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk(a)gte.net> > wrote: > >> I am plotting installation of a Harken windward sheeting car > setup > >> on my > >> 2004 M17, in place of the factory T track and slide. Anybody > know > >> what the > >> present track is screwed into, so I will know what to expect when > > >> I install > >> the 7/8" CB track? Additionally, the new track is bolted on > 3-15/16" > >> centers (obviously 10 centimeters), but I measured my old track > at 4" > >> centers. Is the old track metric as well, and my measurement > >> faulty? (My > >> boat is many miles away at the moment, so I can't remeasure). > >> Thanks in advance for any insights and assistance. > >> > >> Tom Jenkins > >> Scintilla > >> _______________________________________________ > >> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >> > >> Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > >

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laddder and stern pulpit into
by flickasf＠aol.com 01 Mar '10

01 Mar '10

1. The stern pulpit was custom made by Svendsen's Metal Shop in Alameda,CA. 2. I have had no flexing from my life line stanchions on either of my M 15s. The first M 15, Kokopelli was sailed in heavy weather for several years on San Francisco Bay. They do have stainless backing plates which are a mirror image to the stanchion bases. 3. I recommend the four step telescoping ladder from Windline. It makes it easier to get out of the water. You can order directly from the factory. It's the same one used on the Potter 19. The factory had the best price. 4. To install the pulpit and ladder I put in three four inch Becksen inspection ports, 2 aft and one on the starboard side beneath the forward leg of the pulpit. The stern pulpit was fairly easy and should be done first so you have more room to work. 5. I premade and drilled a backing plate for the ladder and drilled the holes in the stern as well. After treating the stern with penetrating epoxy, I fished a string through one of the holes in the stern and ran it through the backing plate in the cabin. I ran it through a washer and tied it. Then I simply pulled it to the stern. Once the first bolt was in place, the rest was fairly easy. Be sure to have extra nuts and washers. If anyone needs photos of the projects, send me your email and I will send them to you within a couple of weeks. Bert M 15, Zephyr

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Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 17 Maintenance and Modifications Photo Albums
by Larry E Yake 28 Feb '10

28 Feb '10

Joe, Just noticed your post. Most of the time I don't have anything there to strengthen the top of the doors, but when I want it to be real solid I have a brace that fits in a couple saddles just inside the doors. It spans across the top of the companionway right behind the top of the doors. Larry On Thu, 25 Feb 2010 16:30:30 -0500 "Joe Murphy" <seagray(a)embarqmail.com> writes: > Larry, > On your cabin doors, what did you use as a stop at the top of the > doors to keep the top part of the doors from getting pushed in? > BTW, nice, nice job!! > Joe > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Larry E Yake > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 3:11 PM > Subject: M_Boats: Montgomery 17 Maintenance and Modifications > Photo Albums > > > http://www.msogphotosite.com/M17MM.html > > Tom, > You can find the cabin door project here, along with several > other > maintenance and upgrade projects. > Larry > > _______________________________________________ > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > >

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Re: M_Boats: permanent fix for your center board pin
by Neil Dorf 28 Feb '10

28 Feb '10

Hey Bob, Thanks for the advice. I'm a novice at this stuff. Since my boat has never been off the trailer except when floating, I guess I'll have to dive under with a swim mask to see where that knot is and how it is tied. OR, are you talking about a stopper knot topside? My centerboard pendant comes straight up through a hole in the teak board in the cockpit just below the companionway and then I tie it off to a cleat to the right of the mainsheet with a clove hitch. No stopper knot. Should I tie one? I suspect that since I let the pendant all the way down, maybe the knocking I hear is the CB hitting the fwd keel housing... Thanks! -----Original Message----- From: Bob From California <ocean37(a)hotmail.com> Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 5:42 PM To: Monty Listserver <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: permanent fix for your center board pin Hi Neil.... You're just fine. A previous owner obviously just decided to use a bolt and nut. No worries. Normal slapping noise is fine. You do want to make sure the board hangs in the down position on the KNOT in the rope. No hitting noise against the forward face of the trunk when the board is lowered. If it is hitting in the down position, lower the knot up an inch or so. Fair winds Bob www.montgomeryboats.com Thanks for the Jeopardy Game at Havasu..that was fun.! > From: ndorf(a)surfbest.net [The entire original message is not included]

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