November 2009 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: reefing lines
by Larry E Yake 17 Nov '09

17 Nov '09

>>By the way, does anyone know the exact width of a 17 at the widest point (looks to be near the winches)? It's a tad tough to measure, and I need to set the gap between my new post roller guides. Is it really exactly 7'6"? Tom, I have 7'4" listed in my boat info. Don't remember where I got that number from, though. Larry

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Re: M_Boats: Broken cleat, M-15
by NummiJ＠aol.com 17 Nov '09

17 Nov '09

I sell Simichrome and will ship it any ware. I have it listed for $18.75. I would include shipping for that price also. M17 Lento Kala Dale Nummi 1910 Cumming Ave Superior, WI 54880 218-428-9176

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Re: M_Boats: advice sought
by ndorf＠surfbest.net 17 Nov '09

17 Nov '09

Well I deviated from my own plan. Went to Ace, Home Despot and finally West Marine and could not find the Boat Life Life Caulk or any "polysulfide" based product. Finally settled on the 3M 4000UV product, because the 3M application matrix card (showing the 5200, 4200, the "quick cure" versions, and the 4000UV) indicated that the 4000UV is especially well suited to seating metal deck hardware. 3M rates the adhesive "permanency" of these products on a simple scale of high, medium, and low. 5200 and 4200 which are polyurethane are rated high. The 4000UV is rated medium, and it is what 3M calls a "polyether" whatever that is. Definitely not silicone. I decided to give it a go. It is also paintable, but I didn't much care. I wanted clear but it only comes in white. that should be fine for my needs as my deck is an off-white and I will trim around the step with care. In my home port area Sacramento where there are plenty of sunny spring, summer and fall days (and hot summers), I figured the resistance to UV rays can't be a bad thing either. We shall see over time how it works out. Thanks again to all who chimed in. Neil

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Re: M_Boats: Broken cleat, M-15
by ndorf＠surfbest.net 16 Nov '09

16 Nov '09

I used to use Simichrome to shine up my aluminum bicycle components to a chrome-like finish. Don't have any around the house presently to try on my cleats. Stuff's not cheap for how much you get in a small tube but as I remember there was no equal. http://www.competitionchemicals.com/simichrome/ Anybody out there try Simichrome polish on their boat cleats yet? I'd be curious to know how it works. You'll probably have to go to a well stocked bicycle shop to find it or order from an online dealer, because I have never seen it in a hardware store and don't remember seeing it in West Marine (at least not in the poorly stocked one in my neck of the woods). Neil M15 Roseville, CA

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Broken cleat, M-15
by Hughston, Larry 16 Nov '09

16 Nov '09

Jerry, Where can I find an exact match 6 inch aluminum rear cleat for my M-15. Would Bob Eeg have them as per 1981 M-15s ? ---Larry Hughston in Sacramento / hull # 189

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reefing lines
by Tom Jenkins 16 Nov '09

16 Nov '09

I am going to mount some small blocks on my 17 boom to pull down reefs in a hurry. On my larger boat, I ran a line from the becket on the block, under the boom, through the reef cringle, down to the sheave on the block, and forward to a cleat. I am wondering if this will work on my tiny boom as well, or if I should anchor the line on an eyestrap opposite the block. Anyone? Thanks, Tom Jenkins

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Re: M_Boats: advice sought
by ndorf＠surfbest.net 16 Nov '09

16 Nov '09

Thanks to all who who responded. Sounds like the jury is split. Jerry recommends a polyurethane adhesive sealant and not silicone. One vote was for polysulfide sealant (Boat-Life Life-Calk) One vote for a polyurethane-silicone blend (Boat-Life Life-Seal). I'm no chemist, but from what I can tell by researching these compounds, the first two would the best choices with the primary difference being that polyurethane is very permanent, while the polysulfide, while having similar seal and adhesive properties, is less so and with some work could be removed at a later date if further maintenance is required. I think I will go with the polysulfide in case for some unforeseen reason I have to pull the step off again (gosh I sure hope not). The Life-Seal is apparently the best for plastics such as port-lights, since polysulfide will etch and gradually destroy plastics while the polyurethane+silicone blend will not. If I were building a brand new boat, I would probably use polyurethane adhesive sealer for the best longevity. Thanks again. Neil

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Jerry needs to look at 15 or 17
by Michael Ray Wisely 15 Nov '09

15 Nov '09

Hi Jerry, I have an M17 in Richmond #383, if no one comes thru in Sacramento soon enough for you. Best, Michael Ray M 17

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Jerry-trailer location/sealer for metal to fiberglass
by flickasf＠aol.com 15 Nov '09

15 Nov '09

1. Jerry, if you can't find a M 15 in the Sacramento area, mine sits on a trailer in the Alameda Marina. I believe it's in dry slip 170. It's a 1986. 2. My local marine stainless fabrication shop suggests using Life Seal. Bert Zephyr, #365

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Advice sought
by ndorf＠surfbest.net 15 Nov '09

15 Nov '09

One of the three bolts that secure the mast step through my M15's deck top is rusted at the lock nut, so I decided to replace it. I only acquired the boat this summer, and it was built in 1985, so I suppose that sometime in its life it was exposed to rain or constant wet sailing conditions where water seeped down through the holes. Actually, the mast step looked fairly well sealed with clear silicone, or whatever was used. Nevertheless, I decided to remove it and all three bolts completely, clean up everything with a little paint thinner and re seat the mast step with new sealant and three new stainless steel bolts. I poked a small nail through the holes sideways and as far as I can tell from gently poking around and also knocking on the deck around the mast step, I don't appear to have any dry rot issues--at least nothing warranting radical surgery. My question is, what do recommend as the best sealant for the job when I reseat the mast step. I am not sure if I need a "sealant-adhesive" or just a "sealant" Is 3M Marine Sealant 101 as good as anything else? Also, to replace the three bolts, washers, and nuts, will stainless steel hardware from Ace suffice, or do I need to order special "marine" stainless for this purpose. All opinions welcome. Thanks, Neil Dorf 1985 M15 Roseville CA

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