July 2003 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: Home made storm jib
by s.mcclellan＠comcast.net 14 Jul '03

14 Jul '03

To Steve Tyree ("Amy Ann"): I appreciated hearing about your home-made storm jib. I have considered making one myself. If you can spare a few minutes, could you discuss in a bit more depth the process you went through in building it? (dimensions, materials, techniques, pattern used if any, problems encountered and overcome?) I expect there may be others on this list who would be interested. -- Steve McClellan~~M15~#152~~Chicago > I have a tiny, homemade jib for my P-15 that I use in high winds. It's under > 11 SF! (working jib 23 sf, lapper 30 sf) As small as it is, when the wind > is 20+ knots my little jib is just the ticket, with big improvements in > pointing ability and speed. I think this is because the wind's pressure per > square > foot goes up with the square of the speed, thus if your current jib works well > in 10 knots, a jib one fourth its size would work well in 20 knots. > Additionally, the center of effort is lowered in height (usually). Anyhow, it > works for > me! > > Steve Tyree > P-15 #2098 "Amy Ann" > Dik, > Start with a single main reef and standard working jib. Reef the main first > and keep the working jib up. If the wind pipes up go to a double main reef. > If that is still too much canvas go to the smaller and heavier weight storm > jib. There is a point where the main comes down and you run or heave to. > > Bill > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: Sealanr Recomendations
by s.mcclellan＠comcast.net 14 Jul '03

14 Jul '03

I refurbished my centerboard 2 years ago, and have had no problems with the method I used. I ordered a stainless steel pin about a full inch shorter than the width of the stub keel at the pivot point, in order to leave about a half inch at each end. I ground out the last half inch of the hole on each side to create a rough cone shape, then filled it with thickened epoxy and smoothed it over (after installing the board, of course!) No problems since, whatsoever. It's kind of hard for me to imagine that this could ever get knocked out be the forces normally applied to it. Of course, if you are talking about *sealing* the holes, epoxying over the outside is part of it, but you still have the holes inside the slot. What I did is, before installing the pin, I drilled out the entire hole about 1/4 inch larger diameter than the pin, coated the inside of the hole with thickened epoxy, and re-drilled to the exact diameter of the pin. Then I also put a thin film of fresh epoxy in the hole as I was installing the pin. One other tip: I put large, thin nylon washers in on each side of the board -- I don't know if they help in any way, but my thought was to 1) reduce friction at that point when lowering/raising the board, and 2) center the board and reduce side motion/wobble of the board. So far so good, 2 years and maybe 30 sails later. If you all are really good, I'll tell you about the valve/flap I fabricated and installed in the cockpit drain while I had the board out. It keeps my cockpit floor almost completely dry even in the nasty chop of Lake Michigan!

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Sealanr Recomendations
by Jon Martin 14 Jul '03

14 Jul '03

I would appreciate any rexomendations for sealing the centerboard pivot pin on an M15 -thanks, in advance, Jon Martin _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail

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Re: M_Boats: Sequencing on launch
by chbenneck＠juno.com 13 Jul '03

13 Jul '03

Hi Sandra, I have an M15 and my routine on launching is: Rudder mounted on transom and in the UP position. This is the keep the rudder from hitting things during launching. Once the M15 is floating, then I lower the rudder, fire up my O/B and take off.............. Steering with an O/B is possible as long as the engine is running. Shut off the O/B and you have no way of steering. Been there done that! Not to be recommended, if you are trying to maneuver in tight quarters. You totally loose control of the boat. Also, make sure that your C/B is in the UP position prior to launching, otherwise it will hang up on your trailer aft cross member and you won't get the boat off the trailer. Connie M15 #400

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Freebird?
by Sandyal55＠aol.com 12 Jul '03

12 Jul '03

Does anybody know where Freebird is today? Several yrs ago, I read in Cruising World about Freebird. It was in their "Passage Notes" column. Sandy

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Re: M_Boats: Fern Ridge get Together?
by chbenneck＠juno.com 12 Jul '03

12 Jul '03

Bent Mast: That all depends on how bad the bend is.............. If it is a very slight bend, then I think you have a reasonably good chance of straightening it out If on the other hand, the mast is bent enough so that it makes a crease in the mast, then it's time for a new mast. I have had my original mast that had a small bend due to snow load during winter (I used it as a ridge pole for the winter boat cover, and the span between the mast support on the cabin top and the aft support at the transom was too large. The weight of the wet snow on the winter covered caused a slight bend that I could remove.) Last year, however, a friend driving my car as we hauled the boat out of the local lake wanted to be helpful, and take me around the corner to a better parking area where I could lower the mast. Unfortunately, a big ancient oak limb crossing the road had an argument with my mast, and the oak tree limb won. In this case my mast was bent at a 90 degree angle, and at the bend, had a crease like you can put in a beer can. There was no way to save it this time, so I now have a new mast, from Dwyer Masts in North Branford, CT, which I have just finished rigging. So, a slight gentle bend can be corrected, but anything with a crease is now excellent raw material for a new letter box post. Connie M15 #400 LEPPO Glastonbury, CT

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Falmouth Cutter link
by htmills＠bright.net 12 Jul '03

12 Jul '03

slightly off topic, I know, but since it IS a Lyle Hess design.... http://homepage.mac.com/rwsailor/Menu4.html Tod

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Re: M_Boats: Bent Mast
by Steve R. 11 Jul '03

11 Jul '03

Just out of curiosity, is it possible to fabricate a single mast from two bent masts? Assuming you can find a second mast that has not gone postal. Inquiring minds want to know (but I hope I never have to do it), steve Steve R. M-15 #119 Lexington, KY ******************************************* Sorry to go off topic, but I have a 15 ft Montgomery that got a bent mast while transporting...do you have any suggestions as to repair?

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RE: M_Boats: Good Old Boat
by Morris, Giles 10 Jul '03

10 Jul '03

> I have a M15 that got a bent mast I think I remember this question coming up a year or so ago. If you look in the list archives there was a source for the mast section. Moving the hardware to the new section shouldn't be a big problem. Giles Morris

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Fern Ridge get Together?
by Shawn Boles 10 Jul '03

10 Jul '03

Anybody interested in a get together at Fern Ridge this summer? The lake may be drained next year for dam repairs and it seems a shame not to take advantage of it this year. I am traveling more than I had anticipated but could do something the weekends of 7/26, 8/2, 8/9, 8/23, 8/30. I can count 3 M17s and at least 2 M15s on just the D & E docks…. cheers- Shawn Boles Grey Mist (M17 #276 1978)

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